View Full Version : Froglube
SomeOtherGuy
12-19-12, 07:29
Not a good idea with the dental picks.
I agree and am not making a recommendation. Just observing a possible method for someone obsessed with a certain result.
Yes it was completely cleaned with the expensive Froglube recommended solvent.
The price of the solvent is ridiculous. I am all for making as much as you can, and if people keep buying the solvent at the current price then more power to them. I bought a 8 oz. bottle and when it is gone I will switch to a different but similar solvent that is about half the price.
I ordered some reloading accessories today and decided to add a 4 oz. container of Frog Lube paste to my order and give it a try. One of the comments on the vendor's website stated it smelled like spearmint. Any comments?
SomeOtherGuy
01-04-13, 16:16
I ordered some reloading accessories today and decided to add a 4 oz. container of Frog Lube paste to my order and give it a try. One of the comments on the vendor's website stated it smelled like spearmint. Any comments?
It does. Pretty sure it's an added odor rather than natural to the functional part of the product. I'm 99% indifferent.
Dessert Fox
01-04-13, 19:41
Would normal $3-4/can brake cleaner work for degreasing?
wetidlerjr
01-04-13, 20:09
Would normal $3-4/can brake cleaner work for degreasing?
Yes. Get non-chlorinated.
I ordered some reloading accessories today and decided to add a 4 oz. container of Frog Lube paste to my order and give it a try. One of the comments on the vendor's website stated it smelled like spearmint. Any comments?
I guess you have NEVER heard of this stuff???? The most posted about Lubricant / Cleaner is the history of the internet.... :rolleyes:
I think some guys bathe in this stuff the way they can't stop talking about it.
I guess you have NEVER heard of this stuff???? The most posted about Lubricant / Cleaner is the history of the internet.... :rolleyes:
I think some guys bathe in this stuff the way they can't stop talking about it.
Maybe they think using the lube will make them a rough and tough Frogman.
Did they change the formula? Seems like the Froglube liquid I recently got is the consistency of a hair gel and the paste is a hard wax.
People like it. Why is it any different from 98 pages of any other product?
Really 38 pages???
Dessert Fox
01-05-13, 22:38
Really 38 pages???
You probably already know this, but users are encouraged to hit the orange "Search" button before starting a new topic on a subject which a thread already exists.
You probably already know this, but users are encouraged to hit the orange "Search" button before starting a new topic on a subject which a thread already exists.
What he said
I made an order from the main frog lube website late November of 2012. The payment went through but still my order has not arrived. I called the number from their site and sent emails but no reply. Does anyone have a better number or any contact information so I can get in touch with them? Thank you.
Also I'm not trying to give them a bad name or anything.
Really 38 pages???
Some people love it, some refuse to contaminate their weapons with it. Very little indifference, and thus discussion is spawned.
skullworks
01-07-13, 08:41
Did they change the formula? Seems like the Froglube liquid I recently got is the consistency of a hair gel and the paste is a hard wax.
Yes, they improved the formula. The old formula for the liquid would occasionally require you to shake the bottle, with the new there's no need to do that.
I'm still working on my first can of the paste so I do not have any first-hand knowledge of what (if any change) has been done to the paste, but I guess whatever made the new liquid more uniform could result in the paste being harder (which is no biggie since it should be applied onto warm metal and it will melt as always).
Oh, and I'd rather have 39 pages on one subject than 380 separate threads.
This site has always seemed to have a bit of a Lube fetish. :confused:
skullworks
01-07-13, 09:38
Not everyone likes a dry vag... Eh, bolt. :jester:
This thread is only averaging about 1.5 posts per day, you know.
This thread is only averaging about 1.5 posts per day, you know.
Interesting Lube thread Factoid. :D
Now that I know that Frog Lube smells like peppermint, I have to ask the question. Does it taste like peppermint and will it make my breath minty fresh ?
Now that I know that Frog Lube smells like peppermint, I have to ask the question. Does it taste like peppermint and will it make my breath minty fresh ?
It's yours to discover.
Actually, when I used to teach gun cleaning I used to joke that M-Pro 7 was supposed to be non-toxic, but discouraged as a beverage.
sinlessorrow
01-07-13, 14:33
Now that I know that Frog Lube smells like peppermint, I have to ask the question. Does it taste like peppermint and will it make my breath minty fresh ?
No and no.
It has no taste and doesnt leave a fresh breathe smell.
Lube threads are a slippery subject.:rolleyes:
www.guessreallyhard.com
That made me laugh out loud.
Protect the 2nd amendment with VIGOR !!!!
I've used Frog Lube for over a year now...great product and I love how it changes to temps and the lubricity that it provides while being good to your hands
Here is the bad thing that I have noticed. Over time if you do not clean your chamber...it will start to build up in the breach area (probably me putting way too much lubricant on the bolt) This was after about 1000rds and it caused to eject a little differently...cleaned...no problemo
It appear to be a granule like substance
Here is the bad thing that I have noticed. Over time if you do not clean your chamber...it will start to build up in the breach area (probably me putting way too much lubricant on the bolt) This was after about 1000rds and it caused to eject a little differently...cleaned...no problemo
It appear to be a granule like substance
Elaborate? It actually caused failures to eject or a different ejection pattern? :confused:
Different ejection patterns
skullworks
01-09-13, 11:05
Different ejection patterns
But no failures of any kind? You didn't perhaps swap to a different brand ammo in the midst of this? ;)
As far as using the paste. If you follow the instructions, using the paste to season the part lubed, it liquifies when applied to the metal when the metal is warmed as instructed. Let is set for about an hour, then wipe off excess. The liquid will get into nooks and crannies easier, but if done right, the paste will melt into wherever you want it to using a small brush. I use both and really am sold on it. It's not a gimmick IMHO but I pray we don't have zero degree weather down here in the South. No reports here on zero degree performance.
These were the same instructions my cousin gave me before his 5th deployment. I believe I use a different product but similar method.
Well if anyone cares Froglube has great customer service. Made an order almost a month ago. My money was taken from my account but nothing was shipped. Called them up after a few weeks. They sent my order 2 day mail with extra goodies after they found my order not sent.
This was from the main website and not a distributor or dealer.
I hope no one thought I was sarcastic. The people at Froglube are great at what they do and will make sure to go out of their way to take care of you. Looking over my post one could think it was being sarcastic and rude. I recommend them and will still use their product. Now I get to test for my GAU-18 .50 cal machine gun soon. I have high hopes for this test.
I'm about to get a new noveske barrel. As far as the initial cleaning goes: Does cleaning with the froglube solvent, then lubing with froglube sound good? I'm just making sure this would be in line with the instructions they published.
As far as initial cleaning goes I sprayed down all parts with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Applied FG and heated. Never used their solvent but I'd imagine brake cleaner is much cheaper.
-Jax
I'm about to get a new noveske barrel. As far as the initial cleaning goes: Does cleaning with the froglube solvent, then lubing with froglube sound good? I'm just making sure this would be in line with the instructions they published.
Barrel??? Just patch it out and shoot it. No lubes.
I used the froglube solvent on a dirty barrel for the first time last week. I was very impressed. Can't hurt to run it through.
grunt soldier
02-06-13, 23:39
frog lube is some great stuff. I have been testing it vs just regular old clp on 2 different rifles and I like it a lot better. after it starts getting dirty it still doesn't feel gritty at all. good stuff
I like CLP, used it in the military and I use it to clean all my guns today. Here is an old Air Force video from back in my day for cleaning an M16 (Note he is cleaning a model 604 which is an Air Force variant): http://www.kiestu5.com/videopage/on/_HXFobzhJdo.html
Same rules apply for cleaning your M4, which is more or less the same gun.
The joys of SHOT Show this year was the insane amount of free gun lube I was able to get. I got a giant tube of Froglube, a ton of grease from Smith Enterprise, PWS had some orange stuff called Gun Ease, and the Seal 1 guy gladly gave me plenty of his product to sample.
I noticed the PWS and Seal 1 stuff seemed very similar, and those two were similar to Froglube in texture.
The PWS and Seal 1 stuff were both orange, the Seal 1 stuff does smell better IMO. lol
Wasnt the Seal 1 guy with Froglube at some point? Not trying to start problems...but I thought I had heard about that.
Anyone used use FL on a NiB treated bolt carrier group? Just wondering how the two of them would get along. I know you are supposed to be able to use a NiB BCG without lube, but not sure I could ever do that.
Dont play so much into miracle coating claims. Some lube is always better that no lube. That said, FL should do nothing but complement the inherent lubricity of your NiB bcg. It will probably be really slick and smooth.
I have used Froglube on my AR and several pistols. Haven't shot with them yet but hand cycling is smooth. I have always used Mobil 1 but don't like how is seeps out of everything. Even the smallest bit will keep showing up long after you put a small bit.
So far I'm impressed with the FL and my AR smells amazing when shouldered lol
LESSTHANZERO
02-23-13, 01:59
I have used FL on my AR (500r)NIB & Sig (2000+)NIB ,it has worked perfectly.
I have been using Slip 2000 EWL for years, and have read all the testimonials about Frog Lube. Frog lube sounds like a good product, but I think there is a reason Bravo Company gives you a bottle of Slip 2000 EWL when you buy one of their upper receiver groups.
Littlelebowski
02-23-13, 07:51
I have been using Slip 2000 EWL for years, and have read all the testimonials about Frog Lube. Frog lube sounds like a good product, but I think there is a reason Bravo Company gives you a bottle of Slip 2000 EWL when you buy one of their upper receiver groups.
Whatever you do, do NOT try both. Madness!
I have been using Slip 2000 EWL for years, and have read all the testimonials about Frog Lube. Frog lube sounds like a good product, but I think there is a reason Bravo Company gives you a bottle of Slip 2000 EWL when you buy one of their upper receiver groups.
Have you read any testimonials that said anything other than "FrogLube works wonderfully"?
I'm am an admitted slave to marketing and internet buzz.
I've used militec, "bug-juice", various concoctions of Mobil-1 mixed with various other products, Eno's Slide Glide grease, etc. Everything that people say is coolest/best. If enough people join in, I'll jump on the bandwagon. (Not proud, just honest)
I've rarely been disappointed in any of them. Maybe its the any lube is good lube because its a hell of a lot better than NO lube theory. 'Til now my duty re-purposed M-16 has remained "wet" longer with the Mobil-1 concoctions than my counterparts with the CLP and Hoppes provided by the PD. That's the most significant thing I've seen. We've got guys who will carry a gun that's just plain bone dry no matter how many bottles of lube I leave in the rifle locker.
I recently Frogged the work collection, 2 Glock 22s, a Sig P229, and my issued 1972 M-16. The G22s and the Sig have about 200 rds each down range. The M-16 has simply been carried from armory to squad car daily throughout the winter with nary a trigger pull.
My experience is that FL seems to work as advertised. The most significant benefit for me has been clean-up. I LOVE the wipe-down cleaning process. No more extended huffing sessions. I've even done the clean-up in the house with nominal bitchin' from the wife. Although she has promised an uptick in complaints if I continue.
The other thing is that I can run with more lube on the gun using the paste without it dripping/running while carried or in the rack.
I ran pretty heavy on the initial FL application, so when shooting the guns get really wet for a sec. I used the paste formulation exclusively.
I also made a point this week to go straight from 12 deg into the range to shoot them cold with FL. I didn't notice any negative effects. the Sig rides close to the body, so it wasn't so cold. One G22 is waving around in the -10 deg wind chill and the other G22 was in locked in a locker out in the car so it was at approx. air temp.
The clean-up alone is worth if for me to stick with FL assuming all other things remain the same. Time will tell. I have a DD V5LELW that is supposed to come off the line on Monday. It's getting cleaned up and Frog Lubed from minute one.
Whatever you do, do NOT try both. Madness!
No worries there, :no:
I just got some FL in the mail today. I sure hope it works as advertised.
Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2
fallenromeo
02-23-13, 14:41
Have you read any testimonials that said anything other than "FrogLube works wonderfully"?
Exactly. I love FL, it is all I use now. I have turned several people onto it as well, I have yet to hear anyone say anything negative about it or dislike it. Everyone I know that has used it now uses it exclusively on all their weapons.
Have you read any testimonials that said anything other than "FrogLube works wonderfully"?
Yes I have and they are all good. I am very happy with EWL and see no reason to change.
Yes I have and they are all good. I am very happy with EWL and see no reason to change.
Use what your happy with. I was happy with Mobil 1 until I tried the FL. I can't say it amazing yet as I haven't shot with it. How it clings to what you put it on has won me over so far.
Use what your happy with. I was happy with Mobil 1 until I tried the FL. I can't say it amazing yet as I haven't shot with it. How it clings to what you put it on has won me over so far.
That's one of my favorite things. I can liberally lube my BCG and it doesn't run all over the place. That's very nice.
And it smells good, non toxic, and it just plain works.
For 20 some bucks I got more than I've been able to use in a little while.
That's one of my favorite things. I can liberally lube my BCG and it doesn't run all over the place. That's very nice.
And it smells good, non toxic, and it just plain works.
For 20 some bucks I got more than I've been able to use in a little while.
I have to agree with all of the above, since lubing with FL over 1k rounds ago on each gun, I have yet to re lube or really need to clean for that matter. Glocks and AR-15's
Razorhunter
02-23-13, 23:19
While I've yet to purchase any FL yet, I've handled it many times, and I too like its almost thixotropic-like properties. It definitely stays where you put it, a major plus IMO.
I started using the paste on my reloading press ram. Everything else I've tried would need to be reapplied after 500-1000 cycles. FL is still going strong after a couple thousand :D
I started using the paste on my reloading press ram. Everything else I've tried would need to be reapplied after 500-1000 cycles. FL is still going strong after a couple thousand :D
Thank you for this idea.
SomeOtherGuy
02-28-13, 15:25
I started using the paste on my reloading press ram. Everything else I've tried would need to be reapplied after 500-1000 cycles. FL is still going strong after a couple thousand :D
I'll have to try that.
I've been using Froglube paste on the bolt of bolt-action rifles and it works very well for that purpose.
