View Full Version : New BCG?
das028
11-03-2007, 01:45 AM
Whats happening fellas. First let me say that I am fairly new when it comes to the AR platform. Anyway, I bought a Stag, and I plain on getting some training and taking a carbine class. I want to make this weapon is reliable as posible so I plan on Taking the correct measures.
What I am asking is that if I buy a brand new BCG will it drop in my rifle without any problems functionally wise and of coarse saftey wise.
Also would you guys recomend me taking my first class with my irons or some kind of optic (aimpoint).
Thanks in advance
Shihan
11-03-2007, 02:02 AM
A new BCG or a bolt should work fine but I would check headspace on the bolt first. Why do you want to replace the Stag BCG? There is nothing wrong with the carrier it just needs to be staked. I would take the class with the Aimpoint if thats what you will be using, it is alot faster than irons.
Cold Zero
11-03-2007, 10:02 AM
I would not replace the carrier, just make sure that the gas key is properly staked, MOACKS...cough.
I would replace the bolt with one that is M.P.I. tested, B.C.M., L.M.T., F.N. contract and then keep the original handy at class as a spare. The above bolts are available thru Grant, or other vendors on this board. It should drop in without worry or problem.
I would take the first class with irons. Use the irons till you master them and then move onto a red dot of your choice. M.H.O.:eek:
Failure2Stop
11-03-2007, 11:20 AM
Agree with above on Bolt/BGC.
Irons or OPtic, doesn't really matter, but take what you plan on actually using. Don't get an EoTech because you think it will make you faster for the class, but then switch back to irons at home because the batteries keep failing.
Do- attach a light. The most critical aspect of an engagement is seeing and identifying a threat. Same goes for home defense. Having that light on might make the difference between not seeing the murder/rapist hiding in a dark corner or popping your mother-in-law as she stumbles out of the crapper.
Iron sights work well with mounted lights by the way.
I prefer Aimpoints, but have also used irons extensively. Personal preference on this one.
das028
11-03-2007, 10:28 PM
I currenty use a ARMS #40 rear sight. Do you guys think I should use something I could adjust elevaton too? Its kind of a pain in the butt to be fulling with the FSP.
I currenty use a ARMS #40 rear sight. Do you guys think I should use something I could adjust elevaton too? Its kind of a pain in the butt to be fulling with the FSP. All elevation adjustments for zeroing are done on the front sight and the ARMS unit has worked well for me.
Cold Zero
11-04-2007, 08:57 AM
I currenty use a ARMS #40 rear sight..
I used to have the ARMS #40. You may want to consider switching to a rear sight that locks in the up position, such as a troy.
carbinero
11-04-2007, 10:33 AM
Since it was recommended highly above, I'll ask for specifics:
What's the most affordable way to add a reliable, useable light?
11B101ABN
11-04-2007, 03:06 PM
Surefire, Pentagon, there are several solutions to the light issue, just do your home work. for a more compact arrangement, some prefer options by Streamlight.
Mounting solutions also abound. Some prefer an intergrated light, VFG type set-up, some prefer a different arrangement. There are a plethora of mounting solutions available.
I dont use direct barrel mounts. That is mostly personal preference, though.
Failure2Stop
11-04-2007, 03:45 PM
Since it was recommended highly above, I'll ask for specifics:
What's the most affordable way to add a reliable, useable light?
It depends on handguard setup.
Quad rail handguards are pretty much ready to go, just grab whichever light appeals to you and stick it where you want it.
If you have standard HGs you can easily swap them out for non-freefloat railed HGs, or the DD Omega that freefloats. This is a very expensive (but sound) method to get a light on your weapon.
You could also buy mounting platforms for your rifle through midway, brownells or GG&G. There are some kinda iffy ones by CAA that provide a rail at 10:30, 12:00, and 1:00, or you can mount it on the lower HG and have rails at 4:30, 6:00, and 7:30. You could get a continous bottom rail and mount a SF 900 to that.
Remember, the railed HGs will be more expensive, for a reason. They are more secure and tougher.
Good value mounted lights-
G&R Tactical custom light
SF X300
Insight M3X
You can get more expensive lights, and you can get cheaper lights, but these are ready to pop on and use, without selling the kids.
