View Full Version : Froglube
skullworks
06-18-12, 04:34
PS. There was talk of a Froglube brand "cleaner" coming out, any word on it?
According to a comment (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150980255028497&set=a.259833698496.139238.253190558496&type=1&comment_id=6860631&offset=0&total_comments=25) on their Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Froglube/253190558496):
~that is in production now!! It will be available as promised! We test and evaluate until we reach what we call a premium product. Thanks for hanging in there!! We are looking at end of June for availability~
I have found Lubriplate #105 Engine assembly lube to act a lot like what is described with Froglube. Except it doesn't smell like anything.
I don't remember how much it cost, but it wasn't very much. You can find it at pretty much any auto parts store.
It goes on like a light grease, acts like oil when it's hot and cools off to be like grease again. And it it makes everything very easy to wipe off.
I've been using it on handguns for a long time and can't see any downside to it. I especially like it on aluminum frame autos.
ComradeBoris
06-30-12, 23:12
Not much of an update to speak of, but as time goes on I have to say I find frogloube to be excellent in many ways. At this point to I think it lubricates better than say Slip? Not that I can see. Is clean up just a little easier? Yes. Is it wonderlube? No. Is it just a little bit better than anything I have used yet? For my uses yes. Was I a hater? No, maybe skeptic is a better word. I have come to like the liquid best, the paste better for exteriors for my parts that get stored. I lubed my Sig p228 and Glock 19 both with a single drop of lube and that was after I spent half a heart beat wiping the guts out. Great stuff all around and happy with my purchase. Will be looking forward to additional products from them.
tvfreakarms
07-01-12, 07:55
So far i like using FL my self. I don't have to wear gloves or don't worry about chemical smell and what not. Does a good job as a lube. As a cleaner not to bad. Maybe they can improve on the cleaning aspect of FL.
Overall i'm happy.
Frog Lube also has a stripper now - non-toxic and pour-down-the-drain just like the lube.
Link?
Link?
Yes we need a link to the frog lube stripper :haha:
i heard the navy seals use froglube on there guns.
and you heard this from.......chuck norris? Oh wait he's delta force.
there is tactical shop on coronado, they also sell froglube and they said it was endorsed by them. the owner of the shop is a former seal.
I can see you are a man in need of some property.
I have a quaint chalet in Tennessee right on the gulf.
I will make you the deal of the day on it.
Littlelebowski
07-03-12, 17:11
I can see you are a man in need of some property.
I have a quaint chalet in Tennessee right on the gulf.
I will make you the deal of the day on it.
That there.....awesome.
That there.....awesome.
:D.:D
There is also a store next to the boathouse at Hereford that sells it. Clearly it's the real deal.
There is also a store next to the boathouse at Hereford that sells it. Clearly it's the real deal.
Nice... what color is it?
In all seriousness, my 2 year old daughter helped me brush frog lube on my AR's bcg the other day... I would've never let her near anything with the previous stuff I used.
Littlelebowski
07-03-12, 19:59
Actually, FrogLube wasn't inverted by a SEAL but rather was already in use as a track lubricant for amusement park rides. It is not military issue nor SEAL issue. It is indeed good stuff.
So what DO the SEALs currently use? And whatever happened to the FrogLube degreaser/stripper?
Actually, FrogLube wasn't inverted by a SEAL but rather was already in use as a track lubricant for amusement park rides. It is not military issue nor SEAL issue. It is indeed good stuff.
Yes, Larry Lasky http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/577306_3254672320739_1653380769_n.jpg, and Dwight Settle http://seal1.net/Dwight_in_green.jpg are just "names and faces". Scott Lee http://m3.licdn.com/mpr/pub/image-OSKq7rafiGdRqX-rEcrI8kD9yjE1nXJZOSxQnUAfyLr52bTfOSKQ2RBfy9Son4BMP86_/scott-lee.jpg is the man that invented these lubricants (or rather, that owns the company that invented it).
I really hope that isn't Lasky's blinged out Crown Vic. Oh, and BTW...on the SHOT Show YouTube video of Lasky (Gun Websites), he says FrogLube is an improved version of another lubricant. Is he maybe referring to SEAL 1, which is supposedly also a track lubricant?
I really hope that isn't Lasky's blinged out Crown Vic. Oh, and BTW...on the SHOT Show YouTube video of Lasky (Gun Websites), he says FrogLube is an improved version of another lubricant. Is he maybe referring to SEAL 1, which is supposedly also a track lubricant?
All of it is formulated by Trillium Solutions, headed by Scott Lee, as CEO, who also runs SEAL-1.
Didn't we go through all of this already...
Didn't we go through all of this already...
Yes. The stuff works well, and I prefer the "new" Froglube formula, personally. The Seal 1 reacts more aggressively to temperature changes, but is "waxier" at room temperature.
SomeOtherGuy
07-03-12, 22:12
Nice... what color is it?
Minty green, just like the topic of this thread.
For an added bonus, I will kill you with a teacup... no wait, wrong movie. I'll just ambush you with a coffee cup.
In all seriousness, my 2 year old daughter helped me brush frog lube on my AR's bcg the other day... I would've never let her near anything with the previous stuff I used.
Not telling you what to do, but there is tons of lead dust mixed in with all that carbon, both from primer residue (lead azide is a typical primer component) and vaporized lead from the base of any FMJ bullets you're firing. I'm glad that Froglube itself is nontoxic but I still wash up thoroughly after cleaning any guns and would keep away any kids too young to be diligent about washing and not licking their fingers. (If you cleaned your bcg with an ultrasonic cleaner or some other ultra-thorough technique before letting her handle it, this caution might not apply.)
For the same reason, cleaning fired cases with a tumbler generates tons of lead dust and is best not done indoors, at least in any structure that's lived in. My case tumbler and media sifter live in a detached barn, even though the rest of my reloading setup is in the basement.
Markasaurus
07-04-12, 11:56
There's tests online (http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot39.htm) where folks soaked primers in different solvents and they still worked. Seems like just another gun myth. were the primers still seated in the cartridge? When i was young and dumb i would drill out a small hole in a bullet and shake the powder out. Then soak the primer with wd-40 for a day. To make a dummy cartridge for dry firing. Killed the primer every time. By the way I don't do that anymore...
skullworks
07-04-12, 15:51
Link?
They were handing it out at SHOT. Also, see my comment at the top of the page: https://www.m4carbine.net/showpost.php?p=1329576&postcount=501
skullworks
07-04-12, 15:55
And whatever happened to the FrogLube degreaser/stripper?
Again; asked and answered: https://www.m4carbine.net/showpost.php?p=1329576&postcount=501
Thanks. 27 pages of posts makes it kinda hard to chase everything down unless you've been following it all along.
So the end of June. Hmmmmm... Guess we'll have to wait till then.
Salamander
07-04-12, 16:11
For those in the Chicago area... Shore Galleries (on Devon Ave.) has Froglube on sale through July 7. I'm in town on business this week, and last night picked up a 4 oz bottle of paste for $8.95, and 4 oz of liquid for 14.95.
Of course, there is Cook County's 9-something percent sales tax to contend with on over the counter sales.
I'm surprised that gun lube is really even needed in Chicago. The only people with guns are the coppers and the criminals.
Iraq Ninja
07-04-12, 23:22
he says FrogLube is an improved version of another lubricant. Is he maybe referring to SEAL 1, which is supposedly also a track lubricant?
Nope. SEAL 1 came after FrogLube. Both formulated by Scott. Dwight heads up the SEAL 1 company and not associated with FL anymore.
So after reading virtually this entire thread, some parts multiple times...I'm going to get some.
How much/what size are you guys getting? How far does it go/long does it last?
I'm mostly getting it to use on my first AR (should have it in a week or two) but I don't see any reason not to use it on my handguns. I imagine I'll need a decent amount for the initial application on multiple guns...but how much? I'll probably get both paste and liquid.
tvfreakarms
07-06-12, 02:31
It is a little pricey for the amount you get. I use it on glock, xdm, POF, cmmg .22lr, and my sks.
So far i only used little less than half of the none liquid FL. I had it for about 6 months or so. So it depends how often you clean your guns.
On the instruction it says to use rubbing alcohol to get rid of any residual oils or other stuff.
What i do is, Heat up the metal parts and polymer till where it's warm/hot. Put FL, wait for about 30min. or so to let it dry. Reheat it and clean. Then i'll reheat it again and put some light coating to keep it lubed. Then i'll put some of the liquid FL down the barrel.
Then go shot. U can leave it on there. It won't it hurt it.
As the parts heat up when you shot, you will see FL start to get sheen because it will start to liquify. When your done do a quick rub down. The FL creates some what like a barrier from the carbon build when you shot. So it helps makes cleaning a little easier.
Smells good and you don't have to wear gloves or anything.
Youtube FL.
So after reading virtually this entire thread, some parts multiple times...I'm going to get some.
How much/what size are you guys getting? How far does it go/long does it last?
I'm mostly getting it to use on my first AR (should have it in a week or two) but I don't see any reason not to use it on my handguns. I imagine I'll need a decent amount for the initial application on multiple guns...but how much? I'll probably get both paste and liquid.
ComradeBoris
07-06-12, 10:03
So after reading virtually this entire thread, some parts multiple times...I'm going to get some.
How much/what size are you guys getting? How far does it go/long does it last?
I'm mostly getting it to use on my first AR (should have it in a week or two) but I don't see any reason not to use it on my handguns. I imagine I'll need a decent amount for the initial application on multiple guns...but how much? I'll probably get both paste and liquid.
Had the liquid and paste for about 3-4 months now. Used for multiple weapons 5-6 cleanings on my glock and AR. I have cleaned my 700 twice with it and my p228 twice. So far I have used maybe a 1/5 of my 4 oz of paste and less than that of the 4 oz. liquid. It goes an incredibly long way and spreads well, especially in the barrels.
It is a little pricey for the amount you get. I use it on glock, xdm, POF, cmmg .22lr, and my sks.
So far i only used little less than half of the none liquid FL. I had it for about 6 months or so. So it depends how often you clean your guns.
On the instruction it says to use rubbing alcohol to get rid of any residual oils or other stuff.
What i do is, Heat up the metal parts and polymer till where it's warm/hot. Put FL, wait for about 30min. or so to let it dry. Reheat it and clean. Then i'll reheat it again and put some light coating to keep it lubed. Then i'll put some of the liquid FL down the barrel.
Then go shot. U can leave it on there. It won't it hurt it.
As the parts heat up when you shot, you will see FL start to get sheen because it will start to liquify. When your done do a quick rub down. The FL creates some what like a barrier from the carbon build when you shot. So it helps makes cleaning a little easier.
Smells good and you don't have to wear gloves or anything.
Youtube FL.
But what size did you get?
Had the liquid and paste for about 3-4 months now. Used for multiple weapons 5-6 cleanings on my glock and AR. I have cleaned my 700 twice with it and my p228 twice. So far I have used maybe a 1/5 of my 4 oz of paste and less than that of the 4 oz. liquid. It goes an incredibly long way and spreads well, especially in the barrels.
Wow.
