View Full Version : 10.3/10.5 inch barrels
Since BCM does not make a 10.3/10.5 inch barrel, which brands would be a good choice for this length barrel? I have 2 DD CHF barrels, one Colt and one WOA. I am planning to run this build 90% of the time with a suppressor.
Robb Jensen
09-22-10, 06:00
Since BCM does not make a 10.3/10.5 inch barrel, which brands would be a good choice for this length barrel? I have 2 DD CHF barrels, one Colt and one WOA. I am planning to run this build 90% of the time with a suppressor.
I'd recommend a Colt, Noveske or Daniel Defense.
I'd recommend a Colt, Noveske or Daniel Defense.
Agreed.
If you're planning on mounting a suppressor and want to go 10.3" make sure that your planned setup is compatible, and that it works with the FSB or gas block you've chosen.
I am planning on a 10 inch DD mk18 rail with a gas block and an AAC suppressor but I'm not sure what model. I have been leaning toward the DD barrel but only because I have 2 of them already. I'm guessing all of the better barrels mentioned will have the same sized gas port.
crowkiller
09-22-10, 07:28
http://www.centurionarms.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_images.tpl&product_id=45&category_id=19&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=133
Robb Jensen
09-22-10, 09:04
I am planning on a 10 inch DD mk18 rail with a gas block and an AAC suppressor but I'm not sure what model. I have been leaning toward the DD barrel but only because I have 2 of them already. I'm guessing all of the better barrels mentioned will have the same sized gas port.
The 10.3" DD will be a tad too short for using a AAC M4-2000. A 10.5" barrel will be just right.
http://www.centurionarms.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_images.tpl&product_id=45&category_id=19&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=133
Great products.
If its a dedicated, full time suppressed weapon buy a 16" barrel from ADCO and have him cut it to 10.5" for the smaller gas port size.
This is my plan anywho after emailing him.
Why do that when there are other options? Just curious? if it were me I would just go with a BCM 11.5".
If its a dedicated, full time suppressed weapon buy a 16" barrel from ADCO and have him cut it to 10.5" for the smaller gas port size.
This is my plan anywho after emailing him.
Why do that when there are other options? Just curious? if it were me I would just go with a BCM 11.5".
Please elaborate...I was just kinda stuck on the 10.3/10.5. I just want the gun to be short enough with the suppressor attached.
If its a dedicated, full time suppressed weapon buy a 16" barrel from ADCO and have him cut it to 10.5" for the smaller gas port size.
This is my plan anywho after emailing him.
I kinda want the best of both worlds. I want it to run without the suppressor too.
variablebinary
09-24-10, 06:54
Since BCM does not make a 10.3/10.5 inch barrel, which brands would be a good choice for this length barrel? I have 2 DD CHF barrels, one Colt and one WOA. I am planning to run this build 90% of the time with a suppressor.
LMT 10.5" would be my first choice
Why do that when there are other options? Just curious? if it were me I would just go with a BCM 11.5".
Two reason's to go dedicated...
1. Theres no benefit to shooting unsupressed.
2. An SBR tuned to run with a suppressor is more reliable and less prone to break parts than one that isn't.
Depending on end use, there are lots of reasons to go unsuppressed. This is often one of the difficult things to explain to vendors and manufacturers when discussing the commercial market especially.
While a SWAT team may always run their guns suppressed a commercial end-user may find many circumstances in which he wouldn't want or need the can. All one needs to do is compare sales of cans like the G5 and various AAC products with QD mounts to their direct-thread cans in the commercial market. Having the ability to easily add or remove the can is generally very important to most non-LE civilian buyers, or anyone making a private purchase for that matter.
This is, of course, the genius of the Switchblock. Rather than argue about whether or not a gun should be able to run with or without a can, or why anyone would want to do one or the other, Noveske realized the desire in the marketplace to be able to do both and they created a part to fill that void in the market. Smart guys.
