Starting from Scratch, .308 or 6.5 CM?

I've been wanting to start longer range shooting. I have been shooting .223/5.56 in AR's for a short while, but nothing in larger calibers.

After some research, I've settled on a Tikka T3x CTR.

I am just undecided on the caliber. As of right now, I have zero ammo and/or reloading components for either .308 or 6.5 CM.

I do know .308 is widely available, and has been around for a long time. I did also read about the advantages of the 6.5 CM when it comes to performance. I'm just not completely sure on the logistics side of things.

Is 6.5 CM really that widely available and cost effective as it sounds? I honestly haven't monitored ammo availability and pricing on .308 or 6.5 CM lately, so I don't really have a good idea of which is more economical. I do also buy all of my ammo online, if that makes any difference. I am getting into reloading, so I still have yet to buy components for either .308 or 6.5 CM.

Would there be any reason at all to believe that the 6.5 CM would become a boutique caliber in the near future? Or would it be safe to say that it is catching on at this point?

Another consideration is that eventually I would like to get into a semi auto .308 or 6.5 CM. Most likely an LMT MWS. Barrels in 6.5 are available for it, but it is an extra ~$600. I know that I can sell the .308 barrel to offset costs. I'm not 100% sure on whether I would sell the .308 barrel though. And of course, whether I buy the 6.5 LMT barrel would depend heavily on whether I go into 6.5 to begin with.

To sum it up, is 6.5 all that it's hyped up to be in regards to ballistics/performance, and price/availability?

Or would you say for a beginner it would be better to just start out with the proven .308 round?

Thanks for any advice

Do you reload?

What distances do you have access to shoot?

Short answer is yes the 6.5 is easier to shoot longer ranges. It has many benefits and factory ammo is available.

Barrel life is only about 3-4 thousand rounds though.

The .308 barrel life is a lot longer and good factory ammo is available. The recoil is more and it's not as easy to shoot at longer ranges.

Personally I went with the 6.5 and have no regrets. I have shot it out to 1100 yards and got great hits.

IF I was going with a semi auto I would NOT got with the 6.5 though. Semi auto is too hard on brass IMO.

What's your budget for rifle AND optics?

Look at the Tikka Tac A1. That's tikkas new chassis rifle like the Ruger RPR and Savage stealth.


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Also if you plan on punching paper out to 1k I honestly would get a .223 and shoot ALL day for little money.

Here is my 6.5 built on a defiance action.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b0502d1149.jpg


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Between the two the 6.5 is the way to go with 1k and out. You have a better bc which results in less drop and less effect from wind than the 308. Ammo is much cheaper now and far easier to find now.

Define long range. Are you hunting? Competing? If not and you plan to shoot under 1k, go 308 or 223 and save money on components and barrels.


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I rebarreled my 308 to 65 Creed and am glad I did. Much easier to make hit so past 1,000. I don't worry much about barrel life as I figure I can afford a new barrel if I can afford the ammo it takes to wear one out.

Go with a 6.5CM--and OP since you decided on a Tikka and not a freakin 700, my guess is you are a winner already and will go 6.5. --just start saving for that Accuracy International:cool:

Better ballistics, while short ranges, it's a wash, however, recoil is less.
Ammunition cost are so close it's a moot point (and yes someone will post a PSA sale add with .308:rolleyes:)
The caliber isn't going away, it's actually growing.
Reloading-just as easy to reload and if you don't save your brass and sell it.
If you are going to reload, in my opinion, buy new ammo and shoot it for the brass while you get used to your rifle, etc. --do a cost analysis.
Barrel life, less, but shouldn't be a deal breaker-heck one could argue that the misses at long range with the .308 will add up and be a wash anyhow.

I have both and I'm sure someone will come along with data to argue about it, comparing the new whizbang .30 bullet to a certain 6.5 bullet. But as someone else elsewhere pointed out--guess what?-that new whizbang bullet is made in a 6.5 also.
The .308 is a good round, been there and done it and will continue to do so, but the 6.5 will be better long range, simple science.

ref brass-you will sell 6.5 used brass-you can hardly sell .308 brass, better to give it to a friend verses trying to sell it for pennies and some internet chump wanting a break on it.