Thanks. I was looking at the 4oz paste/4oz liquid. Sounds like that would be plenty
ComradeBoris
07-06-12, 17:37
Should be. Some people melt their FL and put it on the gun. I just pasted it on with a toothbrush and tossed the parts in the oven. Now I don't even really do that. I just shoot outside in the oppressive summer heat and let that do the work :) It can last longer or shorter depending on how you apply it I think. Myself I think when I run out of the paste I will stay with the liquid. I have noticed zero different between them other than the liquid spreads more easily for bores and pistol guts. As I said before, I put a single drop on my finger and got the whole inside of my glock 19 wet and used a brush to get the rails. Easy as pie. When using it on the bore of my M700 and AR it appeared as though it spread very well in the barrel and the brush looked to be getting the gunk out. Is this any better than other products? I don't know, but as far as I can tell I like the smell, it seems to do what it states, and I just ignore their ridiculous marketing.
DIRTMAN556
07-06-12, 23:42
With no blow gun or hair dryer, I simply placed some parts inside of the still hot engine bay of my car. Worked nicely to toast parts.
12 hours on my 370Z rotor in light mist/rain/high humidity, de-greased with acetone, lubes applied and then wiped over once to remove excess (using dry paper-towel, blue, shop). Then, glass of water thrown directly on (after 12 hours of rain and humidity in the parking-lot). Pictures 3-4 hours after that.
*Car was driven around the block immediately prior to application, rotors were warm when applied.
Left--->right: CLP, old FL Paste, new FL Paste.
http://i46.tinypic.com/34ffeyp.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/1q3ha8.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/fw3e42.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com28mn294.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/2cghtmg.jpg
I have yet to find ANYTHING that rusts faster than a brake rotor.
You SHOULD NOT be putting lube on your brake rotors for obvious reasons...well maybe not obvious to you. WOW!
You SHOULD NOT be putting lube on your brake rotors for obvious reasons...well maybe not obvious to you. WOW!
That definitely puts the "sporting" back in sports car.;)
You know a quick step on the brakes will remove all rust on the rotors...
I hope you ran some brake clean over that to remove the lubricants.
Be safe and enjoy the Z
Sent from my Triumph
wtheesfeld
07-13-12, 08:42
Please don't lubricate your brake rotors any more. Go get some brakleen and really clean them well. As someone above said, that rust goes away the first time you hit the brakes. Putting a heat activated lubricant on your friction based stopping point of your car is mind boggling.
You know a quick step on the brakes will remove all rust on the rotors...
I hope you ran some brake clean over that to remove the lubricants.
Be safe and enjoy the Z
Sent from my Triumph
Yes, and the Z did just fine without any sort of chemical de-greasing. The friction/heat (really the forming and breaking of chemical bonds as pad material bonded to the rotor and pad material on the pad form/break bonds--and hence the need to bed brakes properly--, but most people are happier thinking of simple "friction" as occurring, instead) generated between the pads and rotor are such that the lubricant is removed in VERY short order, just like the rust. Never have I ever heard of a thumb-smear's lubricant on a brake-rotor being an issue at all. It doesn't bare worrying over, and I never felt the slightest difference in pedal feel on the way to the gym this morning. Even my first stop was completely normal.
I figured it was for testing purposes as brakes like to rust so darn fast like you mentioned.
Safety is a priority when driving a performance vehicle, especially if you push your vehicle to the limit.
Sent from my Triumph
I figured it was for testing purposes as brakes like to rust so darn fast like you mentioned.
Safety is a priority when driving a performance vehicle, especially if you push your vehicle to the limit.
Sent from my Triumph
Yes, just a couple of smears. I have worked on cars long enough and gotten various parts of them smudged with grease that I didn't think anything of it. I should have posted the picture differently to avoid the OH NOEZ! that it seems to have solicited. Yes, I keep the Z in good shape, keep tabs on tread-depth, and will replace the Potenza's with Pilot Sports when they finally die. It's a fun car, but I don't like how the front-heavy distribution likes such early acceleration out of/acceleration to balance early in a corner. I am used to my last car, which was 50/50 static. Driving a more neutral car feels safer to me on the street, which has grit,oil,gravel, etc. I would MUCH RATHER balance with the brakes than the throttle. This car weighs in at more like 56/44 when I had it weighed.
Let's not turn this into a car racing thread.
Let's not turn this into a car racing thread.
The Froglube paste that is the new formula seemed to prevent rust better than the old in this 1-sample test. When I wiped the spots clean with a finger, my finger got "orange" more-so on the CLP and old formula paste than the new. Obviously it;s just one test, but it seems that the color isn't the only difference between new and old FL Paste.
After reading all about FL in this thread and reading the testimonials on their web site I decided to give the stuff a try. I found a gun shop in the area that carries it. I picked up a 4oz thing of both the liquid and the paste.
I took the time to do the initial cleaning and application for both my Ruger SR9C and my AR today. I warmed the cleaned parts up in the oven for a couple minutes at a low setting to get it ready. I have to say I'm impressed with how the FL seems to really seep into every area that it can, it's like it seeks metal. Can't complain about the fact that it smells great too, and is "green."
I'm looking forward to future cleanings to see how things hold up.
Ok Ok Ok.....I gave in a few minutes ago and was ordering some tw25b grease from Brownell's and saw they have Frog Lube now....so I ordered a bottle of it to try it out.
Now I am confused. Is there a "new" formula Frog lube?
justlikeanyoneelse
07-13-12, 23:37
Yes Froglube reformulated the original formula and branded it as premium. I used both and didn't tell any difference, FL is FL don't worry about it.
Now I am confused. Is there a "new" formula Frog lube?
Littlelebowski
07-15-12, 19:01
How about Eezox?
How about starting a thread on it instead of derailing this one?
Well I took the opportunity to try some of that Frog Lube and have been using it for different things for the past couple months so decided its time to write a review of the product and my experiences.
I started out using it on my M&P9 for both cleaning and lubrication. So far I am impressed with its ability to clean carbon and lead from my pistol. Per the insrtuctions for deep cleaning and protection I choose to heat my parts then apply the Frog Lube and let it soak in for a few minutes before wiping it off. Any carbon or grime that was on the parts before are all wiped away leaving behind a nice slick and protective coating. I've found it to be great at cleaning barrels. No more need for solvents as I simply run this thru a warm bore with a brass brush followed by a few patches and I'm left with a sparkling clean bore thats seems to be easier to clean on subsequent cleanings. This is important since I shoot predominantly lead bullets.
Next, I began using it on my .22lr AR Conversion Bolt made by CMMG. I fully disassembled the kit and let it lay out in the sun long enough to get nice and hot. Like the M&P, I then coated everything with Frong Lube and allowed it to soak in for about 15min. I wiped it all down and reassembled. Since applying Frog Lube I have noticed that the carbon does not stick as easily to the parts and cleanings now no longer require a blast of brake cleaner.....simple wipe down with a soft towel is all thats needed. The SS Kit also runs reliably dry so no need to add oils which will cause problems as it gets dirty.
My latest use of Frog Lube came tonight when my sister in law decided to drop off her pistol to me for cleaning. Well apparently she'd spilled a botle of water in her purse about a week ago and never thought to take her pistol out of the purse and dry it off. End result is what you see pictured below in the "Before" picture. Well I wasn't sure what I was gonna do to get it cleaned up but finally decided I would see what Frog Lube would do with the rust since its seems to clean things really well. I disassembled the pistol and placed the parts on a pan in the oven to get them nice and warm. Once warm I coated everything in Frog Lube and back to the oven for 5min. I removed the parts and took some 0000 Steel Wool to the rusted areas while everything was still coated in Frog Lube. After a scrub with steel wool, I wiped everything down with a soft towel and to my amazement the pistol was cleaned better than new! Additionally, everything has a nice protective coating on it which hopefully will prevent future issues with rust.
I haven't tried it yet on my AR's, however I will most likely give it a shot in the very near future.
BEFORE
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb244/a996hawk/2012-07-20_16-26-25_612.jpg
AFTER
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb244/a996hawk/2012-07-20_22-58-09_928.jpg
^^^ Nice! Wait til she gets it back. She'll think she put an extra pack of mints or gum in her purse. :D
I recently fired took my AR to the range, first time since I'd frog-lubed it. Just like everyone said, it went from semi-lubed looking to wet within a few rounds and then settled back down once the gun cooled. Took her home and cleaned her up good, it went really well. Everything cleaned up really nice. I'm hooked so far. I've slowly begun frog-lubing a bunch of my other guns.
SomeOtherGuy
07-21-12, 11:48
I've been using Froglube for about two months now, both paste and liquid. I bought it based on the endorsements in this thread, but was very skeptical based on what looks to be shady marketing elsewhere. (Look at any Froglube thread on THR for a ridiculous number of two-post new users saying how it's better than gold.)
First use was the liquid on a Glock 17 I use for competition, and I used it both to clean and lube. It worked great at both, but Glocks run on almost anything, so this was merely positive.
Next I took a Spike's upper that has always worked perfectly (on SLIP2000). I completely disassembled the bcg and degreased everything, then I put all the loose parts into a 1-quart freezer bag with a modest pile (maybe 3-5cc) of paste froglube just heaped in, squeezed out the air and sealed it, and I put that out in noon sun on a black surface to heat for an hour. I don't know how hot it was, but definitely too hot to hold the metal parts. Brought that inside, took all the parts out of the bag and let them dry/solidify separately. I then reassembled the bcg and reinstalled it. Test firing had very sluggish function for the first 5 rounds or so, and perfect function after that. No malfunctions. It's now been through several use cycles with no issues, and feels very slick.
I've since repeated that process on two other bcgs, both brand new (no prior use), and each has worked perfectly in its new upper, without even much sluggish function. If you try this method, use the firing pin to clean out the firing pin channel in the bolt BEFORE you reassemble it, as there will be some solidified paste in that channel. By the way, I am being extra careful about the possibility of slamfires if the pin were to stick, but have had no issues. I am wiping the pin off completely before reassembly, while leaving other parts with all the Froglube that solidified on them.
I don't know how good the plastic bag in sunlight method is, but it seems to get everything coated well and is low effort. If you're an armorer I suppose I would try a crockpot instead.
The main things I notice about Froglube are:
-very slick function, even when it's cold and paste consistency;
-very little carbon sticks to parts - noticeably less than with SLIP2000, which I already thought was great. Cleaning the BCGs is basically a matter of wiping parts with a paper towel and then applying a bit of new Froglube. It's never been easier, and SLIP2000 already made cleaning pretty easy.
-liquid Froglube works well as a bore cleaner as long as you make multiple passes with the patch.
-if you apply paste Froglube to the outside of a barrel and get it warm (like with 50 rounds in two minutes - I would guesstimate a temperature in the 170-200 degree range), when cool the surface is basically dry but still seems to have a coating over the phosphate. I have not tried to test the corrosion resistance of this coating.
I consider my testing to be still at an early stage, but so far this stuff works great.
One note: I've seen a few comments about more wear after using Froglube. The two brand-new BCGs that got it don't show any unusual wear so far. The older BCG that I first treated looked very shiny and with lots of wear spots - right after being treated and before being used at all (post-Froglube). It appears to me that Froglube cleans out crud and leaves a shinier look than the pure liquid oils, so switching to it may give the appearance of all of a sudden having more bare metal, when it was actually bare metal already but not as noticeable. Of course I'll be keeping an eye on wear indicators with all the parts I'm using Froglube on.