Generally it is ideal when you need a lube that (1) stays put without evaporating or running off, but (2) doesn't necessarily have to be the slickest super-oil around.
FWIW I have also tried Froglube on the detent keyway of the AR15 selector, and I have NOT been happy with its performance there. I otherwise use a soft conventional grease (usually a #1 intended for automotive use) with excellent results.
Still going strong on the ram...
skullworks
03-01-13, 09:37
FWIW I have also tried Froglube on the detent keyway of the AR15 selector, and I have NOT been happy with its performance there.
How so, if you don't mind my asking?
ChrisCross
03-01-13, 11:30
I've got 2 new Colts heading to the range today all Frog Lube'd up (that sounds somewhat kinky...). I'm interested to see how it works in/with a rifle from day one.
I'll post in here with observations etc and also after I take them to a Carbine Course later this month.
I have used froglube for about a year now, and ran my carbine through a Northern Red course and an EAG course. Through the 3,000 rounds roughly I have shot in the past year, I have never had a malfunction with it. I really like the product and as a bonus it smells good too.
I've got 2 new Colts heading to the range today all Frog Lube'd up (that sounds somewhat kinky...). I'm interested to see how it works in/with a rifle from day one.
I'll post in here with observations etc and also after I take them to a Carbine Course later this month.
I Froglube'd my 6920 from day 1. A little over 2,000 rounds in and I'm quite pleased. :)
ChrisCross
03-01-13, 11:50
I Froglube'd my 6920 from day 1. A little over 2,000 rounds in and I'm quite pleased. :)
Mine are a 6920 and a 6720 which by end of month should have around 1,000 rounds through each (oh my frikken wallet... damn you ammo prices.. damn you and the president that brought you). :mad:
BoringGuy45
03-01-13, 12:35
I LOVE Froglube! My M&P45 started running smoother since I started using it, plus it takes maybe five minutes to wipe it clean after a long day at the range. Yeah, it takes a bit longer to reapply since you have to heat the metal, brush it on, then wait for it to cool, but that's not a huge deal and I find it relaxing to "paint" my guns after each range session.
Trader Ben
05-13-13, 07:26
I've been using the stuff on several guns for awhile and I'm convinced. It even smells good.
I've been using the stuff on several guns for awhile and I'm convinced. It even smells good.
Convinced on what?
I tried it again after not really shooting for over a year. Worked fine, but everything that I've used has. I would also like to add that I shot probably 400 rounds through my ar before putting it away dirty for over a year took it out and fired 100 rounds through without cleaning or reoiling it with no issues. All of this was while using a suppressor. I used weapon shield at the time. Rifle was dirty, but still functioned perfectly. I'm going to stick with frog lube for a while and see how it goes now that I'm shooting again. I currently have 100 rounds down the pipe and I don't plan on cleaning it for another 500 or so just to see how frog lube will hold up. I do not depend on this rifle for any reason and if I did, it would not be treated this way.
DIRTMAN556
05-19-13, 01:44
Wife said, "Mmmm, smells good." Seals the deal for me.
unclerandy
05-19-13, 02:34
I really like Froglube for my Glocks but i'm just about over the craze. Cleaning my AR i'm realizing very quickly that the gumming up waxy sludge makes cleaning a lot more work and ive already ordered some Fireclean.
All I can say is that you must be doing something wrong. I have been using it for 2 years now, and I am not experiencing this and I can't honestly say I know of anyone else who is either.
I really like Froglube for my Glocks but i'm just about over the craze. Cleaning my AR i'm realizing very quickly that the gumming up waxy sludge makes cleaning a lot more work and ive already ordered some Fireclean.
unclerandy
05-19-13, 03:16
All I can say is that you must be doing something wrong. I have been using it for 2 years now, and I am not experiencing this and I can't honestly say I know of anyone else who is either.
I shouldn't assume but I will anyway. I assume most people using Froglube on AR platform guns are wiping off the fouling, applying more lube and done. Since I am a recreational shooter and disabled I have more time on my hands than some. I prefer to clean my weapons so they are actually clean and not just lubed and ready to shoot. Since I choose to clean the gun to a level that "dirt" doesnt come off on patches or rags or t-shirts anymore, basically in my opinion the Froglube has to be completely stripped off and start over. The bolt and carrier have stepped down recesses that are nearly impossible to "clean" with Froglube's waxy solidified gummed up carbon grease. Maybe I am doing something wrong, but this is my experience. I have been shooting for roughly 38 years and have plenty of experience shooting and cleaning guns. I am a fan of FL over anything previously used but since i'm not ok leaving the FL sludge in the gun i'm choosing to try Fireclean. Anyone that claims that after applying FL properly and shooting an AR that the gun wipes clean in all orifices i'm calling BS. As far as an effective lubricant and protectant yes 100%.
AR Newby AZ
05-19-13, 04:21
I really like Froglube for my Glocks but i'm just about over the craze. Cleaning my AR i'm realizing very quickly that the gumming up waxy sludge makes cleaning a lot more work and ive already ordered some Fireclean.
You're not wiping off the excess lube after waiting 30 minutes after application.
glock30_27
05-19-13, 09:24
I shouldn't assume but I will anyway. I assume most people using Froglube on AR platform guns are wiping off the fouling, applying more lube and done. Since I am a recreational shooter and disabled I have more time on my hands than some. I prefer to clean my weapons so they are actually clean and not just lubed and ready to shoot. Since I choose to clean the gun to a level that "dirt" doesnt come off on patches or rags or t-shirts anymore, basically in my opinion the Froglube has to be completely stripped off and start over. The bolt and carrier have stepped down recesses that are nearly impossible to "clean" with Froglube's waxy solidified gummed up carbon grease. Maybe I am doing something wrong, but this is my experience. I have been shooting for roughly 38 years and have plenty of experience shooting and cleaning guns. I am a fan of FL over anything previously used but since i'm not ok leaving the FL sludge in the gun i'm choosing to try Fireclean. Anyone that claims that after applying FL properly and shooting an AR that the gun wipes clean in all orifices i'm calling BS. As far as an effective lubricant and protectant yes 100%.
The froglube soaks into the metals.....but out of eveything I have put it on and shot then didnt clean...a month later nothing I hardened up so I am wondering what do you apply to your firearms that isnt froglube?
Littlelebowski
05-19-13, 09:57
Anyone that claims that after applying FL properly and shooting an AR that the gun wipes clean in all orifices i'm calling BS.
Oh well, it works for me and I have pictures.
The froglube soaks into the metals.....but out of eveything I have put it on and shot then didnt clean...a month later nothing I hardened up so I am wondering what do you apply to your firearms that isnt froglube?
There is nothing to "soak" into...
uncleandy, it appears you are one of the guys who is anal about cleaning. If you really want spotless results, I would suggest aerosol chlorine free brake cleaner, to blast your orifices. It really does the job quickly, and oh so painlessly. Then apply Froglube as directed.
The only time FL became 'waxy' or 'gummy' for me is when I combined it with Gun Scrubber just for kicks. I use it by itself along with the occasional copper solvent down the bore and I've never had any issues. Even after a thousand rounds or so and forgetting to wipe the rifle down for a few weeks, I didn't encounter any thing waxy or gummy. Works good for me, YMMV...
Voodoo_Man
05-19-13, 12:30
Oh well, it works for me and I have pictures.
Me, as well.
Trying out rand clp as its a more "standard" lube. No heating, looks and feels like an oil and is very slick just like any other oil. I like being able to see oil on a surface. Fl worked great and I had no issues.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m61/proto19/null-91.jpg
Ill be trying it in a rifle and shotgun soon enough. I also ordered fireclean to try out.
Have used Froglube and it works. I like the Slip 2000 products better. But, each to there own.
Using FL for over a year now on my ARs, glocks, shotguns, knives and various chains. Works as advertised.
I just used the Frog lube paste on my Vickers Tactical 1911 and the slide hardly went into battery, it was very sluggish. I'm not impressed and will not be using it again. I did not put much on either, I have been in contact with Rand and I have ordered there CLP to try.
outrider627
05-21-13, 23:30
I just used the Frog lube paste on my Vickers Tactical 1911 and the slide hardly went into battery, it was very sluggish. I'm not impressed and will not be using it again. I did not put much on either, I have been in contact with Rand and I have ordered there CLP to try.
Did you heat up the metal, apply a thin coat of paste, wait 60 minutes and then wipe off the excess?
Did you heat up the metal, apply a thin coat of paste, wait 60 minutes and then wipe off the excess?
No, I slapped some paste on the rails and thought shooting it would work. It is still very slow moving. I will try removing the paste and using the liquid.
Thanks
I shouldn't assume but I will anyway. I assume most people using Froglube on AR platform guns are wiping off the fouling, applying more lube and done. Since I am a recreational shooter and disabled I have more time on my hands than some. I prefer to clean my weapons so they are actually clean and not just lubed and ready to shoot. Since I choose to clean the gun to a level that "dirt" doesnt come off on patches or rags or t-shirts anymore, basically in my opinion the Froglube has to be completely stripped off and start over. The bolt and carrier have stepped down recesses that are nearly impossible to "clean" with Froglube's waxy solidified gummed up carbon grease. Maybe I am doing something wrong, but this is my experience. I have been shooting for roughly 38 years and have plenty of experience shooting and cleaning guns. I am a fan of FL over anything previously used but since i'm not ok leaving the FL sludge in the gun i'm choosing to try Fireclean. Anyone that claims that after applying FL properly and shooting an AR that the gun wipes clean in all orifices i'm calling BS. As far as an effective lubricant and protectant yes 100%.
I've found that most lubes like Froglube, Fireclean, Rand CLP, basically anything with a flash-point of 400*F+ is going to allow an effective cleaning of the weapon with just a microfiber cloth and a bore-snake.
White-glove clean has its place, but it's not an issue of function or reliability in the least.
I shouldn't assume but I will anyway. I assume most people using Froglube on AR platform guns are wiping off the fouling, applying more lube and done. Since I am a recreational shooter and disabled I have more time on my hands than some. I prefer to clean my weapons so they are actually clean and not just lubed and ready to shoot. Since I choose to clean the gun to a level that "dirt" doesnt come off on patches or rags or t-shirts anymore, basically in my opinion the Froglube has to be completely stripped off and start over. The bolt and carrier have stepped down recesses that are nearly impossible to "clean" with Froglube's waxy solidified gummed up carbon grease. Maybe I am doing something wrong, but this is my experience. I have been shooting for roughly 38 years and have plenty of experience shooting and cleaning guns. I am a fan of FL over anything previously used but since i'm not ok leaving the FL sludge in the gun i'm choosing to try Fireclean. Anyone that claims that after applying FL properly and shooting an AR that the gun wipes clean in all orifices i'm calling BS. As far as an effective lubricant and protectant yes 100%.
Just cleaned an AR last night at the 1k round mark and everything wiped right off with a rag. Not sure where or how people are getting anything waxy or gummy. As for small recesses and such the rag couldn't get I did use an old toothbrush but no scrubbing was required.
Just cleaned an AR last night at the 1k round mark and everything wiped right off with a rag. Not sure where or how people are getting anything waxy or gummy. As for small recesses and such the rag couldn't get I did use an old toothbrush but no scrubbing was required.
Froglube got sticky on my rifle. It happened only after I shot it and "cleaned" it. I cleaned it by wiping it down like suggested by Froglube. Previously, it had sat lubed with Froglube in my closet for weeks. Something in the powder or something? I don't know why it gummed up a few days after I shot it and wiped/re-lubed it, but not before I shot it. It felt like cheap knock-off Elmer's style glue almost. Impede function? Nah, probably not so much, but still, I don't like things that feel like glue on there.
Froglube got sticky on my rifle. It happened only after I shot it and "cleaned" it. I cleaned it by wiping it down like suggested by Froglube. Previously, it had sat lubed with Froglube in my closet for weeks. Something in the powder or something? I don't know why it gummed up a few days after I shot it and wiped/re-lubed it, but not before I shot it. It felt like cheap knock-off Elmer's style glue almost. Impede function? Nah, probably not so much, but still, I don't like things that feel like glue on there.
What kinda ammo do you shoot? Did you properly strip it before your initial FL application? Did you use paste or liquid?
I use liquid FL and totally stripped mine before initial application. I shoot reloads loaded with WC844 powder. I just ran out of liquid so I lubed back up with paste last night. Will see if that makes any difference.
In initial impressions of rand clp are good so far. Using a suppressed g17 and a suppressed 14.6 ar.
Froglube got sticky on my rifle. It happened only after I shot it and "cleaned" it. I cleaned it by wiping it down like suggested by Froglube. Previously, it had sat lubed with Froglube in my closet for weeks. Something in the powder or something? I don't know why it gummed up a few days after I shot it and wiped/re-lubed it, but not before I shot it. It felt like cheap knock-off Elmer's style glue almost. Impede function? Nah, probably not so much, but still, I don't like things that feel like glue on there.
That's what it's supposed to do. That's the reason it's still there when the gun is fired... and heats up a little. The lube starts flowing again.
skullworks
05-22-13, 13:25
Froglube got sticky on my rifle. It happened only after I shot it and "cleaned" it. I cleaned it by wiping it down like suggested by Froglube. Previously, it had sat lubed with Froglube in my closet for weeks. Something in the powder or something? I don't know why it gummed up a few days after I shot it and wiped/re-lubed it, but not before I shot it. It felt like cheap knock-off Elmer's style glue almost. Impede function? Nah, probably not so much, but still, I don't like things that feel like glue on there.
So did it impede function? Or did it just feel sticky but worked as normal?
I use the paste per the instructions and very little of the liquid (a drop on the sear engagement surfaces and a few on the gas rings, that's it.)
Tapatapatapatalk
steyrman13
05-22-13, 13:34
I've found that most lubes like Froglube, Fireclean, Rand CLP, basically anything with a flash-point of 400*F+ is going to allow an effective cleaning of the weapon with just a microfiber cloth and a bore-snake.
White-glove clean has its place, but it's not an issue of function or reliability in the least.
Does anyone have a chart with the flashpoint/gelpoints of FL, Fireclean, Rand, BreakFreeCLP, Slip 2000, etc?