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Originally Posted by mark5pt56

Go with a 6.5CM--and OP since you decided on a Tikka and not a freakin 700, my guess is you are a winner already and will go 6.5. --just start saving for that Accuracy International:cool:

Better ballistics, while short ranges, it's a wash, however, recoil is less.
Ammunition cost are so close it's a moot point (and yes someone will post a PSA sale add with .308:rolleyes:)
The caliber isn't going away, it's actually growing.
Reloading-just as easy to reload and if you don't save your brass and sell it.
If you are going to reload, in my opinion, buy new ammo and shoot it for the brass while you get used to your rifle, etc. --do a cost analysis.
Barrel life, less, but shouldn't be a deal breaker-heck one could argue that the misses at long range with the .308 will add up and be a wash anyhow.

I have both and I'm sure someone will come along with data to argue about it, comparing the new whizbang .30 bullet to a certain 6.5 bullet. But as someone else elsewhere pointed out--guess what?-that new whizbang bullet is made in a 6.5 also.
The .308 is a good round, been there and done it and will continue to do so, but the 6.5 will be better long range, simple science.

ref brass-you will sell 6.5 used brass-you can hardly sell .308 brass, better to give it to a friend verses trying to sell it for pennies and some internet chump wanting a break on it.

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Haha, I will know I've succeeded in life the day I buy an AI. One day though.

As for reloading, I have not officially started yet. I've just been stocking up on components slowly. At the moment I have a decent amount of powders, primers, and brass for 9 mm and .223. I will definitely also start stocking up on components for either the .308, 6.5, or both. And yes, I always buy plenty of factory ammo first as a way to get brass for reloading in the future.

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Originally Posted by tylerw02

Define long range. Are you hunting? Competing? If not and you plan to shoot under 1k, go 308 or 223 and save money on components and barrels.


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Just shooting targets for now. I don't have the opportunity to hunt right now. It's definitely something I've wanted to do for a long time, but for now it's not something that this rifle will be used for. As for long range, I was thinking to start at 600 yards. Then go up from there, but I don't imagine I will be doing much too far past 1000 yards. If you recommend I should start at something shorter than 600, please let me know. I'm open to hearing any advice/pointers.

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Originally Posted by Kenneth

Also if you plan on punching paper out to 1k I honestly would get a .223 and shoot ALL day for little money.

Here is my 6.5 built on a defiance action.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b0502d1149.jpg


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I have thought about .223, but part of this is about expanding my horizons into larger calibers. If that makes any sense? Slightly related, I am planning to build an SPR in .223 sometime down the road. I figured with a semi auto, long range shooting is more difficult, and it might be better to start with heavier grain .223 than .308 or 6.5 CM That is a nice rifle in the picture. That is something I had envisioned.

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Originally Posted by Kenneth

Do you reload?

What distances do you have access to shoot?

Short answer is yes the 6.5 is easier to shoot longer ranges. It has many benefits and factory ammo is available.

Barrel life is only about 3-4 thousand rounds though.

The .308 barrel life is a lot longer and good factory ammo is available. The recoil is more and it's not as easy to shoot at longer ranges.

Personally I went with the 6.5 and have no regrets. I have shot it out to 1100 yards and got great hits.

IF I was going with a semi auto I would NOT got with the 6.5 though. Semi auto is too hard on brass IMO.

What's your budget for rifle AND optics?

Look at the Tikka Tac A1. That's tikkas new chassis rifle like the Ruger RPR and Savage stealth.


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I do the vast majority of my shooting in the desert. So distances can easily reach 1000 yards. However, like I said, this will be the first time I shoot at long distance. Up to this point it has been out to about 100 yards with irons, using AK's and AR's.