Littlelebowski
07-21-12, 11:51
Good post, SOG.
Good post.
If you try this method, use the firing pin to clean out the firing pin channel in the bolt BEFORE you reassemble it, as there will be some solidified paste in that channel. By the way, I am being extra careful about the possibility of slamfires if the pin were to stick, but have had no issues. I am wiping the pin off completely before reassembly, while leaving other parts with all the Froglube that solidified on them.
^ I've always left the excess paste on my BCG because I like to run an exceptionally wet weapon. I haven't had any issue or noticed anything out of the ordinary in regards to dimpled primers after probably hundreds of cold lube chargings. No problem with being extra careful, just relaying my experience!
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb244/a996hawk/2012-07-20_16-26-25_612.jpg
That looks awful. What's the slide made of?
madcratebuilder
07-22-12, 07:00
How about Eezox?
I use at least one full quart of Eezox a year dealing with mil-surp restorations. Eezox is the best cleaner, solvent and rust preventive I have ever used...by far. What Eezox is not is a good BCG lube for AR's. I haven't done any testing with Eezox on BCG's, I just prefer a more traditional lube for the BCG's.
I do use Eezox on the surface, all small parts, barrels of every fire arm I own, in excess of two hundred now. The protection it leaves on any metal surface is unsurpassed.
OK, so I've read the entire thread (ugh), and have some questions.
1) Does FL cancel out the need to run an AR 'wet?' Ie, don't throw a couple drops down the holes onto the bolt?
2) When you're done for the day, wipe the gun down and then re-apply, correct? Can this be done immediately, while the gun is still hot, or should it be done once the FL rehardens (and then using whatever method to warm the new FL onto the firearm)?
Thanks.
I run it wet. Works just as well when applied like you'd normally lube.
I don't wipe/re-apply after shooting. I let it paste up, and clean after a few months. My AR took a class and multiple trips to the range in between detailed cleanings. All i used was a boresnake after each trip.
Littlelebowski
07-22-12, 08:54
OK, so I've read the entire thread (ugh), and have some questions.
1) Does FL cancel out the need to run an AR 'wet?' Ie, don't throw a couple drops down the holes onto the bolt?
2) When you're done for the day, wipe the gun down and then re-apply, correct? Can this be done immediately, while the gun is still hot, or should it be done once the FL rehardens (and then using whatever method to warm the new FL onto the firearm)?
Thanks.
Just wipe it on, shoot, clean in 500-2k rds.
http://www.amazon.com/Beverage-Warmers-Candles-Cozy-Up/dp/B001QI3C5U
I don't know if this was mentioned yet, but this candle warmer plate works wonders for frog lube application. Just get a petrie dish or small ceramic dipping sauce dish and a paint brush and the rest speaks for itself. The frog lube melts really quick this way and is ready to apply within seconds.
Hope this helps :cool:
I use at least one full quart of Eezox a year dealing with mil-surp restorations. Eezox is the best cleaner, solvent and rust preventive I have ever used...by far. What Eezox is not is a good BCG lube for AR's. I haven't done any testing with Eezox on BCG's, I just prefer a more traditional lube for the BCG's.
I do use Eezox on the surface, all small parts, barrels of every fire arm I own, in excess of two hundred now. The protection it leaves on any metal surface is unsurpassed.
Got any brain cells left madcrate? I agree--Eezox is great as a solvent and protectant. (Less so as a lubricant). But holy cow that stuff rots your brain. I use a respirator. No kidding.
Got any brain cells left madcrate? I agree--Eezox is great as a solvent and protectant. (Less so as a lubricant). But holy cow that stuff rots your brain. I use a respirator. No kidding.
Maybe that's their marketing ploy. The more you use it, the less you're able to realize that you should stop using it.
Maybe that's their marketing ploy. The more you use it, the less you're able to realize that you should stop using it.
Huffing Eezox--the next drug problem?
Sorry. Off topic... My bad. Frog lube lets you walk on water, cooks your breakfast, and can be used as a personal lubricant.
Dr.Venkman
07-23-12, 22:22
I use frog lube on all my firearms and that stuff is awesome. I store a loaded mag and the rounds are covered in frog lube and have never had a problem.
I use frog lube on all my firearms and that stuff is awesome. I store a loaded mag and the rounds are covered in frog lube and have never had a problem.
:confused:
...why? Why would you put something that contains a penetrating "oil" all over your ammunition?
snakedoctor
07-24-12, 14:48
I use frog lube on all my firearms and that stuff is awesome. I store a loaded mag and the rounds are covered in frog lube and have never had a problem.
:blink: You may want to rethink that one buddy
Genuinely asking: Why does he need to re-think that? You didn't bother to specify, and are presuming that your statement is like a "given" in a geometry problem. Take a step back from it and look at it on the basis that that might not be a given at ALL....
Because 1) FrogLube doesn't contain a penetrating oil? Or, 2) because it does, but putting a penetrating oil on ammo isn't something worthy of concern in the long term?
I've not been shy about lubing steel-case ammo IOT ensure it doesn't bind in magazines -- filling mags AND emptying them in the traditional, fun fashion -- but even when I did, I'd shoot that ammo off fairly quickly even if there was a shadow of a hint of a chance the ammo would get deadlined.
Even cheap ammo ain't so cheap that it's worth getting screwed up, and while I can see lubed cases being of no concern in the short term when one is going to be expending the rounds soon afterwards, is good ammo sufficiently whatever-tight to resist the effects of something that's made to....well....penetrate...?
Hit Search and found some lube questions regarding ammo and lube in that subforum, but it was all specific to case-lube for the purposes of reloading (resizing/trimming, prevent cases sticking to dies)). Even then, the folks speaking to that talk about lube possibly fouling primer pockets in particular, so they add isopropyl alcohol and the like to ensure that excess dries. Point being, they use it to perform specific tasks, then make efforts to get rid of it; I can't imagine lubricants can be any good for the powder....
'Course, there's may be something I'm waaaayyy misunderstanding about reloading, too....
Would love to know.
sinlessorrow
07-29-12, 23:27
Genuinely asking: Why does he need to re-think that? You didn't bother to specify, and are presuming that your statement is like a "given" in a geometry problem. Take a step back from it and look at it on the basis that that might not be a given at ALL....
Because 1) FrogLube doesn't contain a penetrating oil? Or, 2) because it does, but putting a penetrating oil on ammo isn't something worthy of concern in the long term?
I've not been shy about lubing steel-case ammo IOT ensure it doesn't bind in magazines -- filling mags AND emptying them in the traditional, fun fashion -- but even when I did, I'd shoot that ammo off fairly quickly even if there was a shadow of a hint of a chance the ammo would get deadlined.
Even cheap ammo ain't so cheap that it's worth getting screwed up, and while I can see lubed cases being of no concern in the short term when one is going to be expending the rounds soon afterwards, is good ammo sufficiently whatever-tight to resist the effects of something that's made to....well....penetrate...?
Hit Search and found some lube questions regarding ammo and lube in that subforum, but it was all specific to case-lube for the purposes of reloading (resizing/trimming, prevent cases sticking to dies)). Even then, the folks speaking to that talk about lube possibly fouling primer pockets in particular, so they add isopropyl alcohol and the like to ensure that excess dries. Point being, they use it to perform specific tasks, then make efforts to get rid of it; I can't imagine lubricants can be any good for the powder....
'Course, there's may be something I'm waaaayyy misunderstanding about reloading, too....
Would love to know.
agreed, I have been known myself to coat steel cased ammo in lube.
without it they would cause stoppages from being so dry and gritty when being extracted from the mag and in 2,000+ rounds of steel I have never had an issue.
I may have to give this lube a try, Im pretty sold on Slip2000, but I am always looking for something that is even less toxic and still works like SLIP.
so before I buy, paste or liquid?
so before I buy, paste or liquid?
That is the 1 Million dollar question for myself also.
That is the 1 Million dollar question for myself also.
Buy both and blend to the consistency you prefer.
I just bought both. It isn't that much to get a 'kit' with 4oz of each, the microfiber towel and a brush. Ought to last a long time/lube a lot of guns.
sinlessorrow
07-30-12, 00:24
Buy both and blend to the consistency you prefer.
thanks, I just ordered the 4oz kit so that will give me the brush, towel, and 4oz of both paste and liquid.
so if I am reading this right even the liquid will be slightly pastey until heated up? I hope thats correct cause having a lube that doesnt run everywhere when being setup will be nice
Buy both and blend to the consistency you prefer.
Well that would just be too easy right? Ok ordered the kit.
thanks, I just ordered the 4oz kit so that will give me the brush, towel, and 4oz of both paste and liquid.
so if I am reading this right even the liquid will be slightly pastey until heated up? I hope thats correct cause having a lube that doesnt run everywhere when being setup will be nice
The lube isn't pasty at room temp in the bottle. When it's a thin layer, it will be.
The lube isn't pasty at room temp in the bottle. When it's a thin layer, it will be.
Yep, and this can be modified by heating the paste until liquid and mix them until you get the results you want. You can vary it anywhere between the consistency of the liquid to that of the paste.
sinlessorrow
07-30-12, 08:58
Thanks everyone, my kit should be here by the end of the week. Ill update after ive had a chance to test it out.
If it works like SLIP itll become my new lube, the fact that IG swears by it says alot
I have been on the fence about frog lube. I use Slip2000 725 cleaner, slip2000 gun lube for lubrication, and Eezox as a protectant and couldn't be more pleased. It's gonna take some time to switch over to something new...
Thanks everyone, my kit should be here by the end of the week. Ill update after ive had a chance to test it out.
If it works like SLIP itll become my new lube, the fact that IG swears by it says alot
I used to really dislike the stuff, but a lot of people like IG have informed me that it's worked for them in the real world, so I tried it again. I do know other people that I trust, as well, who have had excess wear on pistols like Wilson Combat 1911's and other tighter fitted weapons, but for the M4/AR platform, where there are no side-loading forces, and "being slick" is more important than preventing wear, I think it's the way to go. However, I have also seen tests in which it did great in preventing wear.
Either way, I am going to run a carbine course with it later this year and further evaluate, but so far I love it.
I finally tried some Froglube and that stuff is amazing on how it dissolves carbon.
sinlessorrow
08-02-12, 16:26
ok got my frog lube today.
left the BCG and CH out in the sun for 15 minutes and applied the paste to all the parts and the inside of the upper like I would any other lube.
Ill keep yall updated after i shoot with it but first impressions the Paste is slick! I was not expecting that, I cant wait to see it slick up into a lube.
I have a feeling this will be great lube. The fact that its edible, doesnt stain clothes, doesnt run, and smells like Mint helps alot:D
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4036.jpg
It does work pretty nicely, especially with clean up.
since froglube is made out of all natural stuff that's "food grade".....does froglube "spoil"?
mine still tastes fine after almost a year! :)
sinlessorrow
08-02-12, 18:20
i kinda want to stick my BCG in the oven for a few minutes with the door open just to watch the paste melt and re-solidify.
what do yall think?
i kinda want to stick my BCG in the oven for a few minutes with the door open just to watch the paste melt and re-solidify.
what do yall think?
