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Thread: How do YOU sharpen your knives

  1. #31
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    I use an old Spyderco Sharpener I've had for years.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBid View Post
    Not my experience at all. I have used a Sharpmaker and strop (grey and green compounds) to maintain Elmax, CPM S30V, and CPM S35VN. I touched up my ZT 0566 (Elmax) a few days ago and after about 20 feet of cardboard, 30 zip tie press cuts, and slashing about 15 feet of vinyl, foam, and seam threads, it still goes through paper like a laser.
    well I'm not the expert who said this but understand, he does know what he's talking about. not saying you're wrong, it will make the knife seem very sharp initially or at least until those carbites break off. none of the materials you mentioned cutting seem like a real test of a blade's durability. try carving some wood with that and see how it holds up.

    and it's altogether possible that your knife was not "dull" to begin with. if it picks back up with just a stropping, that's a sign of a good steel. and despite people saying that the super steels are harder to sharpen than a common steel, that's why I use them - the edge doesn't degrade to the point that they need to be actually resharpened as quickly...
    never push a wrench...

  3. #33
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    I use both the Lansky system and the Spyderco Sharpmaker. And I also prefer to strop my knives to maintain the edge.

    I typicaly use the lansky for plane edge knives or something with a simple design. For knives with recurves and such like my ZT 0200 (or anything designed by Ken Onion for that matter) I use the Sharpmaker because it is easier when dealing with the constatnly curving blade shape.


    You can't go wrong with either of these systems they are very afordable and pretty idiot-proof.

  4. #34
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    The Spyderco Sharpmaker is an excellent system for maintaining or reconditioning edges, but it does not do well bringing very dull edges back or re-profiling them. Note I did not say it wasn't possible, just that it does not do it very well (even with the diamond rods). The Worksharp, Edge Pro, and Wicked Edge can all create excellent edges and are good at maintaining, re-conditioning, and re-profiling edges. Unfortunately all three of these systems require space, are bulky, and generally are not easy to use on the fly. All of these aforementioned systems have a learning curve and limitations regarding the size of the blade (try sharpening an axe with the edge pro or wicked edge). I have several of these systems, as well as a few others not mentioned...they each have served me well, and still do for certain tasks. After trying all of these, and mastering them, I have found that freehand sharpening is more rewarding, more convenient, more versatile, easier to use anywhere at anytime, and forces you to truly understand the geometry of an edge. Does it require a learning curve...yes, but then so do each of these other systems. What you learn freehand can be applied to ALL of the other systems, and makes them more effective. Does freehand require a ton of stones? This depends on your goal...I can use 3 stones to go from completely dull to mirror polished edge that will glide thru phone book paper...with all sorts of steel (S30V, 154CM, Elmax, Niolox, 5160, 8cr13mov, sandvik, sleipner, etc.). I actually own 5 stones and a strop, and all of the stones have lifetime warranties and are guaranteed not wear down. These stones are less expensive than waterstones, tougher than arkansas stones, and in the event I need to be able to sharpen on the move I can maintain any edge with one (I would not have a mirror polish but it would still be far superior to any factory edge). I use a combination of DMT and Spyderco stones. These stone perform well, and the scratch patterns are incredibly consistent.

    I'm not saying my method is for you, and that it is superior. I'm merely pointing out that your tool is only as good as the user, and even if you have the best, most expensive system, you will need to master it. I can sharpen better with all of my systems now that I can freehand. I also have found that my freehand edges are easier to control the loss of metal during sharpening....I lose less and still get the edge as good or better than any of the systems. You can acquire and edgepro or a wicked edge basic systems from $200-300, or all of my stones and a strop for well under $200.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by ra2bach View Post
    well I'm not the expert who said this but understand, he does know what he's talking about. not saying you're wrong, it will make the knife seem very sharp initially or at least until those carbites break off. none of the materials you mentioned cutting seem like a real test of a blade's durability. try carving some wood with that and see how it holds up.

    and it's altogether possible that your knife was not "dull" to begin with. if it picks back up with just a stropping, that's a sign of a good steel. and despite people saying that the super steels are harder to sharpen than a common steel, that's why I use them - the edge doesn't degrade to the point that they need to be actually resharpened as quickly...
    Fair response. As a general rule, my blades never get really dull. I use blades frequently on the types of materials listed above, so I am motivated to maintain edges, and prefer steels that retain well while also being maintenance friendly.

  6. #36
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    Wicked Edge sharpener. 8 levels of diamond stone, 4 levels of ceramic, 4 levels of stropping, ending with a sub micron stropping compound. Produces repeatable mirrored edges that you can shave with.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by DevL View Post
    Wicked Edge sharpener. 8 levels of diamond stone, 4 levels of ceramic, 4 levels of stropping, ending with a sub micron stropping compound. Produces repeatable mirrored edges that you can shave with.
    That sounds just like my procedure. And I maintain on a flexxx strop quad strop with 3 compounds and 1 finishing side

  8. #38
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    Sep 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett Kastl View Post
    I like the Lansky knife sharpener. Simple and easy, not too expensive.
    I've been using a Lansky set for years. That and an old leather belt that I turned into a strop. I'll probably get a worksharp for the convex grind blades I have. The strop works good only for touch ups if the edge is already sharp.
    I'm a lead farmer motherf**ker! - Kurt Lazarus

  9. #39
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    Spyderco tri sharpmaker. Gets everything sharp enough to split frog hair.
    Experience: that most brutal of teachers. But you learn, my God do you learn.
    C. S. Lewis

    Yes I even own the Magpul iPhone cover. Wanna make something of it?

  10. #40
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    I use the sharpener from my wife's knife block in the kitchen.

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