Troy Alpha Rail Install and Review

[mkmckinley]

You're going to find a little flex on any free float handguard. It's just the nature of the design. I think that's why a lot of people just leave their FSB in place and learn to ignore it when shooting optics. Also some of that flex is the barrel. The whole point of a FFR is to allow any pressure on the handguard to flex the handguard and not affect the barrel. I get your point about the BUIS being attached to the handguard and being shifted if you're putting a lot of pressure on it, but in that case your primary sight, the Eotech, should be more precise than if you'd had a non FFR. It's just a tradeoff. The good news is you saved a little weight and you're very unlikely to need your BUIS, especially for a long shot.

[nanners83]

Got my 11" Alpha installed... This is on a new Sig M400 and taking off the factory railed FSB was difficult to say the least. I resorted to a Dremel and 30K RPMs with a metal cutting wheel. Everything went on in a straightforward manner but as this is my first rifle and first time doing work on a weapon platform, I felt that it wasn't the most bulletprooof of designs. Don't get me wrong, I love the rail and it is tightly affixed to the barrel nut. I just couldn't imagine swinging the rifle as a hand-to-hand weapon w/out the Alpha popping off. Also, (at least for the 11" version) I am not thrilled with the fact that you can flex the front end so easily. Holding the barrel in hand and pressing on the handguard with your thumb easily bounces the handguard. I'm sure that it will affect accuracy of the BUIS when any pressure is placed on the front end. Maybe that is the price you pay to lose a few oz.

Since I am new to all of this, take my review with a grain of salt. Perhaps this sort of fit, finish and build quality is the standard for upper-end free float tube rails. I honestly wont know either way until my Noveske NSR comes in and I get it mounted. If I purchase any other Alphas, they will probably by 9" or less in order to minimize the flex issue.

More than likely the barrel is flexing as much or more than the handguard is. You'd be surprised how flexible most barrels are. Especially light or government profiles.

[Dlo250]

I have the Troy complete carbine w 13" rail an mine doesn't flex. I'm interested in attaching a picatinny section to the rail, but don't want to disconnect the rail from the upper. It's nice and tight and lined up perfect right now...

[PFran42]

I have the Troy complete carbine w 13" rail an mine doesn't flex. I'm interested in attaching a picatinny section to the rail, but don't want to disconnect the rail from the upper. It's nice and tight and lined up perfect right now...

Pinch the muzzle against the end of the hand guard and I guarantee it will easily flex. I have both the 11" and 13" models and both flex with very slight pressure applied to the muzzle end of the hand guards no matter how tightly mounted the Alpha rail is mounted to the barrel nut. It is very easy to attach a picatinny rail with the hand guard already attached. Just work from "under" the rifle. Slide the backing plate on between the hand guard and the barrel, press the picatinny rail in place and tighten the screws.

I already posted a pic of the 11" model earlier in this thread but here is the 13" for your viewing pleasure...

[mkmckinley]

I have the Troy complete carbine w 13" rail an mine doesn't flex. I'm interested in attaching a picatinny section to the rail, but don't want to disconnect the rail from the upper. It's nice and tight and lined up perfect right now...

Just use any accessory that attaches to a picatinny rail as a clamp when you tighten it back down. I use a carry handle but an optics mount will work fine too. You probably want to use blue Loctite or some equivalent when you reinstall. Torque the screw down a little at a time going around like you do when you change a tire. It should be fine.

[repps604]

I've got a carbine length gas system and I'm looking at putting on a 11 or 13 inch vtac alpha. I will probably just hack the front A post instead of replacing it with a low profile. Has anyone had any problems with the clearance for the picateanny rails inserts around the gas block?

[PFran42]

I've got a carbine length gas system and I'm looking at putting on a 11 or 13 inch vtac alpha. I will probably just hack the front A post instead of replacing it with a low profile. Has anyone had any problems with the clearance for the picateanny rails inserts around the gas block?

Yes, right around the gas block. You have to plan out where you want your add-on rails as the gas block can interfere with their placement.

-Sent from a brilliant phone.

[Diver160651A]

I have the Troy complete carbine w 13" rail an mine doesn't flex. I'm interested in attaching a picatinny section to the rail, but don't want to disconnect the rail from the upper. It's nice and tight and lined up perfect right now...

Here is a mounting trick for those who might not want to remove their rails to install picatinny sections. I have both the alpha and extreme rails, and the technique works for those with slots or holes. This makes it easy to pass the gas block etc. and not loose the mounting plates.

1. Take the backing plates and tape a length of electrical or similar tape to the back (part inside the rail but facing the barrel).

2. Cut it about 6" longer than the distance of your planed mounting location past the mussel end of the rail.

3. With your unloaded gun facing barrel up and the side of the rail you want to mount the picatinny to facing slightly down; Insert your backing plate using the tape to to control it.

3. Once you have the holes lined up, simply tape the extra length over the top and to the outside of the mussel end of the rail. This ends up being your third hand.

4. Using a long thin screw driver, insert it thru a hole or slot perpendicular but behind your mount to securely pressure the plate to the inside of the rail.

5. Simply attach your picatinny section, remove the screw driver and pull the tape out.

I could post a pic -- it is way less complicated and faster than it sounds. Of course just taking off the rail is easy too, but then some might have to rezero.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[USA]

Here is a mounting trick for those who might not want to remove their rails to install picatinny sections. I have both the alpha and extreme rails, and the technique works for those with slots or holes. This makes it easy to pass the gas block etc. and not loose the mounting plates.

1. Take the backing plates and tape a length of electrical or similar tape to the back (part inside the rail but facing the barrel).

2. Cut it about 6" longer than the distance of your planed mounting location past the mussel end of the rail.

3. With your unloaded gun facing barrel up and the side of the rail you want to mount the picatinny to facing slightly down; Insert your backing plate using the tape to to control it.

3. Once you have the holes lined up, simply tape the extra length over the top and to the outside of the mussel end of the rail. This ends up being your third hand.

4. Using a long thin screw driver, insert it thru a hole or slot perpendicular but behind your mount to securely pressure the plate to the inside of the rail.

5. Simply attach your picatinny section, remove the screw driver and pull the tape out.

I could post a pic -- it is way less complicated and faster than it sounds. Of course just taking off the rail is easy too, but then some might have to rezero.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I like it. Nice first post by the way. I have a VTAC rail being installed right now by a gunsmith because I did not wish to try shaving the FSB myself. Will try this technique when I get my rifle back.

[jbasas13]

about to pick up a troy midlength drop in rail pros and cons?