Is there a hair dryer in the house? Or a heat gun?
sinlessorrow
08-02-12, 20:41
found a hair dryer and WOW!!!
here is what I found.
first applied.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4036.jpg
after a little bit of blowing action(took 20 seconds)
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2793.jpg
and after another 4 minutes of sitting in the rifle
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_4716.jpg
this stuff is no joke, it really does start as a paste and after a little heat it slicks up into a liquid, and after a few minutes of sitting it turns back into a paste......my mind is blown. I do believe I have found the holy grail of lubrication.
DIRTMAN556
08-03-12, 00:35
Another froglube convert!
LeipersForkFirearms
08-04-12, 14:45
We just got in a shipment of the new Wipes and spray bottles....Ill post back in a few days once ive tried them out. Has anyone else tried the wipes yet?
I didn't know they made FL wipes...
LeipersForkFirearms
08-04-12, 20:37
Yes sir! Just rolled off the line, We are one of the first to pick them up.
sinlessorrow
08-04-12, 22:43
Yes sir! Just rolled off the line, We are one of the first to pick them up.
interesting, their Paste is amazing stuff.
I have some if the wipes. They work great for quick cleaning and wiping things down when in a hurry.
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
skullworks
08-05-12, 12:11
FrogLube is launching a new product at the West Coast SEAL Reunion in a few weeks. Just saying. :cool:
sinlessorrow
08-05-12, 13:18
FrogLube is launching a new product at the West Coast SEAL Reunion in a few weeks. Just saying. :cool:
Details?
skullworks
08-05-12, 13:22
Solvent.
sinlessorrow
08-05-12, 16:45
Solvent.
hmmmmm could be promising. if its USDA approved and edible and still minty ill buy some.
another good thing I have found about this paste....it completely repels dust and hairs. I have 2 cats where I live and I used to find hair all over the BCG, well not anymore.
hmmmmm could be promising. if its USDA approved and edible and still minty ill buy some.
another good thing I have found about this paste....it completely repels dust and hairs. I have 2 cats where I live and I used to find hair all over the BCG, well not anymore.
I can attest to the fact that CLP attracts that stuff like crazy! I have not really seen it one way or another with FL, but CLP is hell with hair.
Regarding sinlessorrow's photos a few posts up: Is that how wet the BCG should be when using FrogLube? Mine's maybe half that wet. Just curious.
sinlessorrow
08-05-12, 22:13
Regarding sinlessorrow's photos a few posts up: Is that how wet the BCG should be when using FrogLube? Mine's maybe half that wet. Just curious.
I used the paste and heated it up with a hair dryer to slick it up.
this is what the BCG looks like when the paste drys. my last pic didnt show it very well.
I have not had a chance to test it in live fire yet because I sadly was in the ER friday when I should have been shooting.
but here is a better pic of the paste that has been turned to liquid then dried back up
PS: when its a paste its still incredibly slick, paste form is slightly less slick than SLIP2000EWL is.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_8658.jpg
I recently got some and seasoned my 4 ar's. So far I am impressed. Even after I had cleaned them then applied the froglube there was still black coming off.
I just started using Froglube paste on my handguns (both 1911s and polymer frame) , and seems to work great. I have my first AR on order, and will be using Froglube on it as soon as it arrives unless I read on this forum that AR shooters had a bad experience.
One big plus of Froglube is that the garage doesnt smell bad after, clean up is really easy, and rags can be washed with other clothes. So far so good on the handguns.
Yes, I couldnt help myself and had to taste it before its first use. Tastes like chicken.
unclerandy
08-19-12, 19:17
1. Do you pay attention, worry or care if the liquid gets into the gas tube when treating and cleaning the barrel? If yes how do you prevent it from getting in?
2. Do you treat the buffer tube, buffer and spring?
3. Do you treat all the trigger assembly components?
It's kinda like the little old lady in the Frank's Hot Sauce commercial says, "I put that shit on everything!"
:D
unclerandy
08-19-12, 19:34
It's kinda like the little old lady in the Frank's Hot Sauce commercial says, "I put that shit on everything!"
:D
How about question 1.?
I don't worry about it too much. I smear a little paste on the outside surfaces of the charging handle and nothing in the gas key, so the gas tube is basically free of lube.
A good rule of thumb is to smear it on everyplace you see the parkerizing or anodizing showing friction wear. Leave everything else either dry or only coat with the thinnest of layers.
skullworks
08-20-12, 04:04
How about question 1.?
Don't worry about it. You can't get enough in there to get any adverse effects (unless, I guess, you take a caulking gun and press as much froglube paste as you can into the gas tube from the receiver end. But if you're willing to do that then there's other places you can stick that caulking gun...;))
As for question 2; I dab some paste on the spring just to get rid of the "sprooing" sound. Before froglube I used TW25B for the same effect.
And question 3; I dab some froglube liquid on all the sear engagement surfaces. I also put a drop on the face of the hammer to minimize the friction between the hammer and the BCG.
As to the BCG I treat all of it with the paste per the froglube directions, leaving a very thin coating on all surfaces. I also dab some extra paste on the exterior bearing surfaces of the bolt carrier. I add a few drops of liquid in the carrier key and on the gas rings. I also smear some on the cam pin during assembly. Works for me.
1. Do you pay attention, worry or care if the liquid gets into the gas tube when treating and cleaning the barrel? If yes how do you prevent it from getting in?
I don't use froglube in my barrel. I still have a bunch of CLP for cleaning carbon fouling. But no matter what you're using, I don't see how you'd get a bunch of the stuff in the gas tube. A drop or so might get in there if you turn the gun upside down while the bore is soaking, but that's about it.
2. Do you treat the buffer tube, buffer and spring?
Hell NO! Those parts should be bone dry. Froglube works good on parts that get warm. It starts flowing as the bolt group warms up.
The action spring and buffer don't warm up. So in cool weather the froglube would just gel up... in hot weather it'll just pool and/or leak out the weep hole. Makes no sense to me.
3. Do you treat all the trigger assembly components?
Not really. Froglube will make it down to those parts with normal firing. I might put a little on the pins and stuff during assembly, but generally I ignore the lower.
sinlessorrow
08-24-12, 21:19
OK I finally got to the range after all this time of being sick....I have to say frog lube is amazing. I have had the paste on the whole bolt carrier and bolt, took my new BCM rifle to the range and put 600 rounds through it and the froglube ran great. I did not need to relube at all during that time, it was still very very slick and wet at the end of the 2hrs and the made the new rifle run amazingly.
Once I got home the Froglube had already turned back into a paste on the BCG and made cleanup super easy, all it required was a simple wipe down, by far the easiest clean up I have ever had on my rifle. Overall I am impressed with Frog Lube.
ETA: it took about half a magazine to heat the paste into a liquid and it stayed a liquid for the 2hrs I was shooting, It took a 30 minute drive before it was paste on the BCG again.
bluecanary
08-27-12, 01:06
OK I finally got to the range after all this time of being sick....I have to say frog lube is amazing.
ETA: it took about half a magazine to heat the paste into a liquid and it stayed a liquid for the 2hrs I was shooting, It took a 30 minute drive before it was paste on the BCG again.
That makes me worried. Do you think there is damage or wear occurring before the product becomes liquid?
skullworks
08-27-12, 01:29
That makes me worried. Do you think there is damage or wear occurring before the product becomes liquid?
No. Because the product is acting more like a grease before it become liquid and starts acting like an oil - so it will still protect and lurbicate (just not like an oil). Also, the contact will still be between two FrogLubed surfaces, not between two unprotected surfaces.
Have you tried cycling a FrogLube-treated firearm when it's cool? It will still feel much smoother than most firearms will feel with any other type of lubricant. Now, strip that firearm from all types of lube and compare what it feels like to cycle it dry.
To me a cool firearm will feel like:
FrogLube>Lube>Stripped
Whereas if your concerns were correct it would feel like:
Lube>Stripped/FrogLube
Littlelebowski
08-27-12, 05:48
That makes me worried. Do you think there is damage or wear occurring before the product becomes liquid?
You are over thinking this.
sinlessorrow
08-27-12, 07:17
No. Because the product is acting more like a grease before it become liquid and starts acting like an oil - so it will still protect and lurbicate (just not like an oil). Also, the contact will still be between two FrogLubed surfaces, not between two unprotected surfaces.
Have you tried cycling a FrogLube-treated firearm when it's cool? It will still feel much smoother than most firearms will feel with any other type of lubricant. Now, strip that firearm from all types of lube and compare what it feels like to cycle it dry.
To me a cool firearm will feel like:
FrogLube>Lube>Stripped
Whereas if your concerns were correct it would feel like:
Lube>Stripped/FrogLube
Exactly. The paste acts like a grease before it heats up, once it heats up its like any other liquid lube. It does everything it says it does. Even as a paste I would say its still slicker than CLP on a good day.
That makes me worried. Do you think there is damage or wear occurring before the product becomes liquid?
You're thinking of gritty Toof Paste. It's not like that at all. I remember thinking that too... before I got some of the stuff in front of me.
Whitebrad25
08-27-12, 14:27
I love frog lube. I use it on all of my firearms excluding .22s. It would probably work fine for them but some part of me just sees it as very gummy and the .22s are dirty enough.
I love frog lube. I use it on all of my firearms excluding .22s. It would probably work fine for them but some part of me just sees it as very gummy and the .22s are dirty enough.
Never an issue for me. For my 22lr AR Conversion I apply with heat and allow it to soak in then polish clean. No other lube needed and cleans up with a cloth. For my rimfire pistols I apply a very light coating to the action to lube it....as in rub a little on my finger and rub that on the appropriate areas. Sounds like you're using too much lube.
Whitebrad25
08-27-12, 14:49
It isn't that I use a lot or too much, it is the paste-y ness of the froglube. I am sure it works fine but this is my reservation.
It isn't that I use a lot or too much, it is the paste-y ness of the froglube. I am sure it works fine but this is my reservation.
I agree. My 22s don't get hot enough to keep the juices flowing with froglube. That's ok though... it's so good in the AR, I still love it.
I've found that Astroglide does provide good lubrication with my piston parts under rapid cycling in saline environments. Corrosion protection has not been an issue, as my exposure times are generally limited and I do rinse or shower after exposure to harsh environmental conditions. I do have some concerns as there have been multiple incidents in which Astroglide's use was associated with accidental (although others have insisted they were negligent) discharges.
But you say you're using it on firearms, eh?
That is the single funniest thing I have read in a very long time. Hats off to montanadave for making me cry for the first time in a very long time.
I am way less knowledgeable than most people here on about everything. From a simpletons viewpoint, who purchased it and is currently giving it a try, I see the advantages being..
1. The CLP is tackier than other CLP's so it says put longer where you put it.
2. The paste is like a low melting point wax so when it heats up it liquifies, and when it cools it solidifies, so as it cools it stays where it is.
3. Non toxic
Cons
1. More expensive
To me it works, and so far I like it and will buy it until I find out any long term negatives or find something similar at a lower price point. If I had to make a fiscal decision for large agency to maintain many firearms, I wouldn't purchase it unless they could sell it in bulk at a price point comparable to other CLPs/Grease.
sinlessorrow
08-29-12, 21:02
frog lube is more expensive, but I have found that with the paste I do not use nearly as much as I do with other lubes.
frog lube is more expensive, but I have found that with the paste I do not use nearly as much as I do with other lubes.