I do not have a set budget. Honestly, I am of the mindset that I rather just save a little longer and getting something better. In other words, buy once cry once. With that said, for a first bolt gun I want to buy something rather simple. I want quality, but at a reasonable "entry price". To me that would be about $1-1.2k for the base rifle. I don't have a problem dropping $600 to $900 on optics. Again though, this is all completely new to me. So I'm not sure what my preferences will be with different optics. From reading the various threads in the optics subforum, I can see that there is a lot of personal preference that goes into what optics suit the shooter.

In short, I don't have a specific budget. I don't mind spending a little more if it calls for it. I also want decent rifle worthy of keeping. I know sometimes people say to just buy the cheapest option to learn on and see if you even like what you're getting into. Then sell to upgrade later on. Resale sucks right now in the used gun market, so I just want something worthy of hanging onto.

I did look at the Tac A1. From what I did read on them, it seemed the consensus was to just buy the T3 and then later upgrade to a new chassis if desired. I may be getting the model confused though. Doesn't the Tac A1 use proprietary magazines?

If you're in the desert and have access to longer ranges, then no reason not to go 6.5.


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I'm in the same boat as you deciding which caliber before I dive in head first and the bergara hmr 14 in 6.5 creedmoor caught my eye. I have no experience with it but figured it was worth mentioning as it seems to fit your criteria.

Just go 6.5CM now. Sure, there's no benefit closer than 600 yards beyond the lower recoil, but boy I'll tell you...on windy days, I outshoot many .308 shooters with more trigger time because wind matters that much less when we get out 850 yards or more. Obviously, a skilled wind-caller is a skilled wind-caller so I'm not outshooting folks I have no business outshooting, but the point stands that I am fairly green and 6.5 is easy to shoot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mark5pt56

Go with a 6.5CM--and OP since you decided on a Tikka and not a freakin 700, my guess is you are a winner already and will go 6.5. --just start saving for that Accuracy International:cool:

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Ugh, a 6.5CM AX is on my list. A nice custom without anything too extravagant is quite a bit less though...

If it was me I would strongly look at the Bargera rifles. I think they have a few for $1600 or so.

I know that's a lot but it will be leaps and bounds above most of the other factory guns.

If you are prior military or LEO I would get in touch with Vortex and get with their discount program.

Then order a PST Gen II 5x25 and you will be set until you want to step up to $1600+ for an optic.

My first rifle was a savage Varmint action in a XLR Element. Vortex PST 6X24 and a heavy Varmint Criterion barrel. I shot it out to 1k and it shot well. It I was not happy with the savage action. Too much slop and the ejection was terrible.


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Agree with everyone who have said 6.5. I shoot gassers, it's what I know and have been shooting for years. I went 6.5 and haven't looked back. 1) less recoil. While it doesn't inherently make the gun more accurate, it is much easier to shoot, thus eliminating any flinch that may creep in. 2) the 6.5 is ballisticly a better round, easier to make wind calls, more forgiving. 3) cost is a total wash as far as ammo choices. The Hornady 143 ELD-X is an incredibly good round, insane B.C. and available at Sportsman's Wherehouse off the shelf for $32.00 a box. It's easily sub moa, expanding hunting ammo that rivals any match round. 4) if you start to reload, no different than reloading.308.

When you lay everything out, the 6.5 just makes sense.

Ok, I think I'm going to be going with 6.5 CM.

One question I have is, about how often is everyone rebarreling their rifles?

3k rounds is a pretty short life span. Especially with a relatively low recoiling round. I don't see myself blowing through 1k rounds of 6.5 at every shooting session, but I guess what I'm asking is: is rebarreling longer range bolt guns a common thing to do?

Recoil has nothing to do with barrel life.

3k is about right. Depends on the loads you shoot and your shooting schedule as well. I figure about 2k before I prepare to get the ball rolling on a new .260 barrel for my AI.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by w3453l

Ok, I think I'm going to be going with 6.5 CM.
3k rounds is a pretty short life span.

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No necessary directed at you, but just using your quote to make an observation.
3000 rounds/ 20 per box at $32 is $4800.00 of ammo.

