View Full Version : Painted AR's - show 'em off!
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Triple Bravo
06-05-12, 05:57
Seekins Precision build in FDE:
http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww189/wjt1169/Seekins%20Precision/SeekinsFDE-gloves-03-B3-1024.jpg
Sig 716 in Cerakote RAL 8000.
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/8194/sig716tan.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/684/sig716tan.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f240/mvician/WarPig/P1160174.jpg
Hunting_Zombies
06-13-12, 20:46
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-zgn5wpJ3198/T9kzEVbRoyI/AAAAAAAAAJw/vsWS8v84kqM/s800/camo.JPG
how do i get the pics to show up on the actual thread instead of a link????? advice please.
In the reply area there are a bunch of buttons above where you type. You'll notice one on the bottom row in the middle that looks like a picture. Click it and insert the web url for your picture location. Your picture will have to be on a picture hosting service, like Photobucket for this to work.
a couple rattle can pics ( camera phone pics )
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12561
Here's my first rattle can job. I set out trying to do a simple sponge job to mimic A-TACS. But my colors are off, and it ended up looking more like ACU digital in an organic digital mannerhttp://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-db63-d230.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-db7c-f6df.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-db90-4c97.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-dba7-3810.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-dbbc-70f5.jpg
I chose to paint my M&P-15 because, well it's an M&P 15 sport....nuff said. I don't yet have the balls to paint my nicer rigs
Triple Bravo
06-19-12, 06:08
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5107/5832013744_00ecc26b0d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/triplebravo/5832013744/)
Duracoated M4 Parts (http://www.flickr.com/photos/triplebravo/5832013744/) by Triple Bravo (http://www.flickr.com/people/triplebravo/), on Flickr
My happy little family of AR's.
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd421/GTF425/DSC00426.jpg
KrampusArms
06-20-12, 22:02
To those of you who have used Krylon without clearcoat. How does the paint react with lubricants such as CLP? I've read that it turns it into a sticky mess. Any truth to this?
scoutfsu99
06-20-12, 22:23
No, not IME
To those of you who have used Krylon without clearcoat. How does the paint react with lubricants such as CLP? I've read that it turns it into a sticky mess. Any truth to this?
Not in my experience.
There's no reason to use clear coat, unless you're just painting your rifle to look cool. If the paint comes off, then simply repaint it. Too many people over think it.
Here's my first rattle can job. I set out trying to do a simple sponge job to mimic A-TACS. But my colors are off, and it ended up looking more like ACU digital in an organic digital manner
http://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-db63-d230.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-db7c-f6df.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-db90-4c97.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-dba7-3810.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/45f6c525-dbbc-70f5.jpg
There' a preview button next to the submit button for a reason.
Need to get the Aimpoint painted/put on the SBR this weekend...
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/IMG_1728.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/IMG_1739.jpg
Fresh paint on my 12.5" build
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h24/brcook03/Firearms/SBRFreshPaint.jpg
OkieOutlaw
06-26-12, 18:41
That is a sweet lookin rifle there Munch. I have been debating this ever since I bought my very first ar about six months or so ago. She is a brand spanking NEW Colt LE6920 for starters. I bought her primarily for coyote hunting and SHTF weapon if it ever comes to that. I hadn't even held an ar since my time in the Nam oh so many years ago. I have added a nice 2.5x9 scope with integrated laser and drop compensator out to 500 meters and a rail, but no other changes have been made. My question to you guys is, What would you do if this was your only ar? I am really interested in simple woodland pattern kinda like the one above. Would doing this hurt the resale value? eventhough I don't ever plan to sell her. Just can't make up my mind to pick up the can even though I have done it to two other of my hunting rifles and love the way they look.:fie:
JohnVassilakos
06-26-12, 18:54
That is a sweet lookin rifle there Munch. I have been debating this ever since I bought my very first ar about six months or so ago. She is a brand spanking NEW Colt LE6920 for starters. I bought her primarily for coyote hunting and SHTF weapon if it ever comes to that. I hadn't even held an ar since my time in the Nam oh so many years ago. I have added a nice 2.5x9 scope with integrated laser and drop compensator out to 500 meters and a rail, but no other changes have been made. My question to you guys is, What would you do if this was your only ar? I am really interested in simple woodland pattern kinda like the one above. Would doing this hurt the resale value? eventhough I don't ever plan to sell her. Just can't make up my mind to pick up the can even though I have done it to two other of my hunting rifles and love the way they look.:fie:
Don't be scared...just paint it:D
Any prospective buyer who thinks a gun is less effective because of a paint job needs to stop thinking of guns as items to be coveted and instead as tools.
The paint job makes it a more effective tool;)
My Daniel V3 painted with Krylon/ Rustoleum camo colors.12633
12634
12635
That is a sweet lookin rifle there Munch. I have been debating this ever since I bought my very first ar about six months or so ago. She is a brand spanking NEW Colt LE6920 for starters. I bought her primarily for coyote hunting and SHTF weapon if it ever comes to that. I hadn't even held an ar since my time in the Nam oh so many years ago. I have added a nice 2.5x9 scope with integrated laser and drop compensator out to 500 meters and a rail, but no other changes have been made. My question to you guys is, What would you do if this was your only ar? I am really interested in simple woodland pattern kinda like the one above. Would doing this hurt the resale value? eventhough I don't ever plan to sell her. Just can't make up my mind to pick up the can even though I have done it to two other of my hunting rifles and love the way they look.:fie:
Hm, no doubt painting makes the rifle less of a target indicator. I say just do it. Idk if it'd hurt resale as a complete rifle if you did the paint the right way, might make it had to 'part out' various bits that are painted though...heres a painted 6920 for your review :)
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/372d391f.jpg
You could also try to 'pop your cherry' with colored furniture. That'd help to break up the shape of the rifle. No quite as good as painting, but better than leaving it ninja-black.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/Colt%206920/81ea7fa7.jpg
My Daniel V3 painted with Krylon/ Rustoleum camo colors.12633
12634
12635
Lookin good! Looks like you used just the green and tan? Smart choice, I tell everyone the brown (aka Danny-Glover-purple) sucks.
Lookin good! Looks like you used just the green and tan? Smart choice, I tell everyone the brown (aka Danny-Glover-purple) sucks.
Thanks! I use darker colors for the background and then layer the top in green and tan. Lastly comes the tan "highlights". It's not perfect, but it works.
OkieOutlaw
06-28-12, 13:21
Well I finally took the plunge and painted my new rifle. I still need to add the black, but didn't realize I was out. I think it turned out pretty well at least for now. At least the coyotes won't be able to see any shiny parts. Let me know your honest opinions guys?http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2820/s3010017.jpg http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4548/s3010016.jpghttp://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3377/s3010018y.jpg
Got the $211 Aimpoint mounted/painted today :)
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/76b23da4.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/2c3e0059.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/af21b57a.jpg
Got the $211 Aimpoint mounted/painted today :)
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/76b23da4.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/2c3e0059.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/af21b57a.jpg
Nice job Matt, I hope I get to see it in person on Sunday. You matched up the camo scheme very well with the rest of the rifle.
Cheers,
Glen.
Brian Brazier
06-28-12, 22:28
Got the $211 Aimpoint mounted/painted today :)
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/76b23da4.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/2c3e0059.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/af21b57a.jpg
Looks good, is that mount an absolute co witness? I run my PRO absolute and love it.
scoutfsu99
06-29-12, 08:19
No, it has the spacer in it. Take it out and it can though.
Nice job Matt, I hope I get to see it in person on Sunday. You matched up the camo scheme very well with the rest of the rifle.
Cheers,
Glen.
Thanks Glen! In hindsight, I'd definitely do the optic/rifle together next time but I did get lucky in matching the patterns. You've got a long day ahead of you on Sunday, hope to see you then.
Looks good, is that mount an absolute co witness? I run my PRO absolute and love it.
The standard QRP mount is, with the spacer it is lower 1/3.
No, it has the spacer in it. Take it out and it can though.
Yezzir!
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/fdf7a26b.jpg
After following this thread for a while I decided to break out the krylon and give it a shot.
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv58/mjgonzo/DSCN1282.jpg
http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv58/mjgonzo/DSCN1285.jpg
Let me know what you think.
Let me know what you think.
I think it looks AWESOME! Care to share your technique?
irockstar661
06-30-12, 19:17
I know not most of y'alls cup of tea, but I just finished this for a buddy.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l167/hunt_ak/Guns/0f2ba40d.jpg?t=1332794900
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l167/hunt_ak/Guns/2b084c02.jpg?t=1332794899
How is this done?
How is this done?
I used a 3-4stencils and Duracoat
http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u440/Jason_Prisbrey/jasonsar006.jpg
Cerakoted Burnt Bronze
here is the paint job in the daylight...much lighter.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/July%201%20Range/IMG_2120.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/July%201%20Range/IMG_2127.jpg
I know not most of y'alls cup of tea, but I just finished this for a buddy.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l167/hunt_ak/Guns/0f2ba40d.jpg?t=1332794900
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l167/hunt_ak/Guns/2b084c02.jpg?t=1332794899
I recognize that trigger guard.
RRA. Nothing else like it.
I recognize that trigger guard.
RRA. Nothing else like it.
Actually, the old SLR15/Sully trigger guard and the one currently offered by Weaver Tactical also have a similar profile.
http://www.policehq.com/Products/WVR-99663
ETA: Sorry for the slight thread drift.
I think it looks AWESOME! Care to share your technique?
Krylon FDE base coat. Bought some plastic grass a walmart for $.50
Laid the grass and sprayed olive drab and brown randomly. Touch up here and there to blend it in how you want it.
Krylon FDE base coat. Bought some plastic grass a walmart for $.50
Laid the grass and sprayed olive drab and brown randomly. Touch up here and there to blend it in how you want it.
I'd been gaining a similar effect with actual grass from Jo-Ann fabric. I guess I need to get it cheaper and more 'paint friendly' at Wal-Mart. Thanks for the heads up...
First time painting a rifle;
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll96/jrsmokestacks/DSCF0093.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll96/jrsmokestacks/DSCF0095.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll96/jrsmokestacks/DSCF0100.jpg
http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll96/jrsmokestacks/IMG00606-20120704-18441.jpg
Wormydog1724
07-05-12, 10:20
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp247/wormydog1724/35e32aab.jpg
GotBoost2JZ
07-05-12, 19:01
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/7729/60920899.jpg
What type of paint did you use here?
This is my first attempt at Krylon on my DDM4. I need to paint the Eotech and the E1B. It blends in pretty well with southern Arkansas.
http://i872.photobucket.com/albums/ab286/Boswell59/2012-07-08_16-49-13_589.jpg
nice job!