Same with the liquid. I go heavy if I clean or am just converting an AR to it. But after that it's just 3-5 drops of lube to start out a shoot.
Rayrevolver
08-30-12, 08:31
My only malfunction in 3 carbine classes came during a rainy Seattle day in a mud pit. I goofed off during lunch and forgot to lube. My LMT choked in the 9th hour of a 10 hour day. Can't remember round count prior.
That said, is the Frog Lube paste/liquid combo something that will stay put even on a rainy day and forgetting to lube at lunch? Is that too much to ask?
I was using Breakfree CLP at the time but have since moved to using a combo of Colt T-6 Grease and Weaponshield.
That said, is the Frog Lube paste/liquid combo something that will stay put even on a rainy day and forgetting to lube at lunch? Is that too much to ask?
Good question. I've never tried it in a really wet/rainy condition.
I could let a carbine heat up in the sun to get the lube flowing then hammer it with the hose to see. :confused:
Littlelebowski
08-30-12, 09:13
That said, is the Frog Lube paste/liquid combo something that will stay put even on a rainy day and forgetting to lube at lunch? Is that too much to ask?
Not too much to ask of FL.
skullworks
08-30-12, 14:25
Just for the record; what lubes have been documented to do that?
(I'm guessing Slip2000 EWL might be on that list, but if we gonna poke fingers at what products won't do what we should note whether or not any other product will or won't do it.)
sinlessorrow
08-30-12, 14:42
Not too much to ask of FL.
Froglube does good in rain. It will bead the rain and wick it away. I have not tried it like in the ocean or a pool but as far as rain goes it seems to work through it.
viperashes
08-30-12, 14:54
Froglube does good in rain. It will bead the rain and wick it away. I have not tried it like in the ocean or a pool but as far as rain goes it seems to work through it.
Concidering that it was formulated from similar stuff to that which is used in food processing equipment and rollercoasters, I would bet that it does quite well "in the wet". I don't want to be the guy to throw my rifle in a pond then try to shoot it, concidering all my rifles are high-end builds, but I would venture to guess that it would probably be fine lube wise.
Quick question. Once I have applied the FL as per the instructions and wipe off the excess, am I supposed to reapply a light coat before I shoot it? Or do I shoot it "dry"?
Quick question. Once I have applied the FL as per the instructions and wipe off the excess, am I supposed to reapply a light coat before I shoot it? Or do I shoot it "dry"?
It's liquifies when your bolt group warms up.
Yep. Once you use the stuff, it'll become obvious to you.
sinlessorrow
08-30-12, 16:03
Quick question. Once I have applied the FL as per the instructions and wipe off the excess, am I supposed to reapply a light coat before I shoot it? Or do I shoot it "dry"?
After eah range trip i wipe down the BCG and put a new layer of paste like I would any other lube, when the shootig starts it liquifys into a coating of oil.
skullworks
08-30-12, 16:04
And if there's one weapons system where FrogLube really shows it's mettle it's the AR. I use it on everything from from my Buck Mark .22 to my Ithaca 12 gauge.
Pistol Shooter
08-30-12, 16:22
This thread really has some legs. ;) Plus good information.
Before I used Froglube, I used Wilson Combat Ultima Lube Grease and Oil.
The Wilson products are good but Froglube trumps them for AR's IMO.
I drank the kool-aide; Love the smell, 6940 running like a sewing machine. Brass cases, steel cases, no FTF, FTE. Goodbye Mobil 1, hello Frog Lube.
I only have 500 some odd rounds through my AR so far. I frog lubed it right out of the box. Great so far.
viperashes
08-31-12, 00:32
I drank the kool-aide; Love the smell, 6940 running like a sewing machine. Brass cases, steel cases, no FTF, FTE. Goodbye Mobil 1, hello Frog Lube.
This. I used to use 5W20. I use froglube in everything from my carry G19 to my suppressed SBR and SPR clone.
I just ordered some FL that I intend on solely using on my ARs. I currently use FP10 for lube and have been pleased with its performance on my pistols. On the ARs my only complaint was the lube would run down the receiver while stored vertically in the safe. From what I have heard from FL users, this problem will be a thing of the past.
sinlessorrow
08-31-12, 22:10
I just ordered some FL that I intend on solely using on my ARs. I currently use FP10 for lube and have been pleased with its performance on my pistols. On the ARs my only complaint was the lube would run down the receiver while stored vertically in the safe. From what I have heard from FL users, this problem will be a thing of the past.
you will never have runny lube disappear ever again. These pics are of my BCG after a week of sitting vertically in my gun safe. You can see where the lube never ran and how its just stayed put.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6346.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_5718.jpg
Pistol Shooter
09-01-12, 16:00
you will never have runny lube disappear ever again. These pics are of my BCG after a week of sitting vertically in my gun safe. You can see where the lube never ran and how its just stayed put.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_6346.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_5718.jpg
Fine pictures.
Worth a thousand words. :)
skullworks
09-01-12, 17:58
That is quite a bit more than I apply to my BCG; not that it's gonna create a problem or anything, just saying.
Tatatatatatapatalk 2
I've been using frog lube for the past 6 months or so on my AR's and handguns. The stuff is great! I'm a believer.
sinlessorrow
09-01-12, 18:19
That is quite a bit more than I apply to my BCG; not that it's gonna create a problem or anything, just saying.
Tatatatatatapatalk 2
Yeah i lube it like I do with a liquid lol, extra wet.
sinlessorrow......nice pictures
sinlessorrow
09-01-12, 20:31
got around to cleaning off my computer desk today:D
anyways, here are a few pics of my BCG after 360 rounds and letting it sit for a few hours, when I left the range it looked like there was CLP sprayed all inside the upper. If you look closely you can see how the frog lube has turned back into a paste mixed with the fouling, this makes clean up incredibly easy. Frog Lube has made clean up the easiest it has ever been.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3485.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3449.jpg
here is the inside of the upper.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2973.jpghttp://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_9218.jpghttp://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_8795.jpg
got around to cleaning off my computer desk today:D
anyways, here are a few pics of my BCG after 360 rounds and letting it sit for a few hours, when I left the range it looked like there was CLP sprayed all inside the upper. If you look closely you can see how the frog lube has turned back into a paste mixed with the fouling, this makes clean up incredibly easy. Frog Lube has made clean up the easiest it has ever been.
Yep... the stuff works great!
Jumped on the band wagon. I hope it"s as good as everyone says! A tube of "grease" and a bottle of lube was like $34.00.
Jumped on the band wagon. I hope it"s as good as everyone says! A tube of "grease" and a bottle of lube was like $34.00.
Grease?
sinlessorrow
09-02-12, 21:38
Grease?
Paste.
Paste.
That's what I ment sorry about that.
I'll try anything...just ordered the paste and liquid kit
I'll give an update after i go to the range.
Is it just me or does it seem that Frog Lube is basically wax?
sinlessorrow
09-03-12, 18:00
Is it just me or does it seem that Frog Lube is basically wax?
I dont think so, its more like a grease that liquifies.
yhmspecter
09-03-12, 18:41
got around to cleaning off my computer desk today:D
anyways, here are a few pics of my BCG after 360 rounds and letting it sit for a few hours, when I left the range it looked like there was CLP sprayed all inside the upper. If you look closely you can see how the frog lube has turned back into a paste mixed with the fouling, this makes clean up incredibly easy. Frog Lube has made clean up the easiest it has ever been.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3485.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3449.jpg
here is the inside of the upper.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_2973.jpghttp://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_9218.jpghttp://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa273/SinlesSorrow/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_8795.jpg
I would have to agree with you here, I havent been shooting ARs as long as some of you on here, but I did experience what it was like to clean up before I started to use Frog lube, and it was not as effortless as it is now running Frog lube..I run it in all firearms..it works great, and the paste lasts for a long time..It is expensive at first but the benefits are apparent..
You don't need to clean. You're just wiping out good froglube. It'll re-liquify next shoot, Jack.
yhmspecter
09-04-12, 09:22
You don't need to clean. You're just wiping out good froglube. It'll re-liquify next shoot, Jack.
It is a rare occurrence that I actually clean..I generally add four or five drops of the liquid to the BCG and shoot.
It is a rare occurrence that I actually clean..I generally add four or five drops of the liquid to the BCG and shoot.
I leave my house gun clean... but on my regular range blasters, I do the 5 drop slopp! :cool:
sinlessorrow
09-04-12, 12:48
I leave my house gun clean... but on my regular range blasters, I do the 5 drop slopp! :cool:
Thats what I do too, if you depend on it make sure you wipe it down after your done abusing it:D
snakedoctor
09-04-12, 20:25
FrogLube Solvent arrived in the mail today. I'll give it a whirl this weekend after my 3Gun match.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8322/7933810598_5047775945_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/57942327@N05/7933810598/)
skullworks
09-05-12, 06:44
Snakedoctor, make sure to warm the parts - my experience is that the solvent likes heat just like the paste does.
Tatatatatatapatalk 2
snakedoctor
09-05-12, 07:58
Snakedoctor, make sure to warm the parts - my experience is that the solvent likes heat just like the paste does.
Tatatatatatapatalk 2
Will do skullworks. How long have you been using the solvent?
skullworks
09-05-12, 08:15
A few days.
Tatatatatatapatalk 2
Where did you guys get the 8oz solvent? I have only found the 1oz bottles.
Thanks
Harold
skullworks
09-05-12, 08:58
I got mine via the Swedish distribution channels found at FrogLubeSverige.se (http://www.FrogLubeSverige.se).
snakedoctor
09-05-12, 09:23
Where did you guys get the 8oz solvent? I have only found the 1oz bottles.
Thanks
Harold
Make sure you use "DISCOUNT" for 10% off your order.
http://www.rmcoxyoke.com/froglube1?b=1
Thanks to both of you.
Harold
Seems like most of people use the paste and brush. Who prefers the gel or is it simply 6 of one, half dozen of another?
sinlessorrow
09-05-12, 19:46
Seems like most of people use the paste and brush. Who prefers the gel or is it simply 6 of one, half dozen of another?
6 of one and half a dozen of another. They both do the same thing, the paste is a paste that turns to a liquid, when you apply the liquid after a few minutes it turns to a paste and the re liquefies when shooting.
The liquid is good for getting to places the paste can be difficult getting to, or a quick addition of lube to the gas rings through the exhaust ports.
SomeOtherGuy
09-05-12, 22:39
Seems like most of people use the paste and brush. Who prefers the gel or is it simply 6 of one, half dozen of another?
I use the paste anywhere I can get my finger, and the liquid (it's like a lotion consistency) as a bore cleaner and any spots I want to lube but can't get to. I prefer the paste. From what I understand, the paste is the standard form and the liquid is basically the paste material dissolved or suspended in a carrying oil.
If I wanted to use a liquid all the time, I would just keep using SLIP2000.
skullworks
09-06-12, 01:57
From what I understand, the paste is the standard form and the liquid is basically the paste material dissolved or suspended in a carrying oil.
James Yeager posted an interview with Larry Lasky on youtube a few weeks ago. In it Larry says that the paste is derived from the liquid by "cooking"it longer.
He also notes that the old formula liquid often required that you shook the bottle before use, which is not required with the new formula.
