Starting to Reload - Equiptment Questions

[Tigereye]

I bought a $40 tumbler kit with media and it's still going after 5 years. I have the 550 also. I got a digital scale from either Dillon or Brian Enos (don't remember). A friend from church helped me set mine up to reload .45acp. Maybe someone in your area can give you a hand. Also, the Dillon instructions are very helpful, but if you get stuck with anything, call their customer service. I've called them with some dumb questions and they have always helped me.

[markm]

If you plan to use your 550b to prime brass I would suggest getting a cheap single stage press and a Lee Universal Decapping Die to remove old primers before you run the brass through your dillon. Depriming on the dillon lets lots of carbon fall right onto the primer bar and eventually it will plug up and cause problems. That said, just hand prime your brass, it is less hassel and you will not ruin as many primers.

I agree 100%

[nova3930]

I've got one of these for my lee single stage that works really well when prepping brass to run through the progressive.

http://leeprecision.com/safety-prime...and-large.html

[Co-gnARR]

I agree 100%

+2.
I use a Hornady Lock n Load single stage press to decap the brass, and have a Lee factory crimper ready for those cartridges that benefit from crimping (i don't shoot 40 s&w so 'm not sure it needs crimping). Decapping and crimping are two parts that I prefer to do individually, and those are conveniently the first and last steps.


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[markm]

He's got the 3 die set so He'll be able to crimp/straighten the case mouth bell at station 4 and not even worry about it.

[MegademiC]

He's got the 3 die set so He'll be able to crimp/straighten the case mouth bell at station 4 and not even worry about it.

Well, I was going to change to the lee deluxe carbide 4-die set as I can get it for a good price and I see it recommended often. Is there an advantage to the 3-die set? If I don't crimp, what goes into my 4th stage, nothing?

Im looking at a cheap single stage right now (lee) for priming.

Also, how do you use the powder scale? Do you use it to test how much powder is being dropped into the case and to adjust, then just reload? Do you check every so many rounds or is it a one-time use for setup? Im planning on finding a cheap target practice load setup and just using it to pump out rounds for right now to practice. Load development and stuff is going to be a while, so do I need one, or could I just borrow one from someone for setup?

[davidz71]

You mean you are looking at a single stage press for depriming so that the cases can be cleaned before running them through the Dillon right? I'd stay with the Dillon carbide dies if I were you. Yes on the scales in that you have to measure the charge being thrown by the Dillon powder thrower. I may check once every 10 rounds and if it is consistent then I check once every 45-50 rounds. Don't cut corners with the scale. Buy one or take a chance of blowing your gun up and maybe hurting yourself. It is cheap insurance.

[Co-gnARR]

With the scales you can buy test weights in order to calibrate/zero your scale. Keep the weights clean from finger oils by using forceps to place them on the scale, and cover the the scale when not in use. As already mentioned, check the powder throw every few rounds for consistency. Some powders meter well, others not so much.


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[jstone]

With the scales you can buy test weights in order to calibrate/zero your scale. Keep the weights clean from finger oils by using forceps to place them on the scale, and cover the the scale when not in use. As already mentioned, check the powder throw every few rounds for consistency. Some powders meter well, others not so much.


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No scale that is targeted at reloaders will come close to weighing the oil left behind from fingerprints. Even if you get a scale accurate to a thousandth of a grain. Worrying about fingerprints on your check weights is rediculous. The type of scale that will notice the difference is a scale that will cost more than 98% of reloaders could afford. A finger print is roughly 50 micrograms or 0.0077162 grains. I bet there is not one person on this forum using a scale this sensitive. I know of some people using scales that are accurate to around a hundredth of a grain.

The average scale designed for reloading is accurate to a tenth of a grain. Finger prints are of no concern.

[Co-gnARR]

No scale that is targeted at reloaders will come close to weighing the oil left behind from fingerprints. Even if you get a scale accurate to a thousandth of a grain. Worrying about fingerprints on your check weights is rediculous. The type of scale that will notice the difference is a scale that will cost more than 98% of reloaders could afford. A finger print is roughly 50 micrograms or 0.0077162 grains. I bet there is not one person on this forum using a scale this sensitive. I know of some people using scales that are accurate to around a hundredth of a grain.

The average scale designed for reloading is accurate to a tenth of a grain. Finger prints are of no concern.

Jstone, you are correct, no finger print would ever make a lick of difference on the scale. It is however good practice, and since the OP started this thread looking for advice, I felt it pertinent to offer the good practice and technique I learned in a lab setting as an undergrad. Minimizing wear & tear and unnecessary dirt & grime by practicing good technique reflects the habits of the user. If there's any hobby where erring on the side of OCD is ok, I think reloading is it.