Help removing A2 RE - LaRue PredetAR

[Alex V]

I have had to hot form 7075T6 to remove dents from aircraft parts without cracking them. The tech manual states to use a heat gun and not an open flame because, if I recall right, the open flame can introduce carbon to the material and this is to be avoided. If I recall, it can cause embrittlement. I believe it also states that the material can be heated no more than three times and for only about 5 minutes for each attempt. I don't recall what the maximum allowable temp was, but I believe it was less than 300 degrees. Exceeding these limits could ruin the heat treat.

What this means is please be careful to not damage your lower with the heat

This just confuses me because why would someone use something like red loctight if the lower would need to be heated to a temperature exceeding a safety limit in order to remove the RE...

Very frustrating indeed.

[MistWolf]

There are other ways to break Locktite loose than heat. I do agree that Loctite for the RE is unwanted overkill. Threaded aluminum parts have enough friction that they'll stick together fine without Locktite. In fact, assembly lube should be used to prevent galling

[BufordTJustice]

There are other ways to break Locktite loose than heat. I do agree that Loctite for the RE is unwanted overkill. Threaded aluminum parts have enough friction that they'll stick together fine without Locktite. In fact, assembly lube should be used to prevent galling

Maybe try some penetrating lubricant (like that used for rusted buts/bolts....comes in a spray can)?

[MistWolf]

That's a possibility. I find that breaking the Locktite usually involves proper application of torque.

Alex, using a mag as a receiver vise block just isn't going to work. You're going to have to get a real vise block.

You did remove the buffer detent first, yes?

[Alex V]

I'm borrowing a vice block from a friend.

Isn't the buffer detent held in by the receiver tube? As you spin the tube out, it no longer partially covers the detent and the detent come out. That's how I've done it on all the other ARs I've worked on.

I'm going to try and get my hands on some Kroil and try that with the lower receiver vice block.

[MistWolf]

...As you spin the tube out, it no longer partially covers the detent and the detent come out. That's how I've done it on all the other ARs I've worked on...

Brain fart. You're right

[Alex V]

Brain fart. You're right

When you said that I nearly pooped my pants... "have I been doing something wrong this whole time?"

LOL

[BufordTJustice]

I'm borrowing a vice block from a friend.

Isn't the buffer detent held in by the receiver tube? As you spin the tube out, it no longer partially covers the detent and the detent come out. That's how I've done it on all the other ARs I've worked on.

I'm going to try and get my hands on some Kroil and try that with the lower receiver vice block.

I've used kroil to remove two A2's with good success. But i used a LOT of it. It stained my driveway. But it worked.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

[Alex V]

Got it done and could not be happier!

Used my friends Brownells lower receiver block, put a set of vice-grips on the A2 RE and attached a pry-bar to it and bang! Done!

Now it has a pinned MOE on a BCM RE, H2 buffer, Gunfighter CH and grip and feels like the best balanced AR I ever held. Puts my BM with Troy MRF rail right in the sh*tter, though that rifle is still my first love. Even feels better balanced than my fiance's LW 14.5" Centurian berreled AR with Troy TRX extreme.

Thanks for all the advice everyone! Looks like all I needed is the right tool and to grow a pair and apply some muscle to it.

Can't wait to shoot it, and can't wait for the spring to run it in a couple of classes.

[Iraqgunz]

Alex I assume you know that there is a proper wrench to use on the A2 tube and not vise grips. It's a slightly oval shape and can be found on the barre/ armorer wrench or a hammerhead wrench.