Does anyone have a chart with the flashpoint/gelpoints of FL, Fireclean, Rand, BreakFreeCLP, Slip 2000, etc?
I'm not sure what this matters. :confused:
Despite what the piston sales ****s tell you... the BCG never gets that hot in a DI gun.
steyrman13
05-22-13, 13:49
I'm not sure what this matters. :confused:
Despite what the piston sales ****s tell you... the BCG never gets that hot in a DI gun.
More from a curiousity standpoint. Also, just from oil buring off the barrel or suppressor
skullworks
05-22-13, 13:55
Aside from markm's comment; I would say that in many cases flash point is secondary to residue and fouling. FrogLube burns clean.
Tapatapatapatalk
I've never burned any, but I suppose I could put a drop on one of our silencers and cook it for some reason. :p
Sparky5019
08-10-13, 18:26
Ok...ok...
I've been reading this whole thread for a while now and am sold enough to try some!
Now that we have entered the multipurpose "New Shimmer" discussion of razors and such...
Has anyone tried it as a case lube when sizing brass?
Using Dillon currently but my best friend swears by Ballistol as a case lube (the only possible thing that shit could be good for besides a laxative for the rep who drinks it:rolleyes:).
My curiosity is that if one took the time to apply it "right", would it survive firing and cleaning so one would not have to reapply it when on 2nd sizing.
Interesting thought! But I may just be smoking crack...:D
Sparky
HackerF15E
08-10-13, 18:57
My curiosity is that if one took the time to apply it "right", would it survive firing and cleaning so one would not have to reapply it when on 2nd sizing.
So, you wouldn't tumble -- or even wipe them down -- before resizing?
The idea there is that tumbling before resizing gets rid of grime that can wear your resizing die.
I think I'd rather go through the "pain" of re-applying lube than wear out my resizing die early.
Sparky5019
08-10-13, 19:59
The idea there is that tumbling before resizing gets rid of grime that can wear your resizing die
Duh! :suicide2:
I mused if it would SURVIVE firing, CLEANING (also known in some circles as "tumbling") and would it be possible for one to not need to reapply it upon 2nd resizing.
It was mainly tongue in cheek.
For the record, if you haven't worn out several sizing dies, you haven't been reloading nearly long enough. They're not made of gold, you can buy more without a prescription or an SOT.
My question does still stand...
If anyone has tried.:p
Sparky
IMHO, this whole Frog Lube stuff is totally a bunch of BS.
Seriously?
Clean your weapons after use/action, lube them, you are good to go. No point in buying some kind of "magic formula" lube.
Totally stupid.
But, then again, nobody ever went broken underestimating the foolishness of the consumer.
IMHO, this whole Frog Lube stuff is totally a bunch of BS.
Seriously?
Clean your weapons after use/action, lube them, you are good to go. No point in buying some kind of "magic formula" lube.
Totally stupid.
But, then again, nobody ever went broken underestimating the foolishness of the consumer.
Did you even read a single page of this entire thread?
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
Sparky5019
08-10-13, 20:11
IMHO, this whole Frog Lube stuff is totally a bunch of BS.
Seriously?
Clean your weapons after use/action, lube them, you are good to go. No point in buying some kind of "magic formula" lube.
Totally stupid.
But, then again, nobody ever went broken underestimating the foolishness of the consumer.
Don't get me wrong...it could be unicorn jizz but one never knows if one never tries!
HackerF15E
08-10-13, 20:28
Clean your weapons after use/action, lube them, you are good to go. No point in buying some kind of "magic formula" lube.
Totally stupid.
That's just not...at all...the case.
The case in point here are periods of long-duration, high round-count shooting. Think a multi-day training course with 12+ hour days covering multi-thousands of rounds downrange.
Normal cleaning and lube products and schedules that work for the recreational shooter may not cut it when you are passing your 900th round down the pipe that day.
Now, personally, I think Mobil 1 and Auto Trans Fluid work very well, but there are lots of folks who don't like the smell and other effects of petroleum-based lubrication...and that's what's being discussed.
ComradeBoris
08-10-13, 22:03
Froglube got sticky on my rifle. It happened only after I shot it and "cleaned" it. I cleaned it by wiping it down like suggested by Froglube. Previously, it had sat lubed with Froglube in my closet for weeks. Something in the powder or something? I don't know why it gummed up a few days after I shot it and wiped/re-lubed it, but not before I shot it. It felt like cheap knock-off Elmer's style glue almost. Impede function? Nah, probably not so much, but still, I don't like things that feel like glue on there.
This turned me off of the product as well. I can not say it failed. It was just an aspect I did not like. Went back to EWL and and trying Rand out on my newly rebuilt 1911.
Total awesome stupid on the Frog Lube.
Clean down the weapon. Lube it back up. Back in business.
Failure2Stop
08-10-13, 23:00
Total awesome stupid on the Frog Lube.
Clean down the weapon. Lube it back up. Back in business.
I'm not tracking.
Have you used the product in question?
Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
If you haven't used it and don't understand the benefits of it, then don't buy it and don't comment on it.
IMHO, this whole Frog Lube stuff is totally a bunch of BS.
Seriously?
Clean your weapons after use/action, lube them, you are good to go. No point in buying some kind of "magic formula" lube.
Totally stupid.
But, then again, nobody ever went broken underestimating the foolishness of the consumer.
theblackknight
08-11-13, 00:06
http://www.totalprotectioninteractive.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17024
http://www.totalprotectioninteractive.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17024
Pretty useless, since you have to be a member of that forum in order to view.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
Pretty useless, since you have to be a member of that forum in order to view.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
Yes, I've tried it. Yes, I've used it.
Just don't think it is that big a deal.
But they are making lots of money from hyping it as the "greatest thing since sliced white bread" that's for sure.
Yes, I've tried it. Yes, I've used it.
Just don't think it is that big a deal.
But they are making lots of money from hyping it as the "greatest thing since sliced white bread" that's for sure.
This is the first time I've heard of anyone doing such a thing! (This is my shocked face)
Yes, I've tried it. Yes, I've used it.
Just don't think it is that big a deal.
But they are making lots of money from hyping it as the "greatest thing since sliced white bread" that's for sure.
So is your only gripe about Frog Lube the cost and marketing?
Try again.
Used it. Wasn't impressed.
Just a new hyped lubrication that doesn't do much more than anything else does.
Shoot your weapons. Clean them. Lube them. Shoot them. Lube them. Rinse. Repeat.
You don't need "Frog Lube" ... it's just a stupid thing that appeals to people who spend more time cleaning their guns and lubing them, than actually putting them to any real use.
"Your clearly stated arguments and succinct manner of stating facts has lead me to change my outlook on the entire matter at hand."
- Said no one on an internet forum, ever.
Try again.
Used it. Wasn't impressed.
Just a new hyped lubrication that doesn't do much more than anything else does.
Shoot your weapons. Clean them. Lube them. Shoot them. Lube them. Rinse. Repeat.
You don't need "Frog Lube" ... it's just a stupid thing that appeals to people who spend more time cleaning their guns and lubing them, than actually putting them to any real use.
Do you have any specific complaint about it's performance?
Try again.
Used it. Wasn't impressed.
Just a new hyped lubrication that doesn't do much more than anything else does.
Shoot your weapons. Clean them. Lube them. Shoot them. Lube them. Rinse. Repeat.
You don't need "Frog Lube" ... it's just a stupid thing that appeals to people who spend more time cleaning their guns and lubing them, than actually putting them to any real use.
You don't like it, got it. Now move along, and stop shitting on the thread.
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NoveskeFan
08-11-13, 16:56
... it's just a stupid thing that appeals to people who spend more time cleaning their guns and lubing them, than actually putting them to any real use.
:rolleyes:
Froglube is the first product I tried that lets me clean & lube less.
:rolleyes:
Froglube is the first product I tried that lets me clean & lube less.
OK, fine, it's the greatest thing since the invention of the wheel.
There, everyone happy again?
Good.
:cool:
Come on guys, lets agree to disagree. I know people who love froglube, while others like myself have moved on. (Team Fireclean all the way!)
Don't prosecute someone for liking a different flavor of kool aid.
Don't prosecute someone for liking a different flavor of kool aid.
Winner.
Come on guys, lets agree to disagree. I know people who love froglube, while others like myself have moved on. (Team Fireclean all the way!)
Don't prosecute someone for liking a different flavor of kool aid.
It's OK to like any lube out there. I just thought it was weird to have a 600 post member school-yard name calling something without giving any specific complaint.
If I was going to complain about a product, I would be specific so that other members didn't mistake me for a troll.
It's OK to like any lube out there. I just thought it was weird to have a 600 post member school-yard name calling something without giving any specific complaint.
If I was going to complain about a product, I would be specific so that other members didn't mistake me for a troll.
Let me make this as absolutely clear as possible.
I tried it. It didn't impress me as anything spectacularly useful, necessary or different.
I'm sticking with my standard supplies:
Balistol
Cleaning brushes, etc.
TW25 lube.
You may use whatever you want, you don't need my permission. This "mania" for frog lube just strikes me as ridiculous.
If you like the stuff use it, I just don't get it.
Different strokes for different folks, so to speak.
:ph34r:
Let me make this as absolutely clear as possible.
I tried it. It didn't impress me as anything spectacularly useful, necessary or different.
I'm sticking with my standard supplies:
Balistol
Cleaning brushes, etc.
TW25 lube.
You may use whatever you want, you don't need my permission. This "mania" for frog lube just strikes me as ridiculous.
If you like the stuff use it, I just don't get it.
Different strokes for different folks, so to speak.
:ph34r:
Fair enough.
Yeah I guess you're right. :rolleyes: I surely don't shoot at all and I surely spend a lot of time cleaning my AR's. Just ask anyone who has seen my AR's how clean they are.
Try again.
Used it. Wasn't impressed.
Just a new hyped lubrication that doesn't do much more than anything else does.
Shoot your weapons. Clean them. Lube them. Shoot them. Lube them. Rinse. Repeat.
You don't need "Frog Lube" ... it's just a stupid thing that appeals to people who spend more time cleaning their guns and lubing them, than actually putting them to any real use.
Yeah I guess you're right. :rolleyes: I surely don't shoot at all and I surely spend a lot of time cleaning my AR's. Just ask anyone who has seen my AR's how clean they are.
If you like it and it works for you, great. Knock yourself out.
SeriousStudent
08-11-13, 18:18
ptmccain: Enough.
We get it, you are not a fan. Stop.
Quit posting in this thread. Your participation in this thread is over.
That's what it's supposed to do. That's the reason it's still there when the gun is fired... and heats up a little. The lube starts flowing again.
I mean it got sticky like syrup, or glue, or tree sap, not like cold froglube from the bottle.
I'm not sure what this matters. :confused:
Despite what the piston sales ****s tell you... the BCG never gets that hot in a DI gun.
It's not about max temp over short time. Otherwise, breakfree clp would last just as long as slip2000, as they both are well above the temp of the bcg in flashpoint.
Come on guys, lets agree to disagree. I know people who love froglube, while others like myself have moved on. (Team Fireclean all the way!)
Don't prosecute someone for liking a different flavor of kool aid.
Arguing about lubes. Are we at a sex toy get together or something? Ghey! :)
And if your favorite kool aid VIP3R isn't lemon berry then I'll put you in my ignore list corner. :mad:
-Jax
theblackknight
08-11-13, 23:08
Pretty useless, since you have to be a member of that forum in order to view.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
<<<<<<
On Lubricants, wear, and snake oil
Per a request in another thread (Link Here) I'm going to combine some posts I've made on various forums related to lubricants for your weapons (and cars, etc). I've got degrees in materials engineering (metallurgy) and 6 years in a professional materials lab for experience. I'm not saying that to be a pompous ass, but just so you know that I'm not hand waving this stuff, and that there is real science to back up what I'm about to say. We have lots of very smart guys around here, and this is my one little area of solid technical knowledge from which I can talk sort of legitimately. Feel free to take it for what it’s worth. I’m happy to contribute and answer any questions that I can about this stuff if you are still curious after going through it.
The Problem
Tribology is the official name for the study of friction and wear. I don’t exactly specialize in that, but I encounter it in nearly every job I do. We have a guy on staff who is a dedicated tribologist. Imagine all of the different industries where friction and wear cost people money. Many billions of dollars per year are lost in the aerospace, military, public transportation, heavy equipment, shipping, delivery, over-the-road trucking, commercial automotive, fleet maintenance, highway/bridge, etc industries. Corrosion and wear is a massive – never ending problem that we all must deal with eventually. Materials have come a long way, but not nearly enough to negate corrosion and wear.
What I've seen
I work on quite a few different product lines from small valves to full scale jet engines. One of the biggest sources of work comes from aircraft landing gear. I’m talking about the big stuff: F15, F18, A380, 747, 737, A330, etc. These parts go through some of the most intense environments you can imagine. The navy stuff gets sprayed and washed with salt water, sand blasted in the desert, run way too hot, and over used between overhauls. The commercial stuff goes from freezing cold flying at cruising altitude to burning lava hot when using full power braking on short runways and overloaded with people. They get hit with rain, snow, sleet, and anything else you can think of. They fly through smog and acid rain. They get sprayed with complex and aggressive de-icing chemicals. It is definitely on the way towards a worst case scenario for complex metallic assemblies.
R&D
There is and has always been huge money dropped into R&D to slow or prevent friction, corrosion, and wear. If you think through all of those industries and the money they have to bring to the table, they are very interested in saving money. We use Timken bearings like most of the rest of the free world…because they are the best. They pride themselves on the best materials, the best manufacturing processes, and the most reliable bearings. If they tell you a lubricant to use on their products, you can take to the bank they’ve tested everything.
Imagine you were tinkering in your garage one day and felt like you came up with a better lubricant than anything else on the market. You started selling it in little bottles online for $5 because you want to be friendly to your community. Do you really believe that these industries don’t have people out looking to buy the little bottles just in case you are right? They would buy the little bottle, run it through a series of chemical tests, and realize it’s no different than anything they’ve got and toss it out. Do you really believe that you could whip up something better than what these massive industries spend millions and millions of dollars on doing research every year? I highly doubt it.
