What does "government profile" mean to you?

[C4IGrant]

I guess I'll pull the gas block off and take a couple measurements. I had figured they knew what they were doing when they assembled it but someone could have screwed up. Torque values (not measured, just what it took to loosen) varied significantly on the 8 handguard screws, so there could be other issues. I suppose it might not be a bad idea to check the barrel nut torque either. With this upper there's no need to torque to the next tooth, so what torque value should I use?

Were the screws loctited on??

Never assume.

I like to stay at 60 or less (40lbs if your rail has anti-rotational tabs).



C4

[C4IGrant]

No...I don't do 10x30Rd mag dumps. I just lean towards a thicker barrel vs. a skinny barrel. Genetic preference I guess.

What does having more weight at the END of the barrel do for you if you don't mind me asking?

C4

[C4IGrant]

Yeah...I guess it doesn't matter for civys that just shoot paper. Clarify this for me...does "light weight" = pencil skinny or consistent medium size barrel for the full length?

LW and Pencil are typically the same animal. The weight at the end of the barrel really just offers more fatigue for the shooter (when holding) and doesn't move as well when driving between target to target.


I ran my BCM ELW-F (lightest "pencil" barrel out there) through Defoor's carbine class (shot out to 300yds) with no issues.



C4

[WS6]

LW and Pencil are typically the same animal. The weight at the end of the barrel really just offers more fatigue for the shooter (when holding) and doesn't move as well when driving between target to target.


I ran my BCM ELW-F (lightest "pencil" barrel out there) through Defoor's carbine class (shot out to 300yds) with no issues.



C4

I think that some weight out front aids in stability. You will note that most of the "game guns" are 18". You will also note that the Tavor isn't exactly tearing 3-gun up. Same with $100,000 shotguns. Barrels don't need to be long to throw a good shot-pattern. They could be shorter if it were better, less weight out front. It's a fine balance, and depends on the REST of the weapon, as well.

[C4IGrant]

I think that some weight out front aids in stability. You will note that most of the "game guns" are 18". You will also note that the Tavor isn't exactly tearing 3-gun up. Same with $100,000 shotguns. Barrels don't need to be long to throw a good shot-pattern. They could be shorter if it were better, less weight out front. It's a fine balance, and depends on the REST of the weapon, as well.

Depends on what your are doing. The easiest way to show what weight does to the end when swinging through multiple targets is to put a suppressor on the end of the gun. Do something like an El Prez drill. Use a timer of course to check the differences. Then go to a LW barrel and do the same. The ability to stop something that is heavier (at the end) is much hard than something that is lighter. I have ran the numbers and I am faster with a LW barrel than I am with a heavy one.

Most 18" barrels I see ONLY come in SS. They are naturally heavier as you cannot make a thin SS barrel and not have issues.

Shotguns are their own animal and you cannot make a short, light SG (at all) so you are stuck with them as they come.



C4

[Junkie]

Were the screws loctited on??

Never assume.

I like to stay at 60 or less (40lbs if your rail has anti-rotational tabs).



C4

I didn't see any loctite. I was planning on using a little when reinstalling. Not sure which variety is best, I inherited a pretty good selection though.

The rail mounts to the receiver itself.



The close to round extension that the rail mounts to is part of the receiver. The barrel nut threads into that. In this case, the barrel nut has nothing to do with holding the rail. I suppose that means I should torque it to 40 or so. Thanks for the help.

[C4IGrant]

I didn't see any loctite. I was planning on using a little when reinstalling. Not sure which variety is best, I inherited a pretty good selection though.

The rail mounts to the receiver itself.



The close to round extension that the rail mounts to is part of the receiver. The barrel nut threads into that. In this case, the barrel nut has nothing to do with holding the rail. I suppose that means I should torque it to 40 or so. Thanks for the help.

I use green UNDER the GB (just a little will go a long way). You can use rockset or anything that will handle higher heat for the screws.

Usually the manufacturer will state a torque value so I would check with them.


C4

[henschman]

I used a YHM low pro gas block on my last build, and it was centered on the port when it was all the way against the barrel shoulder.

[Cumminspowa]

The laws of physics says otherwise.

The government profile isn't the most efficient use of material, but it's not disastrous either.

The advantages of the SOCOM barrel profile aren't just about mag dumps and full auto fire

Another advantage would be less poi shift when using a suppressor if you have one. I went with a genuine Colt 14.5 Socom for my first build, at only 1 oz heavier than the standard M4 profile 16" I don't see any downside to the thicker profile.

[C4IGrant]

Another advantage would be less poi shift when using a suppressor if you have one. I went with a genuine Colt 14.5 Socom for my first build, at only 1 oz heavier than the standard M4 profile 16" I don't see any downside to the thicker profile.

That's because you cut 1.5" off the barrel!


If there is a slight POI shift, you probably wouldn't notice (especially when you consider that most people shoot 4MOA ammo, use a 2-4MOA dot and cannot shoot any better than 5MOA at 100yds).



C4