NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor
Glock Certified Armorer
Admitted New York State Bar 1994
I use Froglube carbon cutter to remove the anti-sieze lube in Glocks daily. It's great for that. Then a blast of gun scrubber to get the water out of the slide.
If it weren't supplied at work, I wouldn't use it. Way overpriced for what it does IMO.
I'm a lead farmer motherf**ker! - Kurt Lazarus
Not to hi jack the thread. But has any one here used Gunzilla?
I have heard it works way better than Frog Lube or anything else on the market. I would like to see a comparison between Gunzilla and Fire Clean
Last edited by VIP3R 237; 04-10-13 at 22:07.
It means I dumped froglube after my bolt-carrier both got rust on them after I switched to it. Since going to a different product, and maintaining things much less meticulously even, I have no more rust-speckles. When I tested FireClean vs. Froglube with saltwater, it did much worse than FL. I never ran it on a weapon to say, but if FL failed me, I can't imagine FC working.
Short story?
-Lubed the shit out of my Noveske with FL and left for Arkansas (I live in Louisiana) .
-Went and shot 120 rounds of MK318 SOST suppressed in humid (but no rain) NW AR.
-Drove from range to a friend's house where I took the rifle down, wiped everything with a microfiber cloth, leaving a wet "sheen" instead of the caking that was on the parts.
-Set the rifle in a corner and went and had supper, hung out, etc.
-Put the rifle back in the zip-up case and drive home the next morning.
-Cleaned it that night. Orange rust speckles on the bolt tail. Removed them with rubbing and more FL. Dark stains remained. The Froglube felt like Elmer's glue a week later. Stripped it out with heat, alcohol, etc. and transitioned to another product and haven't looked back.
Last edited by WS6; 04-10-13 at 22:13.
Something I have noticed with all lubricants/protectants is that they need to be clean and dry when the product is applied, otherwise they simply trap the contaminant under the product in contact with metal. Kinda like painting over rust.
I wipe the parts clean with a good carbon cutter, hit it with some non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and chase with pressurized air and/or a heat gun, and then apply the product.
I have left guns that were treated this way in wet pelican cases for days with no rust appearing on the treated parts. It seems that non-toxic/non-petroleum products need a little more prep-work for anti-corrosion.
Would chemical de-greasing with 91% ISA and then heating in an oven before applying count? That's what I did. Maybe I needed to chemically de-grease and re-heat immediately after shooting the weapon, too, instead of just wiping. Screw that. Give me my petro-products!
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