My point if you can afford Around $5000 of disposable income for factory ammo for ONE firearm to "shoot out a barrel" you can probably afford a new barrel of your choosing or even a completely new gun by that time

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Travelingchild

No necessary directed at you, but just using your quote to make an observation.
3000 rounds/ 20 per box at $32 is $4800.00 of ammo.

My point if you can afford Around $5000 of disposable income for factory ammo for ONE firearm to "shoot out a barrel" you can probably afford a new barrel of your choosing or even a completely new gun by that time

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For some people it isn't the $700-800 rebarrels cost, but some of the best smith's have six or eight month waits.


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Depending on the action, the smith may not need to see the action at all (AI 14+ rifles, BigHorn TL3, Remage, Savage pre-fits, RPR, etc.) in order to spin up a barrel.

2K-3K rounds is several years if you're not a very serious competitor. You probably won't shoot more than 700rds a year.

Actually the old AIs didn't have to go to a smith either, it's just more work to change them yourself. Some smith's still want to see it for the first time though.


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Figured it was just the quick change ones, thanks for the info!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tylerw02

Recoil has nothing to do with barrel life.

3k is about right. Depends on the loads you shoot and your shooting schedule as well. I figure about 2k before I prepare to get the ball rolling on a new .260 barrel for my AI.


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Sorry for the confusion. What I meant when I mentioned the lower recoil was that with a less recoiling round, I would be more likely to put more rounds through the gun in at one time. Whereas with something that's kicking you in the shoulder will keep you from shooting "too much at once". In which case, I'd be wearing the barrel out faster.

Although, I guess there's two kinds of pain when shooting. Getting your shoulder beat, and then getting your wallet beat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Travelingchild

No necessary directed at you, but just using your quote to make an observation.
3000 rounds/ 20 per box at $32 is $4800.00 of ammo.

My point if you can afford Around $5000 of disposable income for factory ammo for ONE firearm to "shoot out a barrel" you can probably afford a new barrel of your choosing or even a completely new gun by that time

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Yes, this is true, but most of it is just the hassle of having to get the gun rebarreled. I guess I can wait until winter season to have the gun sent out, when I do less shooting. I just dread the hassle of shipping a rifle out. I know it's more of a "first world problem", but still.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w3453l

Sorry for the confusion. What I meant when I mentioned the lower recoil was that with a less recoiling round, I would be more likely to put more rounds through the gun in at one time. Whereas with something that's kicking you in the shoulder will keep you from shooting "too much at once". In which case, I'd be wearing the barrel out faster.

Although, I guess there's two kinds of pain when shooting. Getting your shoulder beat, and then getting your wallet beat.



Yes, this is true, but most of it is just the hassle of having to get the gun rebarreled. I guess I can wait until winter season to have the gun sent out, when I do less shooting. I just dread the hassle of shipping a rifle out. I know it's more of a "first world problem", but still.

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It's a good excuse to have two rifles ;)


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This is my set up,
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...-to-long-range

Was buying ammo before I made the decision to purchase the rifle, then the scope, then the scope base.
I actually purchased the rifle last

Trying to decide if reloading is worth it for me.

Precision rifle isn't about shooting loads of ammo.

I shoot about 20-50 rounds a week through mine and I feel like that's a lot.

Honestly shooting precision rifle gets boring pretty fast unless you have extended ranges to shoot at. I'm limited to 350 yards at my local range and that's usually all I shoot at. A few at 100 for tiny groups and the rest banging steel. I can only shoot steel so many times in a row before it gets old.

I load my own ammo so it's usually a constant version of testing. I shoot a few rounds then stop and tinker with something else. Then back in the bolt gun for a few more rounds. It's not uncommon for me to spend 5+ hours at the range and only shoot 50 rounds through my bolt gun.

To me long range precision is accurate SLOW fire. You will spend more time cleaning and learning about the gun then you will shooting it.

My advice if you want to shoot a lot is to take a long range precision class and get it out of your system.

Once you become a reloader you can shoot the round and reload it over and over. I have 150 pieces of Hornady brass that I am using until I open the 500 pieces of lapua I have. I'm on the 4 th firing of the Hornady.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kenneth

Precision rifle isn't about shooting loads of ammo.

