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I am about to refinish my 1911 (SA TRP). It has Armory Kote now that shows some wear from previous owner. I'd like to get it done in cerakote. Now, how does cerakote wear? Does it flake or chip off? or does it wear as normal blued guns do?
Thanks for your help in advance.
45
I'm also interested in the response as I have a SA Operator (black over OD) that has carry-wear from duty-carry @ work.
I'd like the same two-tone finish, but I had considered the "HK-black" finish for the slide and then OD for the receiver.
I just had a buddy re-vamp a receiver for me on a Gen 1 Glock 17 that I bought in '85 and it turned out really nice. Duracoat OD on the receiver, but I have yet to shoot the slide in black.
I have heard that Ceracoat MAY wear better than Duracoat, but I can't say either way at this point. Lots of choices out there.
Best regards,
cmoore...
I've got the slide of my XD cerakote'd sniper grey. I use the gun for monthly practice, ISPC matches and Steel Challenge matches. After about 3 months of doing these activities with a kydex holster I started to get wear marks in the usual couple places one would from repeated drawing/holstering.
It doesn't flake/chip....wears like normal blueing does.
I had Springer Precision do it and will likely send it in once a year to get recoated (costs about $50) and switch up the colors each time....I'm thinking Blue Titanium next time.
I also could go the Ionbond DLC route which is more wear resistant (my BCG has this coating) but you can only get it in matte black. My XD is mostly my competition gun so I like a bit of color to it so I'll likely just go with cerakoting again.
If you want the most durable finish get your parts sprayed with Cerakote Heat (the heat cured version, no the air cure). I have parts done with each type and the Heat is much, much tougher. I get all my weapons done in the Heat now. All finishes will wear, but the heat shows much less wear on my hard use guns. I have several duty rifles that get handled everyday (in and out of the rack, carried around, banged off of door jams) and they still look like new.
W DLC is the most durable top coat one can put on a pistol at this time. And I've seen data that says properly done ferritic nitrocarburization (Melonite/Tuftride/Tenifer) is better at wear resistance than W DLC...Quote:
Originally Posted by msstate56
My advice: have the slide Melonited and then have the frame and slide W DLC coated. Be aware that the 'smith will need to polish the frame (at the feedramp) once the coating is applied or you'll have feeding issues.
You can't get melonite or tenifer done in a wide selection of colors. Melonite is also a toxic process and not many shops handle it. Lots of places can do duracote or cerakote.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjolnir
Cerakote is only a surface coating and will wear, and chip... My Nighthawk 10-8 (Permakote - Cerakote) is showing typical wear at the muzzle, rear of slide and has chipped at the rollover notch (5000 - 6000 rounds) and daily duty carry...
I recently had my Springfield Pro done in Melonite and after 2 classes 1500-2000 rounds other than the frame and slide rails there's not a mark on it... I've also read that Ion Bond DLC wears similar to Melonite...
I don't think that over time the Cerakote won't wear any better than the Armory Kote...
I highly recommend Melonite for durability...
Just my 2 cents
I had a LB PII "Baer Coated" which I think is roughly similar to Cerakote. It has sort of work and chipped on some of the corners and around the ejection port. If I had it to do again I'd get a Tungsten DLC or whatever they're calling it these days. I had that finish on a Kahr and it was really durable. I might also like to try NP3 Plus some day.