Personally I think cans are probably one of the single biggest ways to waste money for the commercial buyer, but if you are going to buy one, I suggest finding a way to get the gun to run both with and without the can, or have two guns one suppressed and one non. If you're like me the utterly useless suppressed gun will almost never leave the house.
to the OP, if you're going to be running with and without the can, I'd suggest this (http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=lslp-556-sb&cat=103&page=1&search=&since=&status=). note the FH on the end of the barrel. If I was starting over today with the SBR/can thing I'd have a hard time buying anything other than this. Although another option that might be cool is to hog out the slot needed for the Switchblock on a Troy VTAC tube...
http://noveskerifleworks.com/imimg/lslp-556-sb_1d.jpg
geezerbutler
09-24-10, 11:55
I shot my Noveske 10.5 Yesterday on an M16A1 FA lower.
I ran it with and without the AAC M42000 and it functioned flawlessly.
There's just something about this Noveske upper that makes me prefer it over my Colt 6933 - 11.5".
I have the AAC Brakeout and an Eotech XPS on the Noveske.
___I forgot to give a shout out to Rob @ Virginia Arms in earlier threads for putting the Brakeout on for me.
VA had quick service and great installation and shipping costs -end Virigna Arms plug______but seriously, I would use them again:D
I know that the Brakeout makes muzzle rise practically nonexistent and fat chicks love the fireball coming out the business end.
I would by another Noveske SBR upper in a second.
The switch block is interesting, but I've just never had a problem with any of my guns running suppressed so I hate to spend the extra $$ on a solution to a problem Ihave not had on my guns.
Having said that, If I came across a good deal on a used Noveske with the switchblock, I wouldn't turn it down.
Dear Heavens I don't know what the hell the deal is with Crapcasa, but it looks like these photos were taken with a Sony Mavica on a 1.44 Floppy. So Surry...Lo Siento Mucho
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JAPdm6GhhJM/TJzIhur_ZNI/AAAAAAAABrs/Mteo07eQaeQ/s800/IMG_3680.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JAPdm6GhhJM/TJzIngoenEI/AAAAAAAABrw/AdkLNJC7r0o/s800/IMG_3691.jpg
Robb Jensen
09-24-10, 14:23
I shot my Noveske 10.5 Yesterday on an M16A1 FA lower.
I ran it with and without the AAC M42000 and it functioned flawlessly.
There's just something about this Noveske upper that makes me prefer it over my Colt 6933 - 11.5".
I have the AAC Brakeout and an Eotech XPS on the Noveske.
___I forgot to give a shout out to Robb @ Virginia Arms in earlier threads for putting the Brakeout on for me.
VA had quick service and great installation and shipping costs -end Virgina Arms plug______but seriously, I would use them again:D
I know that the Brakeout makes muzzle rise practically nonexistent and fat chicks love the fireball coming out the business end.
I would by another Noveske SBR upper in a second.
The switch block is interesting, but I've just never had a problem with any of my guns running suppressed so I hate to spend the extra $$ on a solution to a problem Ihave not had on my guns.
Having said that, If I came across a good deal on a used Noveske with the switchblock, I wouldn't turn it down.
Dear Heavens I don't know what the hell the deal is with Crapcasa, but it looks like these photos were taken with a Sony Mavica on a 1.44 Floppy. So Surry...Lo Siento Mucho
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JAPdm6GhhJM/TJzIhur_ZNI/AAAAAAAABrs/Mteo07eQaeQ/s800/IMG_3680.jpg
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_JAPdm6GhhJM/TJzIngoenEI/AAAAAAAABrw/AdkLNJC7r0o/s800/IMG_3691.jpg
Thanks. That's some funny stuff right there!
The switch block is interesting, but I've just never had a problem with any of my guns running suppressed so I hate to spend the extra $$ on a solution to a problem Ihave not had on my guns.
I agree that an AR can run with just a silencer added. It is perfectly fair to do the cost/benefit for your application.
The decrease in recoil and increase in muzzle control is very noticeable with a properly tuned gas system and silencer.
I am not talking about it being dedicated. I am talking about cutting down a 16" barrel. I run my SBR suppressed almost all the time. However, correct me if I am wrong. Running any AR suppressed actually stresses the weapon more due to excess back pressure, correct?
Two reason's to go dedicated...
1. Theres no benefit to shooting unsupressed.
2. An SBR tuned to run with a suppressor is more reliable and less prone to break parts than one that isn't.
I find that 11.5" is a happy compromise. IIRC 10.5" is about the lowest you can go and still get reliable fragmentation and reliability. With an 11.5" you get a little more Mv, plus reliability and I dare to say that most people won't notice the additional inch.