If you could go to the US Military (or any industry listed above) and tell them you had a lubricant that would save them money on replacement parts for their tanks, trucks, or aircraft you could retire to Hawaii and never work again. I’m not saying this to discourage people from trying to invent things. I’m simply stating that it’s unlikely.
The Point
If you take the service environments of all the industries (especially the landing gear one!) and compare it to the environment your pistols, rifles, and shotguns might see it’s sort of a worst case. The pointy spear guys may get closer than most of us, but let’s face it…many of our guns are babied. Lubricants that are recommended and used by these industries are probably good enough for the things we may encounter right?
Guess what they recommend, nearly ubiquitously…Bearing Grease. It’s dirt cheap, it’s easy to find, and a small $4 tub will last you years. There are different kinds for different uses, but even the most expensive is still cheap compared to the fancy gun lubes. The one we prefer at my company is Mobil 1 Synthetic Bearing Grease. I picked up a grease gun size tube and use a syringe to apply it. Any of the high-temp greases will probably work fine.
Grease is designed to trap particles of grit and stop them from bridging the gap between components. Imagine the small gap between your slide and slide rails. If a piece of sand is introduced and the sand bridges the gap it will cut scratches into both sides. This is called abrasive wear. As these scratches get deeper and more severe the surface area increases which leads to more corrosion. As the small grooves get deeper and wider the displaced metal can come off as small particles leading to even more abrasive particles. Finally these particles can roughen the surface so much they start to be in contact all the time. This is when galling happens and things get sticky and can eventually seize together. We see this often in bearing failures. Grit bridging the gap leads to abrasive wear which leads to adhesive wear. Grease is designed to encapsulate the grit and maintain the lubrication barrier on both sides. Oil in your car does the same with impurities. That is why oil is clear when you first put it in and black and thick when you change it. The oil is carrying the impurities so they don’t wear on the components while maintaining that lubrication barrier.
When you put something like remoil on your gun you are making a very thin layer of protective lubricant. The gun may feel very smooth and nice after first cleaning, but it has very little ability to prevent grit from bridging. On a tight tolerance gun like a 1911 or AR-15, preventing grit is especially important. I’ve heard guys from Iraq say that grease on an AR attracts dirt and sand and requires more cleaning. I would suggest it was simply trapping the grit that was being introduced to the gun mechanism rather than letting it grind its way through and then exit. Grease will fill the gap provided and won’t be too thick. I’ve used it on all different types of guns and never had them seize in the winter or any other nonsense you hear to try and sell you other expensive products. On my Glocks I put a small amount on the rails and barrel and nowhere else. When I lube my sig, I fill the rails and then work the slide which will press out any extra leaving the gaps nice and full.
Keep in mind the old saying “if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.” On that note, the next post will deal specifically with the newest and most dishonest snake oil I’ve seen…FrogLube.
theblackknight
08-11-13, 23:10
Part 2: the death of a toad.
Froglube is a newish lubricant and CLP company which markets products that are supposedly far and away better than anything else out there. The directions for application can be found on the website but include applying heat so the product can “soak into the metal.” When you shoot and need the lubricant it “wicks out” of the “pores and micro-fissures” in the metal. I think I know how and why it acts like it does these things and I’ll put my guess at the end…but suffice it to say that this stuff absolutely does not soak into metal and absolutely does not wick back out of the metal as if it was smart enough to know when it was being called upon.
I’m not saying that the stuff isn't a good lubricant. I wrote this on another forum.
This is directly from their website...(emphasis mine)
The bolded lines are outright bold faced (pun!) lies. If your gun parts have "micro fissures" you have troubles more severe than "sticking points." Call up Sig and tell them that your lubricant soaks into the micro fissures in their slides and they'll kindly explain that they don't make slides with "fissures." I’ve looked at thousands of cross sectional mounts from various metals at more than 100,000X magnification and have never seen anything like micro-fissures in otherwise properly manufactured components. The steels used to make gun parts are either forged and machined or machined from billet. Billet is initially cast at a mill, but then hot worked to remove any latent defects and porosity. Forging essentially smashes out any porosity. Only the absolute cheapest shit guns out there have cast parts (die cast or sand cast) and even these have a high quality skin on the outside with some closed porosity on the inside. A few small components are investment cast which is about as high quality as forging or billet.
Here is a good example of what happens when a substance "wicks" into a solid metal. This is mercury being poured on aluminum. Cadmium, tin, and others can do this to steel if the conditions are right. Very telling and certainly not something any of us want to see. I’m perfectly happy with nothing wicking into my gun parts thank you very much.
Z7Ilxsu-JlY
The embrittlement that DRM mentioned in the earlier thread is sort of a corollary to what we see in the video below. In that instance certain elements (oxygen, silicon, magnesium, etc) are moving from being dispersed throughout the metal to being grouped in certain areas. The metal can fracture easily along these paths. Imagine a 3-D spiderweb of glass inside a steel block. If you hit it with a hammer it could shatter and break along these thin glass planes even if the steel itself is in good condition. If you picture this you wouldn’t be too far off from what was happening for real.
My Guess
I mentioned earlier I had a guess for how FrogLube was actually working. It’s only a guess but I think it’s plausible.
Shear Thinning. Blood, paint, etc all exhibit this behavior. If a shear thinning substance is stationary, it gets thick, and sometimes even almost solid. When you try to move it around it will get thin and act more like water. Imagine paint. You dip your paint brush in a bucket and the paint is nice and thick so it doesn't drip on the floor. When you drag it on the wall, the shear between the brush and wall makes the paint act thin and watery. Once it's on the wall it gets thick again so it won't run. That's shear thinning.
I can't guarantee that's what froglube is doing because I don't know the chemistry, but I can tell you it's very common with both liquids and polymers. The lube could be dry, clear, and semi-solid on the gun parts when at rest so wiping afterward doesn't remove it. Under friction and heat from shooting it could act more like a liquid including looking wet.
The only other thing that is amazing to me is how they turned a bunch of guys in the gun culture into environmentalists. Lots of people who swear by this lube will claim its non-toxic composition and aroma as their main reasons for buying it. That’s fantastic marketing.
Other TPI lubrication threads:
http://www.totalprotectioninteractive.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7558
theblackknight
08-11-13, 23:15
Why is Froglube bullshit? Read above. The talk of people pre-heating their BCG's is fukking nuts. The claims they make are bullshit. While the product does in fact work, so does most other things that come in a tube/tub at advanced auto. Solvents and copper remover is surely one thing, but this super lube fanboi shit is just as gay as asking The Costa what he uses to groom his beard.
gesundheit
08-12-13, 02:25
as gay as asking The Costa what he uses to groom his beard.
He uses froglube.
What kinda ammo do you shoot? Did you properly strip it before your initial FL application? Did you use paste or liquid?
I use liquid FL and totally stripped mine before initial application. I shoot reloads loaded with WC844 powder. I just ran out of liquid so I lubed back up with paste last night. Will see if that makes any difference.
Mk318
Stripped
Mix of paste and liquid.
Thank you for the informative post Black Knight. I am always interested in trying a new product before developing an opinion and reading your post bears out what I observed. I tried Frog Lube and it worked OK, but I won't be buying any more.
Posted below are pics of products I have been using for 25+ years on the M-14, M1A, Ithaca 37, Remington 870, 1911, Glock, AR-15, etc. and they still work well.
Why is Froglube bullshit? Read above. The talk of people pre-heating their BCG's is fukking nuts. The claims they make are bullshit. While the product does in fact work, so does most other things that come in a tube/tub at advanced auto. Solvents and copper remover is surely one thing, but this super lube fanboi shit is just as gay as asking The Costa what he uses to groom his beard.
Can you be more specific?
The main driving factor that attracted me to FL was that it stays where you put it; I like that the lubricant didn't seem to all flow towards the receiver extension while the weapon was stored vertically in my safe. The comments regarding the paste-like, or syrupy texture that it transforms to after useage was true in my experience; and led to failures to fully chamber in colder weather (cold being relative as I am in Las Vegas).
I have now begun using Fireclean and while it does migrate to an extent, it does seem to remain in place much more than SLIP or other lubricants that I have tried.
BTL BRN, what temps did you experience these failures in? How much lube did you have on you bolt when it happened?
I had a beard, that's exactly what I'd use to groom it with too.
I spoke with my the people in my last Anchorage class and I was told that they didn't experience any issues with it.
I spoke with people in Washington and Michigan as well and they all had positive things to say.
BTL BRN, what temps did you experience these failures in? How much lube did you have on you bolt when it happened?
I spoke with my the people in my last Anchorage class and I was told that they didn't experience any issues with it.
I spoke with people in Washington and Michigan as well and they all had positive things to say.
I live in Wisconsin and had no issues this past winter.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
Why is Froglube bullshit?
Why is it so much easier to clean up? I used to get carbon/powder/whatever deposits on the rails, feed ramp, area of my stainless 1911. Used to have get a nylon bristle brush, couple of different solvents, had to do it outside. Now I just get a rag and few drops of FL and everything cleans right up with one old rag. I'm pretty sure I'm not imagining this because it keeps happening.
I've used practically every other oil, lube, solvent, or whatever and never noticed this happen before.
Why is FrogLube so easy to clean up?
theblackknight
08-12-13, 20:52
Can you be more specific?
Fully read my quoted posts above, as it is not my post, just a repost of another forum which is private. A post by someone very qualified to talk about lube and metallic wear. A post that points out that Froglube's claim of "creeps deep into the micro fissures of the metal" is bullshit.
Correct me if I am wrong. He hasn't actually used it on a firearm and shot it, correct?
Not that I really care because people who actually shoot and use it for the most part get it.
Fully read my quoted posts above, as it is not my post, just a repost of another forum which is private. A post by someone very qualified to talk about lube and metallic wear. A post that points out that Froglube's claim of "creeps deep into the micro fissures of the metal" is bullshit.
I have been using frog lube for a few months now. I never applied it the "correct" way. I just cleaned my guns thoroughly, removing as much of the old lube as I could, and then I slathered on the frog lube. Everything was room temperature( gasp... OMG!). Guess what, so far it has worked pretty darn good. No problems, and easy cleaning sessions. I honestly bought it because I figured if it worked Ok I'd rather deal with it then petroleum or synthetic lubes.
I have wax lube for my mountain bike chain and I suspect frog lube works pretty similarly. I have qc experience in heavy equipment manufacturing and I knew from the start that some of frog lubes claims are scientifically unsound. Irregardless of their poor understanding of materials, such as the surface of metal parts, the product does work.
I do plan on gunking my guns up and shooting them cold this winter, we'll see how it goes then...
The only other thing that is amazing to me is how they turned a bunch of guys in the gun culture into environmentalists. Lots of people who swear by this lube will claim its non-toxic composition and aroma as their main reasons for buying it. That’s fantastic marketing.
I chuckled at this, but it's very true.
I only RECENTLY switched over to Froglube. Previous to using the FrogLube, I had been using synthetic wheel bearing grease for a few years. $7 bought me a pount of the stuff at Autozone, more than I could use in a life time for sure. Never had an issue with it, aside from being hard to clean up after (it collects grit pretty easily). But I only used the grease for lubrication... and a good CLP for rust protection and easy clean-up (I've always liked Weaponshield).
Anyhow, the reason I like Froglube is how "clean" it is. I'm not talking about the guns, I mean the lube itself. I dip my fingers into the grease, loosen it up by rubbing my hands together, and coat everything I can get my fingers on with it. Wipe my hands off, and any excess, and I'm done.
I think others in the industry could take notes from what Froglube is doing. "Environmentally friendly" or not, it makes cleaning guns a lot more appealing than anything else I've used in an arosol can or syringe.
theblackknight
08-12-13, 21:26
I'm not certain what this guy from the internet has done. However, why pay for something that makes false claims? I've got some Oral IV for 12$, pm me for shipping!
I've used it because I had a handful of samples thrown at me. It works fine. But not 30$ per 8oz works.
We aren't talking about Oral IV are we?
I also don't think that 30.00 price you quoted is accurate either. In any case I am staying clear of this now.
I'm not certain what this guy from the internet has done. However, why pay for something that makes false claims? I've got some Oral IV for 12$, pm me for shipping!
I've used it because I had a handful of samples thrown at me. It works fine. But not 30$ per 8oz works.
I've been exposed to enough POL in my career. FL gets the job done and isn't toxic, that's a plus.
theblackknight
08-12-13, 22:39
We aren't talking about Oral IV are we?
I also don't think that 30.00 price you quoted is accurate either. In any case I am staying clear of this now.
It's called a parallel.
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/oils-lubricants/lubricant-protectant-oils/frog-lube-liquid-8-oz--sku100011191-45095-111970.aspx?mc_id=12000&ch=csh&gdftrk=gdfV21820_a_7c187_a_7c7313_a_7c100011191_d_100008817_d_10192
SpeedRacer
08-12-13, 22:51
I had never read their claims, I simply had complaints about every other libe product I have tried and some BTDT guys I personally know and trust turned me on to FL. Tried it, loved it, have used it for years. Primarily because it stays put, works well, and I can clean and lube guns without the old lady complaining about the smell. I honestly don't care if they claim it cures cancer or who the hell they pay to endorse it. Until something better, and even more minty fresh comes along I'll stick with it, because it works.
Imagine you were tinkering in your garage one day and felt like you came up with a better lubricant than anything else on the market. You started selling it in little bottles online for $5 because you want to be friendly to your community. Do you really believe that these industries don’t have people out looking to buy the little bottles just in case you are right? They would buy the little bottle, run it through a series of chemical tests, and realize it’s no different than anything they’ve got and toss it out. Do you really believe that you could whip up something better than what these massive industries spend millions and millions of dollars on doing research every year? I highly doubt it.
----I know you quoted this, but I couldn't quote a quote.
I can see where all of the red flags are being raised by the marketing. However, this needs to be put into context.
I don't think Frog Lube was "invented" by a tinkerer...or even invented by the owner of Frog Lube. It isn't an original base formulation or an original idea. It is simply a re-branded product. This is likely a source of all of the crazy claims...overzealous marketing. In such a business, the marketing people are generally not the chemists or formulation people. As a consumer, I've seen and heard so much marketing BS that I really don't pay attention anymore. I've developed a filter for this, as should anyone.
