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Thread: Question on Remington 700 Light Primer Strike

  1. #1
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    Question on Remington 700 Light Primer Strike

    Went out to shoot the rebuilt 700 PSS today, had the barrel cut down & a Smith Vortex Gemtech flash suppressor installed. Nothing was done to the trigger, stock was torqued down properly...new scope mount & rings were installed.

    Was about 40* out with a 30-50 mph wind, she was sitting outside for about 45 min before un casing & getting set up & then every single round I tried from surplus to PP to Black Hills match all had a very light primer strike.

    Last time I shot her has been a few years & it was very hot out, not a single problem & went bang every time...since then she has been sitting in the safe.

    Got home & took apart the bolt, she was clean, no gunk, no grease & no dirt or much grime, just a little lube.

    Am baffled, what could have caused her to have such light primer strikes that she would not fire?


  2. #2
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    Did they take the barrel out to cut and thread it?

    If so, I wonder if they checked the head space when they slammed it back together?

    Take your bolt out, and manually decock it to see if the firing pin is protruding properly.
    Greg Dykstra
    Primal Rights, Inc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by orkan View Post
    Did they take the barrel out to cut and thread it?

    If so, I wonder if they checked the head space when they slammed it back together?

    Take your bolt out, and manually decock it to see if the firing pin is protruding properly.
    They would have had to pull the barrel to do the work correctly. I would think that its a head space issue as well. Not safe to shoot to say the least. Return it to the smith and next time ask some of use for recommendations of rifle smiths.
    "After I shot myself, my training took over and I called my parents..." Texas Grebner

    "Take me with a grain of salt, my sarcasm does not relate well over the internet"

    Jonathan Morehouse

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    Quote Originally Posted by ICANHITHIMMAN View Post
    They would have had to pull the barrel to do the work correctly.
    That is not necessarily true. If a smith has the right lathe, it's very easy to get a concentric thread/re-crown job done without pulling off the action.

    Rampy, if you end up needing someone to straighten that thing out, let me know.
    Last edited by orkan; 01-21-13 at 20:10.
    Greg Dykstra
    Primal Rights, Inc.

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    Thinking back about it & looking at it now...seems like the back of the firing pin did not go as far down into the bolt body when pulling the trigger outside like it does in the house. Did not look when we got home, just googled how to take apart the bolt, found the shoe string trick & tore her apart......

    Dropped a 36" long piece of 3/16" dowel down the barrel, held the rifle vertical and pulled the trigger, the dowel would "jump" vertically 4-12 inches so I'm ASS-uming that there firing pin spring is still plenty strong and there wasn't any gunk within the bolt body or firing pin opening...

    This is how it was done, from a friend who was right there when it was cut:

    He pulled the barrel, rough-cut it to length with the bandsaw, then finish-cut it to final length and re-crowned it on the lathe. The only proper way to thread the barrel for eventual suppressor use was to put it between centers on the lathe and I watched him do just that. Take a look at the markings on the barrel--they're in the same position relative to the stock as they were from the factory so there's no way the tube could be a full turn tighter or looser than it was before getting chopped.

    Pulled the bolt apart & wiped down the inside with Q tips...quite grungy...then went back over everything with a nice thin/light coat of Slip 2000.

    Have been told that the firing pin spring weakens even if not in use and to go with a Tubbs CS.....since the rifle is 18 years old it's not unlikely the spring needs replacing....

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    Quote Originally Posted by orkan View Post
    That is not necessarily true. If a smith has the right lathe, it's very easy to get a concentric thread/re-crown job done without pulling off the action.

    Rampy, if you end up needing someone to straighten that thing out, let me know.
    Right lathe? It wont spin true
    "After I shot myself, my training took over and I called my parents..." Texas Grebner

    "Take me with a grain of salt, my sarcasm does not relate well over the internet"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rampy View Post
    The only proper way to thread the barrel for eventual suppressor use was to put it between centers on the lathe and I watched him do just that.
    That is a load of horse shit if I ever heard one. That isn't even CLOSE to being the best way to get it done. It sure is the fastest though.

    Quote Originally Posted by ICANHITHIMMAN View Post
    Right lathe? It wont spin true
    Yes, it will, provided you have the action clamped correctly. The only thing off center is the damn recoil lug. Hardly enough to cause a good lathe to wobble. This is purely academic however, since we pull every barrel out before threading unless the customer specifies otherwise.

    Rampy, I didn't realize we were talking about an 18yr old rifle here that you hadn't shot forever. Obviously yes, replace the spring and you'll likely be off to the races.
    Greg Dykstra
    Primal Rights, Inc.

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    Question on Remington 700 Light Primer Strike

    Quote Originally Posted by orkan View Post
    Did they take the barrel out to cut and thread it?

    If so, I wonder if they checked the head space when they slammed it back together?

    Take your bolt out, and manually decock it to see if the firing pin is protruding properly.
    Do you think that tightening the 700 barrel a little more or less than Remington does will actually change headspace enough to cause light strikes?
    I have rebarreled a bunch of 700's as well as removed and installed factory barrels.
    I have not found this to be the case.
    I have the gauges in 0.001" steps too so I'm not talking out of my backside...

    Or do you suppose someone "upgraded"their recoil lug while the barrel was out?
    Randall Rausch
    AR15 Barrel Guru

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    Question on Remington 700 Light Primer Strike

    Quote Originally Posted by ICANHITHIMMAN View Post
    They would have had to pull the barrel to do the work correctly.
    I can thread the muzzle on 20" or longer barrels without removing the barrel.
    I have a spider on the back of the headstock and a low profile spider on the front.
    Randall Rausch
    AR15 Barrel Guru

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AR15barrels View Post
    Or do you suppose someone "upgraded"their recoil lug while the barrel was out?
    was my first suspicion, but not a smith.

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