Printable View
I've been looking for a decent flashlight to mount on my AR for home defense but I'm not trying to buy a 500 dollar surefire, this orion h40-w I found is rated at 500 lumens, 75 minute run time on the battery and it's relatively waterproof. At only 60 dollars I can't seem to find anything bad about it; what do you guys think?
Couldn't find anything bad about it, you say? I googled the light and within seconds I was reading terrible "just as good as" reviews on Amazon, but $60 thrown away is still cheaper than a Surefire so it's ok. How could you not find anything bad about it??
An Arisaka M300 is approximately $100 more than that light. It won't start flickering after a few uses, weighs less, and is more durable.
Have you ever shined a 500 lumen light at an interior wall at night? But if you're dead set on 500 lumens the Surefire M600U is like $230?
Inforce 200 lumen (integrated mount) runs $120. Surefire G2X Tactical and mount can be done for $150. Why piss away 60 bucks on chicom junk? I agree with Euro. 500 lumens inside is gonna hurt. Maybe hurt long enough to get you killed.
Alright I'll throw an option I've used before. In fact this particular light I've used practically burned up inside and once I cleaned the burnt parts, carbon etc, the light still works. The brand is PowerTac. You can find them at PowerTacUSA.com.
You can get a lottalumens light for right at $100 bucks. Have your own mount maybe like $90.
Here's why I recommend this light. 1.They only use CREE bulbs. Made in 'Merica. However, the rest of the light is made across the pond by child labor. However this company owns the factory in the little people country and that generally means and in this case specifically means that they source their own materials. Meaning they don't give a spec sheet to a 3rd party contractor and that 3rd party contractor goes out and finds the cheapest crap that barely meets spec and uses it. Typically this means that the sourced parts are going to be higher quality. I believe this is the case due to the incident I refer to as "The Flashlight Meltdown of 2015"
Here's what allegedly happened by some guy I know. Said guy owns a PowerTac Warrior. 980 lumens BAF (Bright As Fudge) w/ WML kit. Has aforementioned light on first build of his life. DD 16", VTAC rail, CMC trigger, EOTech optic LMT BCG etc etc. solid parts. At some point suspect purchases RCR-123's AND CR-123's. Note that the "RCR" is a rechargeable battery.
Suspect proceeds to insert said batteries in to charging device, "setting and forgetting" for approximately 24 hours said batteries charged.
Suspect removes said batteries and places them inside Warrior flashlight. Proceeds to turn flashlight on and notes exceptionally bright light but since light is already BAF, doesn't pay too much attention. Notes light is beginning to get hot. Suspect is quoted as saying "Damn this flashlight is getting hot." Suspect states that a smoke-like substance began to emanate from the flashlight in question, around the lens. Suspect noted inside of lens getting very "dark" suspect turns light off and ponders situation. Suspect notes flashlight must cool down before he can open it. States that gloves were used to open light. Attempts to remove battery and battery sleeve (which are used on the CR123 batteries. The normal 18650 battery has a slightly larger girth and does not require the plastic sleeve). Notes that batteries will not come out. Notes a nasty make your lungs burn plasticky and other unknown chemical smell emanating from flashlight. The rest of the flashlight is disassembled. Notes a black powdery film much like carbon fouling or smoke residue on internal components. Inside of glass lens is fouled with carbon.
Suspect cannot remove batteries so places flashlight tube in vise and proceeds to use 3/8" socket extension and hammer (safety equipment was utilized) and hammers out batteries and battery sleeve. Both burnt almost beyond recognition. Dental records confirm deceased was in fact two CR-123 batteries NOT RCR-123 batteries. Suspect noted a small portion of battery outer plastic sleeve was not the correct color. Rest of sleeve was marred badly by the heat.
Suspect reassembled light with known good CR-123 batteries and turns flashlight on. Light comes on, but operation is intermittent. Suspect recalls significant carbon fouling inside flashlight. Disassembles flashlight and utilizing denatured rectified spirits (denatured alcohol) and weapons cleaning cotton swab to clean internal components including CREE bulb, other internal components and lens. Assembles flashlight and immediately flashlight is placed into operation. Tape switch is utilized; flashlight is 100% FMC.