Thank you. I think I'm going to try this pattern on a precision rifle as well.
Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk 2
KrampusArms
07-10-12, 00:01
Hey guys.
Kryloned my rifle, pics to come soon.
How long until it stops feeling tacky? Its been a little over a day. Whats it take to harden fully, a week?
Hey guys.
Kryloned my rifle, pics to come soon.
How long until it stops feeling tacky? Its been a little over a day. Whats it take to harden fully, a week?
Those times are more than acceptable
JohnVassilakos
07-10-12, 07:37
Well I finally took the plunge and painted my new rifle. I still need to add the black, but didn't realize I was out. I think it turned out pretty well at least for now. At least the coyotes won't be able to see any shiny parts. Let me know your honest opinions guys?http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2820/s3010017.jpg http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4548/s3010016.jpghttp://img689.imageshack.us/img689/3377/s3010018y.jpg
Looks good!
http://i45.tinypic.com/2zf7hxu.jpg
My BCM hodgepodge had a Krylon incident today. :cool:
With the exception of a few minor accessories, my latest Grendel is finished! So, here it is...
http://www.vomschmidthaus.com/img/uc_grendel.jpg
It consists of the following:
- Square forge mark flat-top upper
- Seekins Precision 15" SP^3R forend
- 18" AR15 Performance barrel
- AR15Performance Superbolt
- NiB bolt carrier
- Rainier Arms Raptor ambi charging handle
- Syrac Ordnance adjustable gas block
- Spikes DynaComp
- ADM Recon 30mm scope mount
- Bushnell Elite Tactical 3-12x44mm (FFP, mil/mil, illuminated reticle)
- Umbrella Corp lower
- Spikes LPK
- Troy ambi mag release
- Tactical Link battery assist lever
- Jard 3# adjustable trigger
- BAD-ASS
- KNS pins
- Larue APEG grip
- Magpul ACS
Everything is Cerakoted in "Magpul Foliage Green".
Looks great
Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 2
New paint to match the scope.
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/2012-07-15_15-59-44_444.jpg
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/2012-07-15_15-59-16_501.jpg
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/2012-07-15_15-59-33_309.jpg
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/2012-07-16_15-02-24_7.jpg
Double tap-slow effing internet
New paint to match the scope.
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/2012-07-15_15-59-44_444.jpg
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/2012-07-15_15-59-16_501.jpg
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/2012-07-15_15-59-33_309.jpg
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/2012-07-16_15-02-24_7.jpg
Nice... Airbrush I'm assuming?
Nice... Airbrush I'm assuming?
Yeah I used Airbrush on everything. Coyote Brown base coat, mask and Desert Mirage Tan, mask and then Magpul FDE. Pull all the masks off then trace the lines with Woodland Brown. All Duracoat, I do need to work on my airbrushing skills though, lines are one thing but I would love to be able to do some quality jobs like all the nice skull ones floating around. Detail painting is a must for that though and I'm lacking still......
N.Franklin
07-19-12, 18:25
Have you painted your rifles today?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v669/nf9648/Guns/DSC05011.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz355/ac45acp/Duracoat/photo2.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz355/ac45acp/Duracoat/photo1.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz355/ac45acp/Duracoat/photo3.jpg
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz355/ac45acp/Duracoat/photo4.jpg
Krylon with some honest use. It seems to wear really fast at first, then I guess it gets knocked off the high spots and pretty much stays the same.
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/sammuse/ARs/008.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/sammuse/ARs/005.jpg
Krylon with some honest use. It seems to wear really fast at first, then I guess it gets knocked off the high spots and pretty much stays the same.
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/sammuse/ARs/008.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab76/sammuse/ARs/005.jpg
She's a beaut! I really like the color you used with (I think) laundry bag/netting?
Nothing wrong with some wear! A guy saw my SBR at the range a few weeks ago and exclaimed "man, that's beatup and ugly. I love it." That's a compliment in my book, unless he's talking about my wife :eek:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/c9c9b293.jpg
First try at doing the sponge thing...
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb340/tamabrand/DSCF0174.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb340/tamabrand/DSCF0172.jpg
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb340/tamabrand/DSCF0175.jpg
Painted my brother's blaster, he didn't want much green...
http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb340/tamabrand/614743_4115197796532_1048072379_o.jpg
Brian Brazier
07-21-12, 01:47
Both look good, I really like the Cobra patch on your bag. I got a question do you guys strip all the accessories off and paint, or leave them on?
Both look good, I really like the Cobra patch on your bag. I got a question do you guys strip all the accessories off and paint, or leave them on?
If theres paint on acc., they didn't take off to paint:D.
Brian Brazier
07-21-12, 01:55
I was wondering if people paint the rifle, then paint sights, rail covers, etc... or if its best to paint them mounted?
I was wondering if people paint the rifle, then paint sights, rail covers, etc... or if its best to paint them mounted? I know I get silly the later it gets. Most people I have known that rattle canned it, did so with everything in place. I'm sure some OCD guys strip it down and try and make it as prof. as possible. To each he's own. I personnaly think the rubbed off paint gives its own unique camo type. So I wouldn't worry too much.
Brian Brazier
07-21-12, 02:31
Thanks, I figured it would be easiest to do with everything mounted, plus the finish will be more consistent
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg534/scaled.php?server=534&filename=39410747.jpg&res=landing
Both look good, I really like the Cobra patch on your bag. I got a question do you guys strip all the accessories off and paint, or leave them on?
Left everything in place, just taped lenses/tailcaps/eotech dials.
http://i.imgur.com/efKqH.jpg
Post your painted AR's here and possibly a brief description on your inspiration or process.
Here's mine:
Started with a new build and decided to use Brownell's Alumahide in Caote and Dark Earth. I also decide to use both colors and use the darker tone as contrast.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/peewee_dignos/A049-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/peewee_dignos/A051.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/peewee_dignos/A038.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/peewee_dignos/A039-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/peewee_dignos/A052.jpg
After a few weeks, I decided to paint my other AR this time in OD. I gambled and used a new paint called Painter's Choice (Oregano) and went with an old OD look.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/peewee_dignos/OD1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/peewee_dignos/OD4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/peewee_dignos/OD2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v521/peewee_dignos/OD3.jpg
Wow, those look amazing!! I really like 2nd one with that off green/black color. The colors match and look so nice together! Out of curiosity, how do you paint them so they turn out so nice? Specialty paints?
Cerakote on everything except bipod.
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/5196/49629942.jpg
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1897/63783208.jpg
Brian Brazier
07-27-12, 18:14
Looks good Kilo
Appalachian
07-27-12, 19:24
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii545/AppalachianTraining/paintM.png
Kryloned N4 with a little age on it.
Lookin good (and abused) Kilo :D
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/15edead4.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/5196/49629942.jpg
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/1897/63783208.jpg
If it were black, that is pretty much my patrol rifle setup for work. I got to my current setup through trial and error, it is amusing to me to see that someone else got to the same place, independently. I am stuck with an Eotech 552, sitting on a LaRue riser until our M-4s are replaced with PDWs. I moved the light to the right and am using the same top mounted pressure pad. So far, this is working well, within the limits of what the rifle will let me do, as I cannot modify anything I wish I had three more inches of rail as a proper grip requires it. I recently changed out sling mounts, to a new clamp on setup (can't remove the receiver extension) and like it very much, it's from Mission Adapted Design and if one cannot remove their receiver extension, this is the way to go.
For those looking for an easy, one-stop solution to painting their rifles, London Bridge Trading, Co. just announced a kit, available next month (pre-orders accepted) for a four color kit, with stencils. As an all-in-one solution, it looks to contain everything one would want or need.
You can read about it here,
http://lbxtactical.com/products/project-honor-camo-spray-kit
http://soldiersystems.net/page/3/
For those looking for an easy, one-stop solution to painting their rifles, London Bridge Trading, Co. just announced a kit, available next month (pre-orders accepted) for a four color kit, with stencils. As an all-in-one solution, it looks to contain everything one would want or need.
You can read about it here,
http://lbxtactical.com/products/project-honor-camo-spray-kit
http://soldiersystems.net/page/3/
I'll pass this along thanks!
Do you happen to know if that's a proprietary paint or if they just re branded something?
Brian Brazier
07-28-12, 15:57
That kit looks interesting, I dont care much for the digital pattern, but it has all the best colors and the LBX logo stencil is cool.
If it were black, that is pretty much my patrol rifle setup for work. I got to my current setup through trial and error, it is amusing to me to see that someone else got to the same place, independently. I am stuck with an Eotech 552, sitting on a LaRue riser until our M-4s are replaced with PDWs. I moved the light to the right and am using the same top mounted pressure pad. So far, this is working well, within the limits of what the rifle will let me do, as I cannot modify anything I wish I had three more inches of rail as a proper grip requires it. I recently changed out sling mounts, to a new clamp on setup (can't remove the receiver extension) and like it very much, it's from Mission Adapted Design and if one cannot remove their receiver extension, this is the way to go.
Great minds think alike. 7'inch rails like the RAS are limiting...but they're workable. I still think they're the best Non FF rail out there. I may go for the Centurion arms FSB rail later, not sure yet. I'm also looking at the Troy Delta rail because it's drop in FF w/o all the unneeded rails.
jonconsiglio
07-28-12, 19:43
For those looking for an easy, one-stop solution to painting their rifles, London Bridge Trading, Co. just announced a kit, available next month (pre-orders accepted) for a four color kit, with stencils. As an all-in-one solution, it looks to contain everything one would want or need.
You can read about it here,
http://lbxtactical.com/products/project-honor-camo-spray-kit
http://soldiersystems.net/page/3/
I really like the Multi Spec from Bulldog Arms - http://www.stevensonenterprise.com/bulldogarms/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=srsvjglrbild833kipj5h6obk0
DSG Arms has the Aervoe kits as well for a few different patterns - http://dsgarms.com/search.aspx?keyword=aervoe&page=1
Which PDW's will you guys be buying to replace your M4's?
I just very loosely traced some Multicam patterns onto a manilla folder and cut them out to do mine…
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5326/7089441211_0a61cfd176_c.jpg
http://i1259.photobucket.com/albums/ii545/AppalachianTraining/paintM.png
Kryloned N4 with a little age on it.
Looks awesome. Great config, too. What mount for the scout(?)
I really like the Multi Spec from Bulldog Arms - http://www.stevensonenterprise.com/bulldogarms/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=srsvjglrbild833kipj5h6obk0
DSG Arms has the Aervoe kits as well for a few different patterns - http://dsgarms.com/search.aspx?keyword=aervoe&page=1
Which PDW's will you guys be buying to replace your M4's?
