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Thread: Refinishing my Bolt... It was stripped down to bare metal.

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    Refinishing my Bolt... It was stripped down to bare metal.

    I placed my Bolt from my savage model 10 in the ultra sonic cleaner for 30 mins. I took it out and it was stripped completely of the finish down to bare metal. I have since soaked it in fireclean to keep it from rusting until I figure out the best way to refinish it.

    So I put 1/2 oz of Hornady gun parts cleaner, 1 tsp of lemi-shine, and 24 oz of hot water in the industrial ultra sonic cleaner for 30 min with the bolt. It was shiny when I took it out 30 mins later. So to my question, What is the best way to refinish the bolt to keep it from rusting? I want a finish on there to keep it from rusting, Im not looking for a response of "just keep it oiled".

    Ive tried the "instant gun blue" and even with oil on the S&W revolver I refinished it still rusted in one month. Any Ideas? I would like to refinish it myself.

    Last time I cleaned the gun I used Hoppe's #9 solvent/cleaner and some got on the plastic stock and that removed the camo pattern paint from savage. So I am not sure if this is poor finishing on savages part, or it could be the harsh cleaners, and probably part to do with my own stupidity. Either way I now have an excuse to repaint it my own camo pattern.

    I am not gripping about the finish being stripped off, I just need to know the best way to refinish it.



    Last edited by ace4059; 07-28-14 at 16:46.
    Quote Originally Posted by Outlander Systems View Post
    In 2014, a RDS and a WML are pretty much mandatory for a defensive long-gun.

    Lights are way easier to fire up than NODs when rolling out of bed.

    Quote Originally Posted by SJC3081 View Post
    You should have your balls removed for posting such stupidity. This is not the other site...

  2. #2
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    Cerakote is the best option. Take it to an approved applier. It is the best corrosion resistant finish out there and when properly applied is extremely thin.
    I paint spaceship parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Stippled Glocks are like used underwear; previous owner makes all the difference in value.

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    Quote Originally Posted by VIP3R 237 View Post
    Cerakote is the best option. Take it to an approved applier. It is the best corrosion resistant finish out there and when properly applied is extremely thin.
    +1....
    "I would rather be the hammer than the anvil."- Rommel

    Owner: Hangar 18 Custom Coatings

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    Quote Originally Posted by VIP3R 237 View Post
    Cerakote is the best option. Take it to an approved applier. It is the best corrosion resistant finish out there and when properly applied is extremely thin.
    Which board members are approved appliers? I am looking to do a rail

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    Quote Originally Posted by steyrman13 View Post
    Which board members are approved appliers? I am looking to do a rail
    You could send it to me, my shop does a lot of cerakote. PM if you are interested.
    I paint spaceship parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
    Stippled Glocks are like used underwear; previous owner makes all the difference in value.

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    I hate to say it, but I dont think this gun is even worth it to have anything on it cerakoted (money wise).

    Any idea on the cause of the finish to be stripped off?
    Quote Originally Posted by Outlander Systems View Post
    In 2014, a RDS and a WML are pretty much mandatory for a defensive long-gun.

    Lights are way easier to fire up than NODs when rolling out of bed.

    Quote Originally Posted by SJC3081 View Post
    You should have your balls removed for posting such stupidity. This is not the other site...

  7. #7
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    If you haven't found a solution yet, I can finish it. I use both Cerakote H and KG GunKote at my shop (the Cerakote is tougher, but the GunKote makes for a glossier, more traditional look, and isn't weak by any means).

    I can also blue it - the right way. Traditional hot salt or nitre blue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ace4059 View Post
    I hate to say it, but I dont think this gun is even worth it to have anything on it cerakoted (money wise).
    You asked for the best method of refinishing to keep it from rusting, and didn't want "just keep it oiled," and your question has been answered very accurately. Have you even priced the cerakoting?

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    The amount of lemishine is way excessive for 24 ounces of water you could use a 22lr case of lemishine. For over a gallon of water I use 4 9mm cases full. Im not sure if it is what caused the finish to strip, but you dont need much of it.

    To get the bolt cerakoted should not cost much and you will know its taken care of. There are not many options for doing it yourself that are going to be cheaper than sending it out for cerakote.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 40Arpent View Post
    You asked for the best method of refinishing to keep it from rusting, and didn't want "just keep it oiled," and your question has been answered very accurately. Have you even priced the cerakoting?
    I was looking for something I could do myself since no shop here in town does cerakoting and the only gun shop here is high priced on any work they do. I just hate to send it off. I might call around and get a price quote on having it done. Something else I was thinking about is the bake on gun kote.


    Quote Originally Posted by jstone View Post
    The amount of lemishine is way excessive for 24 ounces of water you could use a 22lr case of lemishine. For over a gallon of water I use 4 9mm cases full. Im not sure if it is what caused the finish to strip, but you dont need much of it.

    To get the bolt cerakoted should not cost much and you will know its taken care of. There are not many options for doing it yourself that are going to be cheaper than sending it out for cerakote.
    It's the second time I used lemishine on a gun and it will be the last. The first was a ruger but it did not strip the finish on the pistol.
    Last edited by ace4059; 08-09-14 at 14:26.
    Quote Originally Posted by Outlander Systems View Post
    In 2014, a RDS and a WML are pretty much mandatory for a defensive long-gun.

    Lights are way easier to fire up than NODs when rolling out of bed.

    Quote Originally Posted by SJC3081 View Post
    You should have your balls removed for posting such stupidity. This is not the other site...

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