View Full Version : Barrel Nut - What Have I Got Here
Need some experienced hands on this.
Just finished mating a new barrel to an upper. Frist time.
14.5" DD barrel w/ Vltor lopro gas block and pinned AAC Brakeout Compensator. This was shipped to me with the barrel nut already installed of course.
The first thing I noticed was that the barrel nut looked like it had been previously installed. Keep in mind that this is my first time mating a barrel to an upper. Really don't know what a new barrel nut should look like.
Tighting the barrel nut was a tribulation for me. Could not get the scallops on the barrel nut to align with the gas tube opening on the upper to save my life. Did the tighten, loosen thing 30 times at least and after wringing off an ear of the barrel nut. Took the upper out of the vise block and looked inside the barrel nut. There appeared to be what looked like carbon build up inside where the barrel and the nut mate. (Wish I would have taken a pic of this. Was pissed at this point) Scraped this out and was able to get everything aligned.
I know this is alot of fuss for a $8.00 part but if I pay for new, I want NEW. There was no way for me to replace it other than sending it back because of the pinning / welding.
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz229/Scoby/IMG_0526.jpg
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz229/Scoby/IMG_0525.jpg
So what do you think....Used?
Scoby
Terlingueno
04-16-11, 21:18
Who sold you the barrel?
Who sold you the barrel?
I kinda expected this to be asked. It was a shop that you would not expect this from. I'm hesitant to say since I made a post in the feedback forum (It was good feedback) and it ended up deleted with no explaination at all.:confused:
Scoby
If you post feedback in the feedback forum and they are not a site sponsor or a member of M4C then it gets deleted. We don't care about feedback for outside sources.
The feedback area is reserved for members, sponsors, manufacturers, etc..
It is not for companies like Spike's, Smartgunner, etc...
I kinda expected this to be asked. It was a shop that you would not expect this from. I'm hesitant to say since I made a post in the feedback forum (It was good feedback) and it ended up deleted with no explaination at all.:confused:
Scoby
I'm not an expert on these things, and I can't tell a whole lot from the picture, but it looks to me that the barrel nut is covered in a lube film (like the inside of an upper receiver). If that isn't lube film, I would be worried. If it is lube film, I would wonder why it is on the barrel nut.
I've changed several barrel nuts and can say that I've never had one look like that, even ones that had been previous installed.
If the barrel nut looked like that when you got it, I wouldn't have even bothered installing it. It would've gone back immediately.
Are you saying that barrel nut was new? It doesn't look like any nut I have seen before. It looks like it has been painted.
Now to the process. Were you attempting to torque the nut? If so, what did you have the wrench set at?
Are you saying that barrel nut was new? It doesn't look like any nut I have seen before. It looks like it has been painted.
Now to the process. Were you attempting to torque the nut? If so, what did you have the wrench set at?
I first thought it might be painted, too. But if it is painted, what the hell is under the paint?
Are you saying that barrel nut was new? It doesn't look like any nut I have seen before. It looks like it has been painted.
Now to the process. Were you attempting to torque the nut? If so, what did you have the wrench set at?
Well, when I ordered it I expected to get a new one. This is one of those instances where I don't know what I don't know. Even so, it just didnt look new. Yeah it looked painted although there is no pealing or anything to indicate it was painted other than the bare metal spots you see in the pic.
When I rounded off the scallop on the nut I was torquing the nut. No torque wrench. Got it snug and then tried to get it to the next gas tube index. Wouldn't go. Rounding off the scallop was probably my fault even in light of the crud in the nut. It was then that I took it out of the vise block and inspected it and found the crap inside of it. After removing it I was able to get it real tight and indexed. Shot 150 rds without a problem.
See your PMs
Scoby
Have you contacted the gunsmith which did the work to ask any questions?
Scoby,
Here's the deal. The torque value is supposed to be between 30-80 ft./lbs. Now I personally do not use a torque wrench because I have done more than a few and can almost always get the nut tight and lined up. If you haven't done this alot, then you may want to use one to see where you are at.
In this case the crap on there may have contributed to the problem.
Well, when I ordered it I expected to get a new one. This is one of those instances where I don't know what I don't know. Even so, it just didnt look new. Yeah it looked painted although there is no pealing or anything to indicate it was painted other than the bare metal spots you see in the pic.
When I rounded off the scallop on the nut I was torquing the nut. No torque wrench. Got it snug and then tried to get it to the next gas tube index. Wouldn't go. Rounding off the scallop was probably my fault even in light of the crud in the nut. It was then that I took it out of the vise block and inspected it and found the crap inside of it. After removing it I was able to get it real tight and indexed. Shot 150 rds without a problem.
