Home Gunsmithing: Glock Trigger Job (Part 4)

[C4IGrant]

This is the 4th and final section of the Glock Trigger Job. In this section, we will be focusing on the firing pin safety (FPS).

The FPS is a key component of the Glock for many reasons (besides its obvious job). This component has a direct impact on the pull weight of the trigger AND can be the cause of light primer strikes (if it gets full of debris and cannot fully collapse).

Much like the Striker, this part moves up and down inside the slide. There is some room for side to side movement which in turn allows for dings, dents and scratches to be formed around the middle top edge and and bottom of the top section. Note that not ALL FPS's are the same. Some might not have any issues so closely examine yours before doing anything to it!

We are also going to cover how to round the top of the FPS so that the trigger bar can more easily roll over it.

First up, ding/dent removal. Remove your FPS from your slide. Then remove the spring inside of it. Make note that the spring was "stuck" inside. When you go to re-install the spring, make sure that it is again firmly installed inside the FPS and doesn't fall out.


NOTICE: DO NOT SHORTEN THE FPS (meaning don't remove any material from the top)!!!


Note the dings on the side edges
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Repair/Glock/Jagged_SB.jpg


These dings can be real difficult to get to. On top of that, they are round so you cannot go at them with a flat stone. This is where you can use a dremel, felt wheel and some lapping or polishing compound. You can also use 300-400gr sand paper or use a Scotch pad on a sander (which is how we do it).

http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Repair/Glock/GEN217_SB_Buffing.jpg

http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Repair/Glock/GEN217_SB_Scotch1.jpg


With the above out of the way, we are going to move onto rounding the top of the FPS. This is one of the more difficult parts. So go slow and pay close attention that you are NOT creating any flats on the side here!

There are several ways to do this. One of the ways is to use a drill and a hard stone (Arkansas, etc) to dome the FPS. Place the FPS in the jaws of the drill. Tighten down so that it is held firmly in place. Then, with a rolling up motion, spin the FPS against the stone.

http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Repair/Glock/GEN217_SB_Drill.jpg


Another way to do this is with a Scotch pad on a sander (our preferred method).

http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Repair/Glock/GEN217_SB_Scotch.jpg


Once you have domed your FPS, take a buffing wheel and give it a nice shiny finish.

Finished FPS
http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Repair/Glock/Rounded_SB.jpg

http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Repair/Glock/SB_Finished.jpg

Make sure to remove all buffing compounds from the FSP (both inside and out) before installing it back into your gun!



This concludes our four part section on cleaning up your Glock trigger. We hope that you got something out of it and look ward to seeing how well you do!


http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Repair/Glock/GEN217_Completed.jpg



C4

[SeriousStudent]

Grant, thanks again for the write-up.

A question for you, if you do not mind. Have you thought about putting together a set of these parts that are factory stock and unmodified? That way, a person could just order a set from you, smooth them, and test them one at a time in their carry gun? If they get carried away with a stone, no harm done. Just switch back to the original.

Given the quality and success of your LPK's, do you think it would be worth the time and effort? It seems like when I am ordering Glock parts, I'm usually having to get them from more than one supplier. The combinded shipping is almost always more that the cost of the parts themselves.

Just a thought. I doubt it would be a big profit maker, more like a service for existing customers.

Then I can just tack on a case of S&B ammo to my order, it makes it easier to justify. ;)

[C4IGrant]

Grant, thanks again for the write-up.

A question for you, if you do not mind. Have you thought about putting together a set of these parts that are factory stock and unmodified? That way, a person could just order a set from you, smooth them, and test them one at a time in their carry gun? If they get carried away with a stone, no harm done. Just switch back to the original.

Given the quality and success of your LPK's, do you think it would be worth the time and effort? It seems like when I am ordering Glock parts, I'm usually having to get them from more than one supplier. The combinded shipping is almost always more that the cost of the parts themselves.

Just a thought. I doubt it would be a big profit maker, more like a service for existing customers.

Then I can just tack on a case of S&B ammo to my order, it makes it easier to justify. ;)

I honestly do not have the time and people generally wouldn't pay for all the effort I would put into them. This is why I chose to help folks so that they can do it themselves. :D



C4

[SeriousStudent]

I honestly do not have the time and people generally wouldn't pay for all the effort I would put into them. This is why I chose to help folks so that they can do it themselves. :D



C4

Yes, and I looked up the cost of the parts today. Holy poop, the striker sells for 45 bucks! :eek:

I did order a set of stones tonight, and already have some honing oil from my knife sharpening supplies that should work well.

You think blasting the parts with brake cleaner and canned air will be good enough to not cross-contaminate the stones?

Thanks again, and have a good weekend!

[C4IGrant]

Yes, and I looked up the cost of the parts today. Holy poop, the striker sells for 45 bucks! :eek:

I did order a set of stones tonight, and already have some honing oil from my knife sharpening supplies that should work well.

You think blasting the parts with brake cleaner and canned air will be good enough to not cross-contaminate the stones?

Thanks again, and have a good weekend!

Ya, I think that is a fine way for cleaning the stones.

I also wipe them off on a clean rag about every 20-30 strokes.


C4

[SeriousStudent]

Sounds good, thanks for the info.

[Dakota Glock Guy]

This is where you can use a dremel, felt wheel and some lapping or polishing compound. You can also use 300-400gr sand paper or use a Scotch pad on a sander (which is how we do it).

http://www.gandrtactical.com/images/archive/Repair/Glock/GEN217_SB_Scotch.jpg

C4

Grant,

Is there some kind of compound you load the Scotch pad with? It looks like there is something in the pad in the picture.

Thanks!

[C4IGrant]

Grant,

Is there some kind of compound you load the Scotch pad with? It looks like there is something in the pad in the picture.

Thanks!

None.


C4

[Dakota Glock Guy]

Thanks. It must be just well worn from all the use it gets in your shop! :D

[Dakota Glock Guy]

Hey Grant,

I was looking for a Scotch pad for the sander, and it looks like there are several different grades (coarse to super fine).

I was wondering which grade to get for this step?

Thanks again!

[C4IGrant]

Hey Grant,

I was looking for a Scotch pad for the sander, and it looks like there are several different grades (coarse to super fine).

I was wondering which grade to get for this step?

Thanks again!

Fine to super fine.



C4