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Thread: 50 yard accuracy

  1. #1
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    50 yard accuracy

    I've been doing a drill when I go to the range to try and get myself more accurate while in the standing position. The rifle I'm using is a Colt 6920 with an Aimpoint Pro. It is zeroed to 100 yards, using the 25yd to 100yd zero target I found on this site. The ammo is Wolf Gold 55gr. I'm shooting at a BC-27 target at 50 yards. The drill I've been doing is starting from the low ready with the weapon on safe I raise the rifle, take it off safe and fire two rounds as quickly as I can, put it back on safe and return to the low ready position and repeat. My emphasis is more on accuracy than speed. This drill is done from the 50 yard line.
    My question is if 25% of my shots are in the 9 ring, 50% in the 8 ring and 25% in the 7 ring am I an average shooter or am I horrible? I know I have room for improvement, one thing that really bothers me is the sway of the red dot, is there something I can do to minimize this? I try not to jerk the trigger when the dot gets on target but I find it hard to keep it from swaying so much.

  2. #2
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    If youre referring to the side-to-side wobble, ignore it. The more you shoot, the less it will be noticeable. Based on what you described, your shooting sounds decent.

    Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    You really need to get personal training or experience in the shooting sports.

    Getting a more relevant target will help a lot.
    I like 5x8 and 3x5 cards.

    Accuracy must be kept to 100% with a carbine. Work on presentation (time to go from your ready position, flip to fire, land sights on target, and deliver a hit) on large and small targets at close and long range. Build from rapid presentation into rapid multiple shots on target.

    It isn't about blindly pulling the trigger twice, it is about getting fast sighted hits as fast as possible, hit after a hit.
    Jack Leuba
    Director of Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

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    Thanks for the input. I'm not blindly pulling the trigger, what I meant by as quickly as I can I mean as quickly as I can reacquire the target. I am attending a formal class this summer, that is why I've been concentrating on the basics of shooting the carbine, I don't want to show up and be behind the learning curve. Any further tips or advice is appreciated, thanks.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacoops View Post
    Thanks for the input. I'm not blindly pulling the trigger, what I meant by as quickly as I can I mean as quickly as I can reacquire the target.
    Then why 2 shots?
    Why not 3, or 5, or 10, or all 30?

    Recoil control benefits from a long string under tight time pressure.
    While 2-shot neutralization rules are present in many gun games, they aren't all that applicable to much else.
    Have you checked out the "Favorite Drills" sticky in the Training and Tactics sub-forum?

    One of the first things to do is to identify your minimum target zones and do not use a target larger than that. You either get your hits or fail. No points for a close miss.

    I am attending a formal class this summer, that is why I've been concentrating on the basics of shooting the carbine, I don't want to show up and be behind the learning curve. Any further tips or advice is appreciated, thanks.
    Good!

    Most important: have a REAL zero, not just the "I shot at 25 on this piece of paper, so it should be close enough...", but actually get out on the range at the actual distance and work on precision.

    After that, work on recoil control in conjunction with presentation. Accuracy without time is virtually meaningless. Check the drills, figure out what you can do on your range, and use your ammo to your greatest benefit.
    Jack Leuba
    Director of Sales
    Knight's Armament Company
    jleuba@knightarmco.com

  6. #6
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    The reason for the two shots is to train myself to acquire the target quicker through repetition of raising and lowering the rifle. Also to get repetitions taking the gun of safe and back on safe.

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    I will check out the drills sticky and see what I can do at the range I go to. It is pretty restrictive on what can be done.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacoops View Post
    The reason for the two shots is to train myself to acquire the target quicker through repetition of raising and lowering the rifle. Also to get repetitions taking the gun of safe and back on safe.

    Sent from my LG-LS720 using Tapatalk
    Failure2Stop is spot on - shots 4,5,6 is where things begin to fall apart.

    You can do the acquiring the dot f/c manipulation drills dry.

    Develop a rock solid, safe, "I'm beginning dry-fire" protocol that you NEVER deviate from as well as an "I'm done dry-firing" protocol that you NEVER deviate from. Use the search forum if you need to figure out what a good protocol is.

    You can make a training mag for fail to fire, fail to feed, stoppages by removing the follower and spring from a mag - if you want to add some weight you could - then when you bring it up, stabilize, press, and practice immediate action.

    I think working that way will give you a good result. Use a 3X5 card or, if your garage is big, a #10 envelope.

    If you have a 2-4 MOA rifle, 50 yard groups should be from 1 to 2 inches - doubling that if you are standing unsupported is probably within reason. What we don't know is how big your dot is. And that also makes a difference.

    Let's make sure we are talking the same thing - the B-27 is an NRA PPC Silhouette Target, it has an X, 10, 9, 8, and 7 ring - the 10 ring is about 4 X 6, the outside dimensions of the 9 ring are about 8 x 12 and the 8 ring outer dimensions are about 12 x 18; I assume a reduced B-27 would be about 1/2 that - I also assume that is what you are shooting. If 25% of your shots are 'in' the 9 ring, you are shooting into, I assume, approximately a 4X6 area with 25% of your rounds, and overall putting 75% of your rounds into an approximate area that is 6 x 9.
    Last edited by 26 Inf; 04-06-14 at 19:00.

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  10. #10
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    One thing to work on/experiment with is your presentation speed. New shooters often move the weapon as fast as they can in their efforts to speed up their shots. After a point this becomes counter-productive. A typical, loaded carbine weighs around 8 pounds. It takes as much energy to bring it to a stop as it takes to get it moving. If you move the weapon too quickly and bring it to an abrupt stop while attempting to aim, you'll either waste time waiting for the sights/red dot to settle or you'll rush a less accurate shot (or both). A smoother acceleration curve (smoothly getting the weapon moving from ready and stopping it on target) results in faster, more accurate shots. The trick is to find your ideal "sweet spot." I find a shot activated timer to be indispensable for serious training. Add a steel target to the mix (so you can get instant feedback) and you'll have the tools to really push your training.

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