I just very loosely traced some Multicam patterns onto a manilla folder and cut them out to do mine…
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5326/7089441211_0a61cfd176_c.jpg
A hundred or so pages back in this thread is an early pic of my Recce, painted in Multicam, using Bulldog stencils. I like the results. In the end I painted the light splotches fuzzy and then frosted the rifle as the lines seemed to be too sharp to me. I used the Bulldog stencils and a Multicam painting guide I Googled up from some paintballer site (Although I find paintball silly, the Multicam painting tutorial was first rate). As for the PDW, I don't know if they made it from the RFQ to testing phase yet. Based on the specs, I can only think of three or four weapons that fit the bill; we'll see. I am still bemoaning the loss of our AUG-P's a few years ago.
Great minds think alike. 7'inch rails like the RAS are limiting...but they're workable. I still think they're the best Non FF rail out there. I may go for the Centurion arms FSB rail later, not sure yet. I'm also looking at the Troy Delta rail because it's drop in FF w/o all the unneeded rails.
Kilo, I used the Centurion 10" C4 rail on my wife's lightweight build, great rail, tough to beat. I'd recommend you go with the C4 FSB.
TacticalTyler
07-30-12, 16:56
http://www.freeimagehosting.net/newuploads/xdvp1.jpg
Terlingueno
08-01-12, 15:59
Rattle canned one of my SOCOM barreled Colt carbines...
http://i48.tinypic.com/ogfgaq.jpg
I painted mine over this past weekend.....
http://i46.tinypic.com/16awbj6.jpg
http://i49.tinypic.com/169q6tz.jpg
I think we need bigger pics of those! Looks good!
irishhitman
08-02-12, 21:38
How can you get the paint to adhere well to a stainless barrel.... or is it impossible????:blink:
TangoSauce
08-02-12, 22:31
How can you get the paint to adhere well to a stainless barrel.... or is it impossible????:blink:
Bead blast the barrel.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/9657dbd8.jpg
Robb Jensen
08-03-12, 09:54
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/gotm4/5622afab.jpg
I finally took the plunge and painted my 12.5... There's a little bit of OD hazed in there. Panels, CTR, MIAD and AFG all dyed "SOCOM DE-ish".
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7252/7731001160_2f5a88dc3e_b.jpg
Brother...that color looks AWESOME....very original IMO...not the Green or day to day Tan...
VERY KOOL!
Velcro
Thanks man! I appreciate it. Not entirely original though... Eternal24k has a mk18 anodized and rit dyed SOCOM DE.
Yeah, that's pretty awesome.
And by pretty awesome I mean hella sick.
Appalachian
08-08-12, 12:00
Looks awesome. Great config, too. What mount for the scout(?)
Hey thanks. It is a Gear Sector with a Lumamax single mode Surefire in it. Turned out to be a very light carbine setup.
http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/1259/sidesw.jpg
http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/1259/sidesw.jpg
Nice piece - only thing you're missing is a clearing rod
Nice piece - only thing you're missing is a clearing rod
Thanks. Funny thing is that I had it on earlier, but I removed it. Still trying to find a more efficient way to mount it.
How can you get the paint to adhere well to a stainless barrel.... or is it impossible????:blink:
Stainless is quite easy to paint. But liked mentioned previously it works better if roughed up. I paint stainless at work regularly, I use a 4 1/2" grinder with a brown 3M rolock pad to rough up the areas that have been machined or previously polished. We use Aervoe paint, and I've seen rentals come back after a few months of abuse and thy are still retaining 95% of their paint.
Quote:
Originally Posted by currahee
Nice piece - only thing you're missing is a clearing rod
Thanks. Funny thing is that I had it on earlier, but I removed it. Still trying to find a more efficient way to mount it.
Ranger bands man, ranger bands!
Seriously, it got a lot easier when I went to a long hand guard. I changed stocks and can't keep a pressure dressing on mine anymore, thinking of taping one to the handguard.
Just got this finished. Looks a lot lighter in the pics than it really is. I still think it may need a bit more green.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s299/bucksarge/AR014666-4.jpg
TangoSauce
08-11-12, 19:33
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/gotm4/5622afab.jpg
Very nice Robb.
jonconsiglio
08-15-12, 11:37
I just finished this BCM 14.5". It normally has a T1 and a 3x mount, but I had to borrow the Comp M2 (which he had already painted) from forum member Munch520 because both my T1's, my magnifier and my 10.5" LMT upper along with a couple Surefires were all in one of my range bags, which was swiped a couple weeks ago.
I didn't paint the light or switch because this is the last rifle I have with a switch, and the Scout will soon be on the left side in a new offset mount (once it arrives) and using the click on/off tailcap.
As for the Bad-ASS selector CASS 3p, I took the levers off and just forgot to paint them.
I apologize it's on the bricks and not showing the effectiveness. I'll get a better pic once it cures.
Aervoe Sand, Marine Corps Green, Dark Green, Highland and dusted with OD Green. The accents are Krylon Brown and Tan. The whole thing took maybe 20 minutes.
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/AF6903BE-F18D-4B01-A9FE-B1D6AE249A12-323-00000084BD453E74-1.jpg
Jon,
That looks awesome. I'm going to have to learn how to do that and paint up my SPR build when I get home.
jonconsiglio
08-15-12, 13:00
Jon,
That looks awesome. I'm going to have to learn how to do that and paint up my SPR build when I get home.
Your's already look awesome man, I actually took your advice when I painted my first set of rifles early this year.
I got your PM. I'm walking out the door and will reply in a few hours.
I just finished this BCM 14.5". It normally has a T1 and a 3x mount, but I had to borrow the Comp M2 (which he had already painted) from forum member Munch520 because both my T1's, my magnifier and my 10.5" LMT upper along with a couple Surefires were all in one of my range bags, which was swiped a couple weeks ago.
I didn't paint the light or switch because this is the last rifle I have with a switch, and the Scout will soon be on the left side in a new offset mount (once it arrives) and using the click on/off tailcap.
As for the Bad-ASS selector CASS 3p, I took the levers off and just forgot to paint them.
I apologize it's on the bricks and not showing the effectiveness. I'll get a better pic once it cures.
Aervoe Sand, Marine Corps Green, Dark Green, Highland and dusted with OD Green. The accents are Krylon Brown and Tan. The whole thing took maybe 20 minutes.
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/AF6903BE-F18D-4B01-A9FE-B1D6AE249A12-323-00000084BD453E74-1.jpg
One of the best paint jobs I've seen yet. Well done.
I just finished this BCM 14.5". It normally has a T1 and a 3x mount, but I had to borrow the Comp M2 (which he had already painted) from forum member Munch520 because both my T1's, my magnifier and my 10.5" LMT upper along with a couple Surefires were all in one of my range bags, which was swiped a couple weeks ago.
I didn't paint the light or switch because this is the last rifle I have with a switch, and the Scout will soon be on the left side in a new offset mount (once it arrives) and using the click on/off tailcap.
As for the Bad-ASS selector CASS 3p, I took the levers off and just forgot to paint them.
I apologize it's on the bricks and not showing the effectiveness. I'll get a better pic once it cures.
Aervoe Sand, Marine Corps Green, Dark Green, Highland and dusted with OD Green. The accents are Krylon Brown and Tan. The whole thing took maybe 20 minutes.
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/AF6903BE-F18D-4B01-A9FE-B1D6AE249A12-323-00000084BD453E74-1.jpg
Wow.
Magpul Stock/Grip?
If so, how well does the paint adhere to it?
Does the (Aimpoint) setting switch have problems with paint, or is the coat light enough to avoid filling spaces in?
Again, a beautiful rifle.
Wow.
Magpul Stock/Grip?
If so, how well does the paint adhere to it?
Does the (Aimpoint) setting switch have problems with paint, or is the coat light enough to avoid filling spaces in?
Again, a beautiful rifle.
Not Jon, but the paint came off my stock pretty easily. I blame it on the beard.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/B5E544FA-99BF-46D9-8D60-D1AB23572C1D-8255-000004AE96176CDE.jpg
The optic's mine, and I haven't had problems with getting paint on the adjustment knob, it still clicks positively. (obviously I'm careful with the glass, but that's it).
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/2c3e0059.jpg
Upgraded the optic to an Aimpoint H1 on a Larue LT751 so I had to update my pics....now that it's has some character chips in the paint. :cool:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/eurowannabe/pieces/DSCN0811.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/eurowannabe/pieces/DSCN0813.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/eurowannabe/pieces/DSCN0821.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/eurowannabe/pieces/DSCN0830.jpg
Looks good! May want to rethink WL placement, 6 o'clock is the least desirable (many threads can be found on the topic) :)
jonconsiglio
08-15-12, 19:10
SOWT... It's a Magpul CTR and moe grip. I was running a SOPMOD and BG17 grip, but switched back. The Aervoe paint adheres much better than Krylon, especially to the plastics. If you look back a few pages or so, you'll see another 4 rifles, 2 optics, 2 handguns and 2 suppressors that I painted and they have held up much better than expected.
As Munch said, the optic is his, but the knob moves freely, as do all the small parts on the rifles and other optics I've painted, just spray very light dusting coats so it goes on extremely thin. Let me it it this way... When the paint dried on the PMAGs, the bottom plate still moves freely, so even that super thin gap isn't filled when panted properly.
Looks good! May want to rethink WL placement, 6 o'clock is the least desirable (many threads can be found on the topic) :)
Yeah, i've read many of those threads about WL position.....but nobody will ever accuse me of being a follower just because someone said something was better. ;) Better is subjective and based on ones personal preference for what works best for them.
I never liked the higher WL positions, after trying high right and high left I settled on 6 o'clock because I can operate the on/off button with my pinky finger and the mode switch with my index finger much easier than any other position I've tried....then I just sling my thumb over the top of the hand guard.....as in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yhk0CDbsLo
Here's another pic to keep the thread from getting cluttered with text. ;)
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/eurowannabe/pieces/DSCN0827.jpg
Yeah, i've read many of those threads about WL position.....but nobody will ever accuse me of being a follower just because someone said something was better. ;) Better is subjective and based on ones personal preference for what works best for them.
I never liked the higher WL positions, after trying high right and high left I settled on 6 o'clock because I can operate the on/off button with my pinky finger and the mode switch with my index finger much easier than any other position I've tried....then I just sling my thumb over the top of the hand guard.....as in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yhk0CDbsLo
Here's another pic to keep the thread from getting cluttered with text. ;)
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/eurowannabe/pieces/DSCN0827.jpg
How you shoot and where you place your light are the least of my concerns, so you can do what you like...however, I would like to explain WHY you should at least consider a different light placement as Munch suggested.