Tatatatatatapatalk 2
I saw that Yeager video earlier. Of course right after I posted here I saw another vid that showed the gel use for cleaning the barrel and bore since you obviously can't brush it. Two of my buddies were in that class with yeager and Lasky. They raved about the product. That's what got me looking into it.
"We don't got time to be shakin' stuff." :lol:
I use the paste anywhere I can get my finger, and the liquid (it's like a lotion consistency) as a bore cleaner and any spots I want to lube but can't get to. I prefer the paste. From what I understand, the paste is the standard form and the liquid is basically the paste material dissolved or suspended in a carrying oil.
If I wanted to use a liquid all the time, I would just keep using SLIP2000.
This is not true, anymore. The liquid is now 100% bio-based as well (says 98% on the bottle, just like the paste, technically).
The old formula was 50% PAO.
I tested them both, and the new formula has the same burn-off characteristics, and the slightly better anti-corrosion properties. It's a winner. More bio-product at no downside I can determine.
SomeOtherGuy
09-06-12, 09:16
This is not true, anymore. The liquid is now 100% bio-based as well (says 98% on the bottle, just like the paste, technically).
The old formula was 50% PAO.
I tested them both, and the new formula has the same burn-off characteristics, and the slightly better anti-corrosion properties. It's a winner. More bio-product at no downside I can determine.
Good to know, thanks. I was basing my comments on the old formula and what I had read here. I have some liquid purchased from Midway several months ago and it separates in the bottle, so I'm guessing (?) I have the old formula.
If they're both essentially the same thing then I guess it's totally personal preference which one you use.
snakedoctor
09-06-12, 11:22
Just FYI guys, the New FrogLube Solvent is excellent at removing Locktite
skullworks
09-06-12, 12:21
I have some liquid purchased from Midway several months ago and it separates in the bottle, so I'm guessing (?) I have the old formula.
If the label is green on white background it's the old formula. If there's black and browns in the label and it says "New" and/or "Premium" under the frog you have the new formula.
skullworks
09-06-12, 12:22
Just FYI guys, the New FrogLube Solvent is excellent at removing Locktite
Hmm, is that a good thing or bad thing? :D
snakedoctor
09-06-12, 18:55
Hmm, is that a good thing or bad thing? :D
Could be a bad thing depending on how crazy you get with the solvent.
bluecanary
09-10-12, 20:10
I'm trying out FL for the first time. I am using the Liquid, as that is all they had at the store. I degreased the gun, and heated up the parts with a hair dryer. I put the liquid on using a small paint brush. However, after 3 hours, it is still wet to the touch. I thought it was supposed to absorb into the metal. Does the liquid not do that?
WARPIG [USMC]
09-10-12, 20:17
I'm trying out FL for the first time. I am using the Liquid, as that is all they had at the store. I degreased the gun, and heated up the parts with a hair dryer. I put the liquid on using a small paint brush. However, after 3 hours, it is still wet to the touch. I thought it was supposed to absorb into the metal. Does the liquid not do that?
Not going to completely absorb everything...it IS metal, after all...not very porous.
The liquid will always stay a liquid, the old formula would be about the consistency of hand lotion in sub freezing temperatures for me. The paste solidifies when it cools (think soft bacon grease in a pan) and will melt to the touch. 'Absorbing' isn't really the correct term. I guess you could 'season' your BCG like you would a cast iron pan...but that's just really too much...
I'm trying out FL for the first time. I am using the Liquid, as that is all they had at the store. I degreased the gun, and heated up the parts with a hair dryer. I put the liquid on using a small paint brush. However, after 3 hours, it is still wet to the touch. I thought it was supposed to absorb into the metal. Does the liquid not do that?
ETA: Beat me to it!
NoveskeFan
09-10-12, 20:22
I'm trying out FL for the first time. I am using the Liquid, as that is all they had at the store. I degreased the gun, and heated up the parts with a hair dryer. I put the liquid on using a small paint brush. However, after 3 hours, it is still wet to the touch. I thought it was supposed to absorb into the metal. Does the liquid not do that?
It sorta "waxes" over the metal. I go through a few "heat" cycles the first time applying froglube. I heat the parts with a heat gun, apply the paste (or liquid) and spread. After it cools to the "wax", I reheat and re-spread. Then wipe off the exterior parts. I usually leave a good coating on stuff like the BCG in my rifles and the slide rails of pistols. Pretty much wipe off non friction parts, but leave the rest to lube up during use.
Have any of you guys run frog lube for 500-1000 rounds over a short period of time ? If so how many times did you reapply ? Also did you notice much burn off on the bolt ?
This is the first lube I've used that literally lets the carbon get wiped away rather than cokeing up with burnt lube.
My only fear is will it lap and further perpetuate wear on the internals if it is not cleaned and reapplied regularly. Also curious as to how much burns off.
sinlessorrow
09-10-12, 21:04
Have any of you guys run frog lube for 500-1000 rounds over a short period of time ? If so how many times did you reapply ? Also did you notice much burn off on the bolt ?
This is the first lube I've used that literally lets the carbon get wiped away rather than cokeing up with burnt lube.
My only fear is will it lap and further perpetuate wear on the internals if it is not cleaned and reapplied regularly. Also curious as to how much burns off.
I put 700 rounds through my BCM the other day in one range sitting about 2hrs, no issues, the BCG is showing normal wear that I see from the ones that have used SLIP2000.
I have found very little burns off, the main place is the tail of the bolt but no lube will stay there, after the 700 rounds the rest of the BCG had the wax all over it mixed with carbon, so it was kind of bubbly, but it wiped right off with no scrubbing.
bluecanary
09-10-12, 21:24
It sorta "waxes" over the metal. I go through a few "heat" cycles the first time applying froglube. I heat the parts with a heat gun, apply the paste (or liquid) and spread. After it cools to the "wax", I reheat and re-spread. Then wipe off the exterior parts. I usually leave a good coating on stuff like the BCG in my rifles and the slide rails of pistols. Pretty much wipe off non friction parts, but leave the rest to lube up during use.
No "Waxing" with the liquid. It is still wet, but fairly thick. Not what I expected. Maybe the paste is different. If it says put, that will be nice. Otherwise, I don't see what all the fuss is about. Most lube migrates. The smell is nice tho! ;)
sinlessorrow
09-10-12, 21:53
No "Waxing" with the liquid. It is still wet, but fairly thick. Not what I expected. Maybe the paste is different. If it says put, that will be nice. Otherwise, I don't see what all the fuss is about. Most lube migrates. The smell is nice tho! ;)
the Lube was meant more as a cleaner from what I have read and the paste was their main lube. the paste stays put and waxes over after cooling from being a heated up.
I've only run a couple hundred rounds through an ar with this stuff. I like it for the ar but am skeptical about long term results. I would like to see see controlled lab tests and maybe see it run through the same mil standard tests slip 2k has been run through.
The feedback alone from you guys has convinced me to try it out but it neve hurts to know as much as you can about the limits of things like this especially since it is such a radical departure from what many of us are used to.
I love that it is nontoxic, smells good, and stays put. I guess time will tell.
sinlessorrow
09-10-12, 22:21
I've only run a couple hundred rounds through an ar with this stuff. I like it for the ar but am skeptical about long term results. I would like to see see controlled lab tests and maybe see it run through the same mil standard tests slip 2k has been run through.
The feedback alone from you guys has convinced me to try it out but it neve hurts to know as much as you can about the limits of things like this especially since it is such a radical departure from what many of us are used to.
I love that it is nontoxic, smells good, and stays put. I guess time will tell.
what concerns do you have?
skullworks
09-11-12, 01:34
[delete]
My primary concerns are
1. How does this stack up against other lubes in terms of preventing wear on components. Mainly because it is a paste and once the carbon and fouling get trapped in there does it turn more into a lapping compound when it gets real dirty ? Oil will usually allow the gritty stuff to travel a little. Also as a paste is it able to protect the metal surfaces as well as it does when it gets wet.
2. How does this stuff do in extreme cold ? How does it do exposed to dirt and sand ?
3. How does it stack up against break free, slip, and weaponshield in terms of corrosion protection.
4. Does it have a shelf life.
My primary concerns are
1. How does this stack up against other lubes in terms of preventing wear on components. Mainly because it is a paste and once the carbon and fouling get trapped in there does it turn more into a lapping compound when it gets real dirty ? Oil will usually allow the gritty stuff to travel a little. Also as a paste is it able to protect the metal surfaces as well as it does when it gets wet.
2. How does this stuff do in extreme cold ? How does it do exposed to dirt and sand ?
3. How does it stack up against break free, slip, and weaponshield in terms of corrosion protection.
4. Does it have a shelf life.
It didn't increase wear....it works as a great lubricant. Its paste version is only paste form at room temp.....turns to liquid once heated. As a liquid lube it allows carbon and gunk to flow just like oil.
Has been working great for me in terms of corrosion and rust prevention. Actually used it to successfully clean up a rusty gun to better than new.
I'm trying out FL for the first time. I am using the Liquid, as that is all they had at the store. I degreased the gun, and heated up the parts with a hair dryer. I put the liquid on using a small paint brush. However, after 3 hours, it is still wet to the touch. I thought it was supposed to absorb into the metal. Does the liquid not do that?
You may have to wipe a certain amount of excess off after it's cooled down. When we say "it absorbs into the metal" it doesn't mean every last drop. What you're describing is normal.
skullworks
09-11-12, 07:59
2. How does this stuff do in extreme cold ?
Define what "extreme cold" means to you?
This statement isfrom FrogLube:
FrogLube was designed for arctic use. It absorbs into the surface of metal. You may wipe away excess and operate your weapon 'dry'.
It has been field tested between -48F thru 140F.
If you can, download US Army Field Manual FM 31-70, Cold Weather Operations, it is the standard source we use for instructions. Before applying FrogLube for the first time, we recommend this procedure which is highlighted in the manual:
"DURING THE WINTER, WEAPONS MUST BE STRIPPED COM-
PLETELY AND CLEANED WITH A DRY CLEANING
SOLVENT TO REMOVE ALL LUBRICANTS AND RUST PREVENTION
COMPOUND."
How does it do exposed to dirt and sand ?
My experience is that FL-treated parts don't attract crap like oiled parts do; and once you start shooting the wicking action that you would see from Slip2000 etc will be the same with FL.
None of it will absorb into the metal. The paste/grease will more evenly coat it and then congeal when it cools. The liquid remains a liquid.
ETA: It can absorb into the parkerizing but not like people are thinking. It is marketed like people "season" their guns like a cast iron skillet, that is simply not the case.
Very good info gentlemen. My definition of cold will probably never reach -48* of cold so no worries there.
One last question. Let's say you are usingthis stuff during a class outdoors or out in the field for a few days and need to clean or relube the rifle. If you have no access to a heat source during reapplication is it ok to just slather on the paste without heating parts of the rifle up or should we use the liquid form instead ?
Thank you all for the responses.
Very good info gentlemen. My definition of cold will probably never reach -48* of cold so no worries there.
One last question. Let's say you are usingthis stuff during a class outdoors or out in the field for a few days and need to clean or relube the rifle. If you have no access to a heat source during reapplication is it ok to just slather on the paste without heating parts of the rifle up or should we use the liquid form instead ?