Most women won't notice it either. :p
Please elaborate...I was just kinda stuck on the 10.3/10.5. I just want the gun to be short enough with the suppressor attached.
The main reason for a can with me is the blast of an SBR (especially with an AAC Brake to save some of the blast baffle). Without it its just murder shooting under the awning at the range.
And Iraqgunz you are probably right with the 11.5". In fact I may very well go that route, although the Noveske 10.5" Switchblock upper is pure sex too, just its another $1500 on top of a $1100 can with the tax stamp.
I built my SBR for just under 1500.00 and it has everything I need on it.
The main reason for a can with me is the blast of an SBR (especially with an AAC Brake to save some of the blast baffle). Without it its just murder shooting under the awning at the range.
And Iraqgunz you are probably right with the 11.5". In fact I may very well go that route, although the Noveske 10.5" Switchblock upper is pure sex too, just its another $1500 on top of a $1100 can with the tax stamp.
I built my SBR for just under 1500.00 and it has everything I need on it.
Thats where I have the problem, deciding between need and want:o
My SBR has a DD lite rail (10"), Magpul UBR, TD pistol grip, BCM barrel, upper and lower, charging handle and BCG.
Thats where I have the problem, deciding between need and want:o
Just to clarify, my intentions for this rifle is to shoot steel at my house. I have to run it suppressed all the time because my house is on the boundry line of a town where you can't shoot. Every time I shoot, someone calls the police and they come out and realize it is not their jurisdiction. I want to have this rifle to run unsuppressed because if I'm at a class, a high round count with an attached suppressor is going too dirty the gun up quickly.
You can't go wrong with a BCM 11.5" build in my opinion. I haven't cleaned my SBR (we have been out shooting 3 times in the last 45 days or so.) and it is still running good. I used this upper.
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-BFH-11-5-Carbine-Upper-Receiver-Group-p/bcm-urg-11%20bfh.htm
Robb at Virginia Arms cut the front sight base down so the rail would cover it.
I used a BCM BCG and initially had a BCM handle on it. I swapped over to the new updated PRI latch. You can see a current picture of it in the thread about 10.5/10.3 Inch Barrels here in the NFA section.
Just to clarify, my intentions for this rifle is to shoot steel at my house. I have to run it suppressed all the time because my house is on the boundry line of a town where you can't shoot. Every time I shoot, someone calls the police and they come out and realize it is not their jurisdiction. I want to have this rifle to run unsuppressed because if I'm at a class, a high round count with an attached suppressor is going too dirty the gun up quickly.
http://www.specializedarmament.com/products/LE6921_Operator_Suppressed-918-2.html
IG what can are you using?
AAC M4-2000.
IG what can are you using?
Would you mind taking a measurement for me? I'm looking for the distance from the top, front edge of the upper receiver, where the gas tube comes out, to the back side of the suppressor when mounted.
According to my eyeball. It was 10.75" inches.
Would you mind taking a measurement for me? I'm looking for the distance from the top, front edge of the upper receiver, where the gas tube comes out, to the back side of the suppressor when mounted.
sandsunsurf
09-30-10, 17:10
Personally I think cans are probably one of the single biggest ways to waste money for the commercial buyer, but if you are going to buy one, I suggest finding a way to get the gun to run both with and without the can, or have two guns one suppressed and one non. If you're like me the utterly useless suppressed gun will almost never leave the house.
Disclaimer: Rob, I know you are a knowledgable and respected person on this forum, and I'm a newbie, so this is not an attack of any sort- I'm always smiling and just like hearing different opinions. :) And I don't mean to hijack the thread- I say go with a 11.5".
Now, Rob I don't think you could be more wrong! :) I just ordered two YHM suppressors (5.56 and 7.62) this week, and I think tomorrow I'm going to buy the Surefire FH556 that's in stock. I have two cans already, and I went camping with friends this weekend. The only long guns that got shot more than a handful of times were the ones with cans. I came back vowing to not buy any more guns until I had cans to fit on all of my favorite rifles.
