Removing epoxied pillars and DBM systems?

So I've got a MCS-T2. I had Manners install the pillars for me using the factory bottom metal, I think they use marine-tex for the job.

Well, I'm thinking about installing a DBM system from CDI, which means new inletting and such. What is the best way to go about removing the pillars that are already installed?

The gun is currently a heavy barreled 20" .308. Long term I'm looking at switching calibers to 6.5 Creedmoor with a medium-heavy palma contour, but that will be quite a ways away.

Would the 6.5 CM work well in the AW magazines, or would it be better to stick to the internal mag the gun currently uses?

Purpose of the gun is primarily target shooting, light hunting duty, and potential future use in some of those sniper-adventure competitions.

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Originally Posted by BrigandTwoFour

So I've got a MCS-T2. I had Manners install the pillars for me using the factory bottom metal, I think they use marine-tex for the job.

Well, I'm thinking about installing a DBM system from CDI, which means new inletting and such. What is the best way to go about removing the pillars that are already installed?

The gun is currently a heavy barreled 20" .308. Long term I'm looking at switching calibers to 6.5 Creedmoor with a medium-heavy palma contour, but that will be quite a ways away.

Would the 6.5 CM work well in the AW magazines, or would it be better to stick to the internal mag the gun currently uses?

Purpose of the gun is primarily target shooting, light hunting duty, and potential future use in some of those sniper-adventure competitions.

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There's a few ways to accomplish your goal. Depends on what your tools / assets are. Dunno what ya got.

Sometimes they can be punched out if not epoxy / devcon / marine-tex bedded to much. Sometimes a reamer or easy out will work. Mill w/ cutter etc. Either way make sure your stock is secured/clamped well. Make sure to use delrin or suitable media between clamp/vise jaws so it does not damage stock. DBM's usually come w/ new pillars. Either way get the calipers out & check height specs etc.

It's pretty common to just mill out the necessary material in old pillars to correct height for new DBM spec install.

I've seen them fall right out & I've had to pull them like molar teeth as well.

Leave the pillars in there!
The CDI bottom metal will likely need the pillars shortened, but you can just do that while you are milling the stock for the CDI bottom metal.
End mills really don't much care if you are going through aluminum, epoxy or foam.
They cut it all...

Have you called CDI? I believe for about $60 they will do the inlet for you. They will also be able to tell you whether the pillars are a problem.

I sent them an email a while back before I even had the stock. I was debating between going with a Manners stock or a chassis system like the XLR.

They said the pillars would have to come out, but the person emailing wasn't the one who did the work. From reading here, perhaps they could just mill down the pillars in place and not be an issue.

The other option, of course, is not worrying about a DBM system at all. The current hinged floor plate set up works fine, and is lighter to boot.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BrigandTwoFour

So I've got a MCS-T2. I had Manners install the pillars for me using the factory bottom metal, I think they use marine-tex for the job.

Well, I'm thinking about installing a DBM system from CDI, which means new inletting and such. What is the best way to go about removing the pillars that are already installed?

The gun is currently a heavy barreled 20" .308. Long term I'm looking at switching calibers to 6.5 Creedmoor with a medium-heavy palma contour, but that will be quite a ways away.

Would the 6.5 CM work well in the AW magazines, or would it be better to stick to the internal mag the gun currently uses?

Purpose of the gun is primarily target shooting, light hunting duty, and potential future use in some of those sniper-adventure competitions.

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When using the CDI DBM I think Jeff at CDI will inlet your stock for his DBM for around $50-$75. May be the ticket.

For the DIY'ers

If the pillars are the standard pillars that come with their stocks I'd leave them in place and just mill the bottom out as needed. Regardless of whose DBM you use make sure the dry fit is 100% solid for function.

Go slow and don’t cut too much at one whack. As a rule, I measure the front and rear tabs on the DBM and mill/cut .020" shallower than that. Use the existing guard screw holes and long screws to hold the DBM in place and trace around it with a pencil. The DBM will act as a template. Go slow and follow the lines.

Once the dry fit is 100% solid and proper function is GTG I'd bed the Receiver and DBM for 100% contact.

If you have any questions look me up, it's not that hard to do. Good luck.

I'd listen to wnroscoe. He knows what he's talking about. His work at Louisiana Precision speaks for itself.