Well. Off to a good start. Hope to see some more updates!Quote:
Originally Posted by BufordTJustice
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Well. Off to a good start. Hope to see some more updates!Quote:
Originally Posted by BufordTJustice
Nice work!
Quote:
Originally Posted by BufordTJustice
Thank you. I'll really be able to report back when the 50" yard steel gets set back up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint
Ultra soft shooter. Rivals several comp'd guns.
Yeah, it's a decent start. Also, from about 30 rounds suppressed, this barrel deals extremely well with the addition of a can. I get a very small, due south shift of about 1" at 100 yards using XM193 and AE223. And it's repeatable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kdubya
As far as general accuracy, I think that limiting the torque on both the muzzle device and the barrel nut is key. I torqued my barrel nut to approx 45 ft/lbs and my muzzle device aligns via the PA precision shims to roughly 20 foot pounds. I used Rocksett (of course) on the muzzle device threads after prepping both thread surfaces.....so any more than 20 ft/lbs is completely unnecessary.
Also, don't be a gorilla with the gas block screws. Using knurled cup-tip McMaster-Carr 10/32nd screws, I simply torque until I feel the knurling fold-over. I used red Loctite 271 on one screw and leftover Rocksett on the other for my SLR Ti Sentry 6 gas block. With those screws, thread locker is likely completely superfluous, but I'm an overkill kinda guy.....and it's my new duty upper.
I also used Loctite 620 Green Sleeve Retainer on the gas block journal, inside the bore of the gas block, and around the gas tube entry into the gas block. I then let it all cure for 24 hours. I have ZERO gas leakage around the gas block except for some slight bleeding around the gas adjustment screw....which also appears to be tapering-off. I've done several rifles this way and I've found it to be a bomb-proof method....just make sure you're using all the components you want to use, because it's damn near permanent. Also, the 620 Green Loctite is a corrosion/galling/pitting preventer.
Did some work at 200, 300, and 500 yards. Both with and without my Specwar 556 suppressor.
No pics this time, but I was 100% on a std IPSC profile steel swinger at 500 yards using federal brown box XM193. Both with and without can.
No malfs. Almost 100 degrees that day. Brutal heat. Just smooth shooting goodness.
Out to 300, POA/POI difference with can on and off want enough to push me off target. 500 required a one up, two over adjustment on my T1 for the can, but hits were 100% once the can was accounted for. Without the adjustment on the sight, I found I could hold over and still get 100% hits. Making the sight adjustment was simpler, permitting me to dot the "i" plus a little space with zero windage hold.
I simply can't ask for better real world accuracy than that.
As with my Sionics RGP 11.5", there is ZERO gas to face when running suppressed with my Specwar 556 (a can known to be on the gassy side). My buddies couldn't believe how tame it was suppressed.
I attribute this to the modestly sized gas port, extended gas system length, SLR Sentry gas block, LMT enhanced carrier, and Vltor A5 system.
Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
For those who've never seen a chamber reamer before, this one is used for our custom chambered BRT OPTIMUM SPR Barrels.
https://dqzrr9k4bjpzk.cloudfront.net.../543571972.jpg
Would you mind sending me an email Clint?
Looking good!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint
Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk
That'd make for an awesome suppressed SPR build.