Froglube

[JSantoro]

I have the distinct feeling

...that that's about enough.

I'm still working through the same quart of synthetic motor oil I bought 3yrs ago, but I'm not trying to fit myself for a halo over one small CBA among the untold numbers of others we all make to do this stuff.

FL works and works well, too, so if somebody's found their "works for me" because that's minty-smelling, or a paste, or or a color that pleases them, or the shape of the jar fits their rectum in the manner they prefer....

...they're not spending your money to get it, nor leaving your guns unlubed in the process, nor are they stupid to spend comparatively more money on one lube vs. another, that lets them spend less on broken parts and cooked guns, even if they threw a dart at a gunrag page that landed on a FrogLube ad to arrive at the decision.

Nobody's saving anybody time, money, or heartache by arguing against the "fad" lubes THAT WORK.

FL is not RemOil, nor the lube analogue of the Accuwedge....

Let's move on.

[TurretGunner]

I'm about halfway through a 4oz tub of Froglube paste that I've been using for almost two years. 3 AR's, shotgun, .22 bolt action rifle, and 4 pistols. The paste goes very far. I've probably gone through 8-12 oz of the liquid in the same time frame. I mostly shoot the AR's and 3 pistols. Froglube is the best CLP I've used, thats why I switched. I just checked on a Froglubed BCG thats been sitting in a ziploc bag for the last several months, not sticky or gummy. Put a couple hundred rounds through my SBR about a month ago, didnt clean it afterwards. Everything looks fine.

Thanks for the info. I'm not trying to be difficult, just objective.

Have you used the lube and run a gun hard, as in over 1K rounds in a day or weekend?

I ask because I rarely clean my person guns. A. There is no need to clean guns unless they are close to malfunction and B. I clean enough of them at work that it's the last thing I want to do with my time at home.

There is no such thing as a CLP, a REAL CLP that is. There are good Solvents that can be used for cleaning and there are good Lubes that can be used to , obviously, lube. Rust preventitive has more to do with enviroment and ensuring that the metal is coating with something that doen't allow moisture or a corrosive to touch the bare metal. My Lab Geeks at work also tell me that having an anode or metal that attracts rust or some shit like that close by, it will act as sacrificial lamb by attracting corrosives.

[TurretGunner]

:confused:



That I can agree with.

Sent via Tapatalk

The first quote, I was talking about high Viscocity lubes and what happens when mixed with burnt powder and carbon (not to mention what happens in cold weather)

The second , Is carbon that gets caked on with normal lube over the course of firing. Ive got Ar's that have never been cleaned, with anywhere from 500-4500 rounds through them, just keep adding lube.

Keep in mind, many bench rest type guys will not touch their barrel over the course of a season. Cleaning will change the POI and how the barrel shoots. I know that a bit extreame and not what we are talking about here, but it does have merit in some shooting disciplines.

The only two guns I clean regularly are shotguns and 1911's. For some reason, they choke if not cleaned after 500 or so rounds (sometimes less with the shotties).

[NoveskeFan]

Thanks for the info. I'm not trying to be difficult, just objective.

Have you used the lube and run a gun hard, as in over 1K rounds in a day or weekend?

I ask because I rarely clean my person guns. A. There is no need to clean guns unless they are close to malfunction and B. I clean enough of them at work that it's the last thing I want to do with my time at home.

There is no such thing as a CLP, a REAL CLP that is. There are good Solvents that can be used for cleaning and there are good Lubes that can be used to , obviously, lube. Rust preventitive has more to do with enviroment and ensuring that the metal is coating with something that doen't allow moisture or a corrosive to touch the bare metal. My Lab Geeks at work also tell me that having an anode or metal that attracts rust or some shit like that close by, it will act as sacrificial lamb by attracting corrosives.

I ran my duty pistol with FL to just shy of 800 rounds in a 3 day instructors course. I ran a carbine to around half that. All I did was run a bore snake through the barrels and put some liquid on the pistol rails and BCG. It works for me. A couple guys at the class had motor oil with them and would just dunk their BCG's. I dont recall then having any malfunctions either.

