Fireclean with AR15

[Failure2Stop]

It does seem to stay on my Knights bolt group way better than my Colt. The Colt one just soaks it up quickly no matter how many coats?? But there is enough left on my receiver walls to have a little less friction than being dry.

Parkerizing soaks up liquid really well, and new bolt carriers will generally have a pretty aggressive parkerizing that will wear down with use.

FC seems to do a very good job even with a thin coat.

Please remember that when I say that I re-lube prior to shooting, I am talking about a drop or two on the bolt, and one on each "rail" of the BCG, and that the guns are being prepped to fire several hundreds of rounds while suppressed from 7.62 and 5.56 and I will not have the opportunity to check on them for hours at a time.

As far as not functioning if in immediate need: ARs can generally make it to 300+ with no lubricant at all. This is not due to friction or heat, but from fouling accumulation in conjunction with the above.
It does, however, raise an interesting question, so the next time I am at the range and have a few hundred rounds to waste (which is becoming less and less frequent), I'll wipe the operating parts "dry" (not degrease, just leave the film of FC on the parts) and see how long I can go before I get a fouling related stoppage.

[Marler5811]

I've been using FireCLEAN for about a year now. Personal Guns. Company Guns. Full Auto. Suppressed. I've used it a lot. I've been nothing short of impressed. Great lubrication properties and makes cleaning painless.

[jaybirdritenour2]

I hope that is the case. But it just keeps soaking it up. Put a ton on the Colt 3 times and its almost dry still. Wonder if it will seep out of the pores once I get it hot from shooting. I have yet to shoot the Colt with the Fireclean.

[jaybirdritenour2]

It does, however, raise an interesting question, so the next time I am at the range and have a few hundred rounds to waste (which is becoming less and less frequent), I'll wipe the operating parts "dry" (not degrease, just leave the film of FC on the parts) and see how long I can go before I get a fouling related stoppage.

That would be a good test. And yes my Colt has a very thick Park job so you are probably right.

[BTL BRN]

Since having switched to FireClean I am very impressed as well; and while I thought that the lubricant had migrated from being stored upright in my safe, a few rounds into the first magazine and my carrier was nice and wet. I am not sure if there is a similar phenomenon as Frog Lube, but it seemed whatever lube had "dried out" came back in a hurry.

[Wake27]

I hope that is the case. But it just keeps soaking it up. Put a ton on the Colt 3 times and its almost dry still. Wonder if it will seep out of the pores once I get it hot from shooting. I have yet to shoot the Colt with the Fireclean.

Have you fully degreased it as was talked about a page or two ago?

[jaybirdritenour2]

Not yet. I will next time I shoot with it. Haven't shot for a few weeks. But I did use the frog lube spray cleaner last time and it really seemed to dry out the metal. It almost acted like it had rubbing alcohol it. Unless there was some hiding in the pores, because it was bone dry to the touch.

[ABNAK]

Is hard chrome a surface that can absorb FireClean? i.e. a hard chromed bolt.

Absolutely, somewhat, or not at all?

[Failure2Stop]

Is hard chrome a surface that can absorb FireClean? i.e. a hard chromed bolt.

Absolutely, somewhat, or not at all?

I think that the perception of metal absorbing a liquid is a bit off.
Under magnification, machined metal will show imperfections at the surface. FC gets into these little imperfections when it is coating the rest of the part, and wherever is covered will resist carbon adherence and growth. I haven't seen any proof that any fluid can penetrate into metal beyond a surface coating.
After continued use, it seems to me that the residual FC is coating the part, including nickel boron and hard chrome, as long as they are thoroughly degreased.

Typos brought to you via Tapatalk and autocorrect.

[Chorizo]

No metal "absorbs" lube. The lube fills and occupies the pores on the surface of the metal. The more porous it is, the more lube that will be retained on the surface. (parkerization = more pores; chrome = less pores). If you cleaned it "dry" then there will be more empty pores to occupy, requiring more lube. It also doesn't dry, then re-hydrate upon shooting. It may be in the pores and gone viscous, then become liquid with the heat, thereby weeping from the pores and appearing as if from nowhere, but that isn't magic.

In my long association with weapons, I have stuck with Breakfree CLP since it was introduced to the Marine Corps sometime in the early 80's. I found it effective as a cleaner/lubricant/preservative (CLP) and have not, until now, found anything that would shake me from its use.

Enter FireClean. This stuff is amazing as a cleaner/lubricant (CL) and for frequently used firearms, shot often, then cleaned after each use. It is the best stuff I have found and I have given most of the other stuff a try. I use it on my sidearms that I shoot almost daily and the wipe clean and lube makes it ideal. For my long guns, (not suppressed) cleanup in the field is equally as easy.

Hunt AK 's review matches my experience and is an excellent write up.

http://www.thealaskalife.com/guns/fireclean-gun-oil/

I still use BreakFree CLP for external wipe-down and areas of non-moving parts for the preservative function. Just call me a dinosaur.