Shooting with a can is, in my opinion, the preferred method, and the only reason to shoot without one is when traveling to a place like CA where they are illegal. One of the reasons I don't schedule training there too often....
Why would you consider a suppressed gun useless?
I have to admit that I haven't run a two day carbine course with my can attached for the whole time, but I would like to, and I'm not afraid to try.
I am planning on a 10 inch DD mk18 rail with a gas block and an AAC suppressor but I'm not sure what model. I have been leaning toward the DD barrel but only because I have 2 of them already. I'm guessing all of the better barrels mentioned will have the same sized gas port.
I am running an LMT 10.5" with that rail...
http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae253/JFLOINDUSTRIES/DDM4/MK18/8324a52e.jpg
Same rail setup but with DD 10.3" and NT4
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2633/3968724913_96a1b91be8_b.jpg
I think a suppressed gun is the way to go and would like for all of mine to be suppressed. I just can't afford it.
Disclaimer: Rob, I know you are a knowledgable and respected person on this forum, and I'm a newbie, so this is not an attack of any sort- I'm always smiling and just like hearing different opinions. :) And I don't mean to hijack the thread- I say go with a 11.5".
Now, Rob I don't think you could be more wrong! :) I just ordered two YHM suppressors (5.56 and 7.62) this week, and I think tomorrow I'm going to buy the Surefire FH556 that's in stock. I have two cans already, and I went camping with friends this weekend. The only long guns that got shot more than a handful of times were the ones with cans. I came back vowing to not buy any more guns until I had cans to fit on all of my favorite rifles.
Shooting with a can is, in my opinion, the preferred method, and the only reason to shoot without one is when traveling to a place like CA where they are illegal. One of the reasons I don't schedule training there too often....
Why would you consider a suppressed gun useless?
I have to admit that I haven't run a two day carbine course with my can attached for the whole time, but I would like to, and I'm not afraid to try.
I guess it depends on the kind of shooting you're doing and the environment you're doing it in. For me they are one of the most useless, but at the same time "coolest", things you can add to a rifle or carbine.
What I've seen in classes is people start out with the can attached and then remove it, or install it at some point and then take it back off again. This is usually due to one of two reasons; malfunctions and weight. Guns are already getting pushed relatively hard in some classes and adding a can which pushes more garbage into the chamber only increases the number of malfunctions. and even some of the biggest/toughest/in-shape guys get sick of that extra weight on the end when going from low ready to firing over, and over, and over again.
If your regular shooting involves beingout in the woods or out on the range with buddies plinking or running drills for a few hours I suppose there's some application there provided everyone shooting and all the guns are suppressed so that perhaps nobody has to wear ears (prolonged 5.56, even suppressed, isn't truly hearing safe though IIRC). That's not how or when I shoot so the can to me is useless, and is only attached to my HD gun because I already own it and it's not going anywhere.
Suppressed rifles are generally a pleasure to shoot. Especially on an SBR the difference is amazing.
That said, despite who i work with, i like to have the option of usuppressed shooting, mainly for times that I am shooting with other unsuppressed people, maybe in a class, etc and i feel like carrying as little weight as possible.
I've had 10.5, 11.5, 12.5, and 14.5 5.56 SBR ARs and despite the handy length I've come to not really like shooting them much. (Mainly after spending a week shooting the 9" 300BLK, but i digress...)...
Back on topic, I see the attraction and my ideal short 5.56 setup would be a 10.5" noveske with switchblock, our Brake or Brakeout and an M4-2000 can.
Going to 11.5 is not a bad idea either, as you'll gain perhaps a little reliability with weaker ammo and a few extra yards of frag. And with a good can, you still end up shorter than a 16" with flash suppressor.
If I were making a primarily non-suppressed SBR, it would most likely end up 14.5... I know that's not sexy and all, but the usefulness in terms of extra range and still-reasonable length is worth it.
YMMV
What I've seen in classes is people start out with the can attached and then remove it, or install it at some point and then take it back off again.
Whatever can I get will need to be QD for this reason. I also hope there is an effective attachment method to allow the gun to shoot without a can.