Thank you all for the responses.
Why not just carry the liquid at that point? Seems like it would do just fine that way. After all, the main point is that the rifle is lubed, not that is is lubed with a flavor of the week lube. Both forms have proven to be effective, choose which fits your application best. Lube at home with paste, lube elsewhere with liquid.
skullworks
09-11-12, 08:31
Let's say you are usingthis stuff during a class outdoors or out in the field for a few days and need to clean or relube the rifle. If you have no access to a heat source during reapplication is it ok to just slather on the paste without heating parts of the rifle up or should we use the liquid form instead ?
Yes, it's okay apply paste even when cool. One solution would otherwise be to do this right after you finished shooting, when the weapon is warm from use. But, if the firearm is cool and you just need to reapply some FL for good measures I see no problem with adding paste to it - in moderation - I've done so myself a few times. I usually use the liquid for field use though (and just add it to the BCG, and, if needed, wet a boresnake with it and run it through the barrel).
bluecanary
09-11-12, 09:01
You may have to wipe a certain amount of excess off after it's cooled down. When we say "it absorbs into the metal" it doesn't mean every last drop. What you're describing is normal.
This worries me tho. It is wet. If I were to wipe it, I'm afraid I'd wipe it all off
bluecanary
09-11-12, 09:04
the Lube was meant more as a cleaner from what I have read and the paste was their main lube. the paste stays put and waxes over after cooling from being a heated up.
Confused. So, I should not be using the Liquid as a primary lube?
skullworks
09-11-12, 09:04
Bluecanary, I would suggest you use the FL liquid as any other lubricant until you can get some FL paste.
skullworks
09-11-12, 09:10
Confused. So, I should not be using the Liquid as a primary lube?
You use the paste to treat the parts. The liquid can be used as any other lubricant and/or cleaner. Personally I treat all parts with the paste, then I use liquid on the FCG and gas rings etc, and to clean the bore.
bluecanary
09-12-12, 17:45
Today I stepped out and bought a little tub some of the paste. Tried it out on another gun. The paste and liquid are different. The paste congeals, the liquid stays wet. I wrote the Co. and they were quick to reply:
=================
-always default to the manufacturers instruction.
-you should be OK to wipe off the excess and run it, but if you want, you can run it wet to increase the absorption. With heat, it will absorb deeper and faster. Best heat is firing heat, that's when the gun gets hottest. FrogLube works wet or dry. Make sure you follow the manufacturers instructions also.
==================
I also asked what the self life was and they said "Decades". haha
sinlessorrow
09-12-12, 17:59
Very good info gentlemen. My definition of cold will probably never reach -48* of cold so no worries there.
One last question. Let's say you are usingthis stuff during a class outdoors or out in the field for a few days and need to clean or relube the rifle. If you have no access to a heat source during reapplication is it ok to just slather on the paste without heating parts of the rifle up or should we use the liquid form instead ?
Thank you all for the responses.
I posted pics a page or two ago of my BCG, after each range trip(generally 600-700 rounds) I wipe down the BCG and upper completely and reapply the paste, I do not heat it up or anything like that, its just not needed.
I posted pics a page or two ago of my BCG, after each range trip(generally 600-700 rounds) I wipe down the BCG and upper completely and reapply the paste, I do not heat it up or anything like that, its just not needed.
Hell yeah that's what I did last time! Wiped it down and reapplied Froglube paste on the BCG.
Here are some pictures of my Ferfrans/Adams Arms BCG (Froglubed) after shooting 500 rounds.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s274/jcaldito206/3cff1949.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s274/jcaldito206/c8557f66.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s274/jcaldito206/6aa24ea5.jpg
bluecanary
09-12-12, 23:04
I also like Slip 2000. I have used EWL to clean and was very impressed.
The last gun I "pasted", I had not shot in 2+ years. I scrubbed the bore with EWL, then 725 on some patches. Worked it till it was clean.
Then the gun parts went into the oven at 200*. After, 10 minutes or so, I put some FL liquid on a patch and scrubbed the bore again. The FL got even more dirt out.
Just received some of the new solvent. Have not had a chance to try it yet. I like the idea that it contains no harsh chemicals. But WOW..................they sure are proud of the stuff. $22.99 for a 8oz. bottle.
sinlessorrow
09-15-12, 12:08
An update as far as rust prevention goes, froglube works great.
I had left my gun out in my room over the weekend and in SE TX we have been running 80% humidity and 90*F so needless to say its a prime target for rust, and rust my gun did.
Now the parts of m gun that had froglube on it were great! But on the end of the bolt carrier(where it was lube less) had slight surface rust, as did the little steel pin on my CTR stock.
Hit those spots with the froglube liquid whih took the rus away, and now is preventing rust.
So froglube works great to prevent rust, butthere must be frog lube there lol. Now the whole bolt carrier gets coated in the paste
sinlessorrow
09-15-12, 14:48
If anyone is wonderig here is the MSDS for froglube paste.
http://axelsonsupply.com/media/pdf/FrogLubePasteMSDS-3-26-10.pdf
N/A stands for not aplicable.
sinlessorrow
09-17-12, 22:01
Ok, I have finally found an issue with frog lube that may just make me discontinue its use.
What I have found is that while froglube does indeed provide great rust prevention, it does not spread. You have to literally coat every single little part that is steel with it to avoid rust. So far I have found rust on the part of the bolt carrier that I did not coat, I also found rust on my Geissele SSA trigger today because I did not coat it.
While Froglube does slick up and all that, the fact that it does not spread means it offers no protection from rust on the surfaces it doesnt touch. I am tempted to replace it and move back to Slip2000EWL. If you live in a place that you do not have to worry about rust I am sure froglube will do you well, but in a place like SE TX where rust is a concern I am not sure if froglube is ideal.
NoveskeFan
09-17-12, 22:11
The last few builds I've done, everything gets a coat of Froglube. I use the 8oz liquid spray bottle on the exterior and coat the whole firearm in a light mist, then wipe off. I also use a heat gun to heat all the parts (upper/lower, BCG, FCG, etc.) After I brush on the paste, which goes on pretty "wet" due to heat, I use the heat gun to spread the love :). No rust in the humid Hampton Roads area of VA.
sinlessorrow
09-17-12, 23:17
The last few builds I've done, everything gets a coat of Froglube. I use the 8oz liquid spray bottle on the exterior and coat the whole firearm in a light mist, then wipe off. I also use a heat gun to heat all the parts (upper/lower, BCG, FCG, etc.) After I brush on the paste, which goes on pretty "wet" due to heat, I use the heat gun to spread the love :). No rust in the humid Hampton Roads area of VA.
I had not thought about that, I will say froglube does everything it says it does, but for my uses I think I am better suited with Slip2000, but that is just me, if anyone wants my paste and liquid let me know and ill send it to you.
Ok, I have finally found an issue with frog lube that may just make me discontinue its use.
What I have found is that while froglube does indeed provide great rust prevention, it does not spread. You have to literally coat every single little part that is steel with it to avoid rust. So far I have found rust on the part of the bolt carrier that I did not coat, I also found rust on my Geissele SSA trigger today because I did not coat it.
While Froglube does slick up and all that, the fact that it does not spread means it offers no protection from rust on the surfaces it doesnt touch. I am tempted to replace it and move back to Slip2000EWL. If you live in a place that you do not have to worry about rust I am sure froglube will do you well, but in a place like SE TX where rust is a concern I am not sure if froglube is ideal.
There is no product that will prevent something from happening where it is not used. It's YOUR job to spread the lubricant onto the weapon. I suggest a heat-gun and a paint-brush.
sinlessorrow
09-17-12, 23:27
There is no product that will prevent something from happening where it is not used. It's YOUR job to spread the lubricant onto the weapon.
I know this, my point was because froglube is so thick it does not spread on its own. I realize it made the mistake of not making sure everything was covered, but with other lubes I do not need to be as concerned about getting everything covered in lube as others spread. Trust me I liked the stuff and it honestly works like advertised, but for my uses I am better off with something else.
If anyone has been on the fence about trying this hit me up, I have a bottle of paste and liquid I will send you.
If anyone is wonderig here is the MSDS for froglube paste.
http://axelsonsupply.com/media/pdf/FrogLubePasteMSDS-3-26-10.pdf
N/A stands for not aplicable.
So this stuff has been around since 2003 as "Froglube"?
I know this, my point was because froglube is so thick it does not spread on its own. I realize it made the mistake of not making sure everything was covered, but with other lubes I do not need to be as concerned about getting everything covered in lube as others spread. Trust me I liked the stuff and it honestly works like advertised, but for my uses I am better off with something else.
If anyone has been on the fence about trying this hit me up, I have a bottle of paste and liquid I will send you.
It's a double-edged sword. I use a heat-gun and Froglube is like water in how it runs.
I love it because when it cools off to room temp, it doesn't run OFF.
I Froglubed one of my Dad's AR's a while back and it's still doing great. He keeps them in a horrible area for humidity against all advise to the contrary.
I had a question regarding the application of Froglube. After reading the instructions, I was a little unclear on two points:
1) After heating the gun up and applying the lube, do I leave the gun under a heat source for about 30-60 mins, or I do allow the gun and lube to cool down immediately after applying?
2) Do I run the gun without any additional lube after all the excess has been wiped off, aka run it "dry"?
*Edit: I use the liquid.
Taprackngo
09-22-12, 21:29
I had not thought about that, I will say froglube does everything it says it does, but for my uses I think I am better suited with Slip2000, but that is just me, if anyone wants my paste and liquid let me know and ill send it to you.
I would love to try it out if the offer is still open. :)
I had a question regarding the application of Froglube. After reading the instructions, I was a little unclear on two points:
1) After heating the gun up and applying the lube, do I leave the gun under a heat source for about 30-60 mins, or I do allow the gun and lube to cool down immediately after applying?
2) Do I run the gun without any additional lube after all the excess has been wiped off, aka run it "dry"?
*Edit: I use the liquid.
Don't over think it. I've been running the paste on a new Noveske upper for 5k. For the initial application I heated the BCG with a space heater and liberally applied the paste. I did not wipe off the excess because I run everything wet. Every 1k I pull the BCG, wipe it down, and reapply. It's almost foolproof. I'll post up some pics of my carrier and whatnot if I have some time tomorrow so everyone can compare wear.
skullworks
09-23-12, 06:23
I had a question regarding the application of Froglube. After reading the instructions, I was a little unclear on two points:
1) After heating the gun up and applying the lube, do I leave the gun under a heat source for about 30-60 mins, or I do allow the gun and lube to cool down immediately after applying?
Let it cool.
2) Do I run the gun without any additional lube after all the excess has been wiped off, aka run it "dry"?
Your choice. I use the paste so I wipe off the excess from the Bolt Carrier (leaving the bolt wet) and run it "fairly dry." ;)
DIRTMAN556
09-25-12, 00:33
Being too lazy to go and grab a hair dryer and the lack of a heat gun. I 'heated' the BCG by sticking it inside of a hot engine bay. Worked like a charm. Now I just need one of those brushes to spread it more evenly.
One feature to take into consideration; for those without the ability to use well ventilated areas -- due to apartment or condo living -- FrogLube works great since there are no fumes or foul smells from solvents. Enjoy the lube!