Based on your shooting style (thumb wrapped over top rail) I would suggest a light placement of 1:30 via an offset mount...I mean your thumb is already sitting there anyway, might as well make it easy on yourself when using a light, right? As far as light mounts go, I would suggest one of the Haley Strategic Thorntails (if QD isn't a consideration for you) or a LaRue if it is. This is how I shoot, so I'm speaking from a position of actual user input.
This will do a few things for you:
1) Toggle the tailcap with your thumb. I think you'll agree that you'll get much more positive switching from your thumb vs. your pinky. Just how it is, biomechanics and all ya know....As an example, do you text with your thumbs or your pinkies? ;)
2) Free up the bottom rail to get a better grip, further out on the gun (from the vid, it doesn't look like you're using that long rail to its full potential), thus giving better control in driving the gun and controlling recoil.
3) When using a barricade, you can rest the bottom of the handguard on top of the barricade instead of your light (usually for longer shots from a barricade). It would be a much more stable platform.
It is much more about using a light position that is proven to work than it is just "following a fad". I'm not a follower either, but when you see a majority of shooters (especially the ones that have BTDT) using the 1:30 or 11:30 position, its not a fad...its called a CLUE.
Also, as a side note, it sounds like you have a variable mode light. For a weapon mounted light, it really should be single output...or at least a variable mode light that you can "lock in" one mode to where you have the max output everytime you press the button. Just something to think about...
Based on your shooting style (thumb wrapped over top rail) I would suggest a light placement of 1:30 via an offset mount...I mean your thumb is already sitting there anyway, might as well make it easy on yourself when using a light, right? As far as light mounts go, I would suggest one of the Haley Strategic Thorntails (if QD isn't a consideration for you) or a LaRue if it is. This is how I shoot, so I'm speaking from a position of actual user input.
This will do a few things for you:
1) Toggle the tailcap with your thumb. I think you'll agree that you'll get much more positive switching from your thumb vs. your pinky. Just how it is, biomechanics and all ya know....As an example, do you text with your thumbs or your pinkies? ;)
2) Free up the bottom rail to get a better grip, further out on the gun (from the vid, it doesn't look like you're using that long rail to its full potential), thus giving better control in driving the gun and controlling recoil.
3) When using a barricade, you can rest the bottom of the handguard on top of the barricade instead of your light (usually for longer shots from a barricade). It would be a much more stable platform.
It is much more about using a light position that is proven to work than it is just "following a fad". I'm not a follower either, but when you see a majority of shooters (especially the ones that have BTDT) using the 1:30 or 11:30 position, its not a fad...its called a CLUE.
Also, as a side note, it sounds like you have a variable mode light. For a weapon mounted light, it really should be single output...or at least a variable mode light that you can "lock in" one mode to where you have the max output everytime you press the button. Just something to think about...
Ok, I get some of what you're saying, and it makes sense....but let me clarify a little bit.
My light is NOT a high-end light, it's a Fenix TK15, the mode button I have is mostly for turning on the strobe, the basic output setting is already set at high so hitting the 'on' button at the back is all I need to fire it up.
'Toggling' the switch with the thumb is a more positive way to activate the switch, I can't disagree with you there, but I must say that with a little practice the pinky finger has worked out pretty well....even better than I expected. (I do NOT text message so it's a non-issue for my thumbs ;)). Currently, the way I'm gripping the rifle and light the index finger is always within easy reach of the mode switch and the pinky rests at the back end of the light, where the on-off switch is, with a little pressure from either I can operate the light with little movement from my fingers. (I know this method is not for everyone due to the differences in the sizes and shapes of hands and fingers, but for me it is something that was not hard to adjust to)
I do see your point about using barricades, and how a bare hand guard would be the preferred way to approach that. So far most of the time I've used barricades for support I've used my hand below the hand guard (light or no light) as sort of an automatic response. Doing it that way allows me to make slight adjustments in my aiming point without having to move my body or torso to acquire the target.....it's merely a movement of the hand or fingers slightly. If barricade shooting became a more common thing I could simply hit the lever on the light mount and take it off in a few seconds.
Believe me, I do appreciate the input, and the time you took to explain your position on light placement, and....as many times as I've changed things on my rifles I'd bet I'm not done yet. In fact I've been considering the Larue offset light mount for some time now and may go that route before too long....if for no other reason than to test that particular mount out. I've used a DD offset light mount for awhile but it stuck out too far from the hand guard, so the Larue may work out better. I'll also check out the one you mentioned as an option.
Thanks again for taking time to explain tactical light placement.
:)
Upgraded the optic to an Aimpoint H1 on a Larue LT751 so I had to update my pics....now that it's has some character chips in the paint. :cool:
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/eurowannabe/pieces/DSCN0811.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n8/eurowannabe/pieces/DSCN0813.jpg
I really like the green. Good job.
Who makes the tomahawk in these pics?
Steve, The hawk is a 2 Hawks 'Black Hawk', they just hit the market recently.... I got serial number #26.
They are not even listed on his website yet...that's how 'new' they are.
jonconsiglio
08-19-12, 12:17
I touched it up with a little sand dusting on the receivers yesterday.
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/6DBE0239-1883-4348-863D-C4750A464BE2-551-000000EC25B8D2DE.jpg
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/ECFDC8E5-912A-47B5-85F4-325DE46A1C38-555-000000EC6DBAFFE7.jpg
jonconsiglio, What brand name & color Green did you use in your Multi-Camo job spray paint? Looks really good.
jonconsiglio
08-19-12, 21:19
What brand name & color Green did you use in your Multi-Camo job spray paint? Looks really good.
Aervoe. The base is sand then has areas of Marine Corps green (you can see this on the bottom front of the mag and the front of the stock), a touch of dark green and field drab, then an overspray of OD Green and a little on the receivers.
Let me know if I can be more specific.
I touched it up with a little sand dusting on the receivers yesterday.
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/6DBE0239-1883-4348-863D-C4750A464BE2-551-000000EC25B8D2DE.jpg
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/ECFDC8E5-912A-47B5-85F4-325DE46A1C38-555-000000EC6DBAFFE7.jpg
Mad skills Jon!...makes me want to try.
All due respect to others and their opinions, but there's nothing wrong with a light at 6 o'clock. My agency's issued team guns (CAR-15's) have their lights there. And several of our guys are combat veterans who had VFG's and lights and all manner of kit hanging from the underside of their rifles. FWIW.
Now back to normal programming. :cool:
I really like the green. Good job.
Who makes the tomahawk in these pics?
I just got the word that a newer design will be skeletonized to make it lighter, just not sure when that one will be available.
Thanks for asking.
kaltesherz
08-20-12, 18:02
Here's mine, painted it with Coyote Aervoe and it's been holding up great. It gets a shade darker after getting carbon and SLIP2000 on it, my crappy camera doesn't do it justice.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u64/kaltesherz/028-2.jpg
Aervoe. The base is sand then has areas of Marine Corps green (you can see this on the bottom front of the mag and the front of the stock), a touch of dark green and field drab, then an overspray of OD Green and a little on the receivers.
Let me know if I can be more specific.
Jon.... really well done man:)
The search button led me to a set of painting directions from Pat Rogers. I had to paint 4 sections on a rake handle before I got it right and then painted my DD midlength. The first 3 sections were just a big blob of green. The 4th one turned out right and I did the rifle. I'm glad I finally got the courage to paint one. Let me know what you think of it.
Eric
JohnVassilakos
08-20-12, 21:45
The search button led me to a set of painting directions from Pat Rogers. I had to paint 4 sections on a rake handle before I got it right and then painted my DD midlength. The first 3 sections were just a big blob of green. The 4th one turned out right and I did the rifle. I'm glad I finally got the courage to paint one. Let me know what you think of it.
Eric
Looks very nice.
http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/o616/mgdave/933f45ff.jpg
http://i1150.photobucket.com/albums/o616/mgdave/58b7f2c3.jpg
How you shoot and where you place your light are the least of my concerns, so you can do what you like...however, I would like to explain WHY you should at least consider a different light placement as Munch suggested.
Based on your shooting style (thumb wrapped over top rail) I would suggest a light placement of 1:30 via an offset mount...I mean your thumb is already sitting there anyway, might as well make it easy on yourself when using a light, right? As far as light mounts go, I would suggest one of the Haley Strategic Thorntails (if QD isn't a consideration for you) or a LaRue if it is. This is how I shoot, so I'm speaking from a position of actual user input.
This will do a few things for you:
1) Toggle the tailcap with your thumb. I think you'll agree that you'll get much more positive switching from your thumb vs. your pinky. Just how it is, biomechanics and all ya know....As an example, do you text with your thumbs or your pinkies? ;)
2) Free up the bottom rail to get a better grip, further out on the gun (from the vid, it doesn't look like you're using that long rail to its full potential), thus giving better control in driving the gun and controlling recoil.
3) When using a barricade, you can rest the bottom of the handguard on top of the barricade instead of your light (usually for longer shots from a barricade). It would be a much more stable platform.
It is much more about using a light position that is proven to work than it is just "following a fad". I'm not a follower either, but when you see a majority of shooters (especially the ones that have BTDT) using the 1:30 or 11:30 position, its not a fad...its called a CLUE.
Also, as a side note, it sounds like you have a variable mode light. For a weapon mounted light, it really should be single output...or at least a variable mode light that you can "lock in" one mode to where you have the max output everytime you press the button. Just something to think about...
What I was thinking, articulated into print better than I could have said it. Thanks man! :cool:
jonconsiglio
08-28-12, 17:30
Thanks to the extreme generosity of GTF425, I have an M4s to use while I save up to replace my stolen T1's, 10.5" upper and a few other things, and give Munch520 his M2 back inthe next couple weeks when he comes to South Texas.
The M4s came painted and works well with my rifle. I picked up a replacement 3x magnifier, but will have to wait on the LaRue flip-to-side mount. Obviously the 3x needs some paint, but after painting the rubber grip of the Benelli and it taking weeks to dry thoroughly, I'm hesitant.
I can't thank those two guys enough for helping me out with the optics.
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/8F7EAC6E-27BC-4A75-A168-5D06094DFF96-290-0000006D9329F408.jpg
Here's the best I could come up with for now for an area pic.
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/jonconsiglio/91F4E93D-9E79-417A-9AC8-C89BC3D7A823-290-0000006CDB88DBF9.jpg
Glad it made it there safely, Jon.
