First Build, 14.5" Technical Questions

[Cumminspowa]

Hey ya'll, I've spent the last 6 months reading about AR's and I feel like I have a pretty good grasp on what I want. Ive decided to build a 14.5" with a permanent flash hider. So I have a couple questions pertaining to that.

I know to make a 14.5" legal it has to have a pinned and welded flash hider, j have a Vortex flash hider with some predrilled holes that I plan to use. To be legit do I need one pin into the barrel with a tack on it or does it need to use two? The Vortex came with two holes that are about .125" in diameter. And does the actual pin need to be of a certain material, or is a piece of 7018 welding rod sufficient?

Also I'm planning on cutting the FSB down so It's low profile, I'd like to run a free float rail, I think I have decided on a Midwest Industries 12". But I don't know if I should go with a one piece or two piece, do you guys have any suggestions? I was looking at the Gen II MI-T12G2 or MCTAR-22G2...

I was planning on using a BCM carbine lightweight, but have since found ADCO selling a 14.5" lightweight with cold hammer forged CL Daniel Defense barrel, would this be a good choice? Or would sticking with a BCM be a more wise move?

I appreciate the help and am glad I've join this forum, thanks

[Iraqgunz]

I will reiterate what I have said time and time again. Be 100% sure that you want the flash hider and the rail of your choice. Once it's done it is expensive to undo.

What components specifically do you already have?

[Ryno12]

One pin should suffice. I built a 14.5" BCM & used a Gunfighter Mod 1 comp with a single pin. I also used a standard barrel nut. My thought was that I'd have more options down the road in case I ever decided to change up the rail. For now, I've got an MI two piece rail on it.

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[jaxman7]

Just a suggestion. You may want to purchase a rail that uses the stock barrel nut. This way at least if you want to change things up you will be able to use all handguards that don't use a proprietary nut. I have a 14.5 DD with a permed BCM Comp. Just today I swapped a MOE handguard for a Centurion on that rifle. As IG said though, think long on what you want. Being new to this I would recommend a 16". As far as barrels go it's a win win.

-Jax

ETA: Ryno, sorry I basically just repeated what you said.

[Cumminspowa]

Iraqgunz- So far the only thing I have for the upper is the Vortex flash hider. I will be ordering the rail next so that once I have the upper I can go ahead and spend an afternoon and have it completely assembled minus the bcg and CH, with pinning and welding the flash hider first of course.

That's a good point to use the original barrel nut that I hasn't thought much about, with that being said I guess ill use the MI two piece.

Ryno12- what type of material did you use for the pin? I was doing some more digging around and found some suggestions to use pins made from drill bits. Is that what you would suggest?

[jaxman7]

Iraqgunz- So far the only thing I have for the upper is the Vortex flash hider. I will be ordering the rail next so that once I have the upper I can go ahead and spend an afternoon and have it completely assembled minus the bcg and CH, with pinning and welding the flash hider first of course.

That's a good point to use the original barrel nut that I hasn't thought much about, with that being said I guess ill use the MI two piece.

Ryno12- what type of material did you use for the pin? I was doing some more digging around and found some suggestions to use pins made from drill bits. Is that what you would suggest?

Drill bit will work fine. That's what I used. Can't remember the size.

-Jax

[Tzed250]

Drill bits are hardened tool steel, a material that doesn't weld well and if you decided you wanted the FH changed the drill material is very hard to cut. I would use 1/8" cold drawn 1018 or 1045 round stock.

[justin_247]

If this is your first time doing this, I highly recommend you just buy the upper already constructed to your specs by a respectable builder (think Rainier Arms, Gun Gallery Jax, or ADCO), or one pre-built close to your specs from BCM, DD, or Noveske.

[Ryno12]

ETA: Ryno, sorry I basically just repeated what you said.

No problem bud.

Ryno12- what type of material did you use for the pin? I was doing some more digging around and found some suggestions to use pins made from drill bits. Is that what you would suggest?

My BCM comp came with a pin so that's what I used. I'm not sure what type of metal they use but I TIG'd mine & it puddled instantaneously. I'm assuming it's of the SS variety but I don't know what type.

I personally wouldn't use a drill bit but if Jax was successful using one, it must be possible. You'll have to get his input on that. If I needed to make a pin, I'd just get an 1/8" piece of stainless from work.

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[Cumminspowa]

As much as I would love just buying one built how I would like it, I'm not one to drop that kind of cash on something I can make myself. I'm not in a huge rush so I have a lot of time to complete the project.