IG do you have a pic of your setup? I looked but cant find it, you post too much to search through your profile:p
It just so happens that I have it posted just a few threads up from this one.
http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=63206
IG do you have a pic of your setup? I looked but cant find it, you post too much to search through your profile:p
Anyone know what the frag range is with 5.56 75gr TAP out of a 10.5" barrel off the top of their head?
eternal24k
10-12-10, 13:08
I LOVE my Noveske 10.5 CQB and DD 10.3, but for whatever reason, my DD is way dirtier than my Noveske, its still 100% reliable, but when my gf runs it for classes and we use the same ammo, there is just a ton more crap in it.
I would vote DD or Sabre for the money
I've tried every 10.5" inch barrel and have gone back to 11.5"
I don't like the reliability issues with 10.5" or the excessive wear it puts on a silencer.
There is a reason why Noveske started making 11.5" barrels.
There is a reason why 11.5" has been the Colt and industry standard for a short AR15 for atleast 4 decades.
RAM Engineer
10-12-10, 19:48
I've tried every 10.5" inch barrel and have gone back to 11.5"
I don't like the reliability issues with 10.5" or the excessive wear it puts on a silencer.
There is a reason why Noveske started making 11.5" barrels.
There is a reason why 11.5" has been the Colt and industry standard for a short AR15 for atleast 4 decades.
I know. Imagine my surprise when I emailed SAW to ask if they carried the 6933 and they said:
We do not carry 6933's. We think the Colt MK18 CQBR is a better upper/rifle.
They know their stuff like nobody's business, so who am I to second guess that?
They know their stuff like nobody's business, so who am I to second guess that?
I would say Colt knows their stuff like nobody's business.
SAW is not Colt. And I have never seen proof the 10.5" currently offered by SAW are actually real MK18 barrels or SAW cut downs from Colt M4 barrels. They used to be SAW cut downs. I don't know what they use now, but why do you think they are pushing the 10.5" over the 6933? Maybe because it is their own product?
It is proven fact that 10.5" shortens the life of a silencer dramatically. No matter how much experience someone has, doesn't change this fact.
I quit running a 10.5" because I don't want my silencer eaten up after 5000 rounds.
Robb Jensen
10-12-10, 21:26
Interesting.
I have just at 14K rounds through my 51 tooth AAC-M4 2000 Mod 07. Most of that was through a LMT 10.5" barrel (cutdown from a 14.5" LMT barrel) and now a Colt 10.5" (cutdown from a 14.5" SOCOM barrel).
This suppressor has been 100% trouble free.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/gotm4/gunpics/lmtsbr6.jpg
RAM Engineer
10-12-10, 21:30
I would say Colt knows their stuff like nobody's business.
SAW is not Colt. And I have never seen proof the 10.5" currently offered by SAW are actually real MK18 barrels or SAW cut downs from Colt M4 barrels. They used to be SAW cut downs. I don't know what they use now, but why do you think they are pushing the 10.5" over the 6933? Maybe because it is their own product?
It is proven fact that 10.5" shortens the life of a silencer dramatically. No matter how much experience someone has, doesn't change this fact.
I quit running a 10.5" because I don't want my silencer eaten up after 5000 rounds.
Thanks for the info. I was not aware that the 10.3"s they sell are (or were) cut down M4 barrels.
Who makes the issue Mk18 barrels? They were Colt M4 barrels cut-down by NSWC Crane originally, weren't they?
RAM Engineer
10-12-10, 21:31
Interesting.
I have just at 14K rounds through my 51 tooth AAC-M4 2000 Mod 07. Most of that was through a LMT 10.5" barrel (cutdown from a 14.5" LMT barrel) and now a Colt 10.5" (cutdown from a 14.5" SOCOM barrel).
This suppressor has been 100% trouble free.
Which muzzle device are you using?
Robb Jensen
10-12-10, 21:36
Which muzzle device are you using?
First 12K or so was the Blackout FH'er, now it's the Blackout Brake.
I just can't see that extra 1" making a huge difference in suppressor life.
I plan on the M4-2000 route and like Robb I have the 51T brake to soak up some of the erosion.
