MOACKS has a baby!

To my surprise I've had only a few suggestions to make the MOACKS carrier key staker lighter. So I went ahead and did it anyway. The Pocket MOACKS is for the guy who needs a carrier key staker that takes up less room in the toolbox or travel kit and weighs a lot less.... and costs less, too. The penalty of course is that it does not have some of the "bonus" features of the original MOACKS, and it is a little slower to do a carrier with, but the size and weight advantage will be worth it to some. Also, it does one thing the MOACKS does not-- it can be used to counter stake the screw heads, an important part of the process if you ask me.

The P-MOACKS stakes the screws one at a time. Like the MOACKS it comes with a 5/32 Allen wrench with which to turn the staker screw, a 9/64 wrench for tightening the carrier key screws, and a 1/8" wrench for those carriers that use a non-standard screw with a 1/8 socket instead of the standard 9/64. With the P-MOACKS, the 9/64 or 1/8 wrench is used to position the tool properly by putting the wrench stem though a hole and into a carrier screw socket. Then the staker screw is turned in to touch, then turned in another 1 & 1/4 turns. Repeat four times.

To counter stake the screws, move the staker screw to the tapped hole in the top of the tool. Again use the 1/8 or 9/64 hole to locate the tool to a carrier key screw socket. Once the tool is located, the staker screw is turned in to touch plus one turn. Now there is screw head metal displaced outwardly that will impinge on the inwardly-displaced metal from the staking of the carrier key over the screw heads. Repeat once per carrier key screw.

I have been thinking about this for a year and prototyping it for a couple weeks now. I have run a small batch and have the blocks squared up for another small batch. The design may change slightly as I go along but only in terms of cosmetics. The first ones will have screws slightly longer than pictured as I use up some extras from my last run of MOACKS. The new tool, like the MOACKS, is made from gen-u-ine gun steel, not reconstituted car bodies-- it's Crucible Steel prehardened 4140. These are $70 plus $10 S&H to anywhere in the US or to APO's.....


Staking carrier key material over screw heads. 9/64 Allen wrench through top is locating tool to one of the carrier key screws.
http://www.louderthanwords.us/smallf...2770154452.jpg
Counter-staking the carrier key screws themselves. Again the 9/64 wrench works as a tool locator.
http://www.louderthanwords.us/smallf...2770154441.jpg
http://www.louderthanwords.us/smallf...7301096753.jpg
http://www.louderthanwords.us/smallf...7301096682.jpg
The tool, with screw put in from inside for storage (so it doesn't protrude and takes up less room).
http://www.louderthanwords.us/smallf...7301096701.jpg

I'll take one Ned, that's pretty cool as is everything you make. :D

I am trying to decide which model to order.
Any chance you got a pic of the two difference sizes side-by-side???
Might be nice to see...
Either way, thanks for offering us such nice inventions Mr. Christiansen!

Now that thing is not going anywhere!

That's excellent Ned! I'll be buying one.

I'll try to get a side by side pic. I can tell you how the weights compare, approx. 21 oz vs/ approx. 4 oz.

Some notes:

Once the screw heads are counter-staked, you can't get a wrench back into the socket to remove them. If you could, you probably still would twist or break the wrench before the screw came loose. The key is not an item that wears or otherwise needs to routinely come off, so..... who cares. It needs to be on there tight and right to keep the gun working, that's what matters.

Because the wrench won't go in after counter-staking, there would be a problem counter staking the second screw since the first one's socket won't accept the wrench stem for locating. To fix this, both the 9/64 and 1/8 wrench stems have a little metal ground off off two flats on the long end. This end is not used for wrenching anyway; the removed material allows the reduced area to be indexed to and inserted into where the screw socket is slightly deformed.

The hole in the tool for the 9/64 wrench to pass through for locating, obviously will be a little loose when the 1/8 wrench must be used. The dif is of no consequence. The mis-location would be max .007", not something that's gonna make any dif.

Ned, any chance for a hole through a non-essential area for dummy cording with 550? I'd hate to see these 'walk' away.

No prob. Anybody wanting that could have it at n/c for the asking.

I will absolutely take one of these. I already have the MOACKS but it does take up a good amount of room in the range bag. Resq47 good call on the hole for paracord to secure the thing.

What is the prefered method to keep these things from rusting? My MOACKs got a light powder of rust, so now I store it in the ziplock bag it came in after giving it a good dousing of oil and that seems to work. I'd love to be able to just store the tool loose in the bag. Any chance that the outer surface of the tool could be supplied with a more textured finish so that the end-user could apply a spray-and-bake finish (like Norell's) to help with the rust issue?

The best method is me making them from stainless-- but for a couple reasons I don't think that's gonna happen. I reckon I could blast them upon request.

That'd be awesome Ned. Put me down for a blasted one with a 550 cord hole. Obviously I'll pay whatever extra is required by the extra labor involved with the blasting. Let us know how we should order these.

Rob - Good point on the blasting, I've got a half-bottle of FDE gunkote around here somewhere...

This item falls into the "extremely useful" category. I must have one. IM sent.

MOACKS received and put to good use. This is a must have item for any body who does their own tinkering with ARs. Do you sell bolt tail and FP flange scrapers seperately or are they only integral with the full size MOACKS?

And oh yeah, free bump ;)

I got my P-MOACKS the other day as well. It does one hell of a job! :D

Gladja like the new tool, guys, thanks.

I have made some tools just for scraping-- it's a carrier scraper on one end and a bolt tail scraper on the other-- with a few other useful features. I just have not yet had time to make a batch so I can offer them. It's on the list, but the list is long!

BTW, I do agree with Pat Rogers and Dean Caputo with regards to the non-necessity of scraping these two areas. I've never heard of there being a problem.... I can imagine problems stemming from carbon build up, but have never experienced or heard of any. But.... I know there are folks who share my mental condition (love to clean guns)......

Edited to correct the spelling of Pat's last name..... sorry 'bout that Pat!

I cannot believe I have not seen this yet!!! Am I living under a rock??? :mad:

Ned, please send me one.



C4

On the way. Am also including a 6" long stick with which to prop up your rock:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ned Christiansen

On the way. Am also including a 6" long stick with which to prop up your rock:)

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Please spray paint the stick OD/FDE so I am "Tacti-Cool." :)


C4

Quote:

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Originally Posted by C4IGrant

Please spray paint the stick OD/FDE so I am "Tacti-Cool." :)


C4

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It'll only be Tacti-Cool if you put some 550 cord on it and a Picatinny rail. :p