Quote Originally Posted by Failure2Stop View Post
300 meters, point of aim/point of impact.
100 meter zero makes it hard to put the laser on target past 200 due to drop, and the realistic limit of NODs/lasers is under 300 meters.
Having the laser offset and lower than the familiar sight-line of normal optics and irons forces re-training anyway, so the difference in zero distance is minimal.
Having the crossover at 300 minimizes the offset issue out to 600, but if you're good, you can offset the laser from the group at 300 by the lateral distance from the bore to the laser emitter. This keeps the trajectory parallel to the laser, eliminating the offset crossover issue, but it really doesn't matter since everything will more than likely be kept under 200 meters anyway.
Having a 300 meter zero makes it easier to have something to hold on, since the ground is almost always available for those 175-275 shots on small targets close to the ground.

During zeroing, use a black matte target, larger than the diameter of the laser at the distance, regardless of what distance you choose. It will make zeroing much easier as it will reduce on-target bloom and allow greater precision and consistency in point of aim.

The easy way is to take a zeroed optic out to 300 (or whatever you decide), and with a buddy, hold the dot of the optic on the point of aim needed for center impacts and adjust the laser to fall onto the point of impact. From there, refine the zero with live-fire using the laser.
We zeroed a DBAL-D2 this weekend using this method, took a bit of work but we got her steady @300 after about 30sh rounds. US Optics SR8 on 8x mag and a good tripod. Patience is key. Have the D2 mounted @ 12 o'clock.