I shoot about 20-50 rounds a week through mine and I feel like that's a lot.

Honestly shooting precision rifle gets boring pretty fast unless you have extended ranges to shoot at. I'm limited to 350 yards at my local range and that's usually all I shoot at. A few at 100 for tiny groups and the rest banging steel. I can only shoot steel so many times in a row before it gets old.

I load my own ammo so it's usually a constant version of testing. I shoot a few rounds then stop and tinker with something else. Then back in the bolt gun for a few more rounds. It's not uncommon for me to spend 5+ hours at the range and only shoot 50 rounds through my bolt gun.

To me long range precision is accurate SLOW fire. You will spend more time cleaning and learning about the gun then you will shooting it.

My advice if you want to shoot a lot is to take a long range precision class and get it out of your system.

Once you become a reloader you can shoot the round and reload it over and over. I have 150 pieces of Hornady brass that I am using until I open the 500 pieces of lapua I have. I'm on the 4 th firing of the Hornady.


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Your kind of precision shooting is definitely one kind of precision shooting...

But ask the guys and gals that shoot PRS or other LR competitions -- they'll talk to you about positional shooting, breath control after running, timers, target transitions, movers, barriers, low contrast targets, and a bunch of other "field" condition variables that require precision AND a host of other rifle handling/shooting skills.

At the very least, you could do dot drills, which IMHO are more challenging than shooting plain ol' groups.

One more vote for 6.5 -- I find mine to be a real pleasure to shoot and most seem to be accurate with factory ammo. Save your factory brass and when you decide to start reloading, you can drive down your ammo costs and dial in some loads for your specific rifle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by caporider

Your kind of precision shooting is definitely one kind of precision shooting...

But ask the guys and gals that shoot PRS or other LR competitions -- they'll talk to you about positional shooting, breath control after running, timers, target transitions, movers, barriers, low contrast targets, and a bunch of other "field" condition variables that require precision AND a host of other rifle handling/shooting skills.

At the very least, you could do dot drills, which IMHO are more challenging than shooting plain ol' groups.

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I should have maybe worded that a little bit different.

That's just what I find I do with my gun now. IF I had PSR around me I would definitely be trying to get into it. I swear everyone says Texas is full of shooting comps but NOT anywhere close to me. It's aggravating.

I do run around in the range every once in a while and shoot from the kneeling off a rear and other awkward positions just to mess around. It at 350 yards it's not that hard to make hits lol. I probably just look like a goober but it's fun to me.

The rifle class I took was 400 rounds in 3 days so I got a lot of shooting out of the way quickly and that taught me a lot of things about shooting at long range.

Once you get into a good shooting rifle and start making clover leafs groups or smaller you will always try and only get better. Shooting just for groups isn't all that fun. I like to do so just to see what I am capable of but banging steel is far more fun and you don't have to have the most accurate ammo. You can get away with sloppy reloads for shooting steel haha.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by tylerw02

It's a good excuse to have two rifles ;)


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Haha, I can't argue that.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Travelingchild

This is my set up,
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...-to-long-range

Was buying ammo before I made the decision to purchase the rifle, then the scope, then the scope base.
I actually purchased the rifle last

Trying to decide if reloading is worth it for me.

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Thanks, I remember reading your thread before starting this one. Did you buy the 20" or 24" barrel version? And how do you like the 3-18x magnification?

I've been doing more reading on optics, and I have definitely increased my budget for the optic.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kenneth

Precision rifle isn't about shooting loads of ammo.

I shoot about 20-50 rounds a week through mine and I feel like that's a lot.

Honestly shooting precision rifle gets boring pretty fast unless you have extended ranges to shoot at. I'm limited to 350 yards at my local range and that's usually all I shoot at. A few at 100 for tiny groups and the rest banging steel. I can only shoot steel so many times in a row before it gets old.

I load my own ammo so it's usually a constant version of testing. I shoot a few rounds then stop and tinker with something else. Then back in the bolt gun for a few more rounds. It's not uncommon for me to spend 5+ hours at the range and only shoot 50 rounds through my bolt gun.