I put my BCG on a baking sheet and popped it in the oven, works great.
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I put my BCG on a baking sheet and popped it in the oven, works great.
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This got me to thinking if anyone has tried Pam cooking spray as a frictionless coating? Or not lol :D
S. Galbraith
09-25-12, 12:42
I may have to try some of this stuff. I've been happy with TW-25B for years, but I am always open to something that may be better.
Missileman
09-25-12, 19:19
I bought a 4oz kit of paste and lube. First I cleaned a GSG1911AO with alcohol. I heated the parts with a heat gun and brushed everything with paste. Let it cool until it was a wax. Then I reheated it and re-spread the paste and re wet where needed. Let it cool and then wiped everything down with a cloth. Left the wax inside the slide and on the rails. That slide was smooth as glass.
A few days later I did the same procedure to a PSA M4A1 that was brand new. Took both to the club range the next day and put a few hundred rounds through each. I used a bunch of Wolf and Tula in the .223 and every kind of .22LR I could find from CCI to bare lead Thunderbolts. Going for the dirty effect :)
Not one malfunction of any kind from either weapon. Never even had a rimfire miss.
Brought them both home and cleaned them. They did clean significantly easier. Most exposed areas did just wipe down, the bores were not that easy though they did take a lot fewer patches to get clean.
They both did wick out lube in areas that got hot. Most areas where I had wiped it off stayed dry except intricate areas where you could not easily wipe so it got wet along some creases and such, but nothing excessive.
I like it and it seems to do a very good cleaning job even removing more carbon from an already clean firearm. It makes the metal very dark and clean while not being greasy. I'm going to keep using it and see how it works on my old collector guns and such. I have an old Spanish Mauser that loves to rust if you don't keep an eye on it. I'm going to try that next I think.
Being too lazy to go and grab a hair dryer and the lack of a heat gun. I 'heated' the BCG by sticking it inside of a hot engine bay. Worked like a charm. Now I just need one of those brushes to spread it more evenly.
One feature to take into consideration; for those without the ability to use well ventilated areas -- due to apartment or condo living -- FrogLube works great since there are no fumes or foul smells from solvents. Enjoy the lube!
I live in a <500sq foot apartment*. You have a major point, and one that I have enjoyed!
*It's "cheap" and I'm moving next year and it's in a great neighborhood. At 26 I have not accumulated a bunch of crap that needs space, yet, so why not? Rent money is money I will never get back and so until I build a house in a couple of years, I go as cheap as I can.
Seems to be some confusion about heat/application.
Treat it like a frying pan. However you season a frying pan, it's probably a bit different from the next guy, and yet both of you own fully functional frying pans that work great, I am betting. This is an identical concept, just put it on and heat it up using common sense.
This might be a dumb question but has anyone had an issue with their extractor insert melting using the oven to heat their BCG?
This might be a dumb question but has anyone had an issue with their extractor insert melting using the oven to heat their BCG?
Your doing it wrong...
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justlikeanyoneelse
09-26-12, 00:05
wow...next time disassemble first and remove the insert.
This might be a dumb question but has anyone had an issue with their extractor insert melting using the oven to heat their BCG?
ComradeBoris
09-26-12, 01:02
try turning you oven on to the lowest setting you hear it click on (if a turn knob) or if digital most go to 175 and that should be no problem for any weapon.
This might be a dumb question but has anyone had an issue with their extractor insert melting using the oven to heat their BCG?
How hot are you setting the temp to?
wow...next time disassemble first and remove the insert.
Damn easy there Tex! Not saying I've done this or had it happen, just asking if it's been an issue for anyone!
I am slowly drinking the "kool aid," having always really been interested in Frog Lube; but being quite content with Slip2000 EWL.
I just happened on some of the 1oz (?) tubes and slipped one in my pistol grip at a recent range session. The particular rifle I had with me that day only has around 3K rounds on it, and about 500 since it's last cleaning; but just for grins I broke it down took a cloth and wiped off the internals - which for those who use Slip is generally pretty much all you need to do.
I have always read/heard the positive comments about the smell, but it really does have to be appreciated in person; I dig it! So I slather up a BCG that had been warmed by two rapid fire mags and watch the stuff just melt into place. After a range session of about 200 rounds, I can see that it has congealed and that the carbon appears to have been lifted to the surface. I get home, wipe with a shop rag, and then apply heat with a hairdryer. Instantly the surface becomes slick again; and so I attempted to season my parts. I wipe off most of the surface wetness and then reapply some more of the liquid.
I can't wait to really let the round count increase and see how it does long term; but I am impressed so far. No suprisingly, in reading a chunk of this thread there seems to be some seasoned vets here that are singing it's praises. :cool:
Froglube smells exactly like toilet bowl cleaner. It is a strong mint-like smell.
Actually smells like a football locker room. "Wintergreen"
Only if they recently cleaned the toilets. :laugh:
To me it still smells exactly like Icy Hot or Bengay.
I like it.
unclerandy
12-19-12, 00:21
Ive converted to Froglube on all my firearms, rifles, shotguns and pistols. Ive been very happy with the performance and clean-up so far. I started to clean my DDM4V3 tonight for the first time since using Froglube on this weapon. I just ended up frustrated and quit for the night.
Questions: How the hell do you get the inside holes and recesses of the BCG cleaned out? I used a mop attachment and it filled everything with "lint"!
Do you use the solvent or similar again to clean the hard to get areas and then reapply the Froglube from scratch? I'm already bothered I cant imagine what the chamber and barrel will be like to clean! I mean dont get me wrong, a lot of stuff just wiped off external surfaces really well. But for the hard to get recesses and internal nooks and crannies the Froglube is like glue and nearly impossible to get sludge and crap out. I hope some others know what I'm talking about.
Not sure I understand 100%, but cant you just warm up the part let the contamanent rise to the top and wipe off? I could be completely off base here....
unclerandy
12-19-12, 02:03
Not sure I understand 100%, but cant you just warm up the part let the contamanent rise to the top and wipe off? I could be completely off base here....
On exterior parts that works great but on the inside of the BCG holes and chamber and barrel etc. you have to put something in there to clean i.e. brush, patch, mop it just pushes the froglube and grim around and never really gets it out.
NoveskeFan
12-19-12, 03:09
The liquid, or warm paste would be cleaned up no different from more conventional cleaners. I clean my parts after warming them. If you have excess lint, maybe you're using too much lube or old mops, rags etc. Also, I use compressed air.
unclerandy
12-19-12, 03:20
The liquid, or warm paste would be cleaned up no different from more conventional cleaners. I clean my parts after warming them. If you have excess lint, maybe you're using too much lube or old mops, rags etc. Also, I use compressed air.
My previous method would have been gunscrubber or similar which would dissolve crud and blow/rinse it out in one step. I used a brand new mop on the BCG with the parts heated and fresh Froglube applied just turned the mop black and made "mud" inside. I love it on my Glocks but it is seeming almost stupid difficult to get the M4 super clean which is what I want.
NoveskeFan
12-19-12, 03:40
Did you degrease before the first application? I haven't had issues like you're describing. I slightly warm the part, then scrub, mop, wipe, whatever. After wiped clean, I reheat to hotter than before and brush on clean lube, let cool, reassemble. How many rounds have you fired since the last cleaning?
unclerandy
12-19-12, 03:45
Did you degrease before the first application? I haven't had issues like you're describing. I slightly warm the part, then scrub, mop, wipe, whatever. After wiped clean, I reheat to hotter than before and brush on clean lube, let cool, reassemble. How many rounds have you fired since the last cleaning?
Yes it was completely cleaned with the expensive Froglube recommended solvent. About 240 rounds since conversion to FL. You say "wiped clean", how can you wipe clean the inside of the stepped down necks inside the BCG?
You are overthinking this. Clean it with some simple degreaser and hot water then blow dry it with a hose. Warm the parts and coat it in Froglube.
Ive converted to Froglube on all my firearms, rifles, shotguns and pistols. Ive been very happy with the performance and clean-up so far. I started to clean my DDM4V3 tonight for the first time since using Froglube on this weapon. I just ended up frustrated and quit for the night.
Questions: How the hell do you get the inside holes and recesses of the BCG cleaned out? I used a mop attachment and it filled everything with "lint"!
Do you use the solvent or similar again to clean the hard to get areas and then reapply the Froglube from scratch? I'm already bothered I cant imagine what the chamber and barrel will be like to clean! I mean dont get me wrong, a lot of stuff just wiped off external surfaces really well. But for the hard to get recesses and internal nooks and crannies the Froglube is like glue and nearly impossible to get sludge and crap out. I hope some others know what I'm talking about.
NoveskeFan
12-19-12, 04:57
I use a rag and the small end of a double ended scrub brush, the ones that look like funky tooth brushes. You can also use a dowel rod or the froglube brush handle. Overlap the brush handle with the rag. I also "screw drive" the rag into the bolt opening of the carrier. Just kinda stuff the rag in there while turning it.
Warm the offending area with a hair dryer and blow the crap out with compressed air. I do that to the barrel extension every so often.
Ive converted to Froglube on all my firearms, rifles, shotguns and pistols. Ive been very happy with the performance and clean-up so far. I started to clean my DDM4V3 tonight for the first time since using Froglube on this weapon. I just ended up frustrated and quit for the night.
Questions: How the hell do you get the inside holes and recesses of the BCG cleaned out? I used a mop attachment and it filled everything with "lint"!
Do you use the solvent or similar again to clean the hard to get areas and then reapply the Froglube from scratch? I'm already bothered I cant imagine what the chamber and barrel will be like to clean! I mean dont get me wrong, a lot of stuff just wiped off external surfaces really well. But for the hard to get recesses and internal nooks and crannies the Froglube is like glue and nearly impossible to get sludge and crap out. I hope some others know what I'm talking about.
SomeOtherGuy
12-19-12, 07:16
Ive converted to Froglube on all my firearms, rifles, shotguns and pistols. Ive been very happy with the performance and clean-up so far. I started to clean my DDM4V3 tonight for the first time since using Froglube on this weapon. I just ended up frustrated and quit for the night.
Questions: How the hell do you get the inside holes and recesses of the BCG cleaned out? I used a mop attachment and it filled everything with "lint"!
Do you use the solvent or similar again to clean the hard to get areas and then reapply the Froglube from scratch? I'm already bothered I cant imagine what the chamber and barrel will be like to clean! I mean dont get me wrong, a lot of stuff just wiped off external surfaces really well. But for the hard to get recesses and internal nooks and crannies the Froglube is like glue and nearly impossible to get sludge and crap out. I hope some others know what I'm talking about.
I suspect you are trying for a level of "clean" that isn't beneficial. I clean the major carbon off the outside of the carrier with a rag, and inside the main hole (where the bolt sits) with q-tips. I pretty much stop there. I suspect you are looking at the gas vent holes in the side - ignore them, they will blow clean to the extent needed.
A BCG lubed with Froglube paste is always a bit greasy and doesn't look super clean. It works great.
If you really just have to clean every little bit, get some dental picks and maybe an ultrasonic cleaner.
Littlelebowski
12-19-12, 07:21
If you really just have to clean every little bit, get some dental picks and maybe an ultrasonic cleaner.
Not a good idea with the dental picks.
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