See your PMs
Scoby
Have you contacted the gunsmith which did the work to ask any questions?
Since I don't have any experience with this, I wanted to see if my suspicions were founded before I did this. And yes, if it smells like it looks I'll definitely call them out. Outside of this forum of course.
I don't know what I don't know when it comes to this. It's why Im asking.
Scoby
I've only done it a handful of times myself. Good luck with it.
looks weird to me... not just the splotchy phosphate, but the whole thing... cant quite put my finger on it, but it doesn't look right. i'll have to grab one out of the shop tonight for comparison.
what shop?
looks weird to me... not just the splotchy phosphate, but the whole thing... cant quite put my finger on it, but it doesn't look right. i'll have to grab one out of the shop tonight for comparison.
what shop?
mecan find photos. Its the wicked organized/clean bench in the photo of the 14.5" bbl you sold me!
looks weird to me... not just the splotchy phosphate, but the whole thing... cant quite put my finger on it, but it doesn't look right. i'll have to grab one out of the shop tonight for comparison.
what shop?
I'd like to hear what you think after your comparison. Post a pic if you can.
Scoby
looks weird to me... not just the splotchy phosphate, but the whole thing... cant quite put my finger on it, but it doesn't look right. i'll have to grab one out of the shop tonight for comparison.
what shop?
I can find photos of your immaculate shop. It is the wicked organized/clean bench in the photo of the 14.5" bbl you sold me!
You want to ensure the threads of the barrel nut & receiver are clean and free of debris prior to installation.
That barrel nut looks pretty chewed on. What tool were you using? Looks like you did a number on the anodizing on the front of the upper receiver too.
I can find photos of your immaculate shop. It is the wicked organized/clean bench in the photo of the 14.5" bbl you sold me!
this one?
http://a1.l3-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/93/6971bb566aa1490aaab6369d727d0759/l.jpg
yea... i hope i didnt give the impression that it always looks like that.... :o
well i think its just from looking at a barrel nut against a receiver without a delta assembly that made it look funny. the only thing i can point out from the pic is the fucked up parker, which youve obviously noticed. personally, i would not use a bbl nut with bad park, but if its already permed on there, what can you do? you might try cold bluing the spots before final assembly.
Looks pained to me.
I have metric tons of barrel nuts taken off of LMT and BCM uppers if you want one for free (if interested).
C4
Looks pained to me.
I have metric tons of barrel nuts taken off of LMT and BCM uppers if you want one for free (if interested).
C4
Thanks for the offer Grant but the muzzle device is pinned and welded on. If it needs to be replaced because of a potential failure or it's some chicom hunk of junk, then you're my man.
That's what I'd really like to know.......is this something I should be concerned about? Are there pieces of junk barrel nuts just like there are poj of anything else?
I've got it all together. I did have to file down the ear that I buggered up so I wouldn't have a problem with the rail. Other than looking like crap, it seems fine. Ran 150 rds through it yesterday after it was done without the first problem.
Should this thing be replaced?
Dave_M
The nut pretty much looked just like you see it there when I got it. Other than the ear I messed up. The receiver is fine. You're seeing a sloppy job with anti-seize and having to handle this thing 30 plus times.
bkb0000
I've thought about the cold blue. I have some if I need it.
Scoby
Thanks for the offer Grant but the muzzle device is pinned and welded on. If it needs to be replaced because of a potential failure or it's some chicom hunk of junk, then you're my man.
That's what I'd really like to know.......is this something I should be concerned about? Are there pieces of junk barrel nuts just like there are poj of anything else?
I've got it all together. I did have to file down the ear that I buggered up so I wouldn't have a problem with the rail. Other than looking like crap, it seems fine. Ran 150 rds through it yesterday after it was done without the first problem.
Should this thing be replaced?
Dave_M
The nut pretty much looked just like you see it there when I got it. Other than the ear I messed up. The receiver is fine. You're seeing a sloppy job with anti-seize and having to handle this thing 30 plus times.
bkb0000
I've thought about the cold blue. I have some if I need it.
Scoby
the only problem you may or may not have is increased odds of rust. maybe i missed it, but what handguard are you using? if it's easy enough to take it off and put it back on, you could simply make sure it stays decently oiled over the ages. if it was me- i hate bare steel, so i'd definitely cold blue it. if you've never done it before, make sure you REALLY chemically strip the nut before you give it a go... i'll wipe down the part with lacquer thinner, sometimes three or four times, to make sure all oil/grease is stripped, then really rub the blue into the spot. repeat as many time as necessary to get the spots good and dark, then just keep it oiled. it'll be fine.
blue isn't as good as park at holding oil, but i've hacked on/cut/modified enough steel parts over the years to assure you that it works a hell of a lot better than bare steel.