To me long range precision is accurate SLOW fire. You will spend more time cleaning and learning about the gun then you will shooting it.

My advice if you want to shoot a lot is to take a long range precision class and get it out of your system.

Once you become a reloader you can shoot the round and reload it over and over. I have 150 pieces of Hornady brass that I am using until I open the 500 pieces of lapua I have. I'm on the 4 th firing of the Hornady.


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I agree completely on the lower round count with precision shooting vs shooting the AR's (non-precision), and handguns. That's part of why I want to get into shooting longer distance. I read a lot about it, and I like the idea of fine tuning your own loads, reading wind, &c. It's definitely a whole new skill set that I want to learn.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by caporider

Your kind of precision shooting is definitely one kind of precision shooting...

But ask the guys and gals that shoot PRS or other LR competitions -- they'll talk to you about positional shooting, breath control after running, timers, target transitions, movers, barriers, low contrast targets, and a bunch of other "field" condition variables that require precision AND a host of other rifle handling/shooting skills.

At the very least, you could do dot drills, which IMHO are more challenging than shooting plain ol' groups.

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I am looking into taking some precision rifle classes, and actually found one somewhat close to me. It's not outrageously priced, and from research, it looks like it is quality.

Thanks everyone for your input, I appreciate it very much!

I know this is not the optic subforum, but I'll ask anyway, what would be a decent magnification range for optics on a 6.5 or 308 bolt gun? Let's say that shooting would be to 1000 yds max.

I read some articles on optic selection, and they suggested X-10x would be enough. Reading around here though, I see people going with optics ranging from 18x to 25x.

I'm going to look through some locally, but wanted to see if I can get a specific range to look at.

Thanks again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w3453l

Thanks, I remember reading your thread before starting this one. Did you buy the 20" or 24" barrel version? And how do you like the 3-18x magnification?
...
I've been doing more reading on optics, and I have definitely increased my budget for the optic.
...
Thanks again.

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20 inch barrel Mainly because I'll be hanging a 7.62 Rugged Razor suppressor off the end.
For the Distances I am starting at , can ring steel out to 600 at our range & my limited capability its fine.
How ever some did hang a 12 x 12 plate at around 1200yards, I think it lasered at 1128 yards using a vertronix terrapin. forgot the incline angle, Buddy of mine can ring it consistently using his custom Masterpiece Arms 6.5. ( But he competes and PRS is his passion)

For those distances the 3x18-50 Vortex Razor is fine. Regardless of Manufacture If your budget allows I'd go higher Should you really stretch it out.

You will never wish for less magnification, only more. Though, at the high end mirage starts becoming a problem. I've been happy with my 4.5-27x Razor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by w3453l

I read some articles on optic selection, and they suggested X-10x would be enough. Reading around here though, I see people going with optics ranging from 18x to 25x.

I'm going to look through some locally, but wanted to see if I can get a specific range to look at.

Thanks again.

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I wouldn't consider anything less than 15x, but really I'd look at something in the 18-25x max mag range. The new Vortex PST II
line is probably close to a 'best' value option.

I really like the 5x25 optics but I have a 4.5x27.

The rifle class I went to wouldn't let us dial our scopes past 12x and we were banging steel at 1000.

With that being said I use way more magnification then that at 100 yards lol.

I would look hard at the GEN II PST 5x25.


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I've been dying to get a look through the PST II. I'd like something in the 3-15x mag range with FFP reticle, but I'm quite happy with my NXS glass and the PST Gen I glass was kinda meh.

If you have more room in the budget I'd say a used Razor Gen II is probably the best value in that you'll be happier for longer. I'll probably let mine walk soon when I'm done comparing it to the 6-24x Razor AMG.

