New Guy Build Advice Needed

[GAU8A]

Hello everyone,

I have been reading the forum for a while now and have learned a lot. I have started building my own AR-15 (with most parts being used based on the user experiences on this forum) and have a couple questions. The rifle will be used for fun on the range. So far, I have acquired all the parts for my lower receiver with the exception of the stock. Here is my build thus far:

Noveske stripped lower
G & R Tactical LPK (including Magpul Enhanced Trigger Guard)
B.A.D. A.S.S. (Ambi fire selector)
Geissele SSA Trigger
Hogue Pistol Grip
Magpul ACS Stock (this is what I am leaning towards)
H Buffer, Spring, Ext. tube, QD endplate purchased from Noveske

The big question is what direction I go with the upper? I definitely want Noveske for the quality and the fact that they are so nice to work with. I am somewhat sure I want a 14.5" barrel with pinned vortex suppressor. I want to run an Eotech, and therefore, I want flip-up front sights. I won't be running any lasers or flashlights on the front, so extra rails are not necessary. In a perfect world, I would have them custom build a 14.5" barrel using a gas block with a picatinny rail for the sight. Then I could use some Magpul MOE handguards and call it good.

How far off in left field am I regarding the upper?? any advice and suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks, and glad to be here!

[devilsdeeds]

That all sounds fine, but I would suggest going midlength and in a lot peoples opinions theres no better 14.5" mid than the one made by BCM. Check out the T&E's on here. I would suggest this upper config http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-14-5-Mid-Length-Upper-Receiver-VTAC-TRX-p/bcm-urg-mid-14%20vtactrx11.htm , whether you build or buy it(BCM or Noveske) since Magpul hasn't released there midlength MOE handguards yet.

T&E reports:
http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=56626

http://m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=60351

[Failure2Stop]

I highly recommend getting a long rail, in the 11 to 12 inch category and stickin on a simple fixed frontsight. There is no good reason to have your front folded down, and lots of good reasons to have it up. The longer rail will let you get into a better stance and be more usable off barricades, and give you more options for mounting lights, slings, and bipods.

I generally recommend against pinned and welded barrels for a first AR, but going with a good middie 14.5 is hard to argue against. Your biggest hurdle will be in realizing that you don't know what you will like, and listening to those that have tread the path will save you lots of frustration and $$.

[GAU8A]

I highly recommend getting a long rail, in the 11 to 12 inch category and stickin on a simple fixed frontsight. There is no good reason to have your front folded down, and lots of good reasons to
have it up. The longer rail will let you get into a better stance and be more usable off barricades, and give you more options for mounting lights, slings, and bipods.

I generally recommend against pinned and welded barrels for a first AR, but going with a good middie 14.5 is hard to argue against. Your biggest hurdle will be in realizing that you don't know what you will like, and listening to those that have tread the path will save you lots of frustration and $$.

Thank you for the reply. Forgive my ignorance, but will the front sight not interfere with an Eotech if it is up? Also, why do you recommend against pinned and welded barrels for a first AR? I didn't mention that I owned a 16" middie Bushmaster about 5 years ago. So I have some very limited experience as a point of reference. Finally, does knowing that I don't plan on mounting lights or lasers change your idea that I should have a longer rail system??

thanks again.

[HuttoAg96]

GAU8A,

You might end up wanting to put a compensator on the barrel, which is why you wouldn't want the flash hider pinned and welded.

As for the EOTech, get a riser for it so that you have a bottom 1/3 cowitness. I have that setup on my rifle and you look "over the sights" through the EOTech. Adjust your cheek weld to look through the lower 1/3, and you have an absolute cowitness with your sights (and usable sights without any adjustments in case your optic goes down).