Maybe my google-fu is just weak, couldn't find any positive answer on this. I am using a BCM Mod 1 Comp, it came with a crush washer. My question is, is a 3/4 circle (270 degree) to 1 circle (360 degree) turn, once hand tightened, enough to secure the flash hider such that it won't untorque itself during gun operation?
sorry, I should add, the reason 270 to 360 is because that's the amount past hand tighten that I can clock the flash hider correctly.
If I understand what you're saying, I'd say yes. Did you use any grease on the threads? I usually make sure to coat the threads and both sides of the washer with a little bit of grease.
I used aeroshell 33ms on the threads of the barrel.Quote:
Originally Posted by taekwondopreacher
Okay I should add a little more detail, I originally had a A2 flash hider. Due to been a noob, I torqued flashhider 2 full circles (which is max for the muzzle brake crush washers) to get it into the right "clock" alignment. It stayed like that for a few days, and I decided to replace it with the BCM mod 1 comp. During that time, I learned that it can affect accuracy if I over torque it, so this time I went with just hand tighten then torque to the right orientation with the BCM logo on top, which brings me to about a 270 - 360 degree turn from hand tighten.
Please tell me I didn't damage my Daniel Defense barrel lol.
Your barrel is fine.
The standard is a minimum of 90 degrees, max of 450 degrees.
Take that crush washer and throw it as far as you can. Get a shim set (not a peel washer) to properly clock your muzzle device.
No two crush washers feel the same when installing muzzle devices and sometimes they don't crush evenly. If it gets crushed too far, it will swell into the threads making it difficult to remove later on. If you over clock the muzzle device, you can't just back it off because it's been crushed too much. If you go around one more time, it's likely to swell into the barrel threads.
Shims take a little more effort to clock, but if over clocked, you can just back off and start again. If you have to remove the muzzle device just use the same shims on installation.
Not to sound like I'm talking out of both sides of my mouth, but I also always use shim sets now. They are easy to use and take all the guess work out of it. Google Accu-washer.
Depends on the crush washer. Some are harder than others. I torque by common sense and feel. You can just feel when something is right after doing a few of these.
Never heard of Aeroshell 33 for this. There's no chance for galvanic corrosion, so I'm not sure why moly grease would apply.
Shim set, I prefer PWS, and some Rockset
I like the shim sets. I used to be a glutten for punishment and use the peel washers. Rockset for silencer mounts.. flash hiders, I just torque.Quote:
Originally Posted by hk_shootr