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Thread: .223 Resizing Problems

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by STAMarine View Post
    Do those gauge measure in a different manner that the Dillon case gauge that I used? I used the gauge after I ran it through my (obviously incorrectly set) resizing die. So when I ran it through, I just decapped and didn't size at all since it was incorrectly set, right?
    Watch this, it explains how to use it:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-UrMTyJ1_E

    You could try a sharpie on the shoulder with your current die setting like they did in the video. That should tell you immediately if the shoulder is contacting the die at the top of the stroke. Personally, I would much rather have a hard measurement with the Hornady gauge, but it should give you a general idea of what's going on inside the die. Those drop in gauges are fine for bulk ammo, but typically, I trust this gauge a lot more.

    FYI, every case will not measure exactly the same. There will be some slight deviation, but I would say no more than .003"-.004" or so. I like my precision ammo ~.001" deviation on the headspace, but I'm pretty anal about this kind of stuff.
    Last edited by Onyx Z; 10-31-14 at 12:40.

  2. #12
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    If his case heads are falling below the cut out on the dillon case guage they are being over sized. The dillon guage has a flat top with a small step machined into it. The case head shood fall below the top, but should not be below the step that is machined into it. From what he is stating it is below the step machined into the guage. That would indicate over sizing. If he set up the dies according to the directions I can almost guarantee they have the shouder pushed back to far. It is so easy to explain how this works in person, but over the Internet it is troublesome.

    It is easier to use your calipers for checking the case to see if it needs to be trimmed. It works the same though, but to make it easier on yourself use your calipers.

    Like onyx said do not worryabout trimming right now just focus on the sizing aspect.

    The #1 qustion is: when you put the case into the guage is the case head falling below the low spot? If yes the shoulder is pushed back to far.

    If the case head is sticking out above the guage you have not sized enough. If it is falling below the high step, and above the low step. Your set up just right.

    When I say the low step, im talking about the slot thatis milled out. The high step is the top of the guage.
    Last edited by jstone; 10-31-14 at 18:03.

  3. #13
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    OK, now I understand. And I need to back my die out and adjust accordingly. Like I said, newb. But I'm learning. Thank you.

  4. #14
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    Its no big deal I could tell from what you were saying you needed to back off the die. I used the dillon for the semis, and hornady for everything else. It is just hard to explain over the internet. Plus if you set the dies by the instructions, your usually bumping the shoulder back by around .006 or more.

    After you back the die out make very small adjustments, to get the brass to fall in between the high and low step. The hardest part is explaining what I call the high and the low step.

    Now forget about using that guage to tell you if you need to trim or not. Just set your calipers to 1.760, and tighten the screw that locks in the length. Now if they wont fit between the calipers trim them. Or lyman makes a guage called the E-ZEE CASE LENGTH GUAGE. It has roughly 80 very popular case all in one guage and its like ten bucks. It makes checking case length very easy.

    I hope some of this helps. If you dont have the abc's of reloading get a copy. I have been loading for more than half my life, and I still read parts on occasions.
    Last edited by jstone; 10-31-14 at 20:51.

  5. #15
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    And now a follow up. Backing out adjusted the base of the case properly. Now I'm unsure about the case mouth. lake City and Winchester brass is either sized to the correct length or needs trimming. However, ALL of my Federal cases are below the cut out of the gauge. How big of a deal is this?

  6. #16
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    I'm guessing you don't have a set of calipers, so what I'd recommend is to stop doing anything more with brass until you get some calipers so you can measure your brass length. You got to have the tools for measuring before you should ever do anything more to brass besides de-priming.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiskey&beer View Post
    I'm guessing you don't have a set of calipers, so what I'd recommend is to stop doing anything more with brass until you get some calipers so you can measure your brass length. You got to have the tools for measuring before you should ever do anything more to brass besides de-priming.
    You are correct. I went ahead and ordered a set after reading your post.

  8. #18
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    Ok good deal! Now I have no idea how close a hardware store is to you but they all quality calipers in case you hate the wait of mail order. After getting them and getting some numbers on your brass, ask away - there's some guys on this forum that know their shit and are pretty good at explaining how to process some good ammo!

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstone View Post
    After you back the die out make very small adjustments, to get the brass to fall in between the high and low step. The hardest part is explaining what I call the high and the low step.
    It's also a good idea to take a 5 piece sample when you think you've hit your setting. Brass springs back differently. I've driven myself nuts setting the sizing die. Get the average of 5 or so pieces to fall in between the high/low, and you won't have to mess with the die for a long time.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  10. #20
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    Now that you have calipers on the way, just use them to tell you whether or not you need to trim or not. Use the case guage for setting up your dies.

    Whiskey&beer is dead on with the recommendation on getting calipers. They are mandatory.

    As far as your federal brass being sized more than it should. It shouldn't cause you any problems. Just size them in the future to fit the gauge. It is possible to have a separation, but it shouldn't happen unless you continue to size them to much. Federal brass is not the best to begin with, and your primer pockets will be shot before you have a seperation. Even if you have a seperation its no big deal. If you load long enough you will have one. I have even had case head seperations from new factory ammo.

    Since you are new to loading do yourself a favor and pick up some wolf or tula primers. The wolf small rifle magnum or tula small rifle magnum. They are cheap, and perform better than primers that cost twice as much.

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