Flashlight still works every time the button is pressed to this day.
Suspect neither confirms nor denies drinking 16" Schlitz Malt Dumbass Liquor before battery charge and insertion occurred. Probably worth noting, flashlight end cap and head both utilize spring contacts to aid in recoil absorption, light has yet to experience failure.
Here are some pics of "Flashlight Meltdown of 2015" Entered and logged evidence:
So here is probably the only "cheaper" option if recommend. Their customer service is spot on and located in North Carolina, which is where their company is located. They say the flashlights are "deigned in the US" but after calling them and asking they confirmed they manufacture the housing and all in little people land (China) but as I said use CREE bulbs. I still have two of their lights on AR's. Since then I've started using StreamLight TRL-1HL because I like the toggle switch, and my last build used a Surefire M300. But I do trust these lights. Any light that can go through what I errr the suspect put it though and still function every single time the tape switch is pressed is GTG with me. That said when Streamlight is having a sale you can get their 600lm for just over $100 bucks.
It is reported or advertised at 980lm which in my opinion is WAY TOO MUCH light for HD. They have lower lumen lights. I'm not saying these guys are the best and there is the whole China thing. But when I was on a very tight budget for my very first build, this light was a very good value. Suspect was quoted as saying, "This is a damn good light for the money."
Crap. This is a book. Sorry.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4a565a27c7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9602a9c70c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3f7f640eb9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5827ff048a.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use streamlight strions. Hi, med, low plus strobe settings are rechargable. They run for a very long time, especially on the low settings. They come in 250 or 500 lumens (500 is blinding indoors). Fits perfectly in a standard light mount. If you want an extra lithium battery they can be bought offline for around 40 dollars. I'm an auto mechanic and I have one for my primary work light also. It has been dropped in about any liquid you can think. Has hit the concrete floor probably 500 times by now (been using it for about 4yrs now), run over with vehicles multiple times. Still works perfectly. I am on my second battery. First one lasted about 3yrs. They run about 150 with charger and wall and cigarette lighter plugs.
For home defense, I’d spend a little more and get more recognized brand. Surefire, Streamlight or Inforce.
Also, there’s a specific sub forum here for light questions.
A "cheap" but reliable option that I would recommend is Klarus XT line or EagleTac lights. The Klarus has a great user interface (one of the best IMHO) and both lights can take a beating. I know several people, myself included who has owned them and have zero complaints.
In fact, a highly respected flashlight modder uses Eagletac a lot. He warranties his work with a lifetime warranty and will even upgrade his lights for just the cost of parts and shipping when new tech becomes available if you feel the need to. He knows what lights last and what their build quality is because he takes them apart and modifies them. He would not use garbage as his base.
A $100 streamlight tlr1 is hard to beat.
That said, I have a g2 nitrolon ($20), and a cree replacement bulb ($40), and a gear sector mount ($20?) On my ar. If I was to do it all over, I'd go straight tlr1s on everything because it's the easy button.
Maybe an hl or surefire with more throw on an outside gun, but at that point NV is more attractive.
I gave up on cheap shit. Everytime I buy an "awsome" light for cheap, it doesn't work out the box. I take it back and buy something good(streamlight)
Edit, the mag light pro mini puts out 200+ on 2AA. It's an led and $20. I'd run it fore a while first, but it should hold up. Just needs a mount. Activation sucks though. Maybe you can rig up a tail switch?
It sure would have been nice had someone recommend this be posted in the correct area.
You want a light for home defense and at the same time you want to potentially buy a piece of garbage? Does that not seem a little odd to you? There are so many light options that don't even come close to your ridiculous 500.00 Surefire claim, I have to wonder if you actually did any research.
Streamlight TL series or ProTac would be good for someone who doesn't want Surefire prices.
You can also get a Fury and then the appropriate ring mount for your light. https://www.amazon.com/Surefire-P2X-.../dp/B00P6M4B5W
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sipank96