Colt FSB taper pins....Is there a trick to gettin 'em out???

[nickdrak]

Gents,

I am having a hell of a time getting the taper pins out of a Colt 6920. I have the FSB supported in the Brownell's "AR-15 Front Sight Bench Block", and I have used liberal amounts of Kroil on the pins. I am using a steel nail set to attempt to drift them out. I dont want to destroy anything so any assistance is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Nick

[MarshallDodge]

I would really recommend a punch. I have tried the nail thing before and a punch works so much better. The set I bought from Harbor Freight is not "professional grade" but works for the hobbyist.
Link (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93424)

[bkb0000]

how heavy is your hammer? i don't even pick up my little ballpean unless i'm installing an LPK anymore- for gas block roll pins and taper pins i use a 22oz framing hammer.. also use it for breaking the stake on castle nuts and the occasional handguard lockring or barrel nut

dont be afraid to use a bigger hammer!

[bkb0000]

I would really recommend a punch. I have tried the nail thing before and a punch works so much better. The set I bought from Harbor Freight is not "professional grade" but works for the hobbyist.
Link (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93424)

oh.. i hadn't noticed the "nail set" part- you're just gonna mangle the pins with that. get a punch set. my non-roll-pin set was $5 at wallymart

[nickdrak]

I have also tried the standard puches that I have. SO far there is no damage to the taper pins at all. The punches I have are a little long though. I will get a shorter/stout-er set of punches and try those out tonight. I am using a 16oz hammer. I will get a heavier hammer as well. As long as I have the FSB/Upper properly supported, I dont think I can damage anything....Right?

[JBnTX]

Make sure you're pushing them the correct direction.

I believe it's from left to right.

[Impact]

you need a really good wack !

[rob_s]

If you're using a big nail set like the one on the right here (http://images.toolspot.co.uk/Carpentry/3Pc%20Nail%20Punch%20Set%20Budget.jpg) you should be fine. You also need a 3 lb sledge.

For those that asked if he's hitting them the right way, the Brownells block tells you which way to whack it.

[Parabellum9x19mm]

would a Starrett Taper Pin Starter Punch help? i got one from Brownells.

its concave at the tip, so you don't need to worry about mangling the pins when you start them. the handle part of the punch is much wider than standard punches.

i also hear wintergreen oil is the best penetrating oil around (even better than Kroil)

[Robb Jensen]

Starrett taper pin starter punch and quick blow from a hammer. That or a pin-popper from Randall. Either works very well.

[nickdrak]

Thanks guys, I finally got the front taper pin loose. The rear pin came out quite easily once I used a heavier (24oz) hammer. The front pin was still a PITA!

[a1fabweld]

Beat them like a redheaded politician!

[nickdrak]

Thanks guys! Here's the finished product of what I was working on last night:

http://i44.tinypic.com/2qjdrmg.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/27yy3r6.jpg

[navyretired1]

That stuff about a nail set mangling pins is not right I've found that a nail set with the point polished and concave is the BEST pin starter. It's even better than my starter punches which is only 1/2" long from end of handle. Because of tapered shaft and hardening all the force goes to point doesn't even mess up parkerizing.

[Darkop]

That stuff about a nail set mangling pins is not right I've found that a nail set with the point polished and concave is the BEST pin starter. It's even better than my starter punches which is only 1/2" long from end of handle. Because of tapered shaft and hardening all the force goes to point doesn't even mess up parkerizing.

Yep and touching the pins with a little heat (torch) and then using a nail set with the weapon on a SOLID (I use a cement floor) Base and then WHACKING, I MEAN WHACKING them solid will usually do the trick. I bent the hell out of a bunch of quality punches before I started using a nail set.

Until that day,
Darkop

[Razorhunter]

Buy the Starrett concave tipped punch that was meant for this job guys. It keeps the punch from slipping off the tip of the pins too, and that's a necessity for some guys who are constantly scratching/marring up their uppers.
I can't tell you how many uppers I've seen that have tool marks all over them from guys who just can't hit a punch squarely...

[nickdrak]

The Stanley nail set punch looks almost identical to the Starrett version. It has the concave tip like the Starret punch, and it worked like a charm. Cost me about $5 @ Home Depot.

[navyretired1]

I forgot to mention a little heat, some companies don't trust self locking tapers and put Lock-Tite on pins. heat not only thermally unlocks bond on pins but melts any sealant used. Too hot to hold is less than 250 degrees and thats about enough heat. Not enough heat to effect barrel if you don't get carried away.

[spamsammich]

I've had good luck with a couple drops of PB Blaster on the pins and let it soak overnight before tapping them out. Just make sure you don't get that stuff on painted surfaces or plastics, some don't like PB Blaster much. Cleans up just fine with non-fluorinated brake cleaner.