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Thread: Help removing A2 RE - LaRue PredetAR

  1. #1
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    Help removing A2 RE - LaRue PredetAR

    Ive waited nearly half a year for this rifle.

    It was shipped with an A2 stock cause I live in NJ. I'm trying to remove it and install a M4 RE and pin and MOE stock onto it but this damn A2 RE will not come off.

    A rubber strap wrench just turns without doing anything.

    Putting a wrench on the flat areas on the back just destroyed the aluminum.

    I heated it up over a stove but that did nothing.

    I am too afraid to put a direct flame on it. It's just too nice of a lower and frankly I'm scared to F it up.

    Am I missing something? Shouldn't this thing just twist out?
    I am part of that power which eternally wills evil, and eternally works good.

  2. #2
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    Despite being Saturday you could attempt to contact Larue. Maybe get lucky and hear back from them today.

    Sounds like you are doing everything correctly, if there is a thread locker on the RE that could be a PIA. Lefty loosey

    What about putting flame directly onto the RE and letting the heat soak towards the receiver thread. Also, since the RE is an inexpensive part, might be worth it to sacrifice it and twist it off with some channel locks??

    Good luck, it should just come off with reasonable pressure.

  3. #3
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    Will a direct flame damage the lower? The finish on the aluminum?

    I already removed the grip so I'm not worried about it melting.

    Just don't want to mess up this thing
    I am part of that power which eternally wills evil, and eternally works good.

  4. #4
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    I've used a small propane torch many times to remove Bushmaster extensions. They used red loc tite on them and the heat was the only option. Just make sure to remove the grip, any optics just to be safe and the spring and buffer. Usually about 10 seconds of direct heat all the way around did the trick.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex V View Post
    Will a direct flame damage the lower? The finish on the aluminum?
    As long as you keep the temps of the lower cool it won't effect the heat treat of the aluminum. Unfortunately, 7000 series aluminum starts getting weird around 300 degrees F which is the same temperature Loctite claims their 271 (RED) thread locker begins to "let go". But in reality, you shouldn't need to worry about that provided you don't throw a flame onto that bitch for the next 5 minutes

    That's why I was suggesting getting the flame on the RE (a few inches down from the lower) and letting the heat soak down to the threads and receiver. It will get the RE hot enough to deteriorate any thread locker quickly but will keep most of the heat out of the lower. It will also keep any discoloration off the lower. Just remember to rotate the flame around the RE tube as you go and you will be fine. This is the method I have used on firearms and machinery, it has always worked well.


    Just don't want to mess up this thing
    I don't blame you. It's a fine piece of firearm you got there.

  6. #6
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    Where you at in NJ? If needed I can help you out if you're just across the bridge somewhere.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bleaman225 View Post
    Where you at in NJ? If needed I can help you out if you're just across the bridge somewhere.
    I appreciate that but I'm about a 70 minute drive from Philly.

    I'll follow what bleaman said and hope for the best :-)

    Thanks for the help guys! Truly a great community here on M4C
    I am part of that power which eternally wills evil, and eternally works good.

  8. #8
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    Heat didn't work. Both indirect (on the RE) and direct (on the lower)

    Maybe I didn't get it hot enough but now the aluminum magazine that I was using as a lower receiver block is destroyed lol.

    I had emailed LaRue yesterday, hopefully will hear back tomorrow.

    This is really driving me crazy.
    I am part of that power which eternally wills evil, and eternally works good.

  9. #9
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    I mount my lowers in the vise it's self, with a piece of leather on each side. Then it might be time for big vise grips.

    I don't think a magazine holding will be enough to break it free.

  10. #10
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    I have had to hot form 7075T6 to remove dents from aircraft parts without cracking them. The tech manual states to use a heat gun and not an open flame because, if I recall right, the open flame can introduce carbon to the material and this is to be avoided. If I recall, it can cause embrittlement. I believe it also states that the material can be heated no more than three times and for only about 5 minutes for each attempt. I don't recall what the maximum allowable temp was, but I believe it was less than 300 degrees. Exceeding these limits could ruin the heat treat.

    What this means is please be careful to not damage your lower with the heat
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