View Full Version : painted/camouflaged tac gear
I have painted a couple pieces of gear (pics to follow) and was wondering everyone elses experiences with painting gear (nylon, guns, flashlights, etc, etc.). Techniques for painting, camouflaging techniques, pictures, best paints, etc, etc. I would like a post with all things related to painting/camouflaging tactical gear, and this is one of the best places to get that info
I've big fan of brownell's aluma-hyde two. I paint everything with it, although it s best to rough up plastics heavily so it doesnt chip off. alumahyde is priced right, easy to use and clean up. duracoat seems to be more of a pain to work with, due to all the equipment needed. one thing i like to do is paint a rilfe one base color (like OD or coyote) with the alumahyde, and then add different camo schemes with krylon. if i want to change the camo, i rub the krylon off with nailpolish remover. its all about trial and error. good results follow more experience. i.e. paint your ammo cans first!
Greta info.....i was just looking at the alumahyde 2 and the bake on finish too.
I've used alumi-hyde on one AR buttstock and on the stock & Surefire forearm for my 870. That's held up fine over the last 18 months or so. I've also used the Alumi-hyde on a MICH helmet - while it has not seen hard use, the paint has held up to use & wear it has seen.
The chest rig I headed overseas with had several black buckles. As mentioned, I made them more paint friendly by sanding with coarse grit paper. I then sprayed them with Krylon's camo paint. The Krylon held up well enough for the duration of my trip; some of it is still there.
I have been impressed with Duracoat and ArmorTuff. Both of these finishes have taken a beating on my friends guns and you can't tell. I plan on splurging for some next year so that I don't beat up my guns any more.
More good info. Anyone have pictures?
Buckles were black as well and used krylon on the buckles and to break up the outline of the coyote. Krylon on the protec helmet and the once black gloves as well!
i have gotten in to it mostly with dura kote for the plastics and moly gun kote for the metal heres a couple of the latest a rifle and a safariland holster
To me, the camo doesn't matter. The most important thing is to take the shine out of the material. I use UV killer and paint all of my clothes with it, inside and outside. That way you don't light up like a neon sign with night vision goggles. Another good thing to do is to pick out the most common foliage and put it on top of your gear.
Take turns spray painting on your dyes. Don't worry about the patterns too much. First, throw down a bunch of sticks and spray flat earth, light grey, and flat black. This will give you the 3D look. Next, trace the leaves on cardboard and cut out the patterns. The leaves need to be the type that grows 5 feet or less from the ground. Don't use acorn tree leaves or other high growing trees. Spray in a few leaves of green color. Not too many. You just want to give the illusion that you are neither foreground or back ground.
Something else to consider. The human eye picks up patterns and movement to identify images. If you are not moving, they can still pick up the outline of a camo person. The best thing to do is to mix up your camo patterns. Infantry need to be in a uniform, so their patterns are all matching usually. But civilians do not have to follow this. So take advantage and use different types of camo together and you will break up your pattern better.
If you want to go really far, buy camo material from a textile supplier and sew on jagged strips to your backpacks, pants, and helmet. You chest rig doesn't need it since you should be laying on your stomach if you don't want to be spotted. You wouldn't want to obstruct the view of your pouches anyway.
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