Removal of Trigger Guard?

I am trying to install a Magpull Miad Grip and trigger guard to my N4. I am realizing that trying to remove the roll pin from the existing trigger guard might not be a just "go for it" process. So, is there a specific punch (size, #, shape,material?) technique (support method) to removing it with out breaking the receiver trigger tabs? After I get it started out do I drive it "all the way thru?" or as it comes out one side do I then grab it with a needle nose pliers and pull? I'm really trying not to have a failed surgery on my new N4:eek:

Any tool suggestions that I might need for minor adding and subtracting on my rifle would be appreciated.

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...=trigger+guard

Buckaroo

I swear I did several searches...I just did it again to see if I'm a special needs forum member and evidently I am:eek: Thanks

I'm going to try and find a AR gunsmith in Denver area tomorrow. If I snap it off I'll be ticked for a year:mad:

Any recommendations?

First, soak the existing installed roll pin in CLP.

Then, follow Magpul's easy instructions with a small hammer and a 1/8" roll pin punch available from Sears. Do not re-use the original roll pin.

Tap slowly, and the oil will be your friend. Use needle-nose pliers for re-inserting the new roll pin, which you should oil heavily prior to installing.

I had to beat the snot out of the pin in my LMT lower to get it out. I think they used some kind of loc-tite or something similar.

I wish I knew about that roll pin punch kit before a few days ago when I had to pop out the trigger guard for my MIAD... I almost ruined my punch trying to get that sumbitch out. Anvil Arms LPK in a Superior Arms lower receiver = TIGHT spaces.


-B

I decided to take it to a 1911 gunsmith buddy and have him try because I know him and he is near by. He took one look at it and laughed and confidently said, "This will only take a minute" He went in the back and 15 min later comes back and says with a mixture of frustration and failure, "Son of a B!t@& I think I got it to move, but barely!" He showed me that the pin spun "with" the trigger guard plate and was spinning in the receiver ears, so it was not even barely making contact with the receiver ears if at all. We decided to try one more time from the other side and it was torture listening to him hammer the heck out of it in the back almost like listening to your child screaming in the dentist chair while you wait in the waiting room:eek:

We got it and the Miad is now installed:p Really glad I stopped and let a pro do the first one. I plan on being capable of doing the next one tho;)

I was hammering out mine too.. it's not a easy task. One of my lowers i would never take out the trigger guard because i know it's so damn tight since I had to hammer the hell out of it to get it in.

Mine was pretty snug to but damn. i would have just drilled the old one out. the new trigger guard came with a new one correct?

If I could do it over again I would put the Magpul Trigger Guard in that is not integral to the Miad Grip so that if I need to mess with the grip I would not have to remove the trigger guard also, but I'm thrilled so far with the set up I have;)

Most companies put lock tite on there. Its sometimes a PAIN to get out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ACBMWM3

Most companies put lock tite on there. Its sometimes a PAIN to get out.

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Who exactly puts loctite on roll pins? I've never seen or heard of this and I know for a fact that I don't at work. Roll pins are designed to offer (axial?) spring tension.

I second that. I dont know any benefit to putting loctite on a rollpin. its for use on threaded items. those pins are just a pain in the ass is all.

Ive seen it on some Colts, CD, a few RRA's

I didn't know a small sampling of those three companies represented most of the industry. BTW, colt does not use loctite.

thats totally not the intention for loctite. What kinda person would do that

They could have used Loc-Tite 380 (Black Max Adhesive) but I have never heard of this being done across the board. If the roll pin is difficult to remove all you need is to apply some Kroil, CLP or similar and let it soak in. Then using a correct punch tap it out. It's worked for me over the years.

PUT DOWN THE HAMMERS PEOPLE!!

Here's what you do...

Get a drill press, non-maring support material (wood) and a punch. You may also need a pair of needle nose pliers and a third hand.

To remove the existing pin:
Support the lower with the wood, being sure to leave room for the pin to come out. Chuck the punch in the drill press and ease down on the pin. Slowly apply pressure to the pin until it starts to move. When it does, keep the pressure on. You can either push the pin all the way out or stop short and pull it out with pliers.

To install the new pin:
Close the jaws of the chuck completely. Lower the chuck down on the pin and apply pressure until it starts to move. Keep pressing the pin in untill it's almost flush. Then, chuck the punch and drive the pin in till it's even on both sides of the lower. You may need an extra hand to hold the pin with the pliers.

Trust me, it works great!