Kurt Reifert
11-04-2007, 03:56 PM
I would replace the bolt with one that is M.P.I. tested
The Stag/CMT bolt IS MPI tested.
No need to replace anything in that bolt carrier group except for maybe the black extractor spring insert.
Shihan
11-04-2007, 06:29 PM
The Stag/CMT bolt IS MPI tested.
No need to replace anything in that bolt carrier group except for maybe the black extractor spring insert.
Besides the black extractor insert a 5 coil spring should be added and Crane Oring installed as well as restaking the gas key.
any thoughts on the Streamlight TRL-1?
Shihan
11-04-2007, 11:08 PM
any thoughts on the Streamlight TRL-1?
I use one. Its snmall puts out enought light, th bulb dosent burn out and you dont need to buy a mount for it. I may spring for a TLR2 sooner or later.
i thought they sounded like a good deal.
ive heard they're pretty tough,80 lumen peak,lightweight,and the price looks really good.
carbinero
11-04-2007, 11:23 PM
Well, now, I apologize for hijacking this thread. I will post more specific questions re: lights in a new thread.
yeah,sorry...i was probably an accomplice there.
Kurt Reifert
11-05-2007, 08:53 AM
Besides the black extractor insert a 5 coil spring should be added and Crane Oring installed as well as restaking the gas key.
Why is the Crane o-ring assumed to be needed?
das028
11-05-2007, 10:28 AM
Ok let me get this straight. I need a MOACKs tool to stake my carrier? IS there a less expensive way? Seems to me I would saqve a bunch of money just sending it out to do.
Failure2Stop
11-05-2007, 10:51 AM
Why is the Crane o-ring assumed to be needed?
Crane O-ring may not be needed. Usually the correct buffer and spring will work. I have seen a few instances where the o-ring was put in and the used experienced failures to eject due to insufficient ejector spring power. In my experience those that used the o-ring successfully usually upgraded their ejector springs as well.
Ok let me get this straight. I need a MOACKs tool to stake my carrier? IS there a less expensive way? Seems to me I would saqve a bunch of money just sending it out to do.
It's one of those things like buying a torque wrench. If you are going to do it more than once it's probably worth it. If not it probably makes more sense to send it out.
YMMV
carbinero
11-05-2007, 11:14 AM
What about DYI? Based on "other" advice I used a flattened chisel to deepen the staking. I easily loosened the bolts before, and they're tight now. Any problem with that?
[If I had a Colt or new gun, I wouldn't have gone that route...]
Shihan
11-05-2007, 02:12 PM
What about DYI? Based on "other" advice I used a flattened chisel to deepen the staking. I easily loosened the bolts before, and they're tight now. Any problem with that?
[If I had a Colt or new gun, I wouldn't have gone that route...]
Nothing wrong with that.
das028
11-05-2007, 02:32 PM
Excuse my ignorance but what does DYI mean?
Excuse my ignorance but what does DYI mean?
Do It Yourself
C4IGrant
11-05-2007, 03:27 PM
Crane O-rings (or any of the other type devices out there) help with extraction. This is generally needed most on AR's with carbine gas systems (especially The SBR types).
You do not need a MOACK's to stake you gas key. You can DIY with a simple punch and vice.
C4
das028
11-05-2007, 03:40 PM
Crane O-rings (or any of the other type devices out there) help with extraction. This is generally needed most on AR's with carbine gas systems (especially The SBR types).
You do not need a MOACK's to stake you gas key. You can DIY with a simple punch and vice.
C4
If I decide to do it myself, should I use the punch in the stake mark that came from the factory, or make I new stake mark.
Sorry if I'm not making any sense, just try to bare with me.
FYI, my rifle is a Stag and has the same staking that is shown in that thread with all the carrier key pics.
Shihan
11-05-2007, 05:04 PM
If I decide to do it myself, should I use the punch in the stake mark that came from the factory, or make I new stake mark.
Sorry if I'm not making any sense, just try to bare with me.
FYI, my rifle is a Stag and has the same staking that is shown in that thread with all the carrier key pics.
Make sure the bolts are tight before restaking, if they are not it may change where the old marks are.
vBulletin® v3.7.2, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.