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Thread: Current production S&W M&P's (Update)

  1. #211
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    The FS 9 I just got feels real good, but I want to lighten the trigger pull and shorten the reset some.


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    Sic semper tyrannis.

  2. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by RWH24 View Post
    The M&P I got from Grant at Christmas still had some grunge after he polished it. I changed to the APEX USB, and grunge is gone.

    I'm having a 9L done by Grant now with APEX USB, Sear and Poly Trigger. Should be great.
    IMHO, changing out the SB with the Apex USB makes the biggest difference because of its shape and spring tension.



    C4

  3. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devilneck View Post
    For the M&P9 that I recently purchased, I'm not even going to install the Apex parts that I have in my parts bin from older M&Ps that I sold.
    Probably don't want to install older Apex parts. Quotes from an inquiry I sent to them in an email:

    I purchased a relatively newly manufactured M&P 9FS and I am wondering if there would be any problems
    installing an older Apex hard sear in it. I know there have been some changes to the M&P’s design, so
    I don’t know if perhaps the newer hard sears have been changed as well.


    The answer is we did change the sear a little bit to stay current with S&W tolerance changes. We keep improving our products to stay as up to date as possible with the changes Smith implements. We always suggest installing the newest model.
    “All falsehood is a mask, and however well made the mask may be, with a little attention we may always distinguish it from the true face.”

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  4. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    IMHO, changing out the SB with the Apex USB makes the biggest difference because of its shape and spring tension.



    C4
    That's exactly what you told me and danged if it didn't work. Just like you said.
    POW-MIA, #22untilnone
    Let Us #NeverForget!


    If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong.

    The last thing I want to do is hurt you,
    but it's still on my list.

  5. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by RWH24 View Post
    That's exactly what you told me and danged if it didn't work. Just like you said.
    I generally know what I am talking about (at least with the M&P).




    C4

  6. #216
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    I got and installed the new slide stop assembly on my M&P. The reset is VERY noticeable now. It's like night and day. As I have a FSS installed, I didn't get any of the other new S&W parts to update my M&P.

    Definitely worth the $15 upgrade from G&R. I'm almost considering getting a new FS M&P to leave stock too... S&W is definitely doing things right now.

    The trigger pull on my FSS'd M&P9 still seems a bit "squishy" compared to, say, a Geissele SD-E. How do you lighten a FSS'd M&P trigger pull? Use CompAEK springs?
    Last edited by Koshinn; 04-17-14 at 09:14.
    "I never learned from a man who agreed with me." Robert A. Heinlein

  7. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koshinn View Post
    I got and installed the new slide stop assembly on my M&P. The reset is VERY noticeable now. It's like night and day. As I have a FSS installed, I didn't get any of the other new S&W parts to update my M&P.

    Definitely worth the $15 upgrade from G&R. I'm almost considering getting a new FS M&P to leave stock too... S&W is definitely doing things right now.

    The trigger pull on my FSS'd M&P9 still seems a bit "squishy" compared to, say, a Geissele SD-E. How do you lighten a FSS'd M&P trigger pull? Use CompAEK springs?
    Are the internals polished?



    C4

  8. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by C4IGrant View Post
    Are the internals polished?



    C4
    No. Polishing them will make the trigger pull crisp or lighten it or both? What do I have to polish?
    Last edited by Koshinn; 04-17-14 at 09:57.
    "I never learned from a man who agreed with me." Robert A. Heinlein

  9. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by Koshinn View Post
    No. Polishing them will make the trigger pull crisp? What do I have to polish?
    It can make for a crisper release (as edges are cleaned up). It will also drop around half a pound pull weight.

    This is what we polish:

    1. Sear (front engagement edge to the trigger bar loop), rear.
    2. Trigger bar striker block engagement area and loop. We also time the loop to the sear. Side of trigger bar is ground smooth on a stone and then polished (where it interfaces with the frame).
    3. Striker Block (to include the sides where it rubs inside the slide).
    4. Striker (where it rubs on the sides of the slide) and front edge where it engages the sear.





    C4

  10. #220
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    Apr 2012
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    That's why I patiently wait while you work your magic on my M&P.
    POW-MIA, #22untilnone
    Let Us #NeverForget!


    If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong.

    The last thing I want to do is hurt you,
    but it's still on my list.

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