Now stop taking pics and go shoot the hell out of it.
jonconsiglio
08-29-12, 09:04
Glad it made it there safely, Jon.
Now stop taking pics and go shoot the hell out of it.
On my way in a few! Did you get my PM?
The Painted Lady. S&W M&P OR 15.
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa53/Kodiakco/Firearms/IMG_0790.jpg
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa53/Kodiakco/Firearms/IMG_0791.jpg
Sent from my DROIDX
The Painted Lady. S&W M&P OR 15.
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa53/Kodiakco/Firearms/IMG_0790.jpg
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa53/Kodiakco/Firearms/IMG_0791.jpg
Sent from my DROIDX
Nice. Love the multicam paint schemes.
jonconsiglio
08-31-12, 13:59
SOWT's 700 (with my AR) that I painted last night. Hopefully he'll post some better pics!
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8311/7900722446_6e3daebd13_c.jpg
SOWT's 700 (with my AR) that I painted last night. Hopefully he'll post some better pics!
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8311/7900722446_6e3daebd13_c.jpg
Those are some great looking TX patterns!
SOWT's 700 (with my AR) that I painted last night. Hopefully he'll post some better pics!
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8311/7900722446_6e3daebd13_c.jpg
It'll be a week or so before I can post pics; that will be a post-surgery activity.
Thanks for "doing her" and showing me the ropes. I hope to have my other rifles finished/painted by October.
Damn Jon. Drinks on me if you can work your wizardry on my SBR when I come to TX. She needs help :haha:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/12cf4915.jpg
jonconsiglio
08-31-12, 19:58
Damn Jon. Drinks on me if you can work your wizardry on my SBR when I come to TX. She needs help :haha:
I'll fix it up. When will you be here, any idea yet?
SOWT's 700 (with my AR) that I painted last night. Hopefully he'll post some better pics!
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8311/7900722446_6e3daebd13_c.jpg
can I ask how you did this it looks harass.
I'll fix it up. When will you be here, any idea yet?
Gunnin for 9/12-9/14. Trying to line up clients in Houston.
SOWT's 700 (with my AR) that I painted last night. Hopefully he'll post some better pics!
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8311/7900722446_6e3daebd13_c.jpg
Jon, you're rapidly turning into the Picasso of carbine painting.
Any chance you might want to post a how-to on your method and paints for those of us whose right brain didn't develop as fully? :D
Jon, you're rapidly turning into the Picasso of carbine painting.
Any chance you might want to post a how-to on your method and paints for those of us whose right brain didn't develop as fully? :D
I told him we would video the next build and put it on youtube.
He's a great guy BTW.
jonconsiglio
09-01-12, 00:20
can I ask how you did this it looks harass.
Jon, you're rapidly turning into the Picasso of carbine painting.
Any chance you might want to post a how-to on your method and paints for those of us whose right brain didn't develop as fully? :D
Thanks, but I'm not that good and it's not that hard once you figure it out. I started with the "book of Pat" on Lightfighter, forum member AShooter and forum member GTF425 helped me quite a bit when I started with the VZ58, Benelli, suppressors and others, which are a few pages back.
I'll write up a detailed how to for the way I do it tomorrow morning, but I highly recommend everyone That's interested Google Pat Rogers rifle painting, the thread on Lightfighter "...the Book of Pat" and I believe there's an article in SWAT as well.
Here's the other side of the rifle. Below that are some others I've done.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8180/7900696286_d8c7d6213c_c.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7221/7089439539_7310cdd1d7_c.jpg
jonconsiglio
09-01-12, 00:45
I told him we would video the next build and put it on youtube.
He's a great guy BTW.
That's right... We'll do that. Thanks!
jonconsiglio
09-01-12, 12:28
I'm writing up an explanation now and will post it shortly. I'll post it here I guess instead of starting a new thread.
jonconsiglio
09-01-12, 12:29
I wasn't sure if it would be more of a benefit to post this in a stickied thread on painting or start a new one. So, I figured I'd just post it here.
Edit - I have no clue what happened, I must have deleted the text somehow when I was copying it to post on another forum. I'll post it back in a bit.
Painting rifles...
I'll start again by saying everything I do started by talking to m4carbine and Lightfighter forum members GTF425, AShooter and Pat Rogers' thread "Painting Your Carbine - from the Book of Pat". Everything is just a variation of what I learned from them.
The colors I use the most are Aervoe Sand, Marine Corps Green (which is the large dark patches of green you see), Dark Green (which is more like grass), Field Drab, Highland, Light Coyote and OD Green - Post WWII. For the accents I use Aervoe Sand or Krylon Tan with Krylon Brown. I don't use all of these colors on each rifle, it's just the ones I use for everything. I have plenty more, but these are the ones I prefer.
I'll use SOWT's 700 to explain the process. (SOWT is a member on Lightfighter and m4carbine and I painted his hog rifle, a Remington 700. The picture is below with my 14.5" AR as well).
For prep, I just clean the rifle and wipe it dry. I leave everything in place, especially the optics. I stick a foam earplug inside the barrel and use tape over the front and rear of the optics. I just press the tape on like a lens cover, no need to get too precise. I tape off the trigger and bolt as well, or close the dust cover on an AR. I also tape of the rubber on the stock. Not for any reason other than in my experience, like with the Benelli, it takes considerably longer to dry.
I usually let the rifle sit in the sun for a good 15 to 30 minutes before painting so there's no moisture on the surface.
• The first thing I do is put down a base coat of Aervoe Sand. It doesn't have to be perfect as we're painting over a good portion of it anyway. I hold the can about 12" to 18" away and do long passes, starting to spray before I get to the rifle and continuing to spray just past it, this way there's no build up.
You'll notice the paint barely goes on and it's a very light dusting at first, that's a good thing. I'd rather pass over an area ten times with very light coats than once with a heavy coat. There's no instant gratification here, but trust me, it'll come together in no time.
• Once I have a good base coat down, I start with the large splotches of color. I use Marine Corps Green first and for the largest sections. I use a piece of cardboard that I cut a waves pattern into on the edge (idea from AShooter). I hold this near the rifle and spray the MC Green. I dust it on similar to the Sand. What will happen here is there will be a solid separation where the pattern shows, the you can fade it out slightly on the other side.
You can see in the pics that I use palm size section of MC Green and leave as much, or slightly more, Sand showing through. There's no set way that I do this, I just add it and make it larger if needed.
• Now, I'll use the Field Drab and Dark Green and dust just a light amount into the areas where the Sand and MC Green meet. To give you an idea of how little, I've been through three or four cans of Sand and a little less than two of OD Green on all these rifles, but I'm still on the first can of all the accent colors and you can barely tell a difference in weight from when they were new.
• Once that is done, I'll take the OD Green and dust it over the entire rifle, basically putting down a very light coat over everything that is almost unnoticeable as its happening, but can quickly get away from you and cover everything you just did. So always err on the side of caution here. I'll go a little heavier in some areas and hardly dust others, this is usually decided as I'm spraying.
• Accents - I took a few manilla folders and traced/drew Multicam style patterns on them using Multicam I have here. I then cut them out with Of the folders. Well, I had my wife do it. She thought I was a little retarded but she did it anyway...
I then just held the patterns next to the rifle and sprayed directly through them, not the normal sweeping motion. Go very light, especially with the Brown, but don't go too light where you have to do it again as it might not be in the same place exactly.
What I've found works really well here is using the tan accents over darker areas of the rifle and using the brown accents over the lighter areas of the rifle. The accents are much more noticeable and give that separation we need for a truly effective camo.
• Finally, I might give a light dusting of OD Green again once the accents are done, but too much will quickly subdue the accents to a point where they'll be less effective.
One thing I've noticed is that many people will try to use subtle fades and blend everything together and when viewed from a distance it's just one blob of color. That's better than black, but still not what we're looking for. For camo to truly be effective, we need to break up the pattern. The best way to do this is with contrast and sharp separation with no straight lines.
The accents I use are not a must. They double the painting time and though they help, solid blotches of paint will work pretty much just as well for most people's needs. The 14.5" rifle I painted is not my work rifle and it's primary use is trainng and occasional hog and coyote hunting. I'm not trying to disappear from the enemy, I just want my gun to blend a bit better. Another benefit to painting the rifles is they don't get nearly as hot in the Aouth Texas sun. I'd say that's one of my main reasons now for painting.
This is obviously not as durable as other coatings out there, but I just don't care. I'm not trying to make them look pretty though I can't help myself at times and do try to do it right. Over time, they get the beat up look I prefer. Obviously, that's not for everyone.
Feel free to PM with any questions.
Again, I did not figure this out on my own, I learned it all from forum members AShooter, GTF425 and Pat Rogers' thread.... Plus others bits I've picked up from others along the way.
Here are a bunch of pics. Near the bottom of the set you'll see a little bit of the process on the VZ58. Ill pick the ones that matter and post them in this thread later today.
All the painted rifle pics are in this set and not grouped together, though most are in the middle or end. there are pics of the Vz58 before the accents and final dusting. You'll see I dusted it too heavy and removed most of the other colors.
http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/24925870@N00/sets/72157629846580235/
Here's the paints that I use, but not all on one rifle, and the cutouts below. This is all very simple and easy to do, hopefully I didn't make it sound complicated n any way.*
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8438/7907599188_cb215e828c_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8038/7907598454_35a829df9b_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8441/7907597818_8b894651fb_c.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5320/6943369796_2b12ceca4f_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8180/7900696286_d8c7d6213c_c.jpg
Jon
Its not paint but cerakote. I did it myself :secret:
Looking for some colors so I can airbrush a custom camo scheme.
http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg568/420ollie/a1df359e.jpg
MidwestRookie
09-01-12, 22:59
Painting rifles...
Thank you very much for the write up, I know I'm not the only one who will appreciate it.
I'm sure I'll PM you eventually about something, but I only have one quick question right now..
Up here in the Midwest it's obviously a darker environment than the desert, so I ordered coyote Aervoe instead of sand, which looks like the perfect choice for the base of a desert type camo (the sand color), but not so much for a darker northern woodland type. Hoping to end up with something very similar to your last picture, but a little darker with more green (ordered 3 different shades of green to see if I can find something that works well together).
Any thoughts? I know it's impossible to know what it looks like around here, but do you think something darker than sand would help with a darker overall pattern?
Again, many thanks for the post..I can't wait to spray mine!
jonconsiglio
09-02-12, 00:31
Thank you very much for the write up, I know I'm not the only one who will appreciate it.
I'm sure I'll PM you eventually about something, but I only have one quick question right now..
