I find its easier just to install the flash hinder by first just threading it on with the bevel washer by hand until it stops against the barrel. Then just unthread the flash hinder until it aligns up and down correctly. If the gap is too small, back it out one more turn. Then using the shims in the kit, measure the gap between the washer and flash hinder. Then using the chart they give with the instructions, adjust the shim thickness by adding in .002" to .003" to your shim thickness you measured. The flash hinder only needs to turn about 1/16 of an inch to reach the torque value they call out in the instructions. I've installed 4 of flash hinders this way and its the easiest way I've found to do it.
Last edited by oddballmkg; 07-10-12 at 03:25.
That really doesn't sound any easier than using the color chart and a torque wrench.
I find when I follow Surefire's instructions, I end up having to remove and retry the shimming 3 to 4 times until I get the right combination of shims that allow the flash hinder to be clocked correctly. With doing what I described in the above post, it usually takes me one try to get it right. I have to witness a lot of shimming installations at work, you would not believe how many shims are used in building of airplanes. This is why I find it faster to do my method than using their installation instructions.
I've never had too much trouble shimming with Surefire's chart.
They give you that point on the chart you're suppose to be aligned at prior to torquing. I always aim for the inside of this, between it and 6 o-clock. Its almost as if the start point prior to torque should be a little more toward 6 o-clock.
Either way, its a flash hider not a space shuttle. The chart works. I wouldn't go out and buy a set of feeler gauges for it. If I had a set lying around...