Gas Block Loose Around Barrel

**markm** · 09-12-14, 08:33

Originally Posted by Shao

Please elaborate markm, I'm running three Seekins forged lowers and all have been 100% perfect. I did a Google search and could turn up nothing.

Magwells were tight on many of them. They did repairs on these for people. I didn't send mine in because their repair was pretty crappy... file and paint it from what I saw. Also the buffer detent holes aren't right on mine. The RE will just barely hold the detent down. I can also turn the RE another full rotation, but then it's too far into the receiver.

Little stuff that irritates me... and why I'm very picky about selecting a stripped lower anymore.

**Shao** · 09-12-14, 08:53

Interesting... I must have gotten mine from a different batch... My Seekins forged lowers actually drop mags better than any of my others.

**SilverCat** · 09-12-14, 09:06

That is strange. I was under the impression that they were very high quality. I did a build a little while ago using one of their proprietary uppers and the keymod rail to go with, and it's a great set up.

But I agree with you markm about the little things.....
Nothing really gets me more than an out of spec part that causes issue.
Sort of like another build I did forever ago that I'm trying to fix right now, I just can't isolate the issue.

I think in the end, I'll try keeping the barrel and the GB because a couple of you guys recommended it. I'll pick up some green loctite to go with.

**ROTAM** · 09-12-14, 09:17

OP: its hard to say without having your parts in hand, but the set screw should tighten it down. I prefer the clamp on blocks.

**MistWolf** · 09-12-14, 11:02

Originally Posted by Shao

As Grant and others have pointed out - green loctite or even staking the screws would probably be a good idea. If you go the loc-tite route, you should be sure to have a dremel in your toolkit in case you ever want to change the GB out and strip your set screws.

Green Loctite isn't used on the screws, it's used between the gas block and barrel. Loctite also makes a primer that's applied before the green Loctite

**SilverCat** · 09-12-14, 11:19

Originally Posted by MistWolf

Green Loctite isn't used on the screws, it's used between the gas block and barrel. Loctite also makes a primer that's applied before the green Loctite

Is there a particular reason not to use it on the screws, but on the GB instead??

**MistWolf** · 09-12-14, 12:14

Green Loctite has the added feature of being a wicking threadlocker and is best used on parts that are pressed together or have a close fit. It will wick to coat the entire surface and fill in the nooks and crannies. It can be used on screws, but it's a medium to high strength thread locker. Combine that with it's wicking properties (it will flow to coat the whole of the threads) and you'll have screws that are particularly hard to remove. You don't want to use a thread locker that makes it impossible to remove the fasteners without damaging them. You just want to keep a properly installed fastener from vibrating loose. That's why blue Loctite is a better choice for firearms than red.

It's also why anti-seize is sometimes a better choice than using an anaerobic adhesive (which is what Loctite threadlocker is). The anti-seize reduces the stiction between the threads so a true torque can be achieved while protecting the mating surfaces from corrosion.

If installing the gas block with Loctite, use green between the block and barrel and either stake the set screws, or install them with purple or blue Locktite