Up here in the Midwest it's obviously a darker environment than the desert, so I ordered coyote Aervoe instead of sand, which looks like the perfect choice for the base of a desert type camo (the sand color), but not so much for a darker northern woodland type. Hoping to end up with something very similar to your last picture, but a little darker with more green (ordered 3 different shades of green to see if I can find something that works well together).
Any thoughts? I know it's impossible to know what it looks like around here, but do you think something darker than sand would help with a darker overall pattern?
Again, many thanks for the post..I can't wait to spray mine!
I think even the way I painted the 700 would work in that environment. But, you can also do more browns, dust heavier with OD Green and use a bit more Dark Green, which is the grassy color on the Henry Mare's Leg I posted. Use more Highland as well.
Again, make sure there's solid separation and you don't want to give up the light colors. Even in the darkest areas, there will be light tan accents. It's surprising how important they can be in camo for most environments.
If I think of anything, I'll post back. Feel free to PM me.
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/2012-09-03_14-13-20_420.jpg
^ Nice, jaxman7! What brand paint and color is that? Did you paint the stock as well or did you dye it?
Thanks man. I appreciate it! The paint used was Krylon's camouflage paint with fusion (whatever that means). Yeh the stock was black to begin with so I had to paint that as well.
Looking forward to getting the worn look. Never liked a new looking gun. ;)
Here's another:
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/2012-09-03_14-14-23_369.jpg
-Jax
ETA: Might help in answering your question if I tell you the color. It's brown and I am pretty sure in their camo line of paint there is only one shade of that color.
jonconsiglio
09-04-12, 00:30
That's the Brown I use for the accents. I've never seen a rifle painted solid brown like that, it looks good.
Jon,
Your skills are FAR beyond what I would even attempt with a rattle can. I'm nowhere near creative enough to use stencils...I just either use a sniper veil or some grass/pinestraw to break up the outline.
Your rifles look legit, bro. Good job.
That's the Brown I use for the accents. I've never seen a rifle painted solid brown like that, it looks good.
Appreciate the comment jon. That lever gun that you posted is just so wrong its cool. :D
-Jax
Thanks man. I appreciate it! The paint used was Krylon's camouflage paint with fusion (whatever that means). Yeh the stock was black to begin with so I had to paint that as well.
Looking forward to getting the worn look. Never liked a new looking gun. ;)
-Jax
ETA: Might help in answering your question if I tell you the color. It's brown and I am pretty sure in their camo line of paint there is only one shade of that color.
Thanks bud! I know exactly which paint you're talking about.
I actually considered that color quite recently to match my mk18 rail but opted for another one that was a known close match, or so I thought. Not quite the case but it turned out close enough after hazing it with black and OD. :)
Thanks bud! I know exactly which paint you're talking about.
I actually considered that color quite recently to match my mk18 rail but opted for another one that was a known close match, or so I thought. Not quite the case but it turned out close enough after hazing it with black and OD. :)
That's funny you mention that man. That was the reason I used this paint as well. To match DD's RIS II brown. It turned out darker than I expected but I do like it. Guy at the range yesterday said it looked like a hershey bar with an Aimpoint mounted on it!
-Jax
Painted a few more parts on the rifle. Like the way it came out.
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/IMG_20120909_171637.jpg
genofromreno
09-12-12, 03:33
Painted a few more parts on the rifle. Like the way it came out.
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/IMG_20120909_171637.jpg
Great color! Looks good!
Jonconsiglio on my sbr
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/FAD083BB-F1D6-44C8-A81F-F60442A4A0F0-1060-0000012E4EE164B33333.jpg
Great color! Looks good!
Appreciate it man. I go back and forth on whether I like it or not. Its just too new looking but will work on that. ;)
-Jax
genofromreno
09-15-12, 04:32
Appreciate it man. I go back and forth on whether I like it or not. Its just too new looking but will work on that. ;)
-Jax
It was a great color choice and something a little different.
Painted a few more parts on the rifle. Like the way it came out.
http://i907.photobucket.com/albums/ac279/jaxman7/IMG_20120909_171637.jpg
Different. I like it. Nice job!
Thanks for the comments fellas,
-Jax
Figured that I'd try my hand at painting one of my AR's. My buddy was freaking out because I was painting my Micro...haha. Here's a few pics that I took at the half way point. I'll post more once I have better pics.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g407/Denn1911/PaintedAR_zpsd8e8342c.jpg
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g407/Denn1911/PaintedAR2_zpsb840e5f0.jpg
Leonidas24
09-24-12, 22:29
I was admittedly horrified going into this project but something kept pushing me to go ahead and say f*** it and camo up my AR. I'm definitely happy that I did, but will be happier when I can get a coat of better paint on it opposed to the Rustoleum.
http://imageshack.us/a/img585/8664/img2170z.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/585/img2170z.jpg/)
It turned out great.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
Guns-up.50
09-25-12, 10:25
*double post*
Guns-up.50
09-25-12, 10:27
dammit triple post**** sorry delete I hate computers
Guns-up.50
09-25-12, 10:28
Here are some pics of my beat up 10 pounder
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j459/boomeriniraq/029.jpg
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j459/boomeriniraq/047.jpg
Leonidas24,
Excellent job!
-Jax
I was admittedly horrified going into this project but something kept pushing me to go ahead and say f*** it and camo up my AR. I'm definitely happy that I did, but will be happier when I can get a coat of better paint on it opposed to the Rustoleum.
Good looking paint job. What colors did you use?
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7109/7539744108_db14eca283_b.jpg
firepolock
09-27-12, 16:21
First time poster. Sorry for the crappy pic.
Sent from my LG-P506 using Tapatalk 2
Leonidas24
09-27-12, 17:50
Thanks all for the comments.
Good looking paint job. What colors did you use?
Rustoleum camo khaki, brown, and Krylon camo OD. There's still some black anodizing showing through on the rail as well.
Hemoglobin
09-28-12, 15:10
Going to have to get a x300 soon, but other than that... this is how it sits at the moment.
So when you guys are painting your paterns, do you start with the light or dark colors first?
Hemoglobin
09-28-12, 18:59
I start with the light color before the dark stencils. You can see my bc and front sight are new and just have the base coat. Have to make more stencils for the darker shades. Followed by a light overspray style coat from a darker color.
My addition.
Pat Rogers method with predominant greens and some brown to match local area (New England woods).
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u240/Conankills/IMG_8766.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u240/Conankills/IMG_8768.jpg
Not exactly obvious, but enough.
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u240/Conankills/IMG_8769.jpg
You're on point and somewhere there is a rifle pointed right at your noggin, about 7 yards out. :confused:
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u240/Conankills/IMG_8778.jpg
Does this count? :)
What happened? Did you strip the paint off for a new paint job?
Yep! Aervoe is on the way
My addition.
Pat Rogers method with predominant greens and some brown to match local area (New England woods).
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u240/Conankills/IMG_8766.jpg
I agree; a nice scheme for NE.
Is it behind the Monarch?
Guns-up.50
10-02-12, 09:50
So when you guys are painting your paterns, do you start with the light or dark colors first?
I painted the entire rifle tan first, then I filled in spots with green and brown
genofromreno
10-02-12, 10:49
I painted the entire rifle tan first, then I filled in spots with green and brown
Big thumbs up, looks awesome!
I agree; a nice scheme for NE.
Is it behind the Monarch?
If you mean the fern; yup. It's tough to really find a realistic setting for the camo to do its job, and you have to compromise between doing a realistic eval for how it would look in the field and how it looks on a forum in 2D and under different computer screen colors.
So I sort of gave a hint by centering the concealed position on the picture. If you look hard/zoom in you can make out the Aimpoint tube and maybe the compensator below it pointed straight at you.
Either way I think the camo works great - a black rifle would have been more apparent since you'd see a black barrel and black rails and an aimpoint just being hit by sunlight. With the rifle colored there is more of a doubt in your mind when first seeing it, enough to make you dead meat if you walked in on that ambush, hypothetically speaking.
JohnVassilakos
10-02-12, 17:37
If you mean the fern; yup. It's tough to really find a realistic setting for the camo to do its job, and you have to compromise between doing a realistic eval for how it would look in the field and how it looks on a forum in 2D and under different computer screen colors.
So I sort of gave a hint by centering the concealed position on the picture. If you look hard/zoom in you can make out the Aimpoint tube and maybe the compensator below it pointed straight at you.
Either way I think the camo works great - a black rifle would have been more apparent since you'd see a black barrel and black rails and an aimpoint just being hit by sunlight. With the rifle colored there is more of a doubt in your mind when first seeing it, enough to make you dead meat if you walked in on that ambush, hypothetically speaking.
I honestly couldn't find it (after looking for two-three minutes) before you mentioned the location....even after you mentioned where it was it still took me almost 15 seconds to find it!
Well done!
I've always wanted to paint my AR but I haven't summed up the courage to paint a $1500 hunk of metal... same reason I can't sum up the courage to stipple a $500 Glock...
In any case here is my AR in its unpainted glory...
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Roecar/Roecar%20Tactical%20Gear/IMG_4449.jpg
This is how I'd like to paint it. I did have the courage to paint my old airsoft rifle.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Roecar/Roecar%20Tactical%20Gear/IMG_4458.jpg
Just paint it bud. You can always take it off if you don't like it. You're version looks better anyway. It's got the Aimpoint.;)
-Jax
I've always wanted to paint my AR but I haven't summed up the courage to paint a $1500 hunk of metal... same reason I can't sum up the courage to stipple a $500 Glock...
In any case here is my AR in its unpainted glory...
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Roecar/Roecar%20Tactical%20Gear/IMG_4449.jpg
This is how I'd like to paint it. I did have the courage to paint my old airsoft rifle.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Roecar/Roecar%20Tactical%20Gear/IMG_4458.jpg
I painted my rifle and pistol (stippled the pistol too) not to make it look purdy or super cool, but because black is indeed a readily discernible color in the daytime when against just about any backdrop or foreground.
I would rather be practical in how I customize my gear, i.e.: stipple the grip and other parts on the M&P because it does enhance grip, color both because of the environment that I will be in if stupid happens, or if you look, I cut off half of the AFG because I wasn't using the back half and it was the heaviest part of it.
Cool looks are a far away consideration for me regarding a weapon that can ensure my survival in a scenario where I and others will rely on it.
Some people paint them to look special, but hey, it's their boomstick.
If you do paint it, with Aervoe for example, try to leave any rubber parts unpainted since it will become a sticky mess until it dries a week later. Aervoe spray paint dries the more heat is radiated on it, so it takes about 1 hour of direct sunlight for the paint to have little to no tac - not so when it comes to rubber.