I've been using it for 6 months and it works fine. I don't believe in wonder lubes, but I like how well it cleans, no carcinogens (Mom is a cancer survivor and I have inhaled enough crap for two lifetimes while earning a bachelors in Chemistry), smells fine enough to use in the house, and it stays put during storage.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=93495
----I know you quoted this, but I couldn't quote a quote.
I can see where all of the red flags are being raised by the marketing. However, this needs to be put into context.
I don't think Frog Lube was "invented" by a tinkerer...or even invented by the owner of Frog Lube. It isn't an original base formulation or an original idea. It is simply a re-branded product. This is likely a source of all of the crazy claims...overzealous marketing. In such a business, the marketing people are generally not the chemists or formulation people. As a consumer, I've seen and heard so much marketing BS that I really don't pay attention anymore. I've developed a filter for this, as should anyone.
I've been using it for 6 months and it works fine. I don't believe in wonder lubes, but I like how well it cleans, no carcinogens (Mom is a cancer survivor and I have inhaled enough crap for two lifetimes while earning a bachelors in Chemistry), smells fine enough to use in the house, and it stays put during storage.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=93495
It was invented by a company with decades of experience in bio-friendly lubricant technology.
http://www.trillium-solutions.net/
Not some tinkerer in his garage.
I've used Frog Lube and wasn't particularly impressed with it. Having shot muzzle loaders for a long time I noticed that it is, except for color, identical to Thompson Center Natural Lube 1000. In fact, the similarity was so great that I felt compelled to try T/C on my AR and, again, had similar results. Wiping things clean was easy enough. But my confidence in it as a lubricant was severely lacking.
My issues main issue with Frog Lube is that the company that makes (or distributes it) refuses to tell you anything about it. What's its load wear index? How did it perform in 4-ball wear tests? Salt exposure testing? Etc. There are all sorts of tests and standards against which Frog Lube should be measured but hasn't. These are scores the various CLP and grease makers don't hide from their buyers - you can download them from the makers' sites.
The cult following on this board that Frog Lube has is ironic to say the least. For a board that excoriates members who buy a Bushmaster or a DPMS because it isn't "battle proven," or doesn't have the right marks on it, eats up a product that appears to be nothing more than a vegetable based goo with no credentials.
Frog Lube seems to be the DPMS of lubricants.
I've used Frog Lube and wasn't particularly impressed with it. Having shot muzzle loaders for a long time I noticed that it is, except for color, identical to Thompson Center Natural Lube 1000. In fact, the similarity was so great that I felt compelled to try T/C on my AR and, again, had similar results. Wiping things clean was easy enough. But my confidence in it as a lubricant was severely lacking.
My issues main issue with Frog Lube is that the company that makes (or distributes it) refuses to tell you anything about it. What's its load wear index? Not sure. How did it perform in 4-ball wear tests? Very well. Coefficient of friction was pretty low, and scar size was about what you get from a good motor-oil.Salt exposure testing? I have not seen industry tests on it for this, but I personally know SF who have done combat swims in saltwater, and deployed to the jungle with it, and did not have issues. Etc. There are all sorts of tests and standards against which Frog Lube should be measured but hasn't. These are scores the various CLP and grease makers don't hide from their buyers - you can download them from the makers' sites.
The cult following on this board that Frog Lube has is ironic to say the least. For a board that excoriates members who buy a Bushmaster or a DPMS because it isn't "battle proven," or doesn't have the right marks on it, eats up a product that appears to be nothing more than a vegetable based goo with no credentials.
Actually, this board dislikes DPMS and BM because they shit the bed quite often under observable use. Froglube has done well under observable use. Your analogy is kaput.
Frog Lube seems to be the DPMS of lubricants.
Froglube functions well under hard use.
DPMS does not.
Argumentfail.
http://i44.tinypic.com/sfkwt4.jpg
Grizzlyatoms
08-13-13, 05:00
Lots of BM, DPMS & Froglube hate round here.:banghead:
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk 2
I've used Frog Lube and wasn't particularly impressed with it. Having shot muzzle loaders for a long time I noticed that it is, except for color, identical to Thompson Center Natural Lube 1000. In fact, the similarity was so great that I felt compelled to try T/C on my AR and, again, had similar results. Wiping things clean was easy enough. But my confidence in it as a lubricant was severely lacking.
My issues main issue with Frog Lube is that the company that makes (or distributes it) refuses to tell you anything about it. What's its load wear index? How did it perform in 4-ball wear tests? Salt exposure testing? Etc. There are all sorts of tests and standards against which Frog Lube should be measured but hasn't. These are scores the various CLP and grease makers don't hide from their buyers - you can download them from the makers' sites.
The cult following on this board that Frog Lube has is ironic to say the least. For a board that excoriates members who buy a Bushmaster or a DPMS because it isn't "battle proven," or doesn't have the right marks on it, eats up a product that appears to be nothing more than a vegetable based goo with no credentials.
Frog Lube seems to be the DPMS of lubricants.
Frog Lube works.
But I award you 3 troll points for implying that DPMS and Bushmaster are only popular here because of the roll mark.
Has anyone ever had any lube not work?
Some are thicker than others. Some stink, some don't. Gob the stuff on there and go shooting.
I think the word 'Frog Lube' sounds ridiculous, so I don't use it.
It was invented by a company with decades of experience in bio-friendly lubricant technology.
http://www.trillium-solutions.net/
Not some tinkerer in his garage.
Thank you for this. I am always on the lookout for snake oils and the like, but this makes me feel a lot better about the product. I am going to try some now.
Even if lubrication and protection qualities were the same as CLP, Militec, Slip 2000 (or whatever else), I would be inclined to use for the simple fact that my rifle sits next to me 10.5 hours are day in the front of my cruiser. Having a product that doesn't give me headaches from the smell is a worthwhile investment in and of itself. I also happen to think that it works very well.
Just my .02 worth, but I've been running froglube for a year now and have had no issues whatsoever with either the paste (what I usually use) or the liquid version.
That being said in the past I used breakfree CLP as well and had no issues either, though after the reviews & comments on these boards, I eventually moved to froglube.
Is it me or does it seem like 90% or more of the people who are against froglube have never used it? Its not like someone is asking you to try a new religion, Get a sample pack for $5 and if one doesn't like it then move on.
Eta: not specifically referring to anyone in particular
I love Froglube, due to the fact I've now developed some allergies to other CLPs and lubes. With Froglube I can clean and lube away, without any allergic reactions!
Is it me or does it seem like 90% or more of the people who are against froglube have never used it? Its not like someone is asking you to try a new religion, Get a sample pack for $5 and if one doesn't like it then move on.
Eta: not specifically referring to anyone in particular
Well, you can count me as the 10% that did use it.
I forget if it was here or TOS that I commented, but I was running an LMT upper/LRB lower that pretty much refused to operate one morning on the range (ambient temps in the 40's, IIRC). That kind of turned me off to it.
Fortunately I bought a sample pack so there's not a ton of it just lying around somewhere.
Well, you can count me as the 10% that did use it.
I forget if it was here or TOS that I commented, but I was running an LMT upper/LRB lower that pretty much refused to operate one morning on the range (ambient temps in the 40's, IIRC). That kind of turned me off to it.
Fortunately I bought a sample pack so there's not a ton of it just lying around somewhere.
Not that it can't happen but That's odd to me. I ran 285 rds in my bcm/mega combo last November in 18 degrees with 0 malfunctions and I was running tula. I did run very light froglube as per recommendations though. Ill definitely try it again this year. My main point though is most people don't actually use it like you did before condemning it as snake oil.
babypanther
08-13-13, 13:33
At my last quarter qualification for work, the firearms guys had some bottles of Froglube in the cleaning shed. I had heard about it before so I was really excited to try it out as a lubricant. Plus its pretty cool to have a clean minty smelling gun IMHO. I was very impressed that it seemed to stay in place even in the hot humid monsoon months here in Arizona. I liked it and Ill probably try and get some once my bottle of EWL 2000 runs out.
Well, you can count me as the 10% that did use it.
I forget if it was here or TOS that I commented, but I was running an LMT upper/LRB lower that pretty much refused to operate one morning on the range (ambient temps in the 40's, IIRC). That kind of turned me off to it.
Fortunately I bought a sample pack so there's not a ton of it just lying around somewhere.
Just curious, and it makes no difference what you decide to use or if t=you like FL or not, but did you follow all the directions. Th ereason I ask is because it seems that the posts I read where people experience problems with FL can be traced back to not prepping the weapon correctly.
Did you detail strip your weapon and take it down to bare metal... or bare finish ( blue, black, whatever ) with alcohol? Then did you "cook prep" the metals before application?
I haven't read many posts of gummy or sticky weapons after FL, but the ones I have read were always associated with improper initial prep of the weapon.
Again, I would just like to know for my personal benefit. In fact as much as I like FL, I got a free bottle of FireClean and intend to try that on an old Colt Cobra that is so gummed up the cylinder barely turns and no oil or lube I have used ( haven't FLd it ) works for long.
I used to shoot a lot. I'm getting married and figuring out budgets, etc.
What I'm thinking is I use a lot of oil, whether it be SLIP 2000, Hoppes #9, whatever. I put a lot of it in there, I scrub it clean periodically and we're good. I run the gun wet and I'm happy doing so. It's easier to clean and take care of.
I would like trying a grease based product that stayed and didn't leak on the trigger, through the charging handle, receiver extension, or on the trigger, etc.
I might mix FL and other lubes.
Why is that bad by the way? I'm not a complete amateur but oil is oil to a degree.
Has anyone ever had any lube not work?
Some are thicker than others. Some stink, some don't. Gob the stuff on there and go shooting.
I think the word 'Frog Lube' sounds ridiculous, so I don't use it.
Well there you go folks, a valid quantifiable reason not to use FL.
I used to shoot a lot. I'm getting married and figuring out budgets, etc.
What I'm thinking is I use a lot of oil, whether it be SLIP 2000, Hoppes #9, whatever. I put a lot of it in there, I scrub it clean periodically and we're good. I run the gun wet and I'm happy doing so. It's easier to clean and take care of.
I would like trying a grease based product that stayed and didn't leak on the trigger, through the charging handle, receiver extension, or on the trigger, etc.
I might mix FL and other lubes.
Why is that bad by the way? I'm not a complete amateur but oil is oil to a degree.
FL isn't petroleum based, which is why they recommend removing all lubrication before applying FL.
KingsideRook
08-13-13, 15:34
I used to shoot a lot. I'm getting married and figuring out budgets, etc.
What I'm thinking is I use a lot of oil, whether it be SLIP 2000, Hoppes #9, whatever. I put a lot of it in there, I scrub it clean periodically and we're good. I run the gun wet and I'm happy doing so. It's easier to clean and take care of.
I would like trying a grease based product that stayed and didn't leak on the trigger, through the charging handle, receiver extension, or on the trigger, etc.
I might mix FL and other lubes.
Why is that bad by the way? I'm not a complete amateur but oil is oil to a degree.
Use the paste Froglube - it won't run much when it's hot, and not at all when it's cool. Mixing up a batch of mystery oil with both petroleum based lubes, and non-petroleum based lubes is not going to help you, it's going to degrade your performance, and is specifically not recommended by lubricant manufacturers.
Use the paste Froglube - it won't run much when it's hot, and not at all when it's cool. Mixing up a batch of mystery oil with both petroleum based lubes, and non-petroleum based lubes is not going to help you, it's going to degrade your performance, and is specifically not recommended by lubricant manufacturers.
Makes sense, does it gum up the bolt lugs and barrel interaction? Or Bolt, Cam Pin and BCG?
KingsideRook
08-13-13, 16:05
Makes sense, does it gum up the bolt lugs and barrel interaction? Or Bolt, Cam Pin and BCG?
I'll assume you're speaking of the paste, and not a bastardized concoction of Froglube and other oils: Thus far, I have had no issue with paste, or paste mixed up with liquid, causing any part of my AR15 to gum up. I find the Froglube holds carbon very well, while still staying slippery, not gummy. Even a fairly thick coat of the paste allows the bolt and bolt carrier to work slickly even after several hundred rounds through the gun in an afternoon.
I have it on 6 AR15 rifles - only two of which have been fired several hundred rounds with Froglube - two Glocks, and a 1911, and my experience has been very positive. I use the undiluted paste on the alloy frame rails of the 1911 for the last 400 rounds, where I previously used Wilson Grease, and the gun feels much slicker than before.
Makes sense, does it gum up the bolt lugs and barrel interaction? Or Bolt, Cam Pin and BCG?
Gum it up? Not at all.
Just curious, and it makes no difference what you decide to use or if t=you like FL or not, but did you follow all the directions. Th ereason I ask is because it seems that the posts I read where people experience problems with FL can be traced back to not prepping the weapon correctly.
Did you detail strip your weapon and take it down to bare metal... or bare finish ( blue, black, whatever ) with alcohol? Then did you "cook prep" the metals before application?
I haven't read many posts of gummy or sticky weapons after FL, but the ones I have read were always associated with improper initial prep of the weapon.
I de-greased mine using alcohol, acetone, gun-scrubber, and then applied the Froglube using my oven. How is that improper?
Again, I would just like to know for my personal benefit. In fact as much as I like FL, I got a free bottle of FireClean and intend to try that on an old Colt Cobra that is so gummed up the cylinder barely turns and no oil or lube I have used ( haven't FLd it ) works for long.
I thought that was how it was supposed to be done?
NoveskeFan
08-13-13, 19:21
Are those that have had "gummy" parts with Froglube wiping off the Froglube after application (per the directions), or leaving it on? As I understand it, you wipe off all the lube after the parts have cooled, then lube friction points as needed. You leave the lube on for storage, but would wipe down & re-lube prior to use.
Are those that have had "gummy" parts with Froglube wiping off the Froglube after application (per the directions), or leaving it on? As I understand it, you wipe off all the lube after the parts have cooled, then lube friction points as needed. You leave the lube on for storage, but would wipe down & re-lube prior to use.
