Extractor spring / insert / ring - what is the latest wisdom?

[gjj]

I have read through several of the huge posts on this topic. I purchased the extractor upgrade kit (crane o-ring, HD extractor spring, black insert).

I found it impossible install all these simultaneously in my bolt. So, I tried just using the HD spring and black insert. It was still difficult to get the bolt reassembled without tools. My bolt had problems closing on rounds sometime. I was told that it would be fine after it was broken in. I want something that works from the beginning so I finally went to just the standard spring and black insert.

What is the current wisdom on what works best for 16" carbines (some of the threads are old)?

Should I be looking at adding a d-fender instead?

You can read all the posts and still come away pretty confused on what is the best approach.

[Shihan]

If your gun has the carbine gas system use all 3. To get it installed easier use a small hose clamp and tighten it until it lines up.

[AllAmerican]

If your gun has the carbine gas system use all 3. To get it installed easier use a small hose clamp and tighten it until it lines up.


Is it possible to get too much tension on the extractor????

[gotm4]

Is it possible to get too much tension on the extractor????

Yes,
on guns that don't need extra extractor tension it can effect feeding. It can also cause the extractor to overpower the ejector and thus not allow the empty to come off of the bolt.

The bolt should really be treated as a system. When upgrading the extractor/spring/insert/0-ring also check the ejector and spring. If they feel and/or look worn....replace them.

Basically mid-length and rifle length gas system ARs don't need the O-rings/D-fenders. 5 coil springs and black inserts will work.

[AllAmerican]

Yes,
on guns that don't need extra extractor tension it can effect feeding. It can also cause the extractor to overpower the ejector and thus not allow the empty to come off of the bolt.

The bolt should really be treated as a system. When upgrading the extractor/spring/insert/0-ring also check the ejector and spring. If they feel and/or look worn....replace them.

Basically mid-length and rifle length gas system ARs don't need the O-rings/D-fenders. 5 coil springs and black inserts will work.

Thank you Sir,
That is kind of what I was thinking. I have the LMT bolt with spring and black o-ring, and I am guessing they know what they are doing and I don't need to add anything to the extractor. Maybe should keep a spring and o-ring for a quick backup.
One more thing, do you think any of this can affect the headspacing????

[gjj]

Is a 16" barrel considered mid length?

[gotm4]

Is a 16" barrel considered mid length?

16" barrels can be had with CAR or midlength gas systems. Easiest way to tell is if you have plastic handguards that are 7" it's CAR, if 9" it's midlength.

[markm]

I run 4 different carbean gas systems. Two 11.5s, a 14.5, and a 16 incher. I've never needed the O-ring or any other plumbing supplies in any of them.

If you need a damned tool to get your extractor back in the bolt, that's too much in my opinion. Even BCM admits that the stupid O-ring isn't needed, but customers want them, so they include them.

[gjj]

I am not a gun expert. But, I am an engineer. The thought of needing a tool to compress the spring and O ring just so I can assemble my bolt does not sit well with me.

Under this much tension, my suspicion would be that stress would be transfered to other areas in the extractor and extractor retaining pin that could cause these parts to fail.

[mmike87]

I personally follow the "Carbine, O-Ring, CS spring, and black Insert", "Midlength, CS spring and black insert" rule myself and so far have had no issues.

But to be honest, I didn't have any issues before upgrading the carbine bolt, either.

[gotm4]

I am not a gun expert. But, I am an engineer. The thought of needing a tool to compress the spring and O ring just so I can assemble my bolt does not sit well with me.

Under this much tension, my suspicion would be that stress would be transfered to other areas in the extractor and extractor retaining pin that could cause these parts to fail.

After the first time assembled the extractor springs will take a 'set'. You don't have to use tools you can use a counter/table top extractor face down and press on the bolt. Works a little bit mo' betta than tools.

[C4IGrant]

I have read through several of the huge posts on this topic. I purchased the extractor upgrade kit (crane o-ring, HD extractor spring, black insert).

I found it impossible install all these simultaneously in my bolt. So, I tried just using the HD spring and black insert. It was still difficult to get the bolt reassembled without tools. My bolt had problems closing on rounds sometime. I was told that it would be fine after it was broken in. I want something that works from the beginning so I finally went to just the standard spring and black insert.

What is the current wisdom on what works best for 16" carbines (some of the threads are old)?

Should I be looking at adding a d-fender instead?

You can read all the posts and still come away pretty confused on what is the best approach.

What you experienced is 100% normal. Give the spring about 20 rounds to break in and you should be good after that. I would keep the O-ring out for at least 1k if you have experiencing issues.

Where the problem lies is that not all extractors are created equal. Some of the "pockets" where the extractor spring and insert sit are not as deep as others.


C4