Black is a terrible color to have in an arid environment as you said. It just so happens that the pattern I'd like to use looks great and blends well in my locale.
Painting is less invasive and somewhat reversible. I'm trying to get as comfortable before doing it to my rifle. As for stippling I'm more inclined to have a professional do it since damaging the frame is permanent.
I'll look into the Aervoe paint.
Guns-up.50
10-03-12, 16:58
Black is a terrible color to have in an arid environment as you said. It just so happens that the pattern I'd like to use looks great and blends well in my locale.
Painting is less invasive and somewhat reversible. I'm trying to get as comfortable before doing it to my rifle. As for stippling I'm more inclined to have a professional do it since damaging the frame is permanent.
I'll look into the Aervoe paint.
You will like it painted especially when it wears off in areas!
Just laid the aervoe down with homemade stencils. Haven't yet dusted over with OD.
Constructive criticism anyone? I wanna make sure accents are good before I dust over the entire SBR
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/Custom%20paint/2DA45D65-44F1-4E18-8F06-6670F6FE1984-5412-00000248F5448D61.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/Custom%20paint/FD27A41D-C071-46C7-B203-564D5890E1A0-5412-00000248EF0C0F63.jpg
I'd go with it as is, or with a matte clear coat. Dusting is overdone, IMO, and will detract from the contrast necessary for a disruptive pattern to work well.
Just laid the aervoe down with homemade stencils. Haven't yet dusted over with OD.
Constructive criticism anyone? I wanna make sure accents are good before I dust over the entire SBR
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/Custom%20paint/2DA45D65-44F1-4E18-8F06-6670F6FE1984-5412-00000248F5448D61.jpg
I'd go with it as is, or with a matte clear coat. Dusting is overdone, IMO, and will detract from the contrast necessary for a disruptive pattern to work well.
Agree, semi-gloss or dullcoat.
Looks nice BTW.
Hemoglobin
10-05-12, 13:50
It does look good. You could replicate your pattern on a show box lid or something. Dust it and see which pattern you like better for your area.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd go with it as is, or with a matte clear coat. Dusting is overdone, IMO, and will detract from the contrast necessary for a disruptive pattern to work well.
Just spoke with Jon and he echos that. Thanks for the tip though, definitely gonna skip the dusting.
Agree, semi-gloss or dullcoat.
Looks nice BTW.
Thank you
It does look good. You could replicate your pattern on a show box lid or something. Dust it and see which pattern you like better for your area.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am going to add some more accents to the rail, and a few other spots. After looking at other patterns, the accents seem to be a little more dense.
Brian Brazier
10-05-12, 15:44
Not an AR but still a battle rifle, here is my Mosin Nagant, I used krylon Black, OD, and Kahki.
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/bbrazierkendo/DSCN0083.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/bbrazierkendo/DSCN0084.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/bbrazierkendo/DSCN0085.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/bbrazierkendo/DSCN0086.jpg
http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t97/bbrazierkendo/DSCN0087.jpg
More accents added, looking much better I think!
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/D4E6D7CA-68BC-407A-8FEA-208EB2C65301-6162-00000287AF9FC769.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/9AA6C47B-A440-446B-8ED4-FFCE3784E45D-6162-00000287867FA504.jpg
More accents added, looking much better I think!
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/D4E6D7CA-68BC-407A-8FEA-208EB2C65301-6162-00000287AF9FC769.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/9AA6C47B-A440-446B-8ED4-FFCE3784E45D-6162-00000287867FA504.jpg
I like it!
Ignorant question alert!...What's the benefit to Aervoe over plain ole rattle can?
I like it!
Ignorant question alert!...What's the benefit to Aervoe over plain ole rattle can?
Aervoe claims (and I can't contradict this) that their colors are true to military spec. Seems true to my untrained eye. Also, their color variations provide a large palette for mixing and (mis)matching.
My personal experience is that their paints hold up to bumps and scratches better than Rustoleum or Krylon, but surface prep has a greater impact on longevity than anything else. Light sanding and a good primer, formulated for the surface (e.g., metal or plastic), help a lot. Cleaning and degreasing are pretty essential as well.
My biggest problem with Aervoe is that it is not available where I live, so I have to order it. My second biggest problem is that I occasionally get a bad can (almost always Field Drab), which means I have to reorder and eat the loss.
BattleReady
10-06-12, 03:33
One by ThunderBolt
http://www.m4carbine.net/picture.php?albumid=566&pictureid=2788
genofromreno
10-06-12, 04:19
Aervoe claims (and I can't contradict this) that their colors are true to military spec. Seems true to my untrained eye. Also, their color variations provide a large palette for mixing and (mis)matching.
My personal experience is that their paints hold up to bumps and scratches better than Rustoleum or Krylon, but surface prep has a greater impact on longevity than anything else. Light sanding and a good primer, formulated for the surface (e.g., metal or plastic), help a lot. Cleaning and degreasing are pretty essential as well.
My biggest problem with Aervoe is that it is not available where I live, so I have to order it. My second biggest problem is that I occasionally get a bad can (almost always Field Drab), which means I have to reorder and eat the loss.
Amicus, thanks for the write up, very helpful. I'm in Afghanistan right now but will heading home for leave in while, at that time I'll be painting one of my personally owned carbines for the first time. I like the used, worn look that rattle cans eventually give off. Will Aervoe eventually after use offer the same desired worn look or should I just stick to the Rustoleum? Thanks in adavance, Geno
Aervoe claims (and I can't contradict this) that their colors are true to military spec. Seems true to my untrained eye. Also, their color variations provide a large palette for mixing and (mis)matching.
My personal experience is that their paints hold up to bumps and scratches better than Rustoleum or Krylon, but surface prep has a greater impact on longevity than anything else. Light sanding and a good primer, formulated for the surface (e.g., metal or plastic), help a lot. Cleaning and degreasing are pretty essential as well.
My biggest problem with Aervoe is that it is not available where I live, so I have to order it. My second biggest problem is that I occasionally get a bad can (almost always Field Drab), which means I have to reorder and eat the loss.
Agree on all fronts. I had to order my paint from DSG online.
I also got a bad can...light coyote came out almost as a light pink.
jonconsiglio
10-06-12, 11:55
Double post
jonconsiglio
10-06-12, 11:56
Agree on all fronts. I had to order my paint from DSG online.
I also got a bad can...light coyote came out almost as a light pink.
That's how Light Coyote looks, it doesn't really match the lid. Honestly, I doubt you were all that upset when you found it to have a pink tint. I can only machine the excitement when you figured you could use the excuse that you "thought" it was light coyote. :D
As asked earlier, the benefit to Aervoe isn't just being true(r) to spec, but it's durability. Once it cures, the stuff is pretty solid. I've been carrying my M&P for 5 or 6 months daily, with daily dry fire and live fire a couple times a week. Hardly any wear and my holsters vary from leather to Kydex.
Also, Aervoe will continue to appear matte while I've seen Krylon may take on a shine. I'd imagine Krylon is non/reflective to IR just like Aervoe.
The durability is quite noticeable. This can easily be fixed with Krylon by adding that airbrush attachment, but Aervoe has a finer mist that will lay down much lighter and consistent.
Krylon is good stuff. Aervoe just happens to be better.
That's how Light Coyote looks, it doesn't really match the lid. Honestly, I doubt you were all that upset when you found it to have a pink tint. I can only machine the excitement when you figured you could use the excuse that you "thought" it was light coyote. :D
I was just upset it wasn't glitter-infused :haha:
In the light:
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/91E3F086-2D3A-44D4-85F2-9E2741D1510C-7370-000002EA8A512ABB.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/9F24AA80-BCB0-491C-945A-E6014A8D5758-7370-000002EA8201407E.jpg
Amicus, thanks for the write up, very helpful. I'm in Afghanistan right now but will heading home for leave in while, at that time I'll be painting one of my personally owned carbines for the first time. I like the used, worn look that rattle cans eventually give off. Will Aervoe eventually after use offer the same desired worn look or should I just stick to the Rustoleum? Thanks in adavance, Geno
Geno,
"Wear" depends more on how you paint than the paint itself, or do you mean simulating hard use? Not really sure what you mean here. I suggests taking this off the "party line.". I'm sending you an email.
I was just upset it wasn't glitter-infused :haha:
One word for mag enhancement: rhinestones.
One word for mag enhancement: rhinestones.
Fabuloussssss
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/Stuff/haters_gonna_hate3.jpg
jonconsiglio
10-06-12, 13:47
Amicus, thanks for the write up, very helpful. I'm in Afghanistan right now but will heading home for leave in while, at that time I'll be painting one of my personally owned carbines for the first time. I like the used, worn look that rattle cans eventually give off. Will Aervoe eventually after use offer the same desired worn look or should I just stick to the Rustoleum? Thanks in adavance, Geno
Yes, it'll give the same look. It'll wear harder than Krylon or Rustoleum, but it'll wear just like the others. The nice part about it is that it won't get as shiny as the others, even as it wears through. My M&P that I've been carrying for almost 6 months is wearing.
I've painted eight rifles, three handguns, two suppressors and a handful of mags with Aervoe now and I won't use anything else. If you're a member on Lightfighter, there's a handful of pics of worn rifles painted with Aervoe, one by Pat Rogers that he used to show how to paint the rifles then after a couple years of classes.
jonconsiglio
10-06-12, 13:48
Fabuloussssss
That's great!
genofromreno
10-06-12, 16:58
Amicus and jonconsiglio, thank you both for all the info and helping to point me in the right direction with this project. Geno
Wormydog1724
10-07-12, 15:30
Awhile back I switched my hunting AR from 5.56 to 6.8.
This year Oklahoma passed the Landowner's Hunting Freedom Act which allows landowners and their guests to hunt with suppressors starting 11-1-12. I have a 5.56 suppressor and am currently waiting on a SDN-6. So I decided to build my 5.56 hunting AR back, kinda.
When I switched from 5.56 to 6.8, all I swapped was the barrel amd bolt, So I had a spare 5.56 barrel. I always keep my spare parts and when I put a Troy Alpha rail on my NC-22 .22lr upper, I had a spare handguard, a Nordic Components rifle length handguard. So I ordered a blem upper from BCM, a low pro gas block, and I had an extra gas tube. I got the wild idea to paint the upper and this is the results.
It has a TR24 on it now, will be ordering another TR20 for it.
