Surefire Light Upgrade

[Long Range Trigger Monkey]

So I’m currently using two older Surefire lights as weaponlights that have incandescent bulbs and I’d like to upgrade them to LED’s. I don’t use the weaponlights often but I’d like to know I have more than 65 lumens in case I have to light something up at the edge of my property or in my home, heaven forbid. I’m currently looking at a couple of options, both would keep the costs right around where I want to be, about $200, as I’m currently putting more priority on ammo for range time and matches.

Option #1:
Gun 1 – Upgrade Surefire M951 with KX4 head and HSP MIL620 Keymod mount
Gun 2 – Upgrade Surefire G2 with KX4 head, use existing offset mount.
Option #2:
Gun 1 – Replace Surefire M951 with Surefire G2X Tactical in Odinworks Keymod Light Mount
Gun 2 – Replace Surefire G2 with Surefire G2X Tactical in existing offset mount.

The G2X lights do have more lumen output compared to the KX4 but I’m not sure that is necessarily a good thing, sometimes more is simple more…not better. This was further reinforced after I watched a video that Travis Haley did regarding his Inforce WML, while a product piece it still brought up some good points. Surefire doesn’t recommend the G2 or G2X to be used as a weaponlight but it’s been done for years without many issues so I’m not really worried about that. 320 lumens versus 120 lumens seems like a no brainer but I’m just not so sure.

What are some of your thoughts and opinions?

[SeriousStudent]

I am a real fan of Gene Malkoff's LED replacements in a Surefire.

http://www.malkoffdevices.com/

I have one in Surefire 870 light, and two others in 6P handhelds that used to have incan bulbs. They are very reliable, and have a great flood for a room or other enclosed space. You can get ones that have more throw.

[Long Range Trigger Monkey]

I have considered the Malkoff Devices drop ins but my understanding is that the M951 lights require modification to make them work. I'd rather avoid this and would like to keep the upgrades same/same between the two rifles.

[Just Prince]

Some have to be modified some don't. I have a 951 with malkoff drop in and all I needed was a beryllium spring washer.

[Long Range Trigger Monkey]

I'll try to give Malkoff a call and see what they have to say. At this point I'm more keen to upgrading the lights that I already have versus replacing them with new ones.

[Outlander Systems]

I'll try to give Malkoff a call and see what they have to say. At this point I'm more keen to upgrading the lights that I already have versus replacing them with new ones.

Replacement may be cheaper in the long run.

You can pick up a P2X for right at $100. It will blow the socks off of the M952.

I tried upgrading the M952 with a P60L, and then a KX4 before selling the Weaponlight.

They are built like tanks, but they are seriously eclipsed, performance-wise, by the newer models of SF's lights.

From my experience, giving up the IR capability of the original Incan bulb wasn't worth the extra lumens. I'd have been better served either keeping the light, without attempting an upgrade, or just replacing it with an M952V.

YMMV

[JBecker 72]

EMP, lol.

I'll stick with the better performing LED lights that hold up in day to day use and perform way better than incandescent.

[markm]

Keep the incans. Go to SBflashlights and buy some 1 mode Solarforce P60 clones. You can get a complete for like $35... then if you don't like the switch, you can get a surefire clicky for $29 later.

I run some of the stock switches, but a few of them weren't momentary, so I had to hold my nose and buy a few surefires.

[Shao]

My advice: get an 1 cell E series body and put a Malkoff E1 LED bezel on it - way lighter than your other options.

The KX4 head is great but only 120 lumens. The Malkoff drop-ins will work with the Z32 bezel that comes standard on the M951 but the Z32 is a shock isolated bezel. Shock-isolation is only required for incan bulbs. You will actually lose a lot of heatsinking if you use one without modification (IE - copper tape around your Malkoff until it fits snugly in the body and a foam or silicone rubber spacer ring at top) - this is more trouble than it's worth unless you just like the way the Z32 looks. You could drop a Z44 (6P, C2, etc..) bezel on it with the Malkoff and would save a lot of weight and size. If you'd like a Malkoff drop-in but smaller body, buy an E series body, an E2C adapter, then thread your KX4, Z44, or Z32 onto the body. Just make sure you get the right mount. Do NOT just drop in an LED drop in into a Z32 shock-isolated bezel. Your LED module will have improper heatsinking and may die on you prematurely. Another option is to get an E series body and use a Valiant Concepts Malkoff bezel that attaches directly to the body but allows full-size Malkoff drop ins.

I stopped running 2 cell weaponlights after I had a nightmare that I was in a firefight in pitch blackness and my light died on me. I kept fumbling and dropping cells and inserting them in backwards (it was a dream). Also, mismatched cells can cause a kabloom in your battery compartment. Since then, I like to be able to just unscrew the bezel and drop one battery in - something easily accomplished in the dark with minimal training.

FYI: I run 1 cell E series bodies with Malkoff E1s or Valiant concept bezels with M31s on my serious guns and Inforce WMLs on my toys.

[markm]

Also, mismatched cells can cause a kabloom in your battery compartment.

It's nice to have a ZTS battery tester and check your batteries for even juice periodically.

Everyone should have a ZTS... if only to check batteries in your smoke detectors.