New to reloading, questions on setup, processing, etc.

[Eric D.]

I've been through several threads in this section and I have a pretty good idea about what reloading involves and what equipment is needed. I want to reload 5.56. Nothing special, something similar to M193 or M855. I may get into other calibers down the road but right now my focus is being able to produce fair quantities of 5.56.

I'm looking at the basic Dillon 550. I know I want a progressive press and Dillon has a good reputation. I also like that the 550 is upgradable. The first thing I would add is the automatic priming system.

I have a few questions about the efficiency of this setup though. Obviously, all the brass I've collected needs tumbled, resized, and decapped. Since the 550 resizes and decaps on the first stroke (it also primes on the first stroke with the upgrade) I would have to take the brass out after the first station to gage it, swage the primer pocket if necessary, and trim the case if necessary. It seems that maximum efficiency with a progressive system can only be achieved if using new brass. I have thought about getting a cheap single stage press for the sole purpose of resizing/decapping. I'm curious how others separate the brass prep from the actual loading. Any ideas are appreciated.

[jstone]

Most people set up 2 tool heads one does processing the other loads. The 550 should come with the priming system. You can also trim on the press with the rt1200. You do not need to gauge every piece of brass. Once your die is est up and sizing to your liking no more need to gauge. You can check at intervals to make sure adjustments are holding, but no need to gauge every piece.

Google dillon 550 for processing, and for loading. You will see how multiple people set up both tool heads. Some will also do brass prep on a single stage and only load on the 550. You will want a single stage they are great for sizing brass.

Everybody i know has single and progressive. You do not have to learn on a single, but it is a good way to go. You get to learn everything without the complication of keeping a progressive running. Almost all progressives are going to need tuning to keep running smoothly. If you take apart for cleaning you Will need to setup again. 550 is not bad as some auto advance progressives.

[ICANHITHIMMAN]

If I could do it again I would get the 650 due to its auto indexing feature. The advice you got in the first post is spot on. I use and old rock chucker and the dilion trim die and trimmer to prep all the brass prior to running it thought the machine.

After you do this step once, you can get away with skipping the trimming for 2 to 3 loading's after that.

[markm]

Rifle brass prep at a minumum is a two phase process.

I tumble off the resizing lube before any sort of trimming and crimp removal.

[Boxerglocker]

OP, at bare minimum just get a RL550... the BL is gonna do nothing for you loading bulk .223 you would have to upgrade it all eventually anyways. Unless you intend to weigh and trickle every load you'll need the powder drop.

[Eric D.]

I hear you, I'm just still trying to figure out how much money I want to spend initially.

OP, at bare minimum just get a RL550... the BL is gonna do nothing for you loading bulk .223 you would have to upgrade it all eventually anyways. Unless you intend to weigh and trickle every load you'll need the powder drop.

Markm, I came across a post of yours where you say you don't even bother to trim rifle brass because you can get away without it for the first 2-3 reloads?
Its also my understanding that crimp removal is a one-time process, correct?
What about cleaning the primer pocket?

[chadbag]

Everybody i know has single and progressive. You do not have to learn on a single, but it is a good way to go. You get to learn everything without the complication of keeping a progressive running. Almost all progressives are going to need tuning to keep running smoothly. If you take apart for cleaning you Will need to setup again. 550 is not bad as some auto advance progressives.

Use it like a simple turret press (i.e., basically as a fancy single stage) until you get it down. An RL550B or the BL550 does not HAVE to be run as a progressive (which the BL550 is not really anyway, being more a reverse turret).


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[robfromsc]

Rifle brass is more time consuming than straight wall pistol. Depending on your case lube youll have to tumble the sizing lube off before you prime and load.

I use a turret press but set up single stage to decap and resize. I go through a hole batch, say 500 cases and get them decapped and sized, then tumble them. Inspect and measure. Then set the press up to load . Rifle ammo is more time consuming than pistol ammo.

[yellowfin]

Is there one powder measure or another that's best at feeding stick powders consistently? I'm told that with some powders the extrusion is too long to come out precisely every time and need to weigh each individual powder charge versus ball powders that flow more easily. I'm looking to load 5.56 and 7.62x54R.

[markm]

Is there one powder measure or another that's best at feeding stick powders consistently? I'm told that with some powders the extrusion is too long to come out precisely every time and need to weigh each individual powder charge versus ball powders that flow more easily. I'm looking to load 5.56 and 7.62x54R.

There's all kind of powder measures and all kinds of powders. Your powder of choice and your consistency requirement will dictate the best measure.

I load anything like Varget, 4064, or any of those relatively long cuts on a Chargemaster. Ball and short cut extrudes meter good enough on the Dillon 550b.

There are nice Harrell bench mounted powder throws that will meter stick pretty well... but those get a little expensive.