I used a Noveske 10.5" SS barrel for my build earlier this year. I am just about at 1000 rounds with no malfunctions suppressed and unsuppressed. I used a standard carbine spring and an H buffer. It is also very accurate. I will most likely add the Switchblock at some time. Easily my favorite gun.
http://techno-ruby.smugmug.com/photos/1022133552_dNGDt-M-1.jpg
Jk
Thanks for the info. I was not aware that the 10.3"s they sell are (or were) cut down M4 barrels.
Who makes the issue Mk18 barrels? They were Colt M4 barrels cut-down by NSWC Crane originally, weren't they?
They were originally Colt cut downs by Crane and now they are mostly factory Colt 10.3" barrels.
Factory Colt 10.3" barrels cost big $$ on the commercial market, probably less than 20 of these out there.
There is some disconnect between what SAW sells, what actually is a real MK18 barrel, and what people think is a real MK18 barrel, that hasn't been fully sorted out.
Interesting.
I have just at 14K rounds through my 51 tooth AAC-M4 2000 Mod 07. Most of that was through a LMT 10.5" barrel (cutdown from a 14.5" LMT barrel) and now a Colt 10.5" (cutdown from a 14.5" SOCOM barrel).
This suppressor has been 100% trouble free.
What do you mean by "trouble free"?
The suppressor will still "work" after high round counts, the internals will just look like crap.
It also depends on how much full auto shooting you do and how hot you get it.
The suppressor will still "work" after high round counts, the internals will just look like crap.
Does this affect function in some way?
If his gun is still running 14k rounds later, and with no discernible change in noise reduction....
I would like to meter a can at round one and at round 14k.
Robb Jensen
10-13-10, 11:16
What do you mean by "trouble free"?
The suppressor will still "work" after high round counts, the internals will just look like crap.
It also depends on how much full auto shooting you do and how hot you get it.
"Trouble-Free" = no maintenance needed nor has the can been back to AAC. Rifle continues to sound great suppressed and exhibit greater accuracy and more consistent velocities while suppressed.
I shot absolutely zero full auto with this upper. If I wanted a full auto I'd buy a subgun.
RAM Engineer
10-13-10, 11:20
Most of that was through a LMT 10.5" barrel (cutdown from a 14.5" LMT barrel) and now a Colt 10.5" (cutdown from a 14.5" SOCOM barrel).
What's the purpose of using cut-down 14.5" barrels? Smaller gas port?
I would like to meter a can at round one and at round 14k.
I would like to also.
Does this affect function in some way?
According to AAC, it does.
Robb Jensen
10-13-10, 11:49
What's the purpose of using cut-down 14.5" barrels? Smaller gas port?
It was cheaper for me than buying a new barrel. I already owned the LMT barrel, and the Colt I got for under $200 new. Labor to cut/thread the Colt was free from one of my 3gun sponsors so it was a no brainer IMHO.
The Colt I did leave the gas port stock and I use a BCM bolt, LMT enhanced carrier and a H3 buffer. It'll run on 5.56mm NATO ammo unsuppressed but won't lock the bolt open. Suppressed is runs 100% and shoots VERY softly.
There is a reason why Noveske started making 11.5" barrels.
Customers asked for them.
We simply don't have any issues with the 10.5" running with the correct buffer. Colt was about the only game in town for SBR barrels, plus a few other companies that probably just copied the Colt 11.5" barrel. Now that we have extractor O-rings and heavy buffers the short barrels run just fine.
As for silencer wear it depends on how hard you run the gun and how long you want it to look new inside. Shorter barrels are harder on silencers.
Customers asked for them.
We simply don't have any issues with the 10.5" running with the correct buffer.
I know.
Talking with my class 3 dealer yesterday, he mentioned that some manufacturers won't warranty their 5.56 suppressor if it's used on a barrel less than 10.5". Anything to this? I was thinking about using a DD 10.3" barrel.
Yes, most suppressors are only warranted for 10.5" min. barrels. Not to sure if .2 will make that much of a difference though.
Jk
I would ask the manufacturer. Since the issued Mk18 is a 10.3" I wouldn't think it would be a problem.
I think they but that length as its the smallest common SBR size that is approved, meaning no 7.5" pistol lengths (for 5.56 cans anyways).
Kind of a parralel discussion here (over at the AR pistol area.) I sent some emails out to various manufacturers and here is what I got.
From Gem-tech.
