Glock Froglube vs FIREclean

[Failure2Stop]

Would chemical de-greasing with 91% ISA and then heating in an oven before applying count? That's what I did. Maybe I needed to chemically de-grease and re-heat immediately after shooting the weapon, too, instead of just wiping. Screw that. Give me my petro-products!

HA, yeah, I would think that would count.

I wish there was a well funded, non-biased, company/organization that could really test these products under applicable controlled conditions to determine actual performance.

[WS6]

HA, yeah, I would think that would count.

I wish there was a well funded, non-biased, company/organization that could really test these products under applicable controlled conditions to determine actual performance.

I agree. However, in the real world, under heavy combat, and in adverse conditions, Froglube failed me.

Wait...that's not exactly true.

Slow-firing 120 rounds at a WMA range from a bench under a covered awning and then cleaning the rifle immediately after, Froglube failed me.

I guess I'm just seriously against any product that shits the bed under such circumstances in my own personal experience. I gave all of it away except a small bottle for future messing with and now run MPro7-LPX, which has yet to fail me in any way, whether it's a 3-day 1500+ round carbine course with no re-lubing or cleaning, or just keeping things preserved while they sit.

[Failure2Stop]

F2S, i think you hit upon a good point with the heat gun. My thoughts are that heating up the parts first may allow the pores to open up in the material to allow the product to penetrate better. At least it sounds good in my mind.

From what I know about materials used in firearm manufacturing I am highly skeptical about opening pores at temperatures that are conducive to handling.

I mostly like heat because it dries left over cleaner, softens residual carbon fouling, and makes the product flow into nooks and crannies faster then when at room temperature (evaporation of brake cleaner/carbon blaster/etc cools the metal).

[Failure2Stop]

I agree. However, in the real world, under heavy combat, and in adverse conditions, Froglube failed me.

I had FrogLube fail as well, which is one of the reasons that I started using FireClean exclusively.

[WS6]

I had FrogLube fail as well, which is one of the reasons that I started using FireClean exclusively.

You used to be all about it. Did I miss where it failed? I have some Fireclean myself. It seems like a great lube, but very poor for corrosion just in my *kitchen testing*

[Failure2Stop]

You used to be all about it. Did I miss where it failed? I have some Fireclean myself. It seems like a great lube, but very poor for corrosion just in my *kitchen testing*

I started using FL right after it came to market, as it was "the" non-toxic solution, so I shared my experience as it was gained.

It failed under a unique condition, and I won't throw anybody under the bus for a single issue that I have not tested or attempted to replicate. FireClean takes a different approach than FrogLube, and it has been working very well under all conditions I have exposed it to as far as functional lubricant on a variety of systems.

I kinda feel like I'm being perceived as touting these products as cures to all ails, which I really am not intentionally doing. I use a specific product for deep carbon cleaning, another for copper removal, and another for anti-corrosion (really, I use CLP the most for exposed metal that doesn't need to be lubricated, not because it's the best but because I have plenty of it on hand). I have had handgun sights rust that continued to rust after using everything I could put my paws on. In the end I realized that I would just have to be more meticulous in timely maintenance if they were exposed to corrosive conditions.

One thing that I really like FL for is to give a good coating to mounted light lenses to make clean-up easier. Well, that, and I like the paste on handguns since it stays in place, and Glocks aren't highly lube-dependent to start with. Yes, FC does a good job on light lenses as well, but it's easier to just smear some on the lens when I dab it on the rest of the pistol with the FL paste.

At the end of the day, it's lube. Anything is better than nothing, and to me, non-toxic is better than toxic even if I have to use it more often (unless discussing long-term storage). There are few topics that I find less productive than arguing about lubricants.

[VIP3R 237]

From what I know about materials used in firearm manufacturing I am highly skeptical about opening pores at temperatures that are conducive to handling.

I mostly like heat because it dries left over cleaner, softens residual carbon fouling, and makes the product flow into nooks and crannies faster then when at room temperature (evaporation of brake cleaner/carbon blaster/etc cools the metal).

Yeah it was just a theory. Thanks for the clarification.

[PLCedeno]

It means I dumped froglube after my bolt-carrier both got rust on them after I switched to it. Since going to a different product, and maintaining things much less meticulously even, I have no more rust-speckles. When I tested FireClean vs. Froglube with saltwater, it did much worse than FL. I never ran it on a weapon to say, but if FL failed me, I can't imagine FC working.

Short story?

-Lubed the shit out of my Noveske with FL and left for Arkansas (I live in Louisiana) .
-Went and shot 120 rounds of MK318 SOST suppressed in humid (but no rain) NW AR.
-Drove from range to a friend's house where I took the rifle down, wiped everything with a microfiber cloth, leaving a wet "sheen" instead of the caking that was on the parts.
-Set the rifle in a corner and went and had supper, hung out, etc.
-Put the rifle back in the zip-up case and drive home the next morning.
-Cleaned it that night. Orange rust speckles on the bolt tail. Removed them with rubbing and more FL. Dark stains remained. The Froglube felt like Elmer's glue a week later. Stripped it out with heat, alcohol, etc. and transitioned to another product and haven't looked back.

Gotcha. This experience should settle it. Weapons Shield for me.

[Boss Hogg]

It means I dumped froglube after my bolt-carrier both got rust on them after I switched to it. Since going to a different product, and maintaining things much less meticulously even, I have no more rust-speckles. When I tested FireClean vs. Froglube with saltwater, it did much worse than FL. I never ran it on a weapon to say, but if FL failed me, I can't imagine FC working.

Short story?

-Lubed the shit out of my Noveske with FL and left for Arkansas (I live in Louisiana) .
-Went and shot 120 rounds of MK318 SOST suppressed in humid (but no rain) NW AR.
-Drove from range to a friend's house where I took the rifle down, wiped everything with a microfiber cloth, leaving a wet "sheen" instead of the caking that was on the parts.
-Set the rifle in a corner and went and had supper, hung out, etc.
-Put the rifle back in the zip-up case and drive home the next morning.
-Cleaned it that night. Orange rust speckles on the bolt tail. Removed them with rubbing and more FL. Dark stains remained. The Froglube felt like Elmer's glue a week later. Stripped it out with heat, alcohol, etc. and transitioned to another product and haven't looked back.

WS6- what was your saltwater test?

[WS6]

WS6- what was your saltwater test?

Nothing special. Random concentration of salt-water saturating toilet-tissue laid across a "treated" (with various lubricants) allen-wrench with the surface sanded shiny.

Repeatedly my results were, from best to worst

Gunslick foaming gun oil (This stuff is just absurd. Flat out insane rust prevention.)

_______
CLP (Very very good.)
MPro7-LPX (Very good. No worries)
______________________
Weaponshield (Good, about what you expect. No surprises either way from an oil. Better than motor oil.)
Froglube (Excellent when layered thick as a paste as a "barrier" rust preventative. Pretty crappy as a "film" wiped on.)
______________________
Fireclean (It might work better than spitting on it.)

Separated into "tiers" of performance I observed.