Plates for class

[sua175]

OP, with a 550 per plate budget look at some velocity systems level IV stand alones. You can get them in SAPI or shooter cut. I would not even bother with steel due to the many reasons that are posted above. Quality ceramic plates will beat ar500 steel overall, bottom line. If anyone tells you different then they do not know what they are talking about. Also get a quality carrier (I Like First Spear) to hold your new 350 buck plates.

[Appalachian]

Single curve hasn't bothered me at all. I wish I could say I've tried triples for reference, but I have not done so yet.

Single curves work just fine, but the fit / ride is a more comfortable with the triple. Either the 10x12 triple curve or a standard SAPI cut (for all practical purposes is a multi curve plate).

[Appalachian]

I've been reading through old post about what would be the best solution for a civilian who wanted to protect themself in shoot house classes. There are several threads with detailed info but generally are a few years old. So I'm more interested in identify time tested and gold standard solutions. What is the current recommendation(s) for an individual that prefers a durable, budget friendly solution that will protect from 5.56 M193 & M855, 7.62 M80, and AK rounds at CQB distances. Plate size preference is 10"x12".

Order of importance:protection (most likely threat) should be first in the list
Durability. this is overstated and misunderstood in our community. Ceramics are more durable than they are portrayed in some circles. Reasonable care and storage when not in use will allow your plates to provide literally a lifetime of service. The "end of the world" fantasies we read about....being in running gun battles and sustaining multiple plate hits are just that (from my perspective).
Spall protection. another term that has been over used with the increased popularity of by steel as armor. Spall is when primary armor such as the inside of an armored vehicle is fractured and turns into smaller projectiles that can penetrate. Not an issue with UHMWPE (poly) or ceramic plates. Actual performance against the round would be of greater concern as a selection criteria
Cost. armor is a balancing act. Start with your realistic requirement (most likely, not ALL threats) and then balance that protection with weight/thickness, cost, and durability. Weight/thickness and cost are always at odds with one another. .
Weight see above
For your shoothouse requirement a ceramic plate that meets the threats you outlined would be prescribed. Plenty of proven options out there that are in the 6-ish lb range that meet your requirement. An 8lb plate gets old in a hurry. But an 8lb plate that a shooter wears is still better than the 4lb plate that he wont buy due to cost. Hope this helps.

See embedded above

[Grizzly16]

Armour Wear looked promising to me as well, then I asked them few questions. They responded to all questions except my request for NIJ reports. So I emailed them again and I have not heard back. I passed on them and just bought some plates from HighCom Security level 4 plates which were cheaper and lighter. I used code:armor ended up paying $253 delivered.
I read everything I could on plates for the last month and I think I made a good decision.

David W.

I used the contact form on their webpage about 8 am today. Just got an email with the level 4 certification that it stopped 1 round of 30-06 ap as expected. The date for the test was 01/06/2014. Maybe you caught them at a busy time?

[markm]

Single curves work just fine, but the fit / ride is a more comfortable with the triple. Either the 10x12 triple curve or a standard SAPI cut (for all practical purposes is a multi curve plate).

I can't wait to try some triple curves.

[Wake27]

SAPIs are considered multi-curve?

[Jim D]

OP, with a 550 per plate budget look at some velocity systems level IV stand alones. You can get them in SAPI or shooter cut. I would not even bother with steel due to the many reasons that are posted above. Quality ceramic plates will beat ar500 steel overall, bottom line. If anyone tells you different then they do not know what they are talking about. Also get a quality carrier (I Like First Spear) to hold your new 350 buck plates.

Why should he want a Level IV plate instead of a 3+?

[Jim D]

SAPIs are considered multi-curve?

Yes, as they taper from top to bottom in addition to side to side.

[kaltesherz]

Why should he want a Level IV plate instead of a 3+?

Versatility- you never know what someone's going to shoot you with. M2 AP used to be fairly common, and at some point M855A1 will be seen stateside and therefor be "acquired" and on the streets.

[Appalachian]

SAPIs are considered multi-curve?

You wont hear them referred to as such, but a true SAPI (unfortunately many will refer to ANY plate as a "SAPI" ...but that is a specific protection level and cut/ curve) is a multi curve design. A SAPI or a SAPI style cut plate is curved along the vertical axis. the top 1/3 or so is also "tilted" inward along the horizontal axis. The vertical plane is curved / bowed slightly inward at the bottom to accommodate the torso. A triple curve simply adds a more aggressive curve or flare on these bottom edges. A triple curve will almost always be a 10x12 plate.