If I were going to buy or have a bolt rifle built today, I would probably go with the 6.5 CR then the .308. It would be nice to get one with an easy or quick change type of barrel system like the Q Fix or the Barrett MRAD, where I could change the barrel myself. The following information is from a 2017 Remington magazine article I was reading at the bookstore yesterday about our armed services deciding to stick with the 7.62x51mm instead of the newer 6mm calibers. The head NC officer in charge of the special forces sniper school had done a survey of 108 school trained snipers who had seen service in Afghanistan and Iraq. The snipers were asked about engagement distances where they were employed as snipers. The average engagment distance for the 108 men across both theaters was 396 meters or 433 yards. Its likely the marines were seeing something very similar. He stated that while the newer 6 CM calibers would bring a slight external ballistic improvement to a sniper rifle, the effects would be almost neligible at those ranges. Even inside 700 yards, the differences between the 7.62x51mm and the other cartridges are not enough to warrant the headaches the smaller bores would bring in the form of a greater logistical burden and vastly decreased barrel life, etc., etc. He stated you would need a third as many rifles as there are snipers, just to keep the snipers operational. Thus the Marine Corp held on to the 7.62x51mm.

This thread, and threads on a few other sites, piqued my interest in the 6.5CM. Reports on the round are good. It shoots a bit flatter than .308 Winchester and the Hornady factory ammunition gets good reviews.

I bought a Ruger Precision Rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor today. I'll pick it up later in the week and mount my Nightforce scope on it. The Ruger has decent reviews and it should be good paper puncher.

^^^ good choice. I took my custom build out yesterday and made first round hits at 801 and 1041.

The factory 140's shoot pretty good out of my gun but of course my reloads are better.

The Ruger's shoot great if you get a good barrel. There has been some reports of their 6.5's not being very accurate.


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When I inspected the new rifle, the muzzle brake was not clocked exactly where I liked it so I re-indexed it. I used foaming bore cleaner to remove fouling from the barrel before firing the first shots. Quite a few patches were blue before a clean one exited the muzzle.

After cleaning, I took the RPR out to the range to zero. Conditions were good and I fired directly into a steady 6 mph wind. I fired 120g Hornady A Max and 140g ELD Match. I was surprised that the POI was the same for both cartridges at 200 yards. The 140g ELD Match hit roughly 2" higher on steel at 300 yards. The rifle has exactly 45 rounds fired through it at this point, so I don't feel the barrel is broken in yet. I shot a 7/8" group with Hornady 140g ELD Match at 200 yards. 120g A Max grouped right at 2" at 200 yards. Both cartridges have acceptable accuracy for mass produced factory ammunition.

This is my first experience with the 6.5 Creedmoor cartridge. The Ruger Precision Rifle is definitely a keeper.

The RPR in 6CM is what I'm eyeing now. That seems to be the way that PRS/Game guns are going- heavier guns and smaller rounds. The scopes are really interesting. The two that I'm most interested in are the PST II 5-25 and the Altholon ARES BTR. About a grand for each. I really can't decipher from the specs which one is better. I think the PST is still hard to find.

I cleaned up my gun closet and found way more 7.62/308 175 and 168 ammo than I thought I had for my ACC-SD in an AI chassis. I'll shoot that out and look at 6.5 or 6CM.

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Originally Posted by FromMyColdDeadHand

The RPR in 6CM is what I'm eyeing now. That seems to be the way that PRS/Game guns are going- heavier guns and smaller rounds. The scopes are really interesting. The two that I'm most interested in are the PST II 5-25 and the Altholon ARES BTR. About a grand for each. I really can't decipher from the specs which one is better. I think the PST is still hard to find.

I cleaned up my gun closet and found way more 7.62/308 175 and 168 ammo than I thought I had for my ACC-SD in an AI chassis. I'll shoot that out and look at 6.5 or 6CM.

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Six and a half is a great round. I found the PST eye box pretty tight so I sold mine. The Gen 2 Razor HD is a great value. Best of luck.

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Originally Posted by tylerw02

Define long range. Are you hunting? Competing? If not and you plan to shoot under 1k, go 308 or 223 and save money on components and barrels.


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6.5 is the flavor of the year and it's good......but 223 and 308 are infinitely awesome. I have a .223 and 308 bolt gun and AR type guns. Just another champion of the military rounds.

PB