Why add a QD slot if you're trying to make the lightest possible lower?
Why add a QD slot if you're trying to make the lightest possible lower?
C co 1/30th Infantry Regiment
3rd Brigade 3rd Infantry Division
2002-2006
OIF 1 and 3
IraqGunz:
No dude is going to get shot in the chest at 300 yards and look down and say "What is that, a 3 MOA group?"
The lightweight lower doesn't have QD...
“The rifle itself has no moral stature, since it has no will of its own. Naturally, it may be used by evil men for evil purposes, but there are more good men than evil, and while the latter cannot be persuaded to the path of righteousness by propaganda, they can certainly be corrected by good men with rifles." - John Dean "Jeff" Cooper, The Art of the Rifle
Why the KNS-like trigger pin retainer look?
"People have always been stupid. The Internet just makes it easier for us to know about them." - donlapalma
Why not? I've always said there are 5 groups of people they effect.
1. They effect the guys who just want to use mil-spec and the last time I checked, KNS pins do not hold a mill spec.
2. The next guy who will never use them is because he has heard from others throughout the industry forums that they are not needed at all or only if you're going to run full auto.
3. These guys will use them because they look cool. They don't really understand how they work or when they're needed most.
4. These guys use them because they've had at least 2 pins start to walk. After checking to make sure everything was installed correctly. After conforming they feel that the next option would be KNS pins.
5. People who purchased 80%ers that came either anodized or coating with a color. After completing the 80%er, they figure their FCG holes are less likely to egg out if the don't have pins constantly rubbing against the bare aluminum.
Just use whatever you think gives you the best set up. Its your rifle and you can make the decision through research.
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Sounds like a reasonable answer. But I'm curious as to why they didn't go with a wider profile which would better accommodate both the thinner and wider KNS retainers.
Sent from my piece of s**t phone using Tapatalk2 (which can be equally unreliable when coupled with a junk phone)
"People have always been stupid. The Internet just makes it easier for us to know about them." - donlapalma
Folks, I am affiliated with the company. I do not however have the ability to sell or conduct business on M4carbine yet. I don't know to what extent I am allowed to answer questions because of that, but I could answer any questions you may have if it is in fact allowed.
Paying extra for a billet receiver is bad economy. Forged receivers are stronger
Welcome to the forums!
Put to whom and how your affiliated in your signature, give the mods a courtesy call which should allow you to answer questions. Then, put on your asbestos longjohns and strap in for a rollercoaster ride through Flaming Hell. It will be tough to sell most of the members of this forum on something just because it's new. The company and the product has to prove itself before it becomes accepted. The rule of thumb is "Shoot the Rifle" before passing judgement but the product has to offer something.
For example, the 2A lower is cut from a billet. It is known that AR receivers cut from a billet isn't as tough as a forged receiver. the billet piece has all it's grains running fore and aft and parallel to each other in the raw material. When the pockets for the magazine and trigger are machined out, the grain is interrupted, weakening the material.
A forging means the raw material is formed under pressure while in it's plastic state. The grains follow the new form. Yes, some are cut during the final machining process but more follow the form. Some of the grain is compressed, increasing the strength as long as the forging process does not create granular inclusions. (This is why AR receivers are forged from 7075 instead of 6061. Early receivers were forged from 6061 but that alloy is susceptible to granular inclusions which cause severe corrosion).
Hawking a product made using a process that produces a weaker part then weaken it further lightening cuts it and charge two to three times more than the stronger product to save just a few ounces is going to be tough job. Paying $480 for a billet upper & lower compared to roughly $200 for a quality forged upper & lower is bad economy
Last edited by MistWolf; 06-08-14 at 21:37.
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