Does anyone have any info about this kit? I've called, left message, emailed them and I can't get anything. I'd like to try one. I may have to save my pennies and just get a LWRC.
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Does anyone have any info about this kit? I've called, left message, emailed them and I can't get anything. I'd like to try one. I may have to save my pennies and just get a LWRC.
I have had one for about a year or so, what would you like to know?
Not my thread but I'll chime in.
Is it reliable? Is it sturdy? What are your likes/dislikes with the system? Would you buy it again?
100% reliable through thousands of rounds. sturdy and solid after 1 year, no parts breakage. I run it on a Bushmaster 14.5 Full-Auto Gun. Gun gets hard use, 1000+ rounds in a few hours if I am on a roll. Lots of mag dumps, almost no semi-auto use at all. I lend it to others at shoots, they shoot who knows what through it. Lots of C-Mag Dumps, Silencers, etc.
Likes:
Easy install/uninstall. Other kits require MFG to install, or are not portable. If this did not work, I could easy return to regular gas system.
Does what I want it to do - not dump gas crud into upper receiver. No melted gas tubes from C-Mag dumps, Silencer use, no broken bolts, stake problems, gas rings or other problems.
After 1000 rounds, it is still clean.
There is really nothing I dislike about it, though at $400, it would be nice if it was a little less costly.
Would I get it again? Sure, but I really do not see a need for it unless it is going on a F/A gun. I do not run it on my LMT/MRP for example (SPR config), nor do I plan to buy one for any of my Semi-Auto guns. I would certainly buy it again though for F/A use.
I'd probably wait it out for the Primary Weapons conversion kit. So far they appear to really have their head in the game, and being able to work under many rails is a big plus. I haven't seen many complaints about the ARES system though.
Then again, with things such as the Masada, SCAR, and the 416 coming along in 2008 possibly, it's going to be a rough call for those wanting something new and "improved".
If HK does bring the 416 to the civilian market, then there is no doubt that is what I will get, but should I count on it becoming available?
I am interested in the Ares because it is a short stroke piston and seems to be an easy upgrade, but if they won't take my money then it might as well not exist.
Have a link? Do you know what the LEO price is? The brochure says they offer a significant discount to LE and active military.
Good point.
Denny's Guns.
https://0186cdf.netsolstores.com/ind...ROD&ProdID=259
PK Firearms.
http://pkfirearms.com/store/get_item...type=0&term=94
This is where I got mine from. I think "significant discount" is a volume purchase not an individual purchase. If you find out, please post here...
https://0186cdf.netsolstores.com/ind...anfID=3&Page=1
You guys are awesome. Ok, PK Firearms has 2 diff models. One for 14.5-16" barrels and one for under 14.5". GTS only has one model, but doesn't say which it is for.
Also, is the included handguard the only one that can be used?
It's on its way. I'll let you know how it works out. I also ordered a couple bandolier kits.
It's likely just an ad for both. You'll probably have to specify which kit you want when you order.
As for rails, I guess it depends on how willing you are with a dremel. As Renegade said, Denny got the Surefire's to work, and they use a lower out of spec top rail. I'd imagine the Midwest free floats, Troy, and Daniel Defense Omega rails would be likely suspects as well. With the Ares kit you have to have two piece hand guards.
Your best bet is to talk to one of the sellers of the kit though, as all I have is a theory where as they likely know what does and doesn't work and what modifications it requires.
Renegade, why wouldn't you want it for your semi auto guns if it works so well in full auto? Is it just a cost versus benefit kind of thing?
I'm wondering how the Vltor CASV-EL rail would work out with the Ares. The bottom is easily removable, the top looks like more work. It might not be practical.
The Vltor CASV-EL rail could be modified to fit with the Ares unit. I modified a few CASV-EL rails for POF uppers, and they work well. Looking at both, the POF is a bulkier unit.
The problem is that the POF is disassembles from the front, so the CASV-EL rail never needs removed. The Ares would require the top rail to be removed for cleaning, and that's not really practical unless you want to completely disassemble the upper every time you clean.
I've never measured one, but the Daniel Defense Omega may work with the Ares (with or without modification). It free-floats, and would disassemble a whole lot easier than the Vltor.
I wonder how often the piston assembly needs to be cleaned.
The problems I was looking to solve (massive crud in upper, lots of heat, melted gas tubes from C-Mag dumps, Silencer use, no broken bolts, stake problems, gas rings or other problems.) I do not have in my semi-auto guns. For instance, my LMT/MRP is in an SPR config, and it is lucky if it sees 20-30 rounds on a typical shooting day. Not enough to cause those problems.
