PDA

View Full Version : I was doing a little cleaning when...



halo2304
09-08-13, 20:59
I was cleaning some of my guns when I discovered this. This is a small crack in the frame of one of my P9s'.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e309/halo2304/Guns/WP_000718_zps8a55bed0.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/halo2304/media/Guns/WP_000718_zps8a55bed0.jpg.html)

The way I see it, I've got a few options:
A) I could drop some cash on another frame and swap the parts. I found one on Gunbroker but, it's not cheap.

B) I might be able to have it repaired (grind out the crack, TIG weld it and machine/grind back the original shape.)

C) I could strip it and sell the parts.

D) I could keep it as a "paper weight" and possibly for parts.

The biggest problem with "A" is it's expensive and the serial numbers would no longer match. The serial number mis-match isn't that big of a deal unless/until I sell it. Also, the P9s is rather complicated internally.
Option "B" is questionable and, like "A", would require at least a partial stripping. I'm not too sure about option "C" but it might be my best option as it's pretty much already option "D".

What do you guys think?

The Dumb Gun Collector
09-08-13, 21:17
I think it is just sheet metal anyway isn't it? I would weld it. I wouldn't even worry about it. People have been welding-up 1911 frames since time immemorial. I wouldn't waste the money on a new frame.

halo2304
09-08-13, 21:22
The area it's in, I think could be repaired but it's one of those things I'd really hate to F'up. And yes, the frame is stamped sheet metal.

sxshep
09-08-13, 21:25
I have no idea, hence why I'm asking... But could you just keep shooting it? Would there be a safety risk, or would it start to throw off the accuracy/reliability at some point?

halo2304
09-08-13, 21:47
The crack is a sign of stress on the frame from the slide and continuing to shoot it would cause the gun to shoot itself apart. Just in front of the crack is the buffer system. The P9s uses a wax-like polymer buffer which eventually needs to be replaced. When I bought this one, I saw no obvious signs the buffer needed replacing. My first P9s needed the buffer replaced because of very visible "shake" in the buffer housing. In total, I may have 200rds through it despite having it for a few years.

SteveS
09-09-13, 15:22
Have you tried to contact the manufacture?

halo2304
09-09-13, 22:06
Have you tried to contact the manufacture?

I have not yet done so. I took some more pictures tonight and might see what H&K have to say about it. Since they haven't produced the P9s since the mid-80's, I'm not going to hold my breath. I also discovered a crack on the other side of the frame as well. I did have my father take a look at it to get his thoughts on welding it. (He's an experienced welder a among many other things.) He believes it could be fixed. I think my next step might be to get a second opinion from a local gun smith (or two) and see what H&K says.

Mr blasty
09-09-13, 23:13
Weld it.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2

The Dumb Gun Collector
09-09-13, 23:24
I am willing to bet $5 HK will say it can't be fixed and not to shoot it. Weld it!

Javelin
09-09-13, 23:26
A good machinist will fix that no problem.

samuse
09-10-13, 18:36
I've been welding up cracked out stuff all my life. It never lasts as long as it did the first time.

Procuring a welding/heat treat procedure for that particular part would be what happens in a perfect world. If you're lucky H&K will tell you what it's made of and you can select a filler yourself. Since we have no clue what it is, if you want to make a half-assed educated guess, you could have it PMI'd to see the chemical composition and that'll get you closer to figuring out what you want to weld on it with.

Me myself... I'd prolly just hit it with some Inco182. Keep the heat input as low as possible with good welding technique and a couple of heat sinks, and wrap it in a blanket to cool it off real slow.

Re-heat treat after welding and before machining, would be best. But to just weld it you're going to be left with two heat affected zones that are brittle and may want to crack.

Good luck!!;)

decodeddiesel
09-10-13, 22:26
I would send it to a reputable gunsmith who has knowledge of the platform and is comfortable performing the TiG weld and milling/grinding that would be necessary to fix it.

Perhaps some research on HKPro would be in order.

Talon167
09-11-13, 07:06
Epoxy it?

Campbell
09-11-13, 07:50
I've been welding up cracked out stuff all my life. It never lasts as long as it did the first time.

Procuring a welding/heat treat procedure for that particular part would be what happens in a perfect world. If you're lucky H&K will tell you what it's made of and you can select a filler yourself. Since we have no clue what it is, if you want to make a half-assed educated guess, you could have it PMI'd to see the chemical composition and that'll get you closer to figuring out what you want to weld on it with.

Me myself... I'd prolly just hit it with some Inco182. Keep the heat input as low as possible with good welding technique and a couple of heat sinks, and wrap it in a blanket to cool it off real slow.

Re-heat treat after welding and before machining, would be best. But to just weld it you're going to be left with two heat affected zones that are brittle and may want to crack.

Good luck!!;)

This is a very solid game plan, matter of fact, I would just let him fix it.:) You know HK is not going to tell you to fix it, shoot it, or what it is made of....but they may tell you how much you suck for breaking one of their pistols.;) good luck on the fix.

halo2304
09-11-13, 20:18
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll see what H&K says...ya know, other than the fact that I suck. :p Money's a little tight right now so getting it fixed may have to wait a bit.

Also, while HKPro may have been a more appropriate place to show off my "crack", I frequent this forum more often. Besides, I may show it off there as well.