Thanks bkb000.
The rail is a Centurion and it's not a problem to take off. If I end up with the nut staying on, this is exactly what I'll do.
Scoby
If I end up with the nut staying on...
obviously its your gun and subject to your level of OCD (we all have our own level), but let me also just emphasize that if i was you, right now, with the weapon already permed, i would definitely use it as it is. it's not a big enough concern to have it cost me any money or more time to fix.
OK Here is an update on this barrel nut of mine.
Some of you wanted to know what shop this was.......Rainier Arms.
Parts of this post have been deleled by Scoby
You guys think the Brownells Aluma-Hyde would take care of the looks of this? Good product? Better than using cold blue?
Scoby
You could use some dry film lube. Like the stuff on usgi mags. It's like paint.
Biz Kizzle
04-19-11, 11:52
just to throw this out here, i ordered a barrel nut from rainier arms and it looked new aka not like the one the OP has a picture of installed. mine was NOT installed by them, but after i installed my own, it still looked 10 times better than that. not sure how you make a barrel nut look like the one pictured.
A couple pix of a known 30+ year old barrel nut that's been installed and removed using an armorers wrench at least 5~6x over the years and been on a couple combat tours besides.
Looking at the pix in the 1st post, I see several tool marks like what would be left behind by a big set of vice grips or a pipe wrench and where it appears a drift or very poorly fitting armorers wrench was used to try and align or snug things up. Not the kind of marks that would be produced by a binful of them knocking against each other.
I'm not saying this was or wasn't induced by the OP, nor that it should have effected to coating like it did, just that obvious marks are there.
8198
8199
Apologies for the lack of complete clarity of the pix as I'm not supercameraguy.
I promise it looks far, far better than the 'new' one shown in the 1st post and still has pretty much all the coating in all the little scallops that a armorers wrench would engage still present. Wear on the points of the nut is a result of decades of handguards being installed and removed. Scuffage on the receiver side of the nut is from the weld spring on the delta nut being worked in conjunction with handguard intallation and removal.
Man oh man, that thing looks like it's seen better days for sure. I'd be very surprised if that were a "new" barrel nut.
GTfosi
Even with the bad pic, your 30 year old barrel nut looks better than mine.
I did scuff it alittle with the armorers wrench and stripped an ear off initially. Most of what you see however is the way it looked when I unpacked it.
Scoby
Query:
Whatever coating that was still on it when you unpacked, did it easily scrape off when you tried working with it, or did it scale off in pieces that may have even held the shape of where they were initially applied?
If the former, poor quality coating density/hardness/curing type issue, if the latter, poor part cleaning pre~coating or over~accelerated curing process.
Not hard and fast rules mind you, but decent bet hedgers none the less.
That being said, I'm fairly certain the normal presevation treatment is a parkerization or bluing process, not a spray, dip or coating, so it shouldn't have come off to begin with other than being scraped hard enough to get into the surface of the metal.
My guess would be that the part was not prepped correctly before it was finished, though I do not have much experience with phosphating (I'm assuming it's phosphated).
It should have been rejected, along with any other parts in the batch with the same appearance, at some point along the way, either by the manufacturer or the company that received it.
While I do not put a huge emphasis on physical appearance alone, we do have finishes on firearm parts for a reason.
Some of you may have noticed that I deleted my email correspondence with Rainier from this thread.
After further consideration and other emails between myself and Rainier I do believe that this is just one of those mistakes that happen from time to time.
Paul seems like a nice guy. I'm sure he and I, if given the opportunity, would enjoy knocking a few back together.
Out
Scoby
Some of you may have noticed that I deleted my email correspondence with Rainier from this thread.
After further consideration and other emails between myself and Rainier I do believe that this is just one of those mistakes that happen from time to time.
Paul seems like a nice guy. I'm sure he and I, if given the opportunity, would enjoy knocking a few back together.
Out
Scoby
It looks like they used"Anti-Seize" as evidenced by the silver swirls of past on the front of the receiver. Does it wipeoff on your finger? if so, I wouldn't worry too much.
Until that day,
Darkop
polymorpheous
04-22-11, 15:17
It looks like they used"Anti-Seize" as evidenced by the silver swirls of past on the front of the receiver. Does it wipeoff on your finger? if so, I wouldn't worry too much.
Until that day,
Darkop
Anti seize does not produce carbon, which the OP had to scrape off.
Anti seize does not produce carbon, which the OP had to scrape off.
Correct.
Scoby
Well I've painted the barrel nut and it looks much better. Not sure how well the Aluma Hyde II will hold up. Especially to heat.
Before
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz229/Scoby/IMG_0545.jpg
After
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz229/Scoby/IMG_0589.jpg
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