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Thread: H vs. H2 vs. H3 buffers

  1. #1
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    H vs. H2 vs. H3 buffers

    What's the difference other than the weight ofcourse? How do you know which one to use?

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    I don't think there is any difference other than weight. As far as deciding which one to use, I would use the heaviest one that allows your rifle to still cycle completely and reliably. I like the heavier weights because it makes the rifle recoil softer and allows easier follow up shots.

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    i normally pick the heaviest one that will still cycle WOLF reliably and lock back on the last shot.

    I take 20 mags, and load them all with ONE round. run through that cycle a few times, and you can be reasonably certain that the rifle will function correctly with that particular buffer.

    HOWEVER. keep in mind, that when the rifle gets hot and dirty, you then may start experiencing short strokes with a heavier buffer.

    SO, whatever the heaviest buffer that will reliably lock back on the last round, fully cycle........EVEN when using UNDERPOWERED ammo (wolf) and with a dirty action.


    THAT is the buffer you want. a proper weight buffer will minimize battering of the parts, soften recoil impulse, improve follow up shots, increase dwell (hense increasing accuracy, and minimizing chamber blowback).....etc.

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    Good advice here.
    I have 3 SBRs (10", 11.5" and a 12.5") and run H2s with them. I experimented around with different ones and these had be best feel and still worked with weak ammo.

    My Colt with PWS piston kit feels best with a Enidine buffer hydraulic buffer followed closely by a H2 buffer. With a H it feels weird is the only way I can describe it. With and H3 if feels like more linear recoil almost like shooting buckshot through a 20ga, very weird.
    FFL/SOT armorer

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    i am running an rra 9mm buffer in my pws 10.5

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    The difference is weight. The result for the shooter is that it affects the feel of the recoil impulse.

    Just after I got my 1st AR together (16" mid-length) I went shooting with a knowledgeable AR guy who brought along a selection of buffers. I tried H, H2, and a 9mm. Allowing for the fact that recoil is subjective, to me, with the 9mm buffer the rifle barely twitched. Conventional wisdom seems to be that you use the heaviest buffer you prefer, which which still cycles Wolf reliably.

    I fired Wolf and Prvi 55gr. with the 9mm buffer and everything seemed in order. I plan to give myself a little margin and use the next step lighter than that, which would be an H2.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Raiden View Post
    The difference is weight. The result for the shooter is that it affects the feel of the recoil impulse.

    Just after I got my 1st AR together (16" mid-length) I went shooting with a knowledgeable AR guy who brought along a selection of buffers. I tried H, H2, and a 9mm. Allowing for the fact that recoil is subjective, to me, with the 9mm buffer the rifle barely twitched. Conventional wisdom seems to be that you use the heaviest buffer you prefer, which which still cycles Wolf reliably.

    I fired Wolf and Prvi 55gr. with the 9mm buffer and everything seemed in order. I plan to give myself a little margin and use the next step lighter than that, which would be an H2.
    No, next step lighter than the 9mm would be the h3

    Car std 3.0oz
    Car H 3.8oz
    Car H2 4.6oz
    Car H3 5.4oz
    RRA 9mm 5.6oz

  8. #8
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    My mistake -

    I had mentally counted H2 as the next step down, since the difference between H3 and 9mm is so small, and H2s seem to be more widely available than H3s.

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    Thanks! You guys have been a huge help. Will probably get an H2 or all three and sell off the ones that dont work for me

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    Where is the best place to buy new buffers and springs?

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    Quote Originally Posted by morebullets View Post
    Where is the best place to buy new buffers and springs?

    Brownells sells Chrome Silicone buffer springs that are standard weight. CS springs are supposed to last longer than a normal spring. Some people use a spring that is stiffer than stock, but on my midlength rifle the stiff springs dont cycle low powered ammo like wolf very well.

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    Does it matter who makes the buffer?

    H2 buffers are available online in several flavors - made by Colt ($60), made by CMT ($30), made by unknown ($29.95 at Bravo Company), et cetera. How you'd tell them apart, I don't know, but I'm guessing the difference for the Colt is mainly for people who insist on these things? Or has the Colt buffer gone through a rigorous testing process involving being laser-measured, x-rayed, thrown off a cliff, run over by a tank, and jumped up and down on by Privates 1st Class in all weather conditions, and that's why it costs double?

    Bravo Company says theirs is a standard USGI part, implying it's military spec. No maker was specified but they do make their own rifles and everybody who's handled one thinks they're awesome. And here, I doubt Grant would sell the CMT buffers if they were shit... So I'm thinking I'll just save myself $30 and go with one of those...

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    Quote Originally Posted by morebullets View Post
    Where is the best place to buy new buffers and springs?

    Bravo Company.
    "As a member of the House Intelligence Committee, I am keenly aware that the proliferation of chemical and biological weapons is an issue of grave importance to all nations. Saddam Hussein has been engaged in the development of weapons of mass destruction technology which is a threat to countries in the region and he has made a mockery of the weapons inspection process." -- Nancy Pelosi, December 16, 1998

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    with a 10.5 (mk18) setup i found the h2 to cause problems from time to time. IF you are running F/A i would recomend an H3 buffer. i got a AAC (a kinda counter weight thingy) buffer, so far no problems. i half to admit i havent done a beta dump(s) with it yet. (thats one way of telling if it will fubar on you) my rate of fire was off the chart so i went with a reducer..

    i did have some short stroke issues with my factory mp15t with some ammo (i think i put the wrong hammer springs back in. i changed out my springs and to a H buffer for more compression. works like a raped ape now.


    my 2 cents.

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    whats best for a 14.5 with a F/A bcg? or is it different for every rifle?

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    Quote Originally Posted by spike View Post
    whats best for a 14.5 with a F/A bcg? or is it different for every rifle?
    It depends on your barrel and the gas hole size, some are larger than others, also the ammo makes a diffrence too, I would try an H and H2
    and make sure your bolt locks back on the last round.

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    MK18 type 1: NSWC assembled carbine with contracted and /or overhauled parts complete with all accessories to current standards at time of build will work with H or H2 and could have shipped with either. Units will balance buffer to ammo requirements:
    H okay with M193/M855. (all ship board MK 18’s should have H buffers as this was the standard at the time of assembly).
    H2 needed for MK 262/ R2LP & will run M193/M855.
    H3 may be needed for an extreme cases or when the gas port is eroded but the barrel still groups.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alaska3006 View Post
    H3 may be needed for an extreme cases or when the gas port is eroded but the barrel still groups.
    I know those aren't your words, but Gas port erosion doesn't change gas flow. The top of the port stays the same diameter as the bore area tear drops out.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  19. #19
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    Last edited by markm; 07-02-14 at 12:45.
    "You people have too much time on your hands." - scottryan

  20. #20
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    You do realize that this thread is 6 years old right?

    Quote Originally Posted by Alaska3006 View Post
    MK18 type 1: NSWC assembled carbine with contracted and /or overhauled parts complete with all accessories to current standards at time of build will work with H or H2 and could have shipped with either. Units will balance buffer to ammo requirements:
    H okay with M193/M855. (all ship board MK 18’s should have H buffers as this was the standard at the time of assembly).
    H2 needed for MK 262/ R2LP & will run M193/M855.
    H3 may be needed for an extreme cases or when the gas port is eroded but the barrel still groups.





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