That's pretty impressive. Do you lube the piston at all? Is the heat dissapated enough so as not to cause any problems with the spring? Heat and springs don't generally mix too well.Quote:
I have not cleaned mine yet. I did take it apart to have a look after a few thousand rounds, but it was still pretty clean.
MASP7, The instructions on the VLTOR site look pretty straightforward. Snap it under the delta ring and tighten down the rail. Then snap in the lower section. Is it more involved than that?Quote:
Don't know, but I'm sure it's more often than what you would want to remove the Vltor CASV-EL rail!
I'm going to try a midwest industries rail when I get mine and see if I can get it to work.
For those who have the Ares kit, is it fully reversible to original DI configuration if desired?
Thanks
It's not a big deal for an assembly/disassembly, but there's more there than what I'd want to do just to clean my gas piston on a regular basis. There is also the issue of wear and tear on the disassembly, and removing your sights/optics and having to rezero. I have to admit, the Vltor rail is well made but it is bulky, and the raised rail complicates the sight and optics issue. It's heavy compared to others. It worked OK on the POF, but I think that if I were to do it on a GSR-35, it would be with an Omega (which weighs about 1/10 of a CAS-V) and comes off a whole lot easier, or a Troy FF rail.
_DR- The Ares kit is fully reversible.
I was wondering how heavy it was. It looked pretty stout. I do like the design, but not for a GSR. If I ever get one to play with I think it will just go on my beater Bushmaster with the standard forearm.
I don't know, but I know it's a whole lot more than a DD Omega Rail.
Here's a pic of the CAS-V on the POF Upper I did (Not mine, and I hate the trebuchet sights- They have since been replaced with Troys)
http://www.parkcitiestactical.com/al...POF_Vltor3.jpg
I really like the looks of that forend. I've never liked grabbing a fist full of rails and have been looking at the PRI, VTAC, YHM models that allow you to put rails where you need them.
That piston system is beckoning to me. If Ares ever calls me back with their LEO discount info I'll try one on the Bushy.
Yeah, I get the impression I shouldn't be holding my breath. That makes me wonder how there their customer service is. :(
I had one, this happened to it after shooting a little full-auto:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...damaged001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...s/robbM164.jpg
The gas tube roll pin walked on it and allowed the spigot to move rearward which then bent the op rod. ARES replaced the op rod, and spigot. I later traded it off to a friend and installed it on his upper (a 16" LMT upper). I did a 'shave' job on his FSB and threaded the gas tube roll pin hole for a 4-40 set screw. In had to open up the hole on the spigot a little to allow the screw to pass through it. I used Rocksett on the set screw to hold it together. He had another guy on this website 'modificate' ;) a 12" Troy rail to fit over the system. It's working fine for him now and he shoots it with a suppressor as well. The system was very controllable on full auto with an H buffer and a Primary Weapons DNTC comp/brake. So controllable that I could keep all the round on a IPSC/IDPA target size group at 150yds all the way through the magazine on auto.
I assume they returned your call? Or was there a separate customer service #?
Does anyone think putting a G35 kit on a lightweight barrel profile would be an issue?
I received my conversion today and am in the process of installing it right now. Had to remove a little carbon first. Mine came with a little spring that goes in before the spigot to take the shock off the roll pin.
Is it more likely that the performance of the system is due to the DNTC and H-buffer or the op system?
The LWRC carbines that I tried seemed to have a sharper initial recoil than DI guns of similar length (14.5/16"), whereas the 416 seemed to have a smoother recoil impulse.
A 30 round burst on an IPSC target at 150 is damn good, and I doubt that I could do the same with any .mil configured gun. I have put 28 on an E-silhouette at 100 yards in FA, but only after a few attempts, and I doubt that I could do it on demand. The DTNC seems to be an excellent FH/MB, and some pistons seems to smooth out the recoil impulse; so in your opinion what most contributed to the controllability of the system?
It's the combination of the DNTC, H-buffer and the slow cyclic rate of the ARES (this was a 11.5" barrel). I think it's so controllable mostly because of the DNTC which is really at home on a full auto gun. If the DNTC where anymore efficient it would cause the muzzle to dive in full-auto. We did get to compare this setup against a 10.5" full auto LMT upper (w/A2 flash hider) on the same registered auto lower and the LMT would walk right off the target and it's cyclic rate was noticeably faster.