The FS 9 I just got feels real good, but I want to lighten the trigger pull and shorten the reset some.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The FS 9 I just got feels real good, but I want to lighten the trigger pull and shorten the reset some.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sic semper tyrannis.
Probably don't want to install older Apex parts. Quotes from an inquiry I sent to them in an email:
I purchased a relatively newly manufactured M&P 9FS and I am wondering if there would be any problems
installing an older Apex hard sear in it. I know there have been some changes to the M&P’s design, so
I don’t know if perhaps the newer hard sears have been changed as well.
The answer is we did change the sear a little bit to stay current with S&W tolerance changes. We keep improving our products to stay as up to date as possible with the changes Smith implements. We always suggest installing the newest model.
“All falsehood is a mask, and however well made the mask may be, with a little attention we may always distinguish it from the true face.”
State of Franklin Training Group
I got and installed the new slide stop assembly on my M&P. The reset is VERY noticeable now. It's like night and day. As I have a FSS installed, I didn't get any of the other new S&W parts to update my M&P.
Definitely worth the $15 upgrade from G&R. I'm almost considering getting a new FS M&P to leave stock too... S&W is definitely doing things right now.
The trigger pull on my FSS'd M&P9 still seems a bit "squishy" compared to, say, a Geissele SD-E. How do you lighten a FSS'd M&P trigger pull? Use CompAEK springs?
Last edited by Koshinn; 04-17-14 at 09:14.
"I never learned from a man who agreed with me." Robert A. Heinlein
It can make for a crisper release (as edges are cleaned up). It will also drop around half a pound pull weight.
This is what we polish:
1. Sear (front engagement edge to the trigger bar loop), rear.
2. Trigger bar striker block engagement area and loop. We also time the loop to the sear. Side of trigger bar is ground smooth on a stone and then polished (where it interfaces with the frame).
3. Striker Block (to include the sides where it rubs inside the slide).
4. Striker (where it rubs on the sides of the slide) and front edge where it engages the sear.
C4
That's why I patiently wait while you work your magic on my M&P.
POW-MIA, #22untilnone
Let Us #NeverForget!
If I agreed with you, we'd both be wrong.
The last thing I want to do is hurt you,
but it's still on my list.
Bookmarks