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steve126a
03-15-12, 21:03
I received a new 16" midlength lightweight upper from PSA two weeks ago and I wanted to install a Troy TRX extreme rail. A project that should take about an hour is now on it's second week.

The first problem I encountered was trying to remove the A2 front sight post. Tapping the tapered pins out was nearly impossible (yes I went in the right direction). I bent two punches before I finally let the upper sit in a cold garage overnight. The next morning I took the largest diameter punch I had and smashed it with a hammer. They finally started to budge and once they started moving, they came out fairly easy, but getting them to budge was ridiculous.

Next, I secured the upper in a DPMS vice block assembly and into my vice and attached my barrel nut wrench. Turning the wrench in the proper direction, the nut simply will not move. I thought it might be my vice not holding it well enough, so I took the upper to my friends house and used his heavy duty vice. Neither of us could break the nut loose and my friend eventually used so much force that he tore his vice from his work bench (it was bolted in). I'm turning the barrel nut counter-clockwise if you are looking down the barrel from the muzzle end.

My question to the people at PSA: What the hell do you torque these things to?!?!

I tried heating the nut for a while with a heat gun (I don't have a torch) and this time I used a breaker bar. Nothing. I'm at my wits end with this fucking thing. It simply should not be this difficult to remove.

Iraqgunz
03-16-12, 15:49
Get some Kroil or other lube and soak the barrel nut. If that doesn't work then I would put it in the freezer.

PalmettoStateArmory
03-16-12, 18:04
We torque them to spec. I'm not sure why you are having a problem, but if you would like to send it back with your rail system we would be happy to install it for you.

steve126a
03-16-12, 18:18
Thanks for the reply. I wish I had seen this sooner.

I ended up taking my upper, vice block, barrel wrench and torque wrench to the shop after work today to use their industrial vice.

I got it all secured and began to try to get the barrel nut off again. Again it would not budge. I gave it one final pull, and finally heard something give way. Unfortunately it was not the barrel nut.

The upper receiver actually cracked right below the dust cover from how tight the barrel nut was.

I called and left a voicemail on your answering machine. Please call me back to discuss a return shipment. Thanks!

steve126a
03-19-12, 14:56
Tried calling again this morning, got no answer and voicemail box is full. Please see the PM I sent you with my phone number.

eternal24k
03-19-12, 21:33
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/v/vspfiles/photos/Panther%20Claw%20AR15-2.jpg

No offense, OP. But that is not a proper block for doing barrel nuts, it puts the force on the takedown pins and damage like you had is not uncommon. I would not put it on Palmetto since it is clear that you lacked proper tools

steve126a
03-19-12, 22:04
What would be the intended use of that block then, and what would you suggest otherwise? That block was recommended to me by a gunsmith, among others for exactly that type of procedure.

I'm not putting it entirely on PSA, but when you watch others break barrel nuts by holding an upper between their legs while using channel locks, and then watching my upper literally rip a bolted down vice from a workbench, using the proper wrenches and fittings, something is obviously wrong.

I've since spoken with PSA, and we've come to an agreement on a repair and they have been very helpful with this matter.

eternal24k
03-19-12, 22:08
I own the DPMS block, it is best used for muzzle devices and attaching rails or other minor work, NOT for applying proper torque to a barrel nut or removing them. You are among countless others who have made the mistake.

A "clamshell" style would be much better suited

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=22385/Product/AR-15-M16-UPPER-RECEIVER-ACTION-BLOCK