What's the difference other than the weight ofcourse? How do you know which one to use?
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What's the difference other than the weight ofcourse? How do you know which one to use?
I don't think there is any difference other than weight. As far as deciding which one to use, I would use the heaviest one that allows your rifle to still cycle completely and reliably. I like the heavier weights because it makes the rifle recoil softer and allows easier follow up shots.
i normally pick the heaviest one that will still cycle WOLF reliably and lock back on the last shot.
I take 20 mags, and load them all with ONE round. run through that cycle a few times, and you can be reasonably certain that the rifle will function correctly with that particular buffer.
HOWEVER. keep in mind, that when the rifle gets hot and dirty, you then may start experiencing short strokes with a heavier buffer.
SO, whatever the heaviest buffer that will reliably lock back on the last round, fully cycle........EVEN when using UNDERPOWERED ammo (wolf) and with a dirty action.
THAT is the buffer you want. a proper weight buffer will minimize battering of the parts, soften recoil impulse, improve follow up shots, increase dwell (hense increasing accuracy, and minimizing chamber blowback).....etc.
Good advice here.
I have 3 SBRs (10", 11.5" and a 12.5") and run H2s with them. I experimented around with different ones and these had be best feel and still worked with weak ammo.
My Colt with PWS piston kit feels best with a Enidine buffer hydraulic buffer followed closely by a H2 buffer. With a H it feels weird is the only way I can describe it. With and H3 if feels like more linear recoil almost like shooting buckshot through a 20ga, very weird.
i am running an rra 9mm buffer in my pws 10.5
The difference is weight. The result for the shooter is that it affects the feel of the recoil impulse.
Just after I got my 1st AR together (16" mid-length) I went shooting with a knowledgeable AR guy who brought along a selection of buffers. I tried H, H2, and a 9mm. Allowing for the fact that recoil is subjective, to me, with the 9mm buffer the rifle barely twitched. Conventional wisdom seems to be that you use the heaviest buffer you prefer, which which still cycles Wolf reliably.
I fired Wolf and Prvi 55gr. with the 9mm buffer and everything seemed in order. I plan to give myself a little margin and use the next step lighter than that, which would be an H2.
No, next step lighter than the 9mm would be the h3Quote:
Originally Posted by Raiden
Car std 3.0oz
Car H 3.8oz
Car H2 4.6oz
Car H3 5.4oz
RRA 9mm 5.6oz
My mistake -
I had mentally counted H2 as the next step down, since the difference between H3 and 9mm is so small, and H2s seem to be more widely available than H3s.
Thanks! You guys have been a huge help. Will probably get an H2 or all three and sell off the ones that dont work for me:)
Where is the best place to buy new buffers and springs?
Quote:
Originally Posted by morebullets
Brownells sells Chrome Silicone buffer springs that are standard weight. CS springs are supposed to last longer than a normal spring. Some people use a spring that is stiffer than stock, but on my midlength rifle the stiff springs dont cycle low powered ammo like wolf very well.
Does it matter who makes the buffer?
H2 buffers are available online in several flavors - made by Colt ($60), made by CMT ($30), made by unknown ($29.95 at Bravo Company), et cetera. How you'd tell them apart, I don't know, but I'm guessing the difference for the Colt is mainly for people who insist on these things? Or has the Colt buffer gone through a rigorous testing process involving being laser-measured, x-rayed, thrown off a cliff, run over by a tank, and jumped up and down on by Privates 1st Class in all weather conditions, and that's why it costs double?
Bravo Company says theirs is a standard USGI part, implying it's military spec. No maker was specified but they do make their own rifles and everybody who's handled one thinks they're awesome. And here, I doubt Grant would sell the CMT buffers if they were shit... So I'm thinking I'll just save myself $30 and go with one of those... ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by morebullets
Bravo Company.
with a 10.5 (mk18) setup i found the h2 to cause problems from time to time. IF you are running F/A i would recomend an H3 buffer. i got a AAC (a kinda counter weight thingy) buffer, so far no problems. i half to admit i havent done a beta dump(s) with it yet. (thats one way of telling if it will fubar on you) my rate of fire was off the chart so i went with a reducer..
i did have some short stroke issues with my factory mp15t with some ammo (i think i put the wrong hammer springs back in. i changed out my springs and to a H buffer for more compression. works like a raped ape now.
my 2 cents.
whats best for a 14.5 with a F/A bcg? or is it different for every rifle?
It depends on your barrel and the gas hole size, some are larger than others, also the ammo makes a diffrence too, I would try an H and H2Quote:
Originally Posted by spike
and make sure your bolt locks back on the last round.
MK18 type 1: NSWC assembled carbine with contracted and /or overhauled parts complete with all accessories to current standards at time of build will work with H or H2 and could have shipped with either. Units will balance buffer to ammo requirements:
H okay with M193/M855. (all ship board MK 18’s should have H buffers as this was the standard at the time of assembly).
H2 needed for MK 262/ R2LP & will run M193/M855.
H3 may be needed for an extreme cases or when the gas port is eroded but the barrel still groups.
I know those aren't your words, but Gas port erosion doesn't change gas flow. The top of the port stays the same diameter as the bore area tear drops out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska3006
:big_boss:
You do realize that this thread is 6 years old right?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska3006
If this thread is no longer dormant and has been resurrected via necronomicon ex mortis, I have discovered that one can make an H2 or H buffer by taking the tungsten weights out of an H3, and putting them in the proper order with one of the steel weights from the ubiquitous standard carbine buffers I'm sure we all have lying around. Thus, I only buy H3 buffers, and then can switch it down to an H2 or H as needed, or back up to an H3-- and I now have a use for the standard buffers... :cool:
I just read this post and the subject is still interesting. It may be a never ending quest,,the selection of the perfect buffer. The last carbine I owned was a Colt XM [15?] type with the 11 ish inch barrel and 6?inch muzzle brake I hated carbines ever since owning that AR. I like the 20 inch rifle. I guess I am old.Quote:
Originally Posted by Iraqgunz
.
But Obama is still president. I haven't owned a carbine since i owned a Colt XM type AR15 with the 11 inch barrel and the 5 inch ? muzzle brake. I hated the thing and sold it quick. May be its time to buy a new model. Always learning.Quote:
Originally Posted by Iraqgunz
If I had a sixty-five inch muzzle brake- boy howdy!- I'd hate it too!
;).. be kinda hard to maneuver.. Heavy too.. 8)
Well, I'm OK with reviving the thread. It's got me thinking that I need to buy an assortment of buffers and re-tune. Possibly the holiday sale's will help with that..
In my 6920's I don't find much difference in controllability between the H2/Wolff spring combo and the H3/Wolff spring combo when shooting PMC .223. However, I find the H3/Wolff spring combo a little more controllable in rapid fire when shooting full-power 5.56. Ejection pattern is the same 4 o'clock regardless of buffer/spring combo or ammo used.
Tomac
Springco White spring plus an H2, H3, and maybe an H6 and have at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokopelli
Next step lighter would be the H6 at 5.0ozQuote:
Originally Posted by ARin
H okay with M193/M855.
H2 needed for MK 262/ R2LP & will run M193/M855.
H3 may be needed for an extreme cases or when the gas port is eroded but the barrel still groups.
H6 when running Rifle length gas tube with 18" or 20" barrel