Bow hunters...

[bgoode]

Invest in your local bow shop relationship. You will need that partnership when your bow isnt shooting like it should because it isnt tuned and fitted to you.

The bowshop will make sure you are set up and serve you when your bow needs re-tuned.

[southernZ]

Agreed with the guys above. Do not just go and buy a bow because of its brand. Shoot as many bows as you can and get one that "fits" you the best. And try not to get sold on to the "its a 330 fps bow" deal, speed is not everything. When shooting take mental notes of how loud each bow is, that is what counts. Also, plan on "growing" into the bow. Get whatever you can pull back comfortably from a sitting position using only your strong arm (ie. right side for a right handed shooter). The more you shoot the easier it will be to pull back. You can always set it heavier later on if you desire. All too often I see people pushing with the weak hand, and pulling with their strong hand. Imagine having to do that with a few old wise does on high alert at 20 yds. That will be much tougher than one fluid motion just using your strong arm. Compounds are a whole different ball game than traditional bows. Last season I did not touch my compound. I only hunted with my longbow. And man it took a while this past summer when I picked up my compound to get back in the groove. Good luck!

[J-Dub]

Well I found my shop in Ft. Collins. Should be able to get geared up next month.

[crossgun]

Ever think about a crossbow? If that might be on the table let me know I would be happy to help you out. I have been in the crossbow/archery industry for 25 plus years.

www.camxcrossbows.com

What all the guys are saying is spot on. If you have to start all over then visit the Pro Shop. Let me know your draw length in a PM. Maybe I can help you out with something used I have that will save you some money and allow you to get your feet wet while you figure out what you really like. Without starting somewhere there is no way to know what you want and dont want. Shooting a few arrows will not be the end all in selection.

Like ARs you can spend a little or a lot of money and drink the kool-aid. End of the day they all fling an arrows and fling bullets.

Its always the dude behind the trigger in the end.

[J-Dub]

I have no idea what my draw length is...

[dfbaseball]

Go to a reputable archery shop and get measured. Make sure you shoot the bows you're interested in too. If it were me, I'd go ahead and have someone measure your wingspan and divide it by 2.5 to get a spot check on your draw length before you go just so you don't get duped by someone. Unfortunately some people think they can just tell you the draw length you need when in reality it's all they have in stock and they're trying to make a buck.

[J-Dub]

My wingspan divided by 2.5 is 29.4. The "fist up against the wall measurement" is 27 3/4".

[$CashMoney$]

Stick with the "wingspan" technique. There may be some minor adjustments from there based on where / how you choose to index your release, but that will get you the closest measurement.

[Gutshot John]

Go to a Pro Shop, not Cabelas.

Nuff said right there.

[SIGFORALL]

60lb peak draw wieght is all you need for a hunting bow. Lots of nice new bows to choose from. Shoot as many bows as you can, take notes, go home, read notes, go back and shoot your top 2 or 3 bows, repeat as necessary. Your bowshop pro will GLADLY help you with this process. A new top of the line bow with accessories will cost you $1300.00 or more.

You can save a TON of money buying a used bow already set-up for 1/3rd the cost of new.

If I were shopping for a new bow I would shoot PSE, Hoyt, Bowtech, Mathews and Elite bows

http://www.hoyt.com/compound_bows/details/spyder+turbo

http://pse-archery.com/c/pro-series-...irected_post=1

Good luck, have fun!