Well, essentially, yes. We do not warranty any damage to the suppressor caused by use on barrels less than 10.5". Were you to shoot the suppressor on a barrel that short, there is risk of excessive wear, baffle strikes, and other damage. Even if you shot the suppressor on a 7.5" barrel without any visible damage to the suppressor, and then moved it back to a longer barrel where it was then damaged, in all likelihood, the damage was caused by use on the short barrel which weakened the suppressor and therefore the damage would not be covered under warranty.
Fact is, you've invested a lot of money in obtaining this suppressor.
Don't risk throwing it away by using it on a 7.5" barrel. Use the pistol
for what it was meant to be... A fire-breathing dragon. They just aren't suitable for use with a suppressor. The cartridge was never intended for a barrel that short.
From Surefire.
Dear Customer,
Most 5.56 rifles are equipped with 1/7 twist barrels (1 full rotation per 7 inches of barrel). This provides for a little over one full turn in the rifling before the bullet is released when used in a 7.5" Barrel. Due to the lack of gyration imparted on the projectile, the round will not be properly stabilized during the first few inches of flight, and while it is entirely plausible that the round will eventually stabilize further downrange; it will likely strike a baffle before it has the opportunity to do so. The effect is further worsened when using a 1/8 or 1/9 twist barrel. Additionally, these short barrel rifles (<10.5") typically do not yield adequate velocity upon the projectile within that short 7" of barrel, further augmenting the aforementioned stability issue.
If the Mini was used on a 7.5” AR pistol and you were fortunate enough to not encounter a baffle strike, you would note that the effectiveness of the suppressor would be decreased. Most of the unburnt powder would ignite upon leaving the Suppressor, providing for plenty of noise and flash. Furthermore, when used in conjunction with a short barreled rifle, service life of a Suppressor will be drastically shortened. The 5.56mm cartridge was designed to burn all powder within a 20" barrel (e.g. M16A1, M16A2). Maximum pressure and temperature is achieved roughly 7" from the chamber of the rifle; in close proximity to the access-chamber of the Suppressor. The hot and high pressure particles of unburnt powder are then accelerated through the baffles of your Suppressor, putting disproportionate wear on your product. Your SureFire Suppressor (Including the Mini and 212 Suppressors) will still be covered under our warranty if used on a barrel length less than 10.5”
The only exception to this is the 5.56 Micro Suppressor; Using this on anything shorter than 14” is outside of the intended scope of the product, and will void the warranty. Thank You
SRT Arms was somewhat vague, but they basically said that there was too much bullet yaw for barrels under 10.5" and they actually preferred at least 11 inches.
Yes, most suppressors are only warranted for 10.5" min. barrels. Not to sure if .2 will make that much of a difference though.
Jk
So you think the 10.3 would be ok? I wouldn't be planning to add a suppressor at first, so I'd be running it without one for awhile. Anyone using a BattleComp on one?
I think a properly constructed and quality 10.3" would be ok. I remember that when I was researching on how to configure my SBR I took some of this info into account and decided that an 11.5 the best compromise.
I still feel that the extra inch in length may not be as cool, but it seems to be working jus fine for me.
So you think the 10.3 would be ok? I wouldn't be planning to add a suppressor at first, so I'd be running it without one for awhile. Anyone using a BattleComp on one?
Yeah, I have 2 lowers out to be engraved, so I wanted to do one real short, with plans on suppressing it eventually, and do the other unsuppressed, like a 12.5 or 11.5.
If you do that Id say make the 2nd one a 12.5".
for 5.56, 10" or more is warranted.
Yes, as far as can life, 11.5 and 12.5+ will make an fair improvement.
This can be somewhat offset by using Brakes, or Brakeouts on really short guns. But, to be honest, we've been running even older model cans for years and years with just flash hiders and they hold up very well.
This can be somewhat offset by using Brakes, or Brakeouts on really short guns.
How does this offset it?
If you look at the AAC 51T brake for the M4-2000 it basically adds 2 baffles to soak up some of the unburnt powder and erosion. So the brake takes some of the abuse off the can.
Major Malfunction had a post about it on Silencertalk
How does this offset it?
The surface(s) of a brake will intercept some of the unburnt powder/etc. before it reaches the blast baffle.
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