[TurretGunner]

...that that's about enough.

I'm still working through the same quart of synthetic motor oil I bought 3yrs ago, but I'm not trying to fit myself for a halo over one small CBA among the untold numbers of others we all make to do this stuff.

FL works and works well, too, so if somebody's found their "works for me" because that's minty-smelling, or a paste, or or a color that pleases them, or the shape of the jar fits their rectum in the manner they prefer....

...they're not spending your money to get it, nor leaving your guns unlubed in the process, nor are they stupid to spend comparatively more money on one lube vs. another, that lets them spend less on broken parts and cooked guns, even if they threw a dart at a gunrag page that landed on a FrogLube ad to arrive at the decision.

Nobody's saving anybody time, money, or heartache by arguing against the "fad" lubes THAT WORK.

FL is not RemOil, nor the lube analogue of the Accuwedge....

Let's move on.

Understood.

I still stand by my assertation that there is no PROOF that it reduces wear or will make a gun more reliable than other proven lubes.

People in the Industry and have a financial stake in similar products don't seem to look at things as objective.

It's no different then when site owners/dealers/ect only reccomend products they happen to sell or make. See it EVERY day on this site and ones just like it.

I just don't want to see people who are new/novice to this hobby/lifestyle go out there and waste money they could spend on gear/ammo/training on shit that is a literal waste of money (comparitivley). It does not help us here, and it does not help this hobby and sport.

[steyrman13]

Understood.

I still stand by my assertation that there is no PROOF that it reduces wear or will make a gun more reliable than other proven lubes.

People in the Industry and have a financial stake in similar products don't seem to look at things as objective.

It's no different then when site owners/dealers/ect only reccomend products they happen to sell or make. See it EVERY day on this site and ones just like it.

I just don't want to see people who are new/novice to this hobby/lifestyle go out there and waste money they could spend on gear/ammo/training on shit that is a literal waste of money (comparitivley). It does not help us here, and it does not help this hobby and sport.

I haven't seen anyone in this thread claim that it will reduce wear or prevent more malfunctions than motor oil.
I have no stake in it. I actually have two tubs, two bottles and have never opened either one nor used it on any of my weapons. I have used friends that have it and it seems to do what other state, stays in place when cool and lubes when wet.
I understand wanting to prevent some newbies here from dumping lots of money into something that they could spend on something better, but we are talking about $30 for 3 years worth or more. It's not like they are spending $1k on a DPMS.
But there are some benefits to Mobil 1 over FL. Cost $10 qt
There are benefits to FL- easier to clean up. Doesn't run as much as oil, "non-toxic" if it stands to be true
As far as smell, some people like burning oil fragrance some like spearmint.

[VIP3R 237]

FL works and works well, too, so if somebody's found their "works for me" because that's minty-smelling, or a paste, or or a color that pleases them, or the shape of the jar fits their rectum in the manner they prefer....

You sir may have out done yourself with this one. Bravo!

[sinlessorrow]

Understood.

I still stand by my assertation that there is no PROOF that it reduces wear or will make a gun more reliable than other proven lubes.

People in the Industry and have a financial stake in similar products don't seem to look at things as objective.

It's no different then when site owners/dealers/ect only reccomend products they happen to sell or make. See it EVERY day on this site and ones just like it.

I just don't want to see people who are new/novice to this hobby/lifestyle go out there and waste money they could spend on gear/ammo/training on shit that is a literal waste of money (comparitivley). It does not help us here, and it does not help this hobby and sport.

No one has made those claims.

I will tell you this, and this is what I liked about froglube and why I am getting more to try.

1. It does not run when sitting up, this means that it will stay on the BCG for months and be there when you need it. Other lubes run down the bore/RE when set up.