I was unaware that froglube became glue when left on in visible amounts.
NoveskeFan
08-13-13, 20:23
I was unaware that froglube became glue when left on in visible amounts.
Same here, just trying to narrow down if its user error or maybe bad batches of product. My experience with Froglube has been problem free...just ordered some more the other day and bought some in the EE here about a week ago.
Same here, just trying to narrow down if its user error or maybe bad batches of product. My experience with Froglube has been problem free...just ordered some more the other day and bought some in the EE here about a week ago.
It mixed with powder fouling and got sticky. It had sat in storage for weeks. I shot it. I wiped it down. I added more FL. A week later it felt like glue.
I thought that was how it was supposed to be done?
That is how it's supposed to be done. .... but a lot of people don't seem to do that. So are you saying your weapon got gummed up too?
That is how it's supposed to be done. .... but a lot of people don't seem to do that. So are you saying your weapon got gummed up too?
Like Elmer's stick glue.
NoveskeFan
08-13-13, 20:32
It mixed with powder fouling and got sticky. It had sat in storage for weeks. I shot it. I wiped it down. I added more FL. A week later it felt like glue.
I'm going to check my carbines in the morning. I've never noticed a sticky consistency. Actually, I have a BCG that's been sitting for several months in a ziploc bag slathered in Froglube that I can check.
I'm going to check my carbines in the morning. I've never noticed a sticky consistency. Actually, I have a BCG that's been sitting for several months in a ziploc bag slathered in Froglube that I can check.
Virgin is fine, it's once you ever fire that weapon that I noticed it gummed up. It probably wouldn't harm function, but thin tree sap doesn't belong on a BCG, and that's similar to how it felt.
@WS6
That is strange... I've got a couple weapons here right now that have just been shot and left to sit. No gummy, sticky, nothing remotely like that.
Blankwaffe
08-13-13, 20:33
tb-av,
Right or wrong I didn't do all the prep before applying the FL or SEAL 1.That said I mostly used the SEAL 1 as I feel its a superior product overall.....really liked the SEAL 1 liquid for cold weather.
I simply wiped whatever was on the parts off(typically some sort of conventional CLP) and applied the paste.Did that on multiple weapons,including handguns and saw no negative affects for nearly a year.In fact I even used Weapon Shield to add lube to the guns a couple times to get the funk knocked off in high round count scenarios.No issue there either.
I think all the shakin and bakin is going to extremes.In fact I think it may even initiate some early degradation to the lube,especially using the crock pot technique where its heated over and over again.I tried the oven and crock pot technique but decided that it was extra steps being taken that couldn't be replicated in the field easily,so I kept it simple and used what God gave me,fingers and the sun.Once a few rounds are fired the lube thins and migrates into the nooks and crannies.
I can say that with the SEAL 1 paste that its highly reactive to the slightest heat....the heat from a finger tip will make the paste soften immediately,spreading it with your fingers or even the friction from a cloth is all I saw the need for when applying the paste.
That said,as mentioned by NoveskeFan, I used the microfiber towel to wipe down and remove any excess after application.This further helped to spread the paste throughout the parts.
If applied heavily I did see some gummy issues after some extended use.So apply and wipe off excess is the key I think.
I didn't do all the prep before applying the FL or SEAL 1.
I think all the shakin and bakin is going to extremes.
Perhaps, but when the manufacturer tells you to do so and people don't, then have problems, it's kind of hard to simply place blame on the product.
I don't know what is going on with WS6 scenario since he used it properly.
Perhaps, but when the manufacturer tells you to do so and people don't, then have problems, it's kind of hard to simply place blame on the product.
I don't know what is going on with WS6 scenario since he used it properly.
Lots of crazy stuff has happened to my Noveske rifles. That's why I sold them, except for the abortion of an SBR I have from them. That's why I'm writing off the rust issues I had with Froglube. I don't know where they get their parts from or if they are correctly manufactured/spec'ed, and I think the rust has more to do with that rifle than the lube, as I have NEVER seen a REAL C158 bolt rust in the gun in just a couple of days after firing non-corrosive ammo.
Are those that have had "gummy" parts with Froglube wiping off the Froglube after application (per the directions), or leaving it on? As I understand it, you wipe off all the lube after the parts have cooled, then lube friction points as needed. You leave the lube on for storage, but would wipe down & re-lube prior to use.
I glob it on, leave it on, store, shoot, clean, don't clean, glob on more or don't...never had it get gummy at all.
BoringGuy45
08-13-13, 21:30
Ever since I started using Froglube, even after heavy range sessions, it takes maybe five minutes to clean up. I basically just run a rag over it and that's it.
Maybe it's snake oil, but it's snake oil that works pretty well. :D
I glob it on, leave it on, store, shoot, clean, don't clean, glob on more or don't...never had it get gummy at all.
This is what I do as well. I have had zero issues.
Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2
Blankwaffe
08-13-13, 21:49
I thought that was how it was supposed to be done?
Perhaps, but when the manufacturer tells you to do so and people don't, then have problems, it's kind of hard to simply place blame on the product.
I don't know what is going on with WS6 scenario since he used it properly.
Yeap,understand the manufacturers situation...Im a redneck that does some stupid things,and typically screw up enough to know Im generally at fault.But if I see an issue I typically don't repeat it more than a couple times..
That said I also realize that mixing lubes is typically not a good idea,and am not recommending that to anyone either.
I think that the main issue to avoid is using petro solvents,or solvented oils with the FL/S1.
Mil-comm is the same way and they clearly state that in their recommendations of cleaning the parts before using their lubes as well..
As stated above I think the amount of paste that is applied is the key.But Im sure there are some situations that may cause issues as well such as environmentals....aint a perfect world and all,so it can't be avoided.
Blankwaffe
08-13-13, 22:12
It mixed with powder fouling and got sticky. It had sat in storage for weeks. I shot it. I wiped it down. I added more FL. A week later it felt like glue.
Yeap,I had a similar situation with the paste after being out in typical southern high humidity and rain.With that said I had really neglected the gun as I was trying to test the paste to the limits, only wiped it down quickly before relubing for weeks.I actually think it was more to do with the powder fouling from the ammo I was using.Real nasty even after wiping and relubing.I think the fouling had actually absorbed moisture from the looks of the mess that was in there.
I think thats why a conventional liquid CLP shines that can float crap away, and by readily wetting the surfaces by penetrating what remains.
But in my experience,with the paste lube,applied,burnished in and quickly wiped with a microfiber towel to remove the clumps eliminates alot of issues with fouling accumulation.... Im preaching to the choir I know,but what I learned is the parts don't need so much paste on them that they look like a packed wheel bearing.
sinlessorrow
08-14-13, 01:56
I ditched it a long time ago. I still have some on the latch of my CTR stock and its pretty much a tacky substance now. It's been there for something like 3 weeks and in that time I guess it broke down or something, but its super sticky and you can tell when you press the latch.
Well, I de-greased the thing using Acetone this go. It's now as petrol free as it can be. Going to Froglube it up, and shoot 60 rounds through my can (10.5" suppressed SBR should be nice and dirty...) and take it home, wipe it off leisurely with Froglube, and let it set a few weeks, and we will see if she gets sticky again, since I am willing to accept that somehow, some way, just maybe, some petrol product got on it (otherwise why wouldn't EVERYONE c/o stickiness?).
Anyway...giving it the ol' go again.
little more than 7500 through the AR, God knows how many through my issued m4, about 650 or so through my new Glock 19, and around 450 through my 870...
have yet to have an issue with froglube. good kit
I forgot to mention I don't use the paste, only the liquid. I heat my weapons up with a hair dryer or heat gun until I can't touch them, then apply the Froglube. Let it cool off, wipe down, reapply, I did this 3 times. After putting a lot of rounds through a weapon you can see the stuff coming out of the metal.
Froglube changed their formula to make it less viscous if I'm not mistaken. They also offer a solvent just for Froglube now
theblackknight
08-14-13, 17:22
Is it me or does it seem like 90% or more of the people who are against froglube have never used it? Its not like someone is asking you to try a new religion, Get a sample pack for $5 and if one doesn't like it then move on.
Eta: not specifically referring to anyone in particular
Count me in as that 10%. I got the samples for free.
sent from mah gun,using my sights
Lots of crazy stuff has happened to my Noveske rifles. That's why I sold them, except for the abortion of an SBR I have from them. That's why I'm writing off the rust issues I had with Froglube. I don't know where they get their parts from or if they are correctly manufactured/spec'ed, and I think the rust has more to do with that rifle than the lube, as I have NEVER seen a REAL C158 bolt rust in the gun in just a couple of days after firing non-corrosive ammo.
Your Noveske is an abortion? How so?
I've never had a rust issue on any gun with any type of lubricant, including Russian military surplus (which, admittedly, was cleaned up after shooting)
Your Noveske is an abortion? How so?
I've never had a rust issue on any gun with any type of lubricant, including Russian military surplus (which, admittedly, was cleaned up after shooting)
Nothing seems in spec (owned two, sold the non-nfa, these are their combined issues). POI shift is a PITA. Lower won't fit other uppers and Daniel Defense mic'ed it as out of spec. Mags also don't seat to a normal depth. It is a full 1# heavier than other uppers with the same length rail/barrel combo. Just...fail.
sinlessorrow
08-14-13, 22:56
I wonder if the issues lay with the paste vs the liquid?
I used the real thick one that comes in the jar, but never tried the liquid version.
I wonder if the issues lay with the paste vs the liquid?
I used the real thick one that comes in the jar, but never tried the liquid version.
I used the CLP, dumped 60 rounds through my 10.5'' w/can, and she's sitting in the closet.
sinlessorrow
08-14-13, 23:31
I used the CLP, dumped 60 rounds through my 10.5'' w/can, and she's sitting in the closet.
Should be interesting, the issues I had were with that paste you brush on. I never did try the thicker liquid one.
Should be interesting, the issues I had were with that paste you brush on. I never did try the thicker liquid one.
Well...we will see.
sinlessorrow
08-14-13, 23:47
So are you still a dealer for this IG?
Well, I de-greased the thing using Acetone this go. It's now as petrol free as it can be. Going to Froglube it up, and shoot 60 rounds through my can (10.5" suppressed SBR should be nice and dirty...) and take it home, wipe it off leisurely with Froglube, and let it set a few weeks, and we will see if she gets sticky again, since I am willing to accept that somehow, some way, just maybe, some petrol product got on it (otherwise why wouldn't EVERYONE c/o stickiness?).
Anyway...giving it the ol' go again.
I noticed a similar tackiness with the paste applied to my BCG. I wiped it clean and reapplied the liquid version. Still testing it out. I started using it in May and set out to try it for 6 months as a test drive period. I'm wondering if I used too much.
I noticed a similar tackiness with the paste applied to my BCG. I wiped it clean and reapplied the liquid version. Still testing it out. I started using it in May and set out to try it for 6 months as a test drive period. I'm wondering if I used too much.
It gummed up in a week or two with me. I've got a dirty Froglubed rifle sitting up right now, lol. I'll see how it goes.
I noticed a similar tackiness with the paste applied to my BCG. I wiped it clean and reapplied the liquid version. Still testing it out. I started using it in May and set out to try it for 6 months as a test drive period. I'm wondering if I used too much.
If too much of a lube causes issues with an AR... The lube is shit.
I noticed a similar tackiness with the paste applied to my BCG. I wiped it clean and reapplied the liquid version. Still testing it out. I started using it in May and set out to try it for 6 months as a test drive period. I'm wondering if I used too much.
Too much?
I really, REALLY don't think so.
KingsideRook
08-15-13, 10:23
If too much of a lube causes issues with an AR... The lube is shit.
Not speaking to the gumminess/stickiness issue, which I haven't seen with my firearms - but if someone decided to just pack paste of any sort into the BCG, be it Froglube paste, Wilson grease, or any other sort of non-liquid lube - at some point, I would expect there to be too much resistance from the grease/paste for the gun to run. I feel very certain that I could stop anything mechanical with enough paste or grease.
That said, with an AR15 BCG soaking wet or even dripping with liquid lube, like FP-10, Slip-2000, Mobil 1 or liquid Froglube, I would expect everything to run 100%. The moral here is probably not too put large amounts of thick, non-liquid lube on guns...I have made a habit of diluting the Froglube paste with the liquid, except on my 1911 and Glock slide rails.
*Disclaimer - I have no financial/emotional stake or otherwise in Froglube - it's just making my guns feel a lot slicker when I rack and shoot them, stays in place, cleans up fast and without stains, and doesn't reek. I'm very happy using it, though clearly, not everyone here is having 100% results with it, and I'm just working the problem because it's interesting to me.
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 15:44
little more than 7500 through the AR, God knows how many through my issued m4, about 650 or so through my new Glock 19, and around 450 through my 870...
have yet to have an issue with froglube. good kit
I have yet to have an issue with Mobil 1 Synthetic. Have over 10 times that round count in 5.56, 7.62, 9mm,.22LR, .45, ect.
Froglube is a solution looking for a problem. $30 a bottle? A Gallon of Rotela or M1 will last a lifetime and cost less than $20. Some spray bottles and needle bottles is all you need.
But hey, gota love marketing
I have yet to have an issue with Mobil 1 Synthetic.
That is my favorite firearm lube and it has worked well in all kinds of weather for a lot of years.
Especially if you like petroleum products and chemicals. Me not so much. Different strokes for different folks.
I have yet to have an issue with Mobil 1 Synthetic. Have over 10 times that round count in 5.56, 7.62, 9mm,.22LR, .45, ect.
Froglube is a solution looking for a problem. $30 a bottle? A Gallon of Rotela or M1 will last a lifetime and cost less than $20. Some spray bottles and needle bottles is all you need.
But hey, gota love marketing
I have yet to have an issue with Mobil 1 Synthetic. Have over 10 times that round count in 5.56, 7.62, 9mm,.22LR, .45, ect.
Froglube is a solution looking for a problem. $30 a bottle? A Gallon of Rotela or M1 will last a lifetime and cost less than $20. Some spray bottles and needle bottles is all you need.
But hey, gota love marketing
What are you paying $30 for?
sinlessorrow
08-15-13, 16:08
What are you paying $30 for?
The 8oz bottle which is about on par with the price of any non motor oil. Unless your talking CLP but thats just tash anyways.
You can get a 8oz paste and clp for $45 on amazon.
I have yet to have an issue with Mobil 1 Synthetic. Have over 10 times that round count in 5.56, 7.62, 9mm,.22LR, .45, ect.
Froglube is a solution looking for a problem. $30 a bottle? A Gallon of Rotela or M1 will last a lifetime and cost less than $20. Some spray bottles and needle bottles is all you need.
But hey, gota love marketing
When it come to the AR, mineral oil is a better value than synthetic. Synthetic oil has better film strength but that doesn't make a lick of difference in this case. The AR doesn't have any operating surfaces requiring a high film strength such as the rod to crankcase bearing in a piston engine. Cheap mineral oil will work just as good ad at one third the cost. Using Mobil One or other synthetic oil in your AR is a waste of money- it's just marketing hype.
Froglube at least has the advantage of being less toxic and lubricates long after the synthetic oil has run off
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 16:44
Especially if you like petroleum products and chemicals. Me not so much. Different strokes for different folks.
I could run corn oil in my truck, but that would make me a whiney liberal homo.
Ill stick with what works, whats cheaper, and availible.
Its not a blender for food processer. Lead, sulfur, copper and other metal resides are getting all over anything anyway.
How many people have died or got cancer from petro lube use in small arms?
Might as well sell all your guns and ammo since they have chemicals and can cause bodily harm, if you are that risk adverse.
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 16:49
When it come to the AR, mineral oil is a better value than synthetic. Synthetic oil has better film strength but that doesn't make a lick of difference in this case. The AR doesn't have any operating surfaces requiring a high film strength such as the rod to crankcase bearing in a piston engine. Cheap mineral oil will work just as good ad at one third the cost. Using Mobil One or other synthetic oil in your AR is a waste of money- it's just marketing hype.
Froglube at least has the advantage of being less toxic and lubricates long after the synthetic oil has run off
The cost difference between the two is negligible. When there is a controled det like there is in a gas engine, and Pressures rising above 50KPSI, I doubt synthetic would perform worse than dino. It's also better for the enviroment as less crude(made from byproducts) is needed to produce it.
It's always interesting to hear about less cost and what works being a factor in a place where spending money on more newer and seemly better stuff is pretty much the norm (i.e. multiple firearms types in multiple calibers, tons of ammo, sights, slings, lights, holsters, carrying bags & cases, lock boxes and safes, reloading equipment, hunting leases, training classes, competitions, travel expenses to previous 3, etc.....). If cost not convenience of technology was a factor, we'd all go back to 56k or 14.4K modems with m4cabine.net being a BBS not an internet site.
Anything that speeds cleaning and is practical to my lifestyle is better in my book. Both Froglube and Fireclean win over anything else I've used in the past in this regard. The fact that they are non-toxic just means something else will kill me first.
Noah
The 8oz bottle which is about on par with the price of any non motor oil. Unless your talking CLP but thats just tash anyways.
You can get a 8oz paste and clp for $45 on amazon.
I could run corn oil in my truck, but that would make me a whiney liberal homo.
Ill stick with what works, whats cheaper, and availible.
Its not a blender for food processer. Lead, sulfur, copper and other metal resides are getting all over anything anyway.
How many people have died or got cancer from petro lube use in small arms?
Might as well sell all your guns and ammo since they have chemicals and can cause bodily harm, if you are that risk adverse.
Care to inform as to the just-as-effective, readily available, incredibly affordable, chemical free, can't-cause-bodily-harm, alternative there is that will do what firearms do?
Didn't say synthetic oil performs worse than mineral oil, but the extra cost of the synthetic oil is wasted on an AR. If you are going to use the marketing scam claim, why spend the extra dough on synthetic oil? As I said before, Froglube lubricates longer than oil, synthetic or mineral and isn't toxic to the user, so it's not all hype. Maybe I won't get cancer from using motor oil but I don't like the nasty taste it leaves in my mouth when it gets on my skin. (No, it's not from licking it either.) ATF and hydraulic fluid is even worse.
If you don't use Froglube because it's not cost effective, fine. But arguing it's just marketing hype doesn't wash
sinlessorrow
08-15-13, 17:20
Care to inform as to the just-as-effective, readily available, incredibly affordable, chemical free, can't-cause-bodily-harm, alternative there is that will do what firearms do?
Any particular reason you quoted me? I was just stating that brownells sells the 8oz CLP for $30, but on Amazon you can get a 8oz CLP, 8oz Paste, lint free cloth, application brush, and spray nozzle for $45.
Its a much better deal than brownells over priced deal.
That said I am not a super fan of motor oil, my MK18 would be dried up in numerous spots after just 600 rounds using Mobil 1 Synthetic.
I have some more FL on the way to test on a different rifle. Well see how it goes. Still testing fireclean as well.
Any particular reason you quoted me? I was just stating that brownells sells the 8oz CLP for $30, but on Amazon you can get a 8oz CLP, 8oz Paste, lint free cloth, application brush, and spray nozzle for $45.
Its a much better deal than brownells over priced deal.
That said I am not a super fan of motor oil, my MK18 would be dried up in numerous spots after just 600 rounds using Mobil 1 Synthetic.
I have some more FL on the way to test on a different rifle. Well see how it goes. Still testing fireclean as well.
I had it multi quoted but when I read it again my intended reply was no longer needed. Just forgot and was too lazy to delete it later.+
I'm not terribly worried about lube in general. For years all I used was breakfree CLP and Remoil. Currently the AR's get ForgLube Paste (I love the smell, lack of nasty chemicals, and especially the way it doesn't run in storage) and Slip 2000 EWL on everything else.
theblackknight
08-15-13, 17:46
Care to inform as to the just-as-effective, readily available, incredibly affordable, chemical free, can't-cause-bodily-harm, alternative there is that will do what firearms do?
Supertech red high temp grease is 4$ for 14oz at walmart. They have a white lithium grease (ala tw25b) right next to it.I feel dumb because I paid 9$ for a lb of the same dam thing with Mobil1 on the can at the autoparts store.. Also, you can buy food service grease by the bucket that works well, and is all biodome safe and stuff obviously.
sent from mah gun,using my sights
Supertech red high temp grease is 4$ for 14oz at walmart. They have a white lithium grease (ala tw25b) right next to it.I feel dumb because I paid 9$ for a lb of the same dam thing with Mobil1 on the can at the autoparts store.. Also, you can buy food service grease by the bucket that works well, and is all biodome safe and stuff obviously.
That's great and all...but you can't use lithium grease in place of a firearm and ammunition. I don't think you followed the conversation and understood what I was asking.
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 17:52
It's always interesting to hear about less cost and what works being a factor in a place where spending money on more newer and seemly better stuff is pretty much the norm (i.e. multiple firearms types in multiple calibers, tons of ammo, sights, slings, lights, holsters, carrying bags & cases, lock boxes and safes, reloading equipment, hunting leases, training classes, competitions, travel expenses to previous 3, etc.....). If cost not convenience of technology was a factor, we'd all go back to 56k or 14.4K modems with m4cabine.net being a BBS not an internet site.
Anything that speeds cleaning and is practical to my lifestyle is better in my book. Both Froglube and Fireclean win over anything else I've used in the past in this regard. The fact that they are non-toxic just means something else will kill me first.
Noah
Prove there is a performance difference. You are asserting that Froglube performs better than a good motor oil. I say that the difference is negligible(if FL is even as good as motor oil) and the cost difference is paramount.
Its been proven numerous times over the years, that something like Mobil 1 is just as good if not better then most of the "gun lubes" on the market. Its marketing and trying sell people shit they don't need.
I have ZERO need for a lube that is edible (well maybe but thats a different thread) or something that is not petro base. We are talking about firearms here. Lead, Sulfur, Copper and other shit. You think the fact that the lube is edible and is non petro based makes a difference? If the price was even somewhat reasonable, The arguement could be made as cost would not be as much as a factor.
I remember when Miltec came out, and everyone here was parroting how its the latest greatest shit, and that they need to use it. They sent me a few cases of lube in Iraq, and I gave it out to my guys and kept half to use on guns in the armory container. Was no better then any other lube, and later as we all know, it was found that Miltec is a shit lube.
Then there was Weapon Shield and the other 10 brands that everyone said was the future and made such a huge difference. Atleast weaponshield was owned by a fluid engineer and lube expert who could talk the talk.
The only lube I use is Slip2K (I have a ton of it) and M1S. Slip2K is no better than M1S, same as any other lube I have ever used. You all can sit here and parrot the latest greatest shit, get your panties in a bunched bullshitting each other for all I care. In 5-10 years you will look back and say "what was that lizzard lube or something we used to use and pay $30 a bottle for?" ...long after they are gone.
Hype, pure and simple.
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 17:54
That's great and all...but you can't use lithium grease in place of a firearm and ammunition. I don't think you followed the conversation and understood what I was asking.
But it works great in machine guns and heavy beltfeds, along with the Mark19. Grease that bitch up!
Prove there is a performance difference. You are asserting that Froglube performs better than a good motor oil. I say that the difference is negligible(if FL is even as good as motor oil) and the cost difference is paramount.
Its been proven numerous times over the years, that something like Mobil 1 is just as good if not better then most of the "gun lubes" on the market. Its marketing and trying sell people shit they don't need.
I have ZERO need for a lube that is edible (well maybe but thats a different thread) or something that is not petro base. We are talking about firearms here. Lead, Sulfur, Copper and other shit. You think the fact that the lube is edible and is non petro based makes a difference? If the price was even somewhat reasonable, The arguement could be made as cost would not be as much as a factor.
I remember when Miltec came out, and everyone here was parroting how its the latest greatest shit, and that they need to use it. They sent me a few cases of lube in Iraq, and I gave it out to my guys and kept half to use on guns in the armory container. Was no better then any other lube, and later as we all know, it was found that Miltec is a shit lube.
Then there was Weapon Shield and the other 10 brands that everyone said was the future and made such a huge difference. Atleast weaponshield was owned by a fluid engineer and lube expert who could talk the talk.
The only lube I use is Slip2K (I have a ton of it) and M1S. Slip2K is no better than M1S, same as any other lube I have ever used. You all can sit here and parrot the latest greatest shit, get your panties in a bunched bullshitting each other for all I care. In 5-10 years you will look back and say "what was that lizzard lube or something we used to use and pay $30 a bottle for?" ...long after they are gone.
Hype, pure and simple.
Maybe I'm off base, but it seems to me that of the current posters, you are the one with his panties in a bunch. :confused:
sinlessorrow
08-15-13, 19:01
Turret you know what makes militec suck ass? Chlorinated esters.....thats what makes it suck ass, not to mention its detrimental characteristics to metal parts uner pressure. Nothing like a lubricant that can actually harm and crack bolt lugs.
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 19:07
Turret you know what makes militec suck ass? Chlorinated esters.....thats what makes it suck ass, not to mention its detrimental characteristics to metal parts uner pressure. Nothing like a lubricant that can actually harm and crack bolt lugs.
Gotcha.
The point is, lube technology has not changed. There is no revolutionary lube for engines, hydraulics , or similar applications. Why would it be any different for gun lube?
49 pages of hype.
steyrman13
08-15-13, 19:19
Gotcha.
The point is, lube technology has not changed. There is no revolutionary lube for engines, hydraulics , or similar applications. Why would it be any different for gun lube?
49 pages of hype.
I was under the impression given that synthetic oil is revolutionary to Dino oil.... Lucas oil does do wonders on older vehicles believe it or not. There are new things that come out that can be better than something previously proven. As stated earlier. Froglube is produced by a lube company.
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 19:32
I was under the impression given that synthetic oil is revolutionary to Dino oil.... Lucas oil does do wonders on older vehicles believe it or not. There are new things that come out that can be better than something previously proven. As stated earlier. Froglube is produced by a lube company.
Synthetic oil was "created" in the 1930's. That's almost 90 years ago. Not even close to the same comparison.
theblackknight
08-15-13, 19:37
I need to start selling this stuff. I bet the whole sale is low.
steyrman13
08-15-13, 19:40
Synthetic oil was "created" in the 1930's. That's almost 90 years ago. Not even close to the same comparison.
But they have been improving upon that version since then. All the way up into the 2000s. Even conventional oil has new additives from what was originally designed, so there are better versions now than before. I don't think anyone in this thread has said that froglube is some magical oil, just that it does certain things better than regular oil is my point. Especially releasing carbon from parts. Fire clean and froglube both work better than any clp or Mobil 1 or conventional motor oil I have ever used.
I have even gone almost as far as lubing an ar as LAV did on TAC TV and it still doesn't repel or make it easier to remove the carbon at the end of the day
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 19:56
But they have been improving upon that version since then. All the way up into the 2000s. Even conventional oil has new additives from what was originally designed, so there are better versions now than before. I don't think anyone in this thread has said that froglube is some magical oil, just that it does certain things better than regular oil is my point. Especially releasing carbon from parts. Fire clean and froglube both work better than any clp or Mobil 1 or conventional motor oil I have ever used.
I have even gone almost as far as lubing an ar as LAV did on TAC TV and it still doesn't repel or make it easier to remove the carbon at the end of the day
There is no proof whatsoever, except from people who don't have the understanding or experience to tell the difference.
Take 100 rifles and run 20K rounds through each one, 10 rifles each with 10 different lubes, and then, you may be on to something. All you and everyone else is doing is parroting shit you cannot prove.
"It smells nice and you can eat it". Keep buying your $30 a can lube, someone needs to stimulate this economy.
There is no proof whatsoever, except from people who don't have the understanding or experience to tell the difference.
Take 100 rifles and run 20K rounds through each one, 10 rifles each with 10 different lubes, and then, you may be on to something. All you and everyone else is doing is parroting shit you cannot prove.
"It smells nice and you can eat it". Keep buying your $30 a can lube, someone needs to stimulate this economy.
I cannot prove that FrogLube paste doesn't run when I put my rifle away?
Really? :confused:
There is no proof whatsoever, except from people who don't have the understanding or experience to tell the difference.
Take 100 rifles and run 20K rounds through each one, 10 rifles each with 10 different lubes, and then, you may be on to something. All you and everyone else is doing is parroting shit you cannot prove.
"It smells nice and you can eat it". Keep buying your $30 a can lube, someone needs to stimulate this economy.
Well, it claims to be non-toxic but I do not believe there are actually any standards that have to be met to print that on your label.
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 20:40
I cannot prove that FrogLube paste doesn't run when I put my rifle away?
Really? :confused:
Tell me how its better....
Oh, so now it doesn't run as much, its edible and it smells good.
Maybe I should start using Honey on my rifles, seems like it has the same properties and sure as hell is cheaper.
You do NOT want high Viscosity lubricants on an AR. There is a reason shit like grease and other common application lubes are not used on Ar's. It will gum up, will attract carbon, and induce malfunctions much quicker than a normal gun lube would.
SomeOtherGuy
08-15-13, 20:42
The major benefit of Froglube is that you can use the paste and have it sit on your BCG and other moving parts for months without evaporating or going anywhere.
Before using Froglube I used Slip2000EWL. It worked great, but would always mostly disappear from a gun after 1-2 months of non use. I had no malfunctions, but only because I squirted some extra on before any competition or major range session. That's OK, but gets old. Also having a ton of oily goop in your buffer tube gets old too.
Froglube doesn't necessarily make my guns run any better than if they were freshly oiled with just about any oil, but it sits there in storage, so I can take a gun that hasn't been used in months and just go use it without any malfunctions or dryness.
It also soaks up carbon like mad, but various other lubes are decent at that too, and if you spray new CLP on before each use it doesn't really matter.
My 2 cents. Use whatever lube you like. I've read the good reviews of Fireclean, and realize that there has been some "latest greatest new thing" every year or two for at least a decade now if not two or three, but for the moment FL is good enough for me to keep using.
sinlessorrow
08-15-13, 20:53
Tell me how its better....
Oh, so now it doesn't run as much, its edible and it smells good.
Maybe I should start using Honey on my rifles, seems like it has the same properties and sure as hell is cheaper.
You do NOT want high Viscosity lubricants on an AR. There is a reason shit like grease and other common application lubes are not used on Ar's. It will gum up, will attract carbon, and induce malfunctions much quicker than a normal gun lube would.
Dude I'm not the biggest supporter of froglube and I actually plan to give it another go, but its not like honey.
Its a slippery paste that turns into a liquid literally after 2 rounds have been fired. If you let it sit for a few it turns back to a paste.
One of the biggest things I saw it do is literally trap fouling in the paste and when you wipe that paste off every bit of fouling goes with it.
The fouling cannot spread or seep into other parts of the weapon.
I still had issues with its rust prevention but am going to give it another shot.
Prove there is a performance difference. You are asserting that Froglube performs better than a good motor oil. I say that the difference is negligible(if FL is even as good as motor oil) and the cost difference is paramount.
Its been proven numerous times over the years, that something like Mobil 1 is just as good if not better then most of the "gun lubes" on the market. Its marketing and trying sell people shit they don't need.
I have ZERO need for a lube that is edible (well maybe but thats a different thread) or something that is not petro base. We are talking about firearms here. Lead, Sulfur, Copper and other shit. You think the fact that the lube is edible and is non petro based makes a difference? If the price was even somewhat reasonable, The arguement could be made as cost would not be as much as a factor.
I remember when Miltec came out, and everyone here was parroting how its the latest greatest shit, and that they need to use it. They sent me a few cases of lube in Iraq, and I gave it out to my guys and kept half to use on guns in the armory container. Was no better then any other lube, and later as we all know, it was found that Miltec is a shit lube.
Then there was Weapon Shield and the other 10 brands that everyone said was the future and made such a huge difference. Atleast weaponshield was owned by a fluid engineer and lube expert who could talk the talk.
The only lube I use is Slip2K (I have a ton of it) and M1S. Slip2K is no better than M1S, same as any other lube I have ever used. You all can sit here and parrot the latest greatest shit, get your panties in a bunched bullshitting each other for all I care. In 5-10 years you will look back and say "what was that lizzard lube or something we used to use and pay $30 a bottle for?" ...long after they are gone.
Hype, pure and simple.
It's always interesting to hear about less cost and what works being a factor in a place where spending money on more newer and seemly better stuff is pretty much the norm (i.e. multiple firearms types in multiple calibers, tons of ammo, sights, slings, lights, holsters, carrying bags & cases, lock boxes and safes, reloading equipment, hunting leases, training classes, competitions, travel expenses to previous 3, etc.....). If cost not convenience of technology was a factor, we'd all go back to 56k or 14.4K modems with m4cabine.net being a BBS not an internet site.
Anything that speeds cleaning and is practical to my lifestyle is better in my book. Both Froglube and Fireclean win over anything else I've used in the past in this regard. The fact that they are non-toxic just means something else will kill me first.
Noah
You clearly didn't read my post but responded to other points from earlier in this thread I didn't use. I only said FL/FC speeds cleaning versus anything I've used in the past so it's better. I could care less about lube performance or cost. Never had a lube related failure regardless of the lube I've used and don't give it a second thought. Maybe one day I will and will address it when I get there. At this stage in my life, time is precious, so something that allows faster cleaning wins every time.
My point was that in my opinion a $30 difference in cost as a argument point on this site is silly as the cost of most weapons/accessories/stuff we're discussing and people have bought reviewed shot and ogled make a $30 discussion seem pretty silly. I'm not saying your argument is silly, just the $30 part here on this site. But if a $30 difference in firearms maintenance is important to you fantastic, it's just not deciding factor for me.
I get it, you like mobil 1. Excellent, I use it my cars because it's a heavily worldwide marketed (possibly hyped but don't care either) brand of motor oil. Does using mobile 1 allow me to clean my weapons faster than Frog Lube and Fireclean....In my experience, no, Mobil 1, 75W gear oil, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Lithium Green are great lubes but are a just mess and slow with respect to clean up. Can I prove it? Probably not, but who cares.
Don't take it personally that people are using FL/FC against your objections. Remember many many people think "The Olive Garden" serves good italian food and Red Lobster is their favorite seafood restaurant..........:jester:
Noah
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 20:57
The major benefit of Froglube is that you can use the paste and have it sit on your BCG and other moving parts for months without evaporating or going anywhere.
Before using Froglube I used Slip2000EWL. It worked great, but would always mostly disappear from a gun after 1-2 months of non use. I had no malfunctions, but only because I squirted some extra on before any competition or major range session. That's OK, but gets old. Also having a ton of oily goop in your buffer tube gets old too.
Froglube doesn't necessarily make my guns run any better than if they were freshly oiled with just about any oil, but it sits there in storage, so I can take a gun that hasn't been used in months and just go use it without any malfunctions or dryness.
It also soaks up carbon like mad, but various other lubes are decent at that too, and if you spray new CLP on before each use it doesn't really matter.
My 2 cents. Use whatever lube you like. I've read the good reviews of Fireclean, and realize that there has been some "latest greatest new thing" every year or two for at least a decade now if not two or three, but for the moment FL is good enough for me to keep using.
I don't know what the hell your talking about. I have Ar's including a MK12 that sat in a high humidity safe for almost 18 months, lubed with Slip2k, took it out and it was still lubed well and went out and shot 750 rounds of 75Gr BH's through it, without any lube being added.
If you know how to lube a gun then it should not be evaporating in a month.
CLP is a shitty product, and the only thing it does half way decent is lube. Ive gone through 10's of gallons of the shit as an armorer. If a rifle is lubed correctly, it will last a long time in storage. It even works as a lubricant during heavy firing schedules.
Motor Oil is still cheaper and is just as good if not a better lube than CLP and most of the other products on the market. At the price point, nothing comes close.
I have the distinct feeling the people pushing this shit either don't run their gear/guns hard enough to even notice the difference between products or enough of a sample size to even make a reasonable determination. Or they just repeat shit they read on the internet.
If I shot my rifle once a month for 100-200 rnds, I could use canola oil and it would probally run. Maybe I should market that @ $25 per 20oz and take over the lube market.
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 21:00
You clearly didn't read my post but responded to other points from earlier in this thread I didn't use. I only said FL/FC speeds cleaning versus anything I've used in the past so it's better. I could care less about lube performance or cost. Never had a lube related failure regardless of the lube I've used and don't give it a second thought. Maybe one day I will and will address it when I get there. At this stage in my life, time is precious, so something that allows faster cleaning wins every time.
My point was that in my opinion a $30 difference in cost as a argument point on this site is silly as the cost of most weapons/accessories/stuff we're discussing and people have bought reviewed shot and ogled make a $30 discussion seem pretty silly. I'm not saying your argument is silly, just the $30 part here on this site. But if a $30 difference in firearms maintenance is important to you fantastic, it's just not deciding factor for me.
I get it, you like mobil 1. Excellent, I use it my cars because it's a heavily worldwide marketed (possibly hyped but don't care either) brand of motor oil. Does using mobile 1 allow me to clean my weapons faster than Frog Lube and Fireclean....In my experience, no, Mobil 1, 75W gear oil, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Lithium Green are great lubes but are a just mess and slow with respect to clean up. Can I prove it? Probably not, but who cares.
Don't take it personally that people are using FL/FC against your objections. Remember many many people think "The Olive Garden" serves good italian food and Red Lobster is their favorite seafood restaurant..........:jester:
Noah
Who the hell cleans their guns?
Just keep adding lube until they stop working. Then you can clean them. People are way to anal retentitive when it comes to their guns. They do more harm overcleaning them then letting a good coating of carbon a lube coat the internals.
How long does $30 worth of FL last? How many aplications on how many guns?
Want to take a guess how long $30 of Motor Oil will last?
Red Lobster may suck , but I will stab someone in the throat for some Cheddar Bay Biscuits!
Tell me how its better....
Oh, so now it doesn't run as much, its edible and it smells good.
Maybe I should start using Honey on my rifles, seems like it has the same properties and sure as hell is cheaper.
You do NOT want high Viscosity lubricants on an AR. There is a reason shit like grease and other common application lubes are not used on Ar's. It will gum up, will attract carbon, and induce malfunctions much quicker than a normal gun lube would.
Now?
Pretty sure quite a few people have expressed their appreciation of a lube that doesn't run all throughout this thread. It isn't some new thing that came up in response to you trolling everybody.
I think anybody reading this thread very clearly understands that you think money is better spent on Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil, and why.
I doubt you need to keep hitting us over the head with your opinions ad nauseum.
I have the distinct feeling the people pushing this shit either don't run their gear/guns hard enough to even notice the difference between products or enough of a sample size to even make a reasonable determination. Or they just repeat shit they read on the internet.
If I shot my rifle once a month for 100-200 rnds, I could use canola oil and it would probally run. Maybe I should market that @ $25 per 20oz and take over the lube market.
Figured this would be your next argument. "I'm right because your personal experience doesn't matter because you don't shoot your guns enough". Gotta love the internet where Mobil employees boost sales in creative ways through demeaning others on internet gun forums. Can someone lock this thread please..........or rename it "TurrentGunner is right".
Noah
NoveskeFan
08-15-13, 21:14
How long does $30 worth of FL last? How many aplications on how many guns?
I'm about halfway through a 4oz tub of Froglube paste that I've been using for almost two years. 3 AR's, shotgun, .22 bolt action rifle, and 4 pistols. The paste goes very far. I've probably gone through 8-12 oz of the liquid in the same time frame. I mostly shoot the AR's and 3 pistols. Froglube is the best CLP I've used, thats why I switched. I just checked on a Froglubed BCG thats been sitting in a ziploc bag for the last several months, not sticky or gummy. Put a couple hundred rounds through my SBR about a month ago, didnt clean it afterwards. Everything looks fine.
TurretGunner
08-15-13, 21:15
Figured this would be your next argument. "I'm right because your personal experience doesn't matter because you don't shoot your guns enough". Gotta love the internet where Mobil employees boost sales in creative ways through demeaning others on internet gun forums. Can someone lock this thread please..........or rename it "TurrentGunner is right".
Noah
People have been using motor oil as lube for decades, its not some new fad. There is a 90% chance froglube won't even be on the market in 5-10 years.
I know of no major instiution that runs froglube and recomends it as a primary Lubricant for firearms, much less AR/Stoner rifles.......
And yes, I am clearly a Mobil 1 Employee. Where is my dvidends and stock options........?
It will gum up, will attract carbon, and induce malfunctions much quicker than a normal gun lube would.
Who the hell cleans their guns?
People are way to anal retentitive when it comes to their guns. They do more harm overcleaning them then letting a good coating of carbon a lube coat the internals.
:confused:
Red Lobster may suck , but I will stab someone in the throat for some Cheddar Bay Biscuits!
That I can agree with.
Sent via Tapatalk
sinlessorrow
08-15-13, 21:22
I don't know what the hell your talking about. I have Ar's including a MK12 that sat in a high humidity safe for almost 18 months, lubed with Slip2k, took it out and it was still lubed well and went out and shot 750 rounds of 75Gr BH's through it, without any lube being added.
If you know how to lube a gun then it should not be evaporating in a month.
CLP is a shitty product, and the only thing it does half way decent is lube. Ive gone through 10's of gallons of the shit as an armorer. If a rifle is lubed correctly, it will last a long time in storage. It even works as a lubricant during heavy firing schedules.
Motor Oil is still cheaper and is just as good if not a better lube than CLP and most of the other products on the market. At the price point, nothing comes close.
I have the distinct feeling the people pushing this shit either don't run their gear/guns hard enough to even notice the difference between products or enough of a sample size to even make a reasonable determination. Or they just repeat shit they read on the internet.
If I shot my rifle once a month for 100-200 rnds, I could use canola oil and it would probally run. Maybe I should market that @ $25 per 20oz and take over the lube market.
There is no denying that slip2000 runs. If I leave a gun in the safe for a week I can pull the BCG and there will be no lube on the rails.
There will be a protective film left behind that keeps rust away and all that jazz and its no surprise that a dry SR-15 will run well into the 1000 round mark.
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