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp247/wormydog1724/IMG_0075_zps1b6017f6.jpg
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp247/wormydog1724/IMG_0076_zpse42ba02f.jpg
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp247/wormydog1724/IMG_0077_zps0e0cc1b4.jpg
I have a lower I might paint to match, but I'm not too concerned with it.
some pics out in nature today
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/10-7%20Range/IMG_355111.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/IMG_3548.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/IMG_3549.jpg
ICANHITHIMMAN
10-07-12, 19:19
some pics out in nature today
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/10-7%20Range/IMG_355111.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/IMG_3548.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/IMG_3549.jpg
U look like an 1st LT i Knew named Boring good pics man
U look like an 1st LT i Knew named Boring good pics man
Thanks man
Dudes name was Boring? Really?
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/IMG_3532.jpg
jonconsiglio
10-07-12, 20:04
Edit - I think that was twice in one thread I beat up on Matt. Sorry 'bout that...
jonconsiglio
10-07-12, 21:34
I'm lost
I'll PM you in the morning buddy. I was making a stupid joke but realized I already had earlier and didn't want you to take it wrong...
Do you have any closer pics of the receiver and handguard under good lighting? It looks much better than before, and it wasn't bad to begin with.
Has it hardened up a bit? How do you like the Aervoe compared to Krylon?
I'll PM you in the morning buddy. I was making a stupid joke but realized I already had earlier and didn't want you to take it wrong...
Do you have any closer pics of the receiver and handguard under good lighting? It looks much better than before, and it wasn't bad to begin with.
Has it hardened up a bit? How do you like the Aervoe compared to Krylon?
Haha no worries man...pull no punches!
I'll get some more tomorrow, Homeland is about to be on and I'm glued to the TV.
It's hardened up a ton and is the finish I remember from yours. I'll have to get a picture of the shell deflector too...after a couple hundred rounds today there's barely a scratch on it. Aervoe definitely puts Krylon/Rustoluem/etc to shame IMO.
Magic_Salad0892
10-08-12, 06:11
some pics out in nature today
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/10-7%20Range/IMG_355111.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/IMG_3548.jpg
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/IMG_3549.jpg
That camo is gnarly, man. I dig it. It looks like MultiCam but more subtle.
Do you have any closer pics of the receiver and handguard under good lighting? It looks much better than before, and it wasn't bad to begin with.
Has it hardened up a bit? How do you like the Aervoe compared to Krylon?
As promised...closeups of receiver under spotlight.
Note shell deflector after 200 rounds
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/Custom%20paint/5F341465-57B8-4A58-940B-21CB33AD6CA3-10662-000003F05123752C.jpg
Port side
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/Custom%20paint/AB124FE3-850F-4FCF-96C6-F42BA5E907CA-10662-000003F049B6B360.jpg
That camo is gnarly, man. I dig it. It looks like MultiCam but more subtle.
Thanks Magic. Aervoe definitely makes the job easier.
Munch,
So what colors did you use for this? You didn't use that light coyote right? Or is that what the lighter colors are?
If I ever summon the courage to do it, I'll probably use the same color scheme...although I like a little more "blurred" or "ATACS-like" pattern when it comes to camo on rifles...
Also, how does the Aervoe hold up to sweat when you get a cheeweld on the stock? Rub off at all? (Maybe Jon can best answer this since we both deal with the same TX heat)
Munch,
So what colors did you use for this? You didn't use that light coyote right? Or is that what the lighter colors are?
If I ever summon the courage to do it, I'll probably use the same color scheme...although I like a little more "blurred" or "ATACS-like" pattern when it comes to camo on rifles...
Also, how does the Aervoe hold up to sweat when you get a cheeweld on the stock? Rub off at all? (Maybe Jon can best answer this since we both deal with the same TX heat)
I used Sand as a base, Dark Green for broad strips, OD/Field Drab for dusting, and Highland Brown/Sand/Dark Green for accents. I'll get some pics of the cans/code #s when I get home.
No wear at all on stock after yesterday but it wasn't hot at all (55F). I was about 5 days post shave and didn't rub anything off the stock.
jonconsiglio
10-08-12, 10:44
Looks great. I didn't go as heavy on the accents on my 14.5" as I did SOWT's 700. I'll go heavier on the next one in a few months. This is right after I painted it, basically the day I got your M2, Munch. The shell deflector on mine now looks little different than yours. Aervoe holds up well. my grip is pretty worn on the backstrap now along with the bolt catch and some edges. Not bad at all.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8301/7838944328_23faf138c9_b.jpg
For reference, here's my M&P after 5 months of daily carry in both kydex and leather. The slide was Duracoated FDE under the Aervoe and the wear on the rails is from the Surefire.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8034/7907592162_161f586573_b.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8447/7907592252_d698aef783_b.jpg
I used Sand as a base, Dark Green for broad strips, OD/Field Drab for dusting, and Highland Brown/Sand/Dark Green for accents. I'll get some pics of the cans/code #s when I get home.
No wear at all on stock after yesterday but it wasn't hot at all (55F). I was about 5 days post shave and didn't rub anything off the stock.
Thanks Munch.
I was at a Falla carbine course in July where it was about 100 degrees the entire weekend. One of the guys had a painted gun (pretty sure was just krylon) and halfway through the first day had a dark green smear across his face lol so that's why I was wondering about how it held up to sweat...
Thanks Munch.
I was at a Falla carbine course in July where it was about 100 degrees the entire weekend. One of the guys had a painted gun (pretty sure was just krylon) and halfway through the first day had a dark green smear across his face lol so that's why I was wondering about how it held up to sweat...
Wow that's bad! Mine wore kinda quick but I never had that kind of issue, maybe I've never sweated on my gun that much though? I did use a Kyrlon matte clear coat over the paint before, maybe that helped to minimize wear?
Not exactly a Picasso... Lol! Just got tired of looking at the black barrel and Aimpoint. Hit them with Aervoe - Coyote on the bbl and Highland on the optic.
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz209/El_CidAF_ResQ/photo-41.jpg
jonconsiglio
10-08-12, 21:30
Not exactly a Picasso... Lol! Just got tired of looking at the black barrel and Aimpoint. Hit them with Aervoe - Coyote on the bbl and Highland on the optic.
Did you paint anything but the barrel with Coyote? If not, that color appears to mate well with Magpul FDE. I have Light Coyote and Highland, but no Coyote.
Do you have any pics in better light, maybe outdoors?
Did you paint anything but the barrel with Coyote? If not, that color appears to mate well with Magpul FDE. I have Light Coyote and Highland, but no Coyote.
Do you have any pics in better light, maybe outdoors?
I did only use it on the bbl/FSB. And yes, it really does match the Magpul furniture. I'll try to get a pic with better lighting.
ETA: it's not a perfect match but it is very close. The delta ring and bbl are both coyote.
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz209/El_CidAF_ResQ/photo-42.jpg
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz209/El_CidAF_ResQ/photo-43.jpg
This one is up hunting in Medicine Bow NF in WY. Had a photo op as I was catching my breath. Here's my Mega,
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/Mobile%20Uploads/Resampled_2012-10-04_11-48-45_128.jpg
And last night out deer hunting I got this Muley. I'm really impressed with how the camo pattern works in the field. You can really see the shadow in the sunshade and the lense of the PA Micro but I like it.
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx320/sgtbutt/Mobile%20Uploads/Resampled_2012-10-10_17-53-57_661.jpg
Doc. Holiday
10-11-12, 10:55
Nice! I'm really diggin your paint job!
Nice! I'm really diggin your paint job!
Thanks, probably should hit it with some green to tone down the tan for up in threw mountains but out works decently well in the prairie.
Thanks, probably should hit it with some green to tone down the tan for up in threw mountains but out works decently well in the prairie.
I don't think the deer will care :p
Is that .308?
Doc. Holiday
10-11-12, 16:09
I don't think the deer will care :p
Is that .308?
Haha I was just about to type the same thing.
jonconsiglio
10-11-12, 17:42
I did only use it on the bbl/FSB. And yes, it really does match the Magpul furniture. I'll try to get a pic with better lighting.
ETA: it's not a perfect match but it is very close. The delta ring and bbl are both coyote.
That's a much better match than I expected. The Light Coyote and Sand I have are as close as I get, and they're pretty far off obviously.
Thanks for the updated pics.
I don't think the deer will care :p
Is that .308?
I damn near walked onto the Muley, whether he knew I was there or not he didn't seem to concerned till I dropped him. Yes it's a 308. I've got a build thread I did up for it on here with all the details. I just love the 308 caliber. Took my Pronghorn 2 years ago with my 700 bolt gun and now my Muley with the AR. Both were 165 SPBTs. Will be taking it out a few more times this month to try and see if I can't tag out on Elk.
As far as the color, it works nice enough, it's not like I'm using in a sniper role. I care more about the paint as more functional coating then anything though. Painted to match the bolt gun since the scope pulls double duty.
BCM 14.5" W/Aimpoint PRO and midlength C4 rail.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh160/firefox249/IMG_0453_zps90bcb5ef.jpg
jonconsiglio
10-14-12, 13:46
Firefox, that's a great setup and the paint looks good. I don't understand why I see so many not painting the BCM logo, though. Not a bad thing, I'm just curious as to why.
What paint did you use?
Firefox, that's a great setup and the paint looks good. I don't understand why I see so many not painting the BCM logo, though. Not a bad thing, I'm just curious as to why.
What paint did you use?
Jonconsiglio: I decided not to paint the BCM logo so that in the event I sell my rifle later, I can prove the upper was actually made by Bravo Company. Just a quick and easy way for the rifle to be identified.
As for the paint, I actually just used Rustoleum's cammo series. I first coated the entire gun in the tan/khaki color then after it dried, hit it with the brown/CB by spraying lightly across the rifle. I'm very happy with how it turned out :)
Wormydog1724
10-14-12, 15:46
All of these look great!
I'd like to see more of these paint jobs 'in the wild'. My concern with the 'patterns' is that the outline of the AR really isn't broken up well enough. A black rifle isn't as bad as a brownish-tan blob I suppose, but more contrast from dark to light being next to each other may help. Or it may not. ATACs seems to work well enough. Getting this down to a science that can be replicated would be nice.
BCM 14.5" W/Aimpoint PRO and midlength C4 rail.
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh160/firefox249/IMG_0453_zps90bcb5ef.jpg
So ru glad I talked you into the C4 rail?
Added SOPMOD and TD stubby
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/0ED4AF9F-913B-458C-9CC3-33630296159B-194-000000075798CAD0.jpg
4DAIVI PAI2K5
10-15-12, 09:57
Added SOPMOD and TD stubby
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t294/myersma2/SBR/0ED4AF9F-913B-458C-9CC3-33630296159B-194-000000075798CAD0.jpg
That looks wonderful
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