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Thread: Rainier Arms/Knights Armament SBR 300blk

  1. #1
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    Rainier Arms/Knights Armament SBR 300blk

    I figured for a first post I should post my latest (and favorite) build.

    COMPONENTS:
    I really am a fan of Rainier Arms products, specifically their guarantees and lifetime warranty on many of their parts. I also appreciate their generous military/LEO discounts that they offer as well as developing new parts rather than ripping off current designs. Being prior USMC I also have a strong appreciation of Knights Armament and their bulletproof products. I have used several of their offerings through eight years in F.A.S.T. and never experienced a failure or mishap. I am a fan of the buy once cry once mantra and Rainier Arms and KAC certainly fit that profile. As far as the barrel, I figured if AAC developed the round I ought to use their barrel and gas block system. Not too mention I was reading nothing but glowing reviews on both accuracy and durability. I am aware AAC sells uppers or even the MPW which is very similar to what I put together, however it was cheaper to go this route rather than buy and replace components (i.e. muzzle brake, grip, stock, etc.). It also didn't hurt that I got to support Rainier Arms and gain their warranty on some of the parts.

    CALIBER:
    I built this with the intent of being light and compact; something I can take camping with the family as well as a hog duty. The appeal of 300blk grew on me more and more as I researched it and felt it would fit my needs the best. When I learned about its quietness suppressed and the fact I can switch between subs/supers and suppressed/un-suppressed with no gas adjustments...that sealed the deal.

    MISC:
    There is a shop local to me in Manassas, VA called Virginia Arms Co. I can't say enough good things about these guys. I brought my upper components in because I lacked the barrel vice necessary to torque the comp to spec. The armorer there not only did an awesome job shimming the muzzle device, he also re-assembled the upper because he had a specific vice that would accommodate the URX rail and did a better job. The kicker...after 20min of labor he didn't charge me! Needless to say I use them exclusively for FFL transfers and will be using them for future NFA needs as well.

    Everything went together without a hitch and it has really opened the door to NFA products for me. I was a little intimidated by the whole trust, tax, wait process and not really sure where to begin. Luckily I read many posts and threads on this site and it made it a very simple process. I efiled and was fortunate to get approval rather quickly. I am currently pending on a SDN-6 for it so hopefully that will come sooner rather than later...I just received an email from my SOT that said "come get quiet" so I'm hoping that means my stamp came in lol.

    Upper
    Rainier Arms upper receiver
    Rainier Arms phosphate bcg
    Rainier Arms raptor charging handle
    AAC 9" barrel system
    AAC brakeout comp
    KAC URX 8" rail
    KAC micro buis

    Lower
    Rainier Arms lower receiver
    Rainier Arms buffer tube assembly
    Stag LPK
    KAC ambi safety
    KAC vert grip
    KAC trigger guard





    As far as accuracy I just wanted something simple and consistent out to around 200yds. I opted for a 25/150 zero with supers utilizing the buis, this would give me virtually no more then 2" spread at 25-150ish, and a max of 5" at 2-250.

    Initial Zeroing @ 25yds (sitting)


    Couple of "Failure to Stop" Drills @ 50yds (standing)


    100yds "Slow Fire" (standing)


    All in all I am pleased with the results. I am/was using Freedom Munitions 150gr reman rounds and experienced no issues whatsoever. I am going to pick up an Aimpoint H1 and zero that for subs. My goal is to have a sight system for both rounds that requires no further adjustments for the distances I'll be shooting. I wish I had more rounds but my range was closing and I literally had like 30min to zero and test out the rifle at various ranges.

    Thanks for reading!
    Last edited by sidewaysil80; 10-31-14 at 18:52.

  2. #2
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    You should try mounting your light at 12 o'clock and see how that works for you.



    Owner/Instructor at Semper Paratus Arms

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  3. #3
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    Very nice! Great write-up too

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    You should try mounting your light at 12 o'clock and see how that works for you.

    Yep. It works, and you won't notice the sight length difference.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    You should try mounting your light at 12 o'clock and see how that works for you.
    Quote Originally Posted by Hemoglobin View Post
    Yep. It works, and you won't notice the sight length difference.
    You know, I tried it just to see how it feels but didnt put any rounds downrange. Where it is now its incredibly easy to hit the switch with my thumb while holding the vert grip. I suppose I can give it a try again this time incorporating toggling the light with live fire and see how it feels. Is there a particular benefit or positive to keeping it up top vice the side?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidewaysil80 View Post
    You know, I tried it just to see how it feels but didnt put any rounds downrange. Where it is now its incredibly easy to hit the switch with my thumb while holding the vert grip. I suppose I can give it a try again this time incorporating toggling the light with live fire and see how it feels. Is there a particular benefit or positive to keeping it up top vice the side?
    It's fully ambidextrous that way. Also if you can point the barrel at it you will have light. Where as with it on one side or another you can have barriers interfere, specifically at the 90 degree locations.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemoglobin View Post
    It's fully ambidextrous that way. Also if you can point the barrel at it you will have light. Where as with it on one side or another you can have barriers interfere, specifically at the 90 degree locations.
    Ahhhh, that makes sense. Thanks for the tip, I'm def going to give it a try.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iraqgunz View Post
    You should try mounting your light at 12 o'clock and see how that works for you.
    I tried mounting the TLR-1 like OP has at 12 o'clock and it took up too much of my BUIS sight picture. I switched the streamlight out with an Inforce WML and that worked better. However, the Inforce takes up more rail space. YMMV

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sidewaysil80 View Post
    Ahhhh, that makes sense. Thanks for the tip, I'm def going to give it a try.
    I mounted my x300 in front of my Daniel defense and it blocks hardly any of your front sight picture and the switch is easily accessible. It's a bit pricey but you can push foreward on the toggle for momentary and slide it up and down for constant on. It's a bit pricey but it's bright as hell at 500 lumens and completely ambi. Just another option for you.
    Last edited by cagekicker; 11-15-14 at 22:50. Reason: horrible spelling

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