2. It turns to a liquid instantly after you fire and lubricates all the moving parts just like any other quality lube, slip2000, fire clean, ect.

3. When you let it sit up for about 4 minutes the lube thickens up to a paste and traps in all the fouling making for a super easy and super quick cleaning.

4. If you shoot it some more that will again turn to a liquid and that trapped fouling will do like any other lubricant and be suspended.

5. its completely bio degradable and will not harm you in any ways, and less harmful chemicals is always a good thing.

This is what I liked about it when I used it, but had a rust problem which I am willing to test again to see if it was my fault or the lubricants.

[WS6]

Thanks for the info. I'm not trying to be difficult, just objective.

Have you used the lube and run a gun hard, as in over 1K rounds in a day or weekend?

I ask because I rarely clean my person guns. A. There is no need to clean guns unless they are close to malfunction and B. I clean enough of them at work that it's the last thing I want to do with my time at home.

There is no such thing as a CLP, a REAL CLP that is. There are good Solvents that can be used for cleaning and there are good Lubes that can be used to , obviously, lube. Rust preventitive has more to do with enviroment and ensuring that the metal is coating with something that doen't allow moisture or a corrosive to touch the bare metal. My Lab Geeks at work also tell me that having an anode or metal that attracts rust or some shit like that close by, it will act as sacrificial lamb by attracting corrosives.

In lab testing, froglube has a low coefficient of friction (half of breakfree clp), produces a 56mm scar in the falex four ball. That is pretty decent lube, and better than mil spec.

In personal testing, froglube protects unfinished steel very well. Even from heavy concentration of saltwater. Operationally, a friend of mine used the clp froglube during combat salt water swims without issue.

In my own experiencence, and that of numerous others, it absolutely slaughters carbon fouling, and I have found it to very slowly work its way under brass smears on the brass deflector, fwiw.

It fills the C, L, and P pretty well.

[TurretGunner]

I haven't seen anyone in this thread claim that it will reduce wear or prevent more malfunctions than motor oil.
I have no stake in it. I actually have two tubs, two bottles and have never opened either one nor used it on any of my weapons. I have used friends that have it and it seems to do what other state, stays in place when cool and lubes when wet.
I understand wanting to prevent some newbies here from dumping lots of money into something that they could spend on something better, but we are talking about $30 for 3 years worth or more. It's not like they are spending $1k on a DPMS.
But there are some benefits to Mobil 1 over FL. Cost $10 qt
There are benefits to FL- easier to clean up. Doesn't run as much as oil, "non-toxic" if it stands to be true
As far as smell, some people like burning oil fragrance some like spearmint.

I don't know about spearmint...
www.youtube.com/embed/bPXVGQnJm0w

[SilverBullet432]

frog lube huh? i use the paste. i use it to clean the surface of my guns, smells sweet and keeps em' shiny! i however, do not use it as a lubricant, (again i have the paste) i tried it out on my .22. fte after fte.... sprayed break-free onto the action, not a single problem for the remainder of the 500 rounds i shot that day. i am sure that other frog products might work. i bought it really because the bubba at the gun shop swore by it. well, if it didnt work in my .22, im damn sure it wont work on my AR, but again, it does do a nice job of cleaning the metal though!! :D

[tremor64]

In lab testing, froglube has a low coefficient of friction (half of breakfree clp), produces a 56mm scar in the falex four ball. That is pretty decent lube, and better than mil spec.

In personal testing, froglube protects unfinished steel very well. Even from heavy concentration of saltwater. Operationally, a friend of mine used the clp froglube during combat salt water swims without issue.

In my own experiencence, and that of numerous others, it absolutely slaughters carbon fouling, and I have found it to very slowly work its way under brass smears on the brass deflector, fwiw.

It fills the C, L, and P pretty well.
what he said - had a chance to see some very serious guys train - most were using FL

[Iraqgunz]

I guess you missed the part where myself and others ran it through a Magpul Dynamics I/II Carbine course. I think we averaged about 1500 rounds per course. So yes, there have been plenty of people that have used it in high count courses.



Thanks for the info. I'm not trying to be difficult, just objective.

Have you used the lube and run a gun hard, as in over 1K rounds in a day or weekend?

I ask because I rarely clean my person guns. A. There is no need to clean guns unless they are close to malfunction and B. I clean enough of them at work that it's the last thing I want to do with my time at home.

There is no such thing as a CLP, a REAL CLP that is. There are good Solvents that can be used for cleaning and there are good Lubes that can be used to , obviously, lube. Rust preventitive has more to do with enviroment and ensuring that the metal is coating with something that doen't allow moisture or a corrosive to touch the bare metal. My Lab Geeks at work also tell me that having an anode or metal that attracts rust or some shit like that close by, it will act as sacrificial lamb by attracting corrosives.

[Caduceus]

Just curious, and it makes no difference what you decide to use or if t=you like FL or not, but did you follow all the directions. Th ereason I ask is because it seems that the posts I read where people experience problems with FL can be traced back to not prepping the weapon correctly.

Did you detail strip your weapon and take it down to bare metal... or bare finish ( blue, black, whatever ) with alcohol? Then did you "cook prep" the metals before application?

I haven't read many posts of gummy or sticky weapons after FL, but the ones I have read were always associated with improper initial prep of the weapon.

Again, I would just like to know for my personal benefit. In fact as much as I like FL, I got a free bottle of FireClean and intend to try that on an old Colt Cobra that is so gummed up the cylinder barely turns and no oil or lube I have used ( haven't FLd it ) works for long.

Sorry for the late reply; I lost track of this thread.

The LMT was sold to me by another board member as a lightly used 'complete' upper; I added a new LMT BCG and standard CH. Headspace passed with a go and no-go gauge.

I shot several hundred rounds with regular CLP before switching over. Yes, I followed the directions about stripping lube, putting in the oven, etc, and "curing" the parts before use. If you're a search-guru, you'll see some posts that I had about proper use; I followed the advice in those.

This was propably over a year ago, so going off memory (I have a log book at home if you want more exact numbers)... but I shot the rifle at least once where it functioned fine, before the episode where it was locking up. After each range trip I wipe things down and reapply lube (don't get too crazy, white-glove type of cleaning). The rifle would fire a round and not cycle the next round. Shooting from a bench, using either a Pmag or USGI (probably Brownell's, at that time), with factory 5.56 ammo (probably Federal or PMC x-tac). Fire, not chamber a round. Clear it, fire, not chamber a round. Happened a couple times before I got pissed, field stripped the rifle, wiped off the FL and put CLP on. Worked fine the rest of the day.

At that time, I had 2 AR's. One was my "control" group using regular CLP. The LMT/LRB was my trial one. I ditched FL since I didn't trust the rifle to fire consistently using it. I don't mind so much if my rifle has issues after a few hundred rounds in a range session, but the initial rounds? If I'm ever using that rifle in anger, those first rounds will be a lot more critical than 6 magazines later.

[Boss Hogg]

In lab testing, froglube has a low coefficient of friction (half of breakfree clp), produces a 56mm scar in the falex four ball. That is pretty decent lube, and better than mil spec.

In personal testing, froglube protects unfinished steel very well. Even from heavy concentration of saltwater. Operationally, a friend of mine used the clp froglube during combat salt water swims without issue.

In my own experiencence, and that of numerous others, it absolutely slaughters carbon fouling, and I have found it to very slowly work its way under brass smears on the brass deflector, fwiw.

It fills the C, L, and P pretty well.

You have been hammering Froglube on this forum and have recently been singing the praises of Rand CLP. Why the sudden renewed interest in FL? Does Rand not work as you had expected?

[Voodoochild]

The fact that this thread has made it to 51 pages astounds me. Obviously people are going to have to agree to disagree. If you like FL then great if you don't then great. Use what works for you and leave it at that.