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Thread: Glock Froglube vs FIREclean

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    I haven't had a chance to try it on a gun for a high range count session yet but it sucked out loud compared to FL on my new Spyderco. That being said, I'm dead certain either lube will work fine.
    What did you use it for on the knife?

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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    What did you use it for on the knife?
    Not protection as it's a Salt (pretty much impervious to corrosion) but for lubing the contact points on the blade/frame and locking mechanism. Noticeable improvement over FireClean. I'll prolly use FireClean this weekend for a carbine shoot with my 5.45 if the targets are 5.45 friendly.

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    Not protection as it's a Salt (pretty much impervious to corrosion) but for lubing the contact points on the blade/frame and locking mechanism. Noticeable improvement over FireClean. I'll prolly use FireClean this weekend for a carbine shoot with my 5.45 if the targets are 5.45 friendly.
    Gotcha. Fireclean/Froglube prevents simply have not met my demands in a product for corrosion resistance. Clean appropriately. I've had Froglube rust stuff up overnight in the real world (shooting, not nails in the kitchen). Fireclean did worse than Froglube "in the kitchen". So be careful with it. I would like to note, though---and this is entirely subjective---that I bought a new RAPTOR Charging handle and lubed one side with FireClean, and one side with MPro7LPX, and cycled it a dozen or so times with each hand, as evenly as I could. The FireClean treated side showed MUCH less wear. Hardly scientific, but I was impressed. If your requirements place lubrication ahead of corrosion resistance, I think FireClean is a definite consideration.
    Last edited by WS6; 04-12-13 at 18:07.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magsz View Post
    Remember the earlier comment about the fool? Im pretty dumb but im no fool...

    I have used Froglube by way of my easily swayed, loose "walleted" buddy.

    It looked like lube, it smelled like lube and it worked like lube. My gun even went bang.

    I then proceeded to back to the same quart of mobil 1 ive been using for the past five years of HEAVY shooting...

    Im all for progressive development but the AR is an internal combustion engine masquerading as a gun. If a damned Indy car can get by on Mobil 1 i am pretty sure my gun will be ok without Navy Seal Jizz liberally spooged all over it...
    I've been using Buzzy's Slick Honey, which is a bike fork grease. $20 for 16 oz, essentially a lifetime supply. It works similar to how I hear Frog lube described; aka its a grease, heats up and gets "wetter" then cools back down to a grease.

    The fact that that stuff works so well for me makes me want to think that the whole lubrication thing is way over thought. Just keep your gun lubed up and it'll be good.

  5. #65
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    Re: Glock Froglube vs FIREclean

    Quote Originally Posted by Trajan View Post
    I've been using Buzzy's Slick Honey, which is a bike fork grease. $20 for 16 oz, essentially a lifetime supply. It works similar to how I hear Frog lube described; aka its a grease, heats up and gets "wetter" then cools back down to a grease.

    The fact that that stuff works so well for me makes me want to think that the whole lubrication thing is way over thought. Just keep your gun lubed up and it'll be good.
    And it's non-toxic?

    Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
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  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    And it's non-toxic?

    Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.
    I'm going to guess no by the "Keep out of reach of children" and "In case of swallowing, consult a physician".

    It doesn't have any fumes or anything if that's what you're asking. Just can't eat it or put it in your eyes.

  7. #67
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    Re: Glock Froglube vs FIREclean

    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    I can't get any audio on that video. What are we looking at?

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtdawg169 View Post
    I can't get any audio on that video. What are we looking at?
    Reading is fundamental

    From the link:

    LaRue MG Lube (far left) vs. Weapon Shield (middle) vs. Froglube Paste
    This is a test WS6 did.

  9. #69
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    We're running FireClean on the Dynamics side. Been so happy with it that we're going to switch to using it on all our testing guns at Industries. Saving on cleaning time is a pretty big thing when testing 10 suppressed rifle combinations in a day.
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  10. #70
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    Re: Glock Froglube vs FIREclean

    Quote Originally Posted by Trajan View Post
    I'm going to guess no by the "Keep out of reach of children" and "In case of swallowing, consult a physician".

    It doesn't have any fumes or anything if that's what you're asking. Just can't eat it or put it in your eyes.
    My question was socratic.
    Non toxicity is one of the main thrusts of these new lubricants.


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  11. #71
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    Re: Glock Froglube vs FIREclean

    Quote Originally Posted by Littlelebowski View Post
    Reading is fundamental

    From the link:



    This is a test WS6 did.
    Thanks LL. I'll go back to read the description.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    Gotcha. Fireclean/Froglube prevents rust slightly better than spit. Clean appropriately. I've had Froglube rust stuff up overnight in the real world (shooting, not nails in the kitchen). Fireclean did worse than Froglube "in the kitchen". So be careful with it.
    I'm usually quick on the up-take but what does any of this mean? Is this comedy or does it mean FireClean/Frog Lube are only good as a lubricants but do not protect agaist corrosion?
    NRA Life Member and Certified Instructor
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  13. #73
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    I use Froglube carbon cutter to remove the anti-sieze lube in Glocks daily. It's great for that. Then a blast of gun scrubber to get the water out of the slide.

    If it weren't supplied at work, I wouldn't use it. Way overpriced for what it does IMO.
    I'm a lead farmer motherf**ker! - Kurt Lazarus

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6 View Post
    Gotcha. Fireclean/Froglube prevents rust slightly better than spit. Clean appropriately. I've had Froglube rust stuff up overnight in the real world (shooting, not nails in the kitchen). Fireclean did worse than Froglube "in the kitchen". So be careful with it.
    Same here with the Froglube. I live in the desert and had rust show up with Froglube. Combine that with the tedious application and i don't think its worth it to me.
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    Not to hi jack the thread. But has any one here used Gunzilla?
    I have heard it works way better than Frog Lube or anything else on the market. I would like to see a comparison between Gunzilla and Fire Clean

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lamented View Post
    Not to hi jack the thread. But has any one here used Gunzilla?
    I have heard it works way better than Frog Lube or anything else on the market. I would like to see a comparison between Gunzilla and Fire Clean
    Gunzilla is good with clean up, but it is way too fluid and runs and burns off very fast to really care about it as a lubricant.

    I'm still a SL!P 2000 fan myself, especially the EWL.
    Last edited by VIP3R 237; 04-10-13 at 22:07.
    FFL 07/ NFA 02
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  17. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLCedeno View Post
    I'm usually quick on the up-take but what does any of this mean? Is this comedy or does it mean FireClean/Frog Lube are only good as a lubricants but do not protect agaist corrosion?
    It means I dumped froglube after my bolt-carrier both got rust on them after I switched to it. Since going to a different product, and maintaining things much less meticulously even, I have no more rust-speckles. When I tested FireClean vs. Froglube with saltwater, it did much worse than FL. I never ran it on a weapon to say, but if FL failed me, I can't imagine FC working.

    Short story?

    -Lubed the shit out of my Noveske with FL and left for Arkansas (I live in Louisiana) .
    -Went and shot 120 rounds of MK318 SOST suppressed in humid (but no rain) NW AR.
    -Drove from range to a friend's house where I took the rifle down, wiped everything with a microfiber cloth, leaving a wet "sheen" instead of the caking that was on the parts.
    -Set the rifle in a corner and went and had supper, hung out, etc.
    -Put the rifle back in the zip-up case and drive home the next morning.
    -Cleaned it that night. Orange rust speckles on the bolt tail. Removed them with rubbing and more FL. Dark stains remained. The Froglube felt like Elmer's glue a week later. Stripped it out with heat, alcohol, etc. and transitioned to another product and haven't looked back.
    Last edited by WS6; 04-10-13 at 22:13.

  18. #78
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    Something I have noticed with all lubricants/protectants is that they need to be clean and dry when the product is applied, otherwise they simply trap the contaminant under the product in contact with metal. Kinda like painting over rust.
    I wipe the parts clean with a good carbon cutter, hit it with some non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and chase with pressurized air and/or a heat gun, and then apply the product.
    I have left guns that were treated this way in wet pelican cases for days with no rust appearing on the treated parts. It seems that non-toxic/non-petroleum products need a little more prep-work for anti-corrosion.
    Jack Leuba
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  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Something I have noticed with all lubricants/protectants is that they need to be clean and dry when the product is applied, otherwise they simply trap the contaminant under the product in contact with metal. Kinda like painting over rust.
    I wipe the parts clean with a good carbon cutter, hit it with some non-chlorinated brake cleaner, and chase with pressurized air and/or a heat gun, and then apply the product.
    I have left guns that were treated this way in wet pelican cases for days with no rust appearing on the treated parts. It seems that non-toxic/non-petroleum products need a little more prep-work for anti-corrosion.
    Would chemical de-greasing with 91% ISA and then heating in an oven before applying count? That's what I did. Maybe I needed to chemically de-grease and re-heat immediately after shooting the weapon, too, instead of just wiping. Screw that. Give me my petro-products!

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    and chase with pressurized air and/or a heat gun, and then apply the product.
    F2S, i think you hit upon a good point with the heat gun. My thoughts are that heating up the parts first may allow the pores to open up in the material to allow the